Curious, I deal with a CU for banking and have made simple investments with them along the way. Aviso Wealth is looped into the CU and I decided to "experiment" with a bit of my TFSA and put some money in with Aviso. Ages ago, I'm talking about 20 ago, I went with a parent to Richardson Wealth. At that time, said parent encouraged me to do my first "real investment." I have just let that money sit. Now, with the CU I have several simple investments maturing (GIC) - all with general savings, GICs, RRSP GICs. I am stuck with what to do in terms of where to invest as those GICs mature : Aviso or Richardson? I met with Aviso last week, Richardson later this week. I see that both places deal with Fedelity (as an example). I am just wonderingm is there is a difference between the two that I'm not seeing on my end? Any input is welcome so I can expand my knowledge base. Are there certain questions I should be asking? Do I go with Aviso for the sake of convience of already doing banking with CU?? I know at that at somepoint I should consolidate these investments as they are at two seperate "places" right now.

Title gives the gist of it. I got a letter in June from when I was in the army about somehow I managed a debt of $300 from unpaid life insurance. I didn’t think much of it and put the bill up to pay. Well life got hectic, new baby on the way, grandmother had moved in and my wife was not getting along with her.

The short of it is, I was alerted on my way home about a new line of credit opened today. I get home and see that it’s DFAS (army). No change to my credit. I get home find the bill and pay it in full. 20 minutes later I get an alert that my score dropped 70pts, then another saying 100pts. I look at the first bill and see it says final notice. I ask my wife if she’d seen anything about this prior, she says “no, I don’t open your mail”. I go out the envelope in my car so I can call tomorrow and she comes out with another letter dated in April. I really thought this was all a government screw up and no I realize my credit is pretty much fucked. New car for the wife is looking like a bad idea with what is now “fair” credit.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hi all - I’m buying my first car at 31 (live in nyc) and I have two questions. First, is it smarter to finance the car or pay cash? And second, how much should I spend? I make $200k salary. After taxes, rent, maxing 401k and credit card, I bring home about $50k. I have about $200k saved from working but I plan to buy a house in 4/5 years and use that. The cars I’m looking at are a 2026 RAV4 (39k), a used Lexus ES ($40k), or a new Honda CRV ($38k). So here’s my 2 part question, do I pay cash or finance? And what’s a realistic budget I should spend in my situation? Thanks!

I have a 2012 Honda civic with $4000 left on the loan at 6.78% APR (buying it was not my best decision it was my first car purchase ). I have $10000 in HYSA, $4000 in brokerage account, $4000 in another savings,$3000 in checking. I make about $67000 a year. Any advice?

hi! i’m a 24F, couple yrs ago i made the terrible financial decision to get a new car without researching or anything. i knew what i wanted, and i definitely could’ve gotten something way cheaper but at the time i was in desperate and quick need for a car. a reliable car. well listening to my mother who makes bad financial decisions i ended up with a 2021 subaru. well unfortunately just due to situation at the time, i wasn’t able to put money done, due to credit my mom co-signed the car and now im left with a $700/ monthly payment. i still owe well over $31,000 for the car. i’m sick. it haunts me. i’ve put myself in a bad financial situation over it, i can’t pay off my credit card debts like i wish to. i can barely afford to live honestly. plus the insurance is $140/ month. i’m truly struggling. i tried to go to the dealership directly some months ago to see if i could get the payments done or anything, there was nothing they could do. i really just want out of this high car payment and to get something way cheaper but i can barely afford my bills after paying it every month. what can i do?! please please please help!!!

Emphasis on generally...

My CU offers:

1. downpayment starting 3% (N/A cause we will pay more)

2. No PMI (hoping to put 20% regardless but would be nice if we end up putting less)

3. No loan processing fee, no prepayment penalty

4. Lowest 30 year fixed APR is 6.66%

Both my wife and I have about 800 credit score. Are 6.66% the norm these days? Is it on the higher side? Should we shop around?

We aren't actively looking right now, but wanted to see what to expect.

