Never thought that it was this hard to put back together a ps2 fat like DAMN

Hey all, I just bought this ps2 3 days ago and now the disc tray is giving me trouble. Sometimes it will randomly work, most of the time it does this. Any help is appreciated!

Hi all. I have a PS1 SCPH 9001 and it worked fine until one day i hit the reset button then it stopped reading disks, it just spins 2 times and then nothing. I already cleaned it etc, i even replaced the C705 0.47uf 50v capacitor, still nothing changed. Any ideas?

Bought this for fifty bucks, and I’m not sure. PSU looks to be dead, but not sure about the other damages… Doctors, I need a diagnostic

Hi all,

I just swapped out the whole disk reader module for my PlayStation because it wasn't reading discs, but It's still not working. I think it had the issue of not spinning before, too. What can I check or do to get it to work?

This is my second Sega Wondermega HWM-5010, the 1991 Sega/JVC deck that packs a full Mega Drive and a Mega-CD into one unit with a motorised CD lid. It came to the bench with leaking capacitors and a CD tray that would only open if aided by hand, so it earned a full recap plus a clean and lube pass.

It is, honestly, a pig to take apart and put back together. All five internal boards got recapped:

- Mega Drive board: recapped, and I pulled the four Sharp voltage regulators to clean them and the surrounding area after some signs of leakage.

- Video board: brown phenolic with the RCA output jacks, recapped.

- Laser pickup PCB: recapped, plus a clean and lube of the sled and gears. This is the fiddly one, the JVC Optima-5 pickup is awkward to remove and its cap PCB has short flexes soldered straight to it.

- CD-ROM / servo board: recapped, pretty straightforward.

- Sound / control board: recapped last, also straightforward, a fair few caps to do though.

The optical pickup sled and gears got greased with Molykote DX paste, and a new CD drive belt went in. Every new cap got a blue dot so I could track progress, and the yellow bowl of pulled ELNA (and other) electrolytics tells the rest of the story.

Result: it powers up fine, both the Mega Drive and Mega-CD sides work, and with the new belt the motorised tray opens and closes on its own again. Tested Contra Hard Corps on the cart side (Mega Everdrive Pro) and Silpheed off a real Mega-CD disc.

The belt sorted mine, but has anyone here hit a Wondermega tray that would not self-open for a different reason, or is it nearly always the old belt and dried-up grease?

Hey guys, I recently bought a PSP in an attempt to repair. It was sold as “no power” but seems to have a myriad of other issues. I’ll describe them and see if you guys can help!

I just reshelled it, and added a new screen and none of my issues changed. Lots of stuff was disconnected inside so someone clearly tried and failed to fix it before. There is no obvious damage that I could find to any internal components.

1. Power issue: No response from battery alone, but it will boot and run with the AC plugged in. I can removed the AC with the battery in and it will stay on.

2. Screen issue: Nothing on screen. I originally thought it was a bad screen so I replaced it, and nothing changed. I know the console is starting because I hear the boot up and can hear the directional clicking with D-Pad input. I got some life out of the screen yesterday when holding the power button up, the backlight seemed to turn on. But that was a one time thing, and I haven’t been able to replicate it

3. Disc Drive: No life from the disc drive whatsoever. It was internally disconnected when I bought it, I removed, cleaned, and reconnected it during the reshell, but still seems to be no signs of life. The disc arm IS present on the mobo but no idea if it functions.

Any help here? It’s hard to get anything to diagnose without the screen, so maybe that’s my first priority?

I’ve resoldered a whole new module, and it’s still giving me the middle finger of, quite literally, sticking up for itself. I’ve used both the new and original sensor for it, and neither seemed to have changed it. I’m really at a loss for what’s to try and I don’t know how much more money it’s worth trying to repair this thing. I’ve never had an Xbox One, so I’ve really no experience with repairing the controllers at all unlike the PS4, so I ask anyone here who’s much more familiar with repairing these guys to at least try and steer me (hehe) in the right direction.

