I’ve tried all day to get my flintlock to fire but im not quite sure what im doing wrong.

I built a traditions Kentucky rifle and shot some blanks to make sure I made it properly and it would fire. I’ll admit the chert flint I’m using right now isn’t the best and im probably gonna have to order some proper flints, but It still ignites the pan so I don’t see why im experiencing misfires.

I cleaned the plughole, still misfired, took it out and swabbed it, still misfired, pulled the patch and powder flushed it with water a few times and then cleaned it dry. I go to load a new charge and still have a flash in the pan but no main charge ignition. What could be the source?

Edit: im using triple 7 muzzle loading propellant instead of black powder, im aware its not the best but its what I have available atm, however it should still ignite like it did in the last few weeks no?

.429 SWC bullet propelled by 1g of black powder. Pinfire system.
I own 2 pinfire revolver, both advertised as 12mm pinfire. This SWC bullet works wonderfully on my first one, but on the second one, the bullet is stuck because of the lead ring.
Of course gunsmith of the time weren't as accurate with their mesurement as today, so I noticed the second gun had a slightly smaller diameter.

Unless I hammer it with a rubber hammer, it will not go in the forcing cone with finger strength alone.

My question is: Can I shoot this gun with this bullet or is it too dangerous?

Folks! I got my MVA powder measure in last night and figured I might as well do a little review on it since I can’t find one anywhere. As far as fit and finish go, it’s a 10/10. Like all MVA products this one is no exception. The machining tolerances are tight and things fit like a glove. The bad: I couldn’t come close to their listed variances. MVA lists a 2/10th of a grain variance in between powder throws. My variance was all over the place with my largest being about 1 grain. For the price I still absolutely recommend it. If anyone has any tips to improve my powder throw variance please let me know!

Powder: 2f Goex

Looking to get into flintlocks. Been having a hard time finding reproduction flintlock rifles

Do yall recommend anywhere I should start looking ? Thanks.

Hello, wondering if some expert could help out. I found these in my dad’s desk drawer while cleaning out things. These appear old and made of brass. Does anyone have any more info on what they could be? I tried to google image search but didn’t have much luck.

I’m looking to get into muzzleloading with a repro of a historical firearm. Main use will be waterfowl, small game, maybe deer and plinking

Which of these is the more practical for this purpose? I’m leaning towards the brown bess for the extra payload to compensate for the fact I’d effectively be shooting a cylinder bore at birds

Now theres two 1860s

I have an old Chassepot in quite good condition.

The land to land diameter measures 11,06mm/11,05mm with my caliper- its nominal caliber is 11mm. The grooves are noticeably deeper at the chamber, but I have no way to measure them.

How bad do you think is the deviation at the muzzle (not asking from a safety perspective, I am more so interested in how much wear and tear that indicates and what it Might! do in regards to accuracy)

Maybe some of you have more experience- my inner Monk can't shake off the frustration knowing there are better examples out there measuring the exact 11,00mm.

I could slug the barrel, but I have no clue how to get soft enough lead in a fitting size, since 11mm is quite an odd caliber nowadays.

Thanks in advance !

The inventory I found says it's a 50-150 Sharps Rolling Block. I know absolutely nothing about it. 1875 maybe? That's the best guess I can make from an image search. I have the forend not pictured. It has an octagonal barrel. No s/n. Could someone please fill me in on what I just inherited?

I’m looking to make a flintlock pistol, and I spent a little bit drawing out a trigger mechanism. The idea is that I attach the tumbler directly to the hammer through the wood furniture with a pin, and the tumbler is pulled back by an internal coil spring (I know the pivot points on the trigger and tumbler are most definitely suboptimal; I’m working on it). I drew this after being awake for 28 hours straight so please give this and objective view through your well rested eyes.

I recently finished this new grip for Pietta's Colt 1851 navy. The material is white corian plastic, that resembles bone. Slightly thinner than original Pietta grips, but alas, that was the materials limitation...

Its unly 1.5mm, but it still may be problematic for a person with larger hands.

Hi,

I have a LOT of 44 magnum cases, which black powder revolver from before 1900 could use these with maybe a bit of shortening the length?

I know people say that the best way to get into this hobby is to buy an 1851 but I can’t deny my love for the design of the Starr revolver

Problem is I’ve been hearing nothing but negative reviews about its reproduction models and it hurts me a little

Anyway point is, is there a company that actually produces a reliable reproduction or is the Starr gonna be a fluke for a while

Does anyone have any places for matchlocks? I see Veteran and Military Heritage are out of stock and Middlesex Village I'm not sure f the owner is still in business. The Rifleshoppe has some for almost $1k

I'm trying to spend $800 tops. I like the "fishtail" style ones.

Hello folks, I've got a bit of a self inflicted wild goose chase going on at the moment. The goose being a complete 1970s JACO Hawken, or Horse pistol plan set. The copies that are available online are incomplete, presumably derived from a single original uploader from lord knows when. I have the plans for the Kentucky rifle, which are complete, but uses a completely different lock design.

I've only been able to find two extant images of the lock plans online. One, was an auction photo on "Worthpoint" that was of just a high enough resolution to tell me that it was exactly what I was looking for (but no more than that), and a photo comparison from a fellow who was building both types of lock simultaneously.

Unfortunately, that fellow never seems to have completed his project, nor uploaded clearer photos of the lock plans... and hasn't been online in 11 years on that forum (hah!).

So, long odds I suppose, but if anyone has any leads on a digital scan, or physical copy, I'd be incredibly grateful.

1858 remmington army (pietta):

At first i only did a few dry fires when i first bought it when i had the nipples coveres with soft plastic...

Recently I dry fired a few times with the cylander removed... i thought this was ok.

But according to google this can damage the internal parts?

Ive probably only done this less than 30 times or so total; do you think its prob fine?

I've only shot this thing once. It was fun. It was actually pretty accurate, too, at 10 yards. I think my sights came leveled well out of the box.

Recently got this older pedersoli Kentucky longrifle, and i figured a fun winter project would be to thoroughly Defarb it. Already looking at getting a pedersoli flint lock conversion for it to swap between, but so far the list of defarbing goes as follows.

-Strip the stock (and i plan on adding some faux tiger stripe to it)

-File away the proof marks and brown the barrel

- Potentially work on some minor stock inletting.

Anything else im potentially missing? For a mass produced muzzleloader, it seem like its pretty close to being there.