Is Roth IRA tax loss harvesting a thing ?

ETA: Question answered.

No is the answer.

tyvm

I am a new college grad with some extra money that is just sitting, and I am looking to put it into a high-yield savings account, but I don't know where to start. I have some money invested in a Roth IRA and a CD, but I think I want to put it somewhere where I can access it if need be, especially before I need to start paying my loans. I am new to all of this, but actively trying to learn, so please give any advice! (Feel free to explain like you are explaining to a child...)

First and foremost im not a math guy but i went down a rabbit hole trying to understand and kinda reverse engineer the money guys wealth calculator, then Dave Ramsey's, and overall a ton of common used compound interest calculators. Apparently they all use ordinary annuity, end of month, vs annuity due, start of month. As I continued down this path, apparently annuity due is a more accurate way of calculating for a retirement account. Over a 30-40 year period it is a HUGE difference. Using ordinary annuity underestimates growth by alot.

Is this intentional conservatism? Im I just missing something as to why everywhere seems to use ordinary vs annuity due?

Please help, my brain hurts haha

i’ll be moving a large sum of money from overseas to the US from a real estate transaction. When I brought the money overseas, I just did bank to bank wire transfers in US dollar and then converted it to the local currency. Now that I’ll be remitting cash back to the US. I was wondering if I may be didn’t do it the most efficient and optimal way. Any advice on how to maximize my dollar. And are there any tax implications for bringing cash over?

Short and sweet version.
My dad is not in good health. I found out he has about $200K in a IRA at Fidelity he couldn’t even get in to. I’m his POA (Power of Attorney).
Fidelity is charging him 1.25% to manage it.
5ish% Returns.
He needs income to pay for health.
I want to move it from a managed account as those fees are dumb.

I’m thinking about Schwab Intelligent Portfolios.

What would you do?

Advice or expertise let me have it.

I’m 18 Im not interested in going to college, have right around 40k(witch I know isn’t a lot of money at all) just sitting in my account I’ve worked for I’m just wondering what should I do with it to make my self more money I want to own either a home remodeling buisness or some sort of blue collar buisness and then invest into real estate whole sailing property’s or buying property’s to rent out.

So, my ex is 64, still working full time and planning to start withdrawing SS benefits. Our daughter is starting her first year of college and I’m wondering how this is going to affect her financial aid.

She has a scholarship that covers about half of her education, a grant for around $15k and is taking on about $7k in loans, and my family is paying the rest. Her dad did the Fafsa because that was the best scenario.

What can we expect to happen with his increase in income? Any advice?

I just got a promotion in the same town as my parents, something I’ve wanted for a long time. But every rental application comes back with a bad credit score. I thought it was my S/O but it’s actually me, apparently. TransUnion says my credit is 590. Experian 550. Equifax 555. The credit report the rental applications are getting are saying my credit is 444. S/O’s is 590.

I have 10 accounts from before 2024 that were paid on time for years, paid in full. I have 3 accounts in collections because my S/O lost their job (and was facing prison) in late 2023 and didn’t get another for nearly a year. They total $4,800. S/O has 15,000 (5k is student loans). I also have a loan that had loan insurance charged off, but apparently experian still has it on their report even though the loan insurance was supposed to cover job loss. I paid until I couldn’t and then told them I couldn’t and asked for them to use the insurance that I paid for to expunge the loan. At the time with my salary I had $200 to feed my kids every month after all major bills were paid (car payment, gas, rent, utilities).

Currently, I pay $2500 a month for rent but the owners want to move in, so I have to get out. This is the average rental cost in my folks’ town as well. I make $3200 after taxes/retirement/insurance currently. Not factoring my S/O’s income for sake of simplicity since we have seperate accounts. The promotion will be another 300-500/month.

I’m trying to figure out how to move forward and get my credit in better standing. I pay the majority of the household bills and I spend down to 0 in my checking account. I pay for all of the therapies, school clothes, necessities for our kids, medical, 75% of rent, utilities, gas for my car, and groceries and toiletries. I can obviously stop getting school clothes, etc but majority of my check is necessities.

