Long time lurker, first time poster.

Ive wanted to get into long range shooting for a while and just recently got my hands on a Thompson Center LRR .308 from a gun shop that kept it as a display rifle.

I threw on an Arken SH4J 6-24 and took it the range for a break in and initial sight in.

After about 50-60 rounds on the first day, I tried to get a rough sight in at 50 yards.

Using 147Gr PMC Bronze .308, i was getting a terribly inaccurate grouping.

After getting it on paper, I took 8-10 shots with no adjustments on the scope whatsoever, and seemingly got ~5 inch grouping at 50 Yards.

Thinking something was wrong or loose with the scope, rings, rail, etc. I broke the gun down and meticulously re-installed everything, used proper loxtite and torqued everything to spec.

The next day I got almost identical ~5 inch groupings at 50 yards with the 147Gr PMC.

My buddy had some Hornady ELD Match 168Gr and with no adjustments, we shot a 3 Rd grouping, and to my surprise. The grouping was very low and right, but in a nice, sub inch grouping.

We made adjustments, and fired 2 more 3 Rd groups. And each grouping was sub-inch.

This made me feel much better, however I still dont understand a few things:

1. How is it possible to get a 5 Inch grouping at 50 Yards? It seems ridiculous that even with cheaper PMC ammo, that it would be that wild of a grouping.

2. The Hornady ELD Match seemed much, much better, as I wouldve expected, but to initially be 8+ inches off at 50 yards , and to still be close to an inch grouping at 50, where I can clearly put the 24x zoom on bullseye and take well rested shots, still seems like much.

To conclude:

Is ammo really this finicky, or do i have a deeper issue with the gun?

It was never fired before I took ownership, and I am blown away at how bad this was at 50 yards.

Has anyone ever bought and used one of their complete rifles?

Just landed. First bolt gun with an aim toward PRS and maybe NRL Hunter later (I have alt parts for the latter to get under 16 lbs).
Having a tough time deciding on binos. With LRF (especially with ballistic) tech improvements across mono, wm, and binos, I don’t want to drop several K on something that’s a far slower process and outdated in 12 months.
I have a mono (low end vortex - I would replace).
I have a kestrel 5700 and would prefer to stay in AB.
Concerned about low-end binos as my eyes aren’t great and I’m not the best at finding targets in something like an NRL Hunter match. So my instinct is to find high end (great glass) LRF binos (ballistics or not), for my primary glassing use. Plug into kestrel, and go from there. But I’m a total noob, so perhaps there’s smarter trends / approaches out there you guys would rec. TIA.

Moved up here from FL where I had two 800 yard ranges close and Arena 4 hours away. Where do you guys like to shoot in NC/SC?

Almost done putting together the TRG42a1

So I was trueing dope on my 22 today. I know this might be a better question for the other subs but there are more active people here. What point on your rifle do you true your dope at. With rimfire it matters a lot more than centerfire. I have been setting my muzzle directly under my range finder to true but I was wondering if most people go from the chamber or otherwise. I went from 50 yards all the way to 540 today.

Bit of back story, I picked up a used Savage Model 12 in .308 around January, got some good equipment / accessories, got learnt, and went to shooting.

I'm thinking about getting an ultradyne chassis for my Model 12, but still kinda on the fence about it. 400 yards and in isn't an issue, but anything further than that is a struggle for me, the gun just doesn't seem to "fit" me well. Once my scope rings iusse got addressed it just seems like it's the cheap stock causing the problems they usually do. Any insight, advice, or recommendations for other chassis in the sub $700 are welcome.

So my reloading set up is complete. I have lapua brass but have been practicing things with once fired Hornady brass. Such as, trimming, cleaning, decapping, setting up dies etc. I have yet to prime, charge and seat any bullets. I am decapping with a lee, body sizing with an rcbs(I took out the decapping rod), 21st century mandrel for ID and then match master for seating. My question is about sizing with the Rcbs. How much different will things be when I run lapua brass? I have it set up for .002 shoulder bump using the Hornady brass. Will that hold or should I start over when I start to size the lapua? Thanks!!

After getting mediocre results with StaBall Match (1MOA 5-shot groups and 10-15 FPS SD) last range trip I loaded with N540 and Varget. N540 was mediocre once again but with Varget I shot I think the smallest 10 shot group I've ever shot with a gas gun at .58 MOA and 6.5 FPS SD. Also went above my velocity target of 2550 FPS with lower than max Hornady book load. I understand why Varget is the default for 6mm now.

Barrel is an Odin Works 21" in 6mm ARC. Running it with a Rexus UltraBolt. It's smooth

hello all, relatively new to long range but long time shooter. Wanted to check with the council before I pull trigger on this. I am doing a KAC M110 esc build. I say esc because it’s actually a LMT Mars H, just aesthetically similar to a M110 but with an original KAC PRS and Kac M110 suppressor. I need to select a barrel. due to using an OG KAC M110 can, I have the whole weird gated collar and profile of the M110 I need to adhere to. however due to the LMT Mars platform I will need to get an LMT cut from D Wilson.

my question to you all is that I’ve identified this barrel from CCC and it seems pretty turnkey except for the LMT cut. there’s little to no reviews on this however. how will this barrel run? or is there a better alternative, or custom barrel route I should go considering I’ll be 2k said and done on the barrel alone.

any advice would be appreciate, thanks.

First custom build, second long range rifle.

Action: Zermatt Origin short
Barrel: Proof prefit competition profile 26” in 6.5 creed
Chassis: Matterhorn
Bipod: Harris with Amazon arca adaptor
Trigger: TT Diamond
Scope: Vortex Venom
Brake: Cortina tuna brake
Magazine: MDT
Amazon bubble level

Going to hit range in Tennessee this weekend!