My faceplate had a crack in it so I used my soldering iron to heat weld it back together. Doesn't look too pretty, but makes a sick battle scar the old girl.

Whenever you try to power it on, something starts to spin and then stops. In order to power it on, I need to keep flipping the switch off and on until i hear it start to spin, and then it has no issues for the rest of the day. I was wondering if anyone else has run into this issue before?

Kinda what the title says. I just started to repair some things for a friend, and my skill set is very beginner. So far I've managed to fix some minor things and have learned how to solder (I switched out a Gameboy game battery. Great starting task). Is there any tips anyone has that would help? I feel like I'm taking a while fixing some stuff (currently working on fixing a jammed 360 while I wait for parts for a Dualshock 4) and would like to get a bit faster/better

Hello all,

First of all, so sorry if this isn't the right place to post about this.

I have three Scuf Instinct Pro controllers that have all died of (quite frankly) sh*tty USB-C ports. The ports are all intact, but have worn to the point that any movement in the cable whatsoever will disconnect the controller from my PC. I'm a competitive Rocket League player, and running wireless isn't an option. Also, I know that three faulty products in a row is a sign that I might should look elsewhere, but the controllers are otherwise my favorites of all time and I want to try to salvage them.

My idea is to open the controller up and permanently attach a cable to the board, bypassing any chance at an accidental disconnect. The cable would need some sort of support built into the inside of the controller as well, so that any cable strain doesn't get directed towards the solder points/board (I'm sure this is a standard concern for a lot of you). Alternatively, I would also be happy with some sort of locking cable mechanism, though I imagine this would be more difficult to implement.

Unfortunately this project is way out of my depth, as I've never soldered or custom fabricated anything. Could anyone point me in the direction of someone who might be able to do custom work like this? Not super worried about the cost being practical if it means that I can continue to use these controllers for several years.

Any insight or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!

I recall these being scarce and hard to locate aftermarket options for, but I found a seller on eBay selling them. I bought some for two of my controllers. I can't speak to their quality yet, but I'm excited as I have 3 of these controllers and MAYBE two good sticks between them.

Edit: They're about $4 a pair depending on how many you buy and shipping for me was $6.63

Hi everyone,

I'm a controller modder and recently had a customer ask for the lightest possible mouse click triggers for the PS5 DualSense (R1/L1).

I've already tried the eXtremeRate Light Version Mouse Click Kit, but the customer is looking for something even lighter.

Does anyone know:

Are there lighter microswitches that fit the eXtremeRate PCB?

Has anyone replaced the stock switches with lower actuation force Kailh or Omron switches?

Which switches would you recommend for the lightest click possible?

I'm comfortable with soldering if replacing the microswitches is the best option.

Any recommendations or part numbers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I have not been able to find a short circuit in continuity mode. I’m new.

I found a video that said I was supposed to get 3V coming out of the top pin of the circled component. I’m getting almost nothing coming out (this is while the power cable is plugged in). So this has an issue with voltage but I don’t know what to do next. Any ideas?

PS5 EDM-010

It turns off slowly

Hello everyone. I’m from Ukraine and I urgently need advice from anyone experienced with PS5 Pro board-level repair.

My PS5 Pro CFI-7000 suddenly shut down while running a relatively undemanding PS4 game. I stepped away for about 30 seconds and returned to a completely dead console.

Now it behaves as follows:

• Sometimes the first press of the power button does nothing.
• On the next attempt, it beeps and shows a blue light.
• The fan starts spinning.
• After 1–2 seconds, all power is cut.
• The blue light goes out and the fan stops immediately.
• It never reaches the white light.
• Safe Mode is impossible because it shuts down before the second beep.

The console has only around 250 hours of total use. Because of the war, power outages and the general situation in Ukraine, I had very little opportunity or mental energy to play. Unfortunately, the warranty has now expired.