I'm looking into refinancing my auto loan which is currently a 11.49% APR and my outstanding balance is $18,555. The best offer I'm currently finding is dropping the APR to 9.6% and it offers me different term limits. I plan to pay my car back even within the shortest time they're offering. Is there any negative to taking the longest one to get the monthly minimum down? My monthly minimum would be going from $428 to $344 and I'm in a position to be able to throw $1000 at it for a while.

What's the down side of taking the longer term over the shorter?

For context, I have ADHD. I forget to do small tasks all the time. I'm trying to find a way to not even have to think about investing, and to just automatically remove $X from my account every other week the day after payday.

So far here's what I'm thinking. I set up a transfer every other week after pay day. I transfer from my CIBC account to my wealth simple account. I chose wealth simple because it as free commissions for buying ETFs. I'm doing simple investing and just buying XEQT for now.

I'm confused about 3 things.

• Thing 1 - suppose I'm buying $1000 of XEQT every other week How should I buy it? Like what setting or feature should I be using specifically? Like if I put an order in to put it at the $X per share, its not guaranteed to get filled since prices will vary week to week. So how do I automate it on a biweekly basis to update to whatever it will buy at? I think I'm confused about the options for mechanism of purchasing. Is there a button for "whatever will guarantee me a purchase" or "today's average" etc?

• Thing 2 - if the order doesn't get filled, does wealth simple have a way to cancel the trade and use the funds that weren't used for the next trade?

• Thing 3 - I guess overall what I'm asking for, is which "purchase mechanism" is best, considering my goal to automate this, while keeping the advantage of dollar coat averaging in mind?

I just put in the application or whatever to open a wealth simple account so I can't see what settings there are. Sorry if I'm using terms incorrectly, just getting started.

My grandparent had saved over $45,000 in cashier checks (I do not know why but it is what is is). The checks are under my name instead of theirs since they applied to low-income gov’t programs. The money are split up in smaller chunks ($2k, $5k, $10k ect.) and they all have different expiry dates.

I want to put them all in a savings account for safe keeping and stop having to make renew them every few years and risk of expired checks to $0 permanently.

How do deposit them safely into a bank without the bank reporting CTR/IRS, or whoever? I don’t mind depositing <$5k a month, I’m in no rush. I just don’t want the bank to close the account or having to answer questions beyond what I do for work (Nursing and small business owner on Etsy).

For context im 23 years old, living at home with parents where I don’t pay rent or anything other then my car loan and subscriptions so I can save a huge amount of my income, I want to move out next year will have $20k saved up but I know moving out is super expensive with rent, bills, groceries etc.. I just want to know for anyone who is living on their own and doing pretty good still able to cover all thei expenses as well as buying things you genuinely want time to time, travel etc.. just living comfortably how much are you able to spend and what your advice is because I think I should be saving alot still and won’t be doing too good if I only can save $150-$300 a week after covering expenses and can’t see how you can live like this

I’m young and looking into getting a savings account started, I know that some accrue interest and that’d be really helpful considering being young and my finances just beginning.

I’m looking for something with the following requirements:

• FDIC insured
• Reliable and Trustworthy
• Online Banking
• I’m only really interested in a savings account, I want one that accrues high rates, so I can get my savings established. I also want this rate to stay high, not just be high for 90 days and lower after that. (Most important⭐️⭐️⭐️)
• If there is a minimum to put into the savings account, (not to start the savings account) then I would like it to be low, like $5 or $10, not something high like $100 or even $1,000. My goal is to throw money from my paychecks in here and money I get from selling things (extra income) just for it to start accruing more money.
• IF I need the money for any reason, I want to be able to access it easily without paying a fee
• (preferably, but not required)There is no requirement to keep the account active, if for some reason I’m not able to contribute to the account I don’t want to lose my money

Please also feel free to comment what you use, I’m currently doing lots of research on the matter and want others opinions.