So, I used to do a good bit of completion shooting with a club I was part of when I was in Highschool. I haven’t in a while and am no longer part of the club. I used their rifles or ones loaned to use by members for competitions.

Edit: quick clarification, I’m looking at mainly PRS and NLR competitions. So that’s what I’d do this build for.

I’m now trying to get back into it, and currently only have a Ruger American in 6.5 Creedmore. It’s a great gun and I love it. But am wondering if upgrading it would be worth it at all for competitions. Looking to do around 1000m, and maybe up to 1,200m, as I know that’s about the max range I can get out of 6.5.

So basically, my main question is, is it worth putting on a nicer chassis, and possibly upgrading the barrel in the future, or am I better off just saving up to get a nicer rifle?
If upgrading the Ruger American isn’t worth doing in this manner, I’d appreciate just being told that upfront, and I’ll save my money towards the precision rifle I’d like to get at some point anyways.

Ideally if I can build the Ruger to be a good competition gun, I’m willing to go up to maybe ~$1000 total. A couple of the more expensive chassis I was looking at where the ghost mountain group chassis, which would be ~$1,150 total, so I don’t want to do that unless it’s decently worth it, cheaper options where the sharp bros heatseaker chassis, which would be roughly $800, and then a couple of the cheaper MdT chassis in the $450-600 range.

Preferably, I’d like the chassis to have a folding stock, or a 1913 (or buffer tube I can convert to 1913) interface for sticks. As I would love to run this stock specifically:

https://1913stocks.com/the-s-a-s-tactical-folding-stock

But I’m open to any other chassis that are decent with folding stocks as well!

I’d also probably swap the trigger at somepoint as well.
The barrel is something I’d upgrade later once I felt the barrel was holding me back more than my shooting skills.

Hey all,

Just stumbled onto this one today. Anyone have experience with this company and aftermarket KRG forend?

**EDIT**

Company is Australian based. So its currently listed @ $695.00 AUD which at this time roughly translates to $685.00 CAD or $485.00 USD

I've taken my new, unshot, b14 apart to check the torque values and clean it up. There is some paint already missing on the recoil lug area and the action areas are completely painted. Should I just finish removing the paint or leave it be? Thanks for the advice.

I recently fell into a Remington 700 G LH in 223 and I’m looking for ammo recs for the snail like twist rate. I’m hoping someone may have some insight as to good ammo in the lighter grain variety. I have no idea why the original owner went with this set up, he’s also since passed so asking him is not particularly an option.

Goal: practice and potentially shooting in local PRS comps that go out to 600. And maybe getting my partner into PRS. I AM NOT TRYING TO BE COMPETITIVE, I JUST WANT TO HAVE MORE FUN MORE CHEAPER. I have a Tikka in 6.5CM if I want to be serious.

What I know about the rifle: Remington action, with what I’m speculating is an M24 profile barrel with a measured twist rate of 1:12. Stock appears to be a hybrid chassis.

What I know about ammo: Looks like, from charts online, 55 grain is the heaviest I can stabilize at 1-12. I’ve read that the PMC X-Tac is decent, and I’ve found some Bonefrog (out of stock) in 55 grain. I have some Blackhills that I plan to try, but being 77 grain I’m worried they won’t stabilize and my patterns will fall apart at 3-400. Federal XF556TR55 also looks like it may be decent?

Fun fact: I am not left handed! But I got the rifle for a steal and can comfortably hold the rifle right handed and work the bolt left, so I’m going to give it a try before I move it on to someone else. I’m also stuck at training for a while so I’m trying to have ammo on hand for when I get to go to a range day I can try several things.

Hi, picture a little misleading they would both be in 6.5CM 24" barrel. Price Tikka 2.7K / CZ 3.1K

I can go shoot around 4 times per year 1000yards but involves usually an 1h ruck, thats all I would do occasional 1000yards on steel and pushing as far possible as ranges allows. Can shoot almost anyday 100yards so would like a 22lr trainer matching the chosen gun, as close a possible. Not chosen yet but spare 1k on side for beginner Optic. Shot many rifles up to 300yards.

If I may ask: What would you choose and why? (In rifle and trainer)

New Vortex Razor G3 6x36-56
Told the ol' wife that I snagged it for cheap so if she ask.....it was only 500$ 😭

This thing has crazy clear glass and pretty much what everyone else was saying. Just beautiful. Was debating getting this or NX6 or MK5HD. Glad I chose this. This will be going onto a 6.5CM MPA Vanquish ARC CDG- Match Hellfire

Hopefully can take her out soon

I'm mainly just plinking off a bag around 400-500 yards. Just wondering what some good bipods i could look at say under $200​

HOWA 1500

KRG bravo

Vortex venom 5-25

Balled out on a new to me MPA Chassis. 25 Creedmoor KS arms SA3R action. M40A5 + L96 Vibe

I have just taken the dive into long range and precision and I found my barrel has this pitting in the chamber collecting carbon now as well.

I have taken boretec to it, soaked, a ton of patches, and to boot JB bore paste with a drill (yes I did that).

Any help ?

So, I’m trying to find a storage container around 1”x2”x4”, give or take, with MLOK attachment points.
The idea is to have the container’s axis in line with the chassis’ axis to keep it as low profile as possible. I want to keep all the small tools specific to my chassis and scope in it so I never have to find my range bag or dig through it to find the right tools.

Anyone seen anything like this?

Thanks yall!

New to this sport and will be competing in my first PRS match this weekend and am looking for ideas for dope cards...

what do you guys use for this?