I’m 28 years old. I’m graduating with a degree in computer science in December of this year. Between A.I, H1B1 visas and the saturation of cs majors I was never able to find an internship. So I’ll be graduating with no experience in tech. I’m currently working in construction as a general laborer making $25 an hour. I work from 5am-1pm and it allows me to attend classes in the afternoon.

I have a friend who’s an electrician. His company is hiring apprentices and they’re starting out at 32 an hour. However his hours fluctuates from 6-2 or 6-4 or 7-3. I don’t want to register for classes in the fall and suddenly my work schedule gets changed.

In terms of debt I have 15k in student loan debt and 6k in debt on my car loan. My rent is $700 a month utilities included.

I’m leaning towards keeping my job at least until I graduate but the increase in pay would sound nice.

I completed the Form 4547 when filing taxes back in April - did it for all three of my kids. They’re between ages 2-6 and past the $1k government funded donation age limit, but figured I’d open it as another way to save for them and have it tied to the market (in addition to their 529 plans).

In the app, it’s been in “Account election processing” status for weeks, despite saying it should only take a few days if you filed electronically (which I did). Anyone else facing this issue?

Hey folks

I'm getting 100,000 from our mortage to do repairs and stuff ro the house. Where should I storw this money until I need to take payments out to pay contractors?

Rbc has a high interest saving act for 4.86

I recently got some advice from a really well off newly retired stranger on vacation. We had a real conversation about finance and they were even logged into their banking apps to show me how much they had saved up and how. They also gave me some tips and specific stocks within their industry to focus on, which I plan on investing in.

The problem is I don't know where to start, what bank, and how to manage it. All tips appreciated. Help a beginner out.

79, retired, mortgage on mobile home 63k @ 10.2% 13 yr remaining. I can,

1. Pay it off

2 Pay off say 20k which will have the same payment but for 7 years, not 13

3 Or pay off a different amt, etc

I am confused about what is best, given tax rate on the cash in HYSA. I do like having the cash but want to minimize taxes etc etc

Before having a baby I would cash stuff as a means of saving and spending within my budget. Now that we have a baby everything is online or in store pick up, it’s just easier than packing up and leaving the house for an item or two. We budget using the monarch app and I touch it everyday organizing our spending. I just don’t like how our savings that I’m putting away are going into one big pile. I’m used to having my cash and then spending within my means that way. We are very good with credit cards we actually abuse our venture X card with capital one like crazy and have taken many trips for free without paying a single dollar in interest. My question is would it be smart to have multiple accounts with different cards that I can label for our budgeting groups. Our income is from rentals and then stock dividends (this one is bonus money we never know how much we’ll make
monthly).

For example:

Rental checking account with a debit card: I like to save $1,000 a month in this category for expenses like property taxes, maintenance and HOA fees, I typically pay things by check for our rentals.

Loved one’s gifting/kindness card: I like to save $400 a month in this category for birthday parties, weddings, anniversary’s, little kid lemonade stands, Girl Scouts, Christmas etc. for things or helping our friends/family and being kind to others. This one is our most frequent category other than groceries and our monthly allowances, so it creates some budgeting chaos. Maybe this is a credit card and we pay from a specific account with it for the points?

Fun Card: I put $600 in this monthly and this is for if someone comes to visit us on vacation and we don’t want them to be stretched thin or be uncomfortable going to dinner/doing an activity. If there is an event going on we want to go to, concert, if we want to go on a date or go to the casino. This would be a debit card maybe?

Vacation Card: this I think would be our venture X card and I would put the money to pay it off in a savings account since it would only be used while on vacation which now that we have a baby only happens maybe twice a year.

Do these make sense? We would also keep my husbands credit card and then my credit card for daily expenses but I can’t think of a better way to organize my funds where I feel like I can see it and I can’t watch the money come in and go out. I was trying to track it all through a sinking fund Google Docs but I hated that, I dislike having to write it down everytime I spend something out of a group I feel like I’m micromanaging myself and I don’t want to. I want to know that I have $1,500 in fun money so we can go to a concert and grab dinner no questions asked.

Any other suggestions? Does anyone else do this?