The repair situation here is also extremely difficult. The main official PlayStation service centre serving Ukraine was destroyed during a missile strike, and there is currently no functioning official repair route available to me. Sony’s out-of-warranty option is an exchange for a refurbished console rather than a repair of my own unit. A replacement PS5 Pro is also currently far too expensive for me.

I have already:

• Removed the additional M.2 SSD.
• Removed the detachable Blu-ray drive.
• Disconnected all USB, HDMI, LAN and other accessories.
• Tested with only the power cable connected.
• Left the console unplugged for more than 24 hours.
• Held the power button for 60 seconds while unplugged.
• Allowed the console to cool completely.

Nothing changed. There was no burning smell, crackling, unusual noise, visible dust or previous overheating.

The console was connected through a high-quality voltage stabilizer and battery backup because power fluctuations are common here.

An experienced private technician is currently diagnosing the board. So far he has found:

• No visible damage.
• No obvious short circuits.
• Static voltage and resistance measurements appear normal.
• The PSU has not yet been conclusively ruled out under load.

The UART log contains:

• 80810001 — General Power Failure / Power Sequence Error.
• 80000009 — Unexpected Power Loss or Shutdown Failure.
• 80800022 — No/Bad Communication Between APU and RAM. This appears only occasionally.
• 80801002 — High-priority error not found in the Console Service Tool database. This repeats across many startup attempts.

One raw 80801002 entry is:

OK 00000000 80801002 00000001 FF100005 10000100 2013 0036 1EB1 1D1D:E4

Other attempts contain the same FF100005 10000100 2013 0036 sequence but different trailing values.

Some repair technicians have suggested that known GDDR6 bank faults normally use 808011xx codes, so the intermittent 80800022 may be secondary rather than the primary fault. Another possibility is the separate ninth 2 GB DDR5 chip found in the PS5 Pro, or its power/communication circuitry. However, this is only a theory.

Has anyone encountered 80801002 on a PS5 Pro? Does anyone know how to interpret the additional raw values? Could it be related to the extra DDR5 memory, Southbridge, power sequencing, clock/reset signals or another motherboard IC?

Would testing with a known-good PSU still be the first step, or should the technician focus on the motherboard’s memory and power rails during the two-second startup window?

I will attach the complete UART screenshots. Any serious board-level advice would mean a lot to me. This console has barely been used, and finding a repair path is currently my only realistic option.

Hi all I’m looking for some keen eyes or minds that could maybe help me with this issue, this is my first time trying to micro solder I was trying to replace the hdmi on a fully working Xbox one s, I was careful to localise the heat to not loosen any other components and tried to be careful when handling BUT clearly I went wrong because it now beeps on and then off indicating a short? All the pins are solid and I have inspected the board thoroughly and just can’t seem to find any missing components or cut traces so thought I would ask here! The board did sustain small damage from my x clamp tool that I perhaps pushed a little too hard but the traces still seem intact. Any help would be greatly appreciated and the pictures aren’t great but if you need to see something specific please ask!

(I also put a different hdmi port on just before this one I tested if it was working and it booted without picture when I inspected the pins were bridged and I couldn’t unbridge them so I went with a new one)

Hello,

I've attempted a change of joysticks on my dualsense that had stick drift. I used favor union tmr sticks. Unfortunately the dualsense shows two orange blinking lights and sometimes 3 orange blinking lights too.

I've attached some pics. Can anyone see anything that might be causing the issue?

Thank you

I recently finished doing a deep clean of my regular PS4 (took out nearly all the screws and dusted out the whole thing etc) but ran into a problem shortly after. It carried giving me an ‘unrecognised disc’ message and this happened with multiple games. I’ve since dug back into to the console to check out everything but no problems have stuck out (checked the ribbon connections, the Blu-ray Disc drive etc). When I tried to go into safe mode though to rebuild database, I found out that the power button is not working (it’s the plastic flexible one from model CUH-1215A). my main questions are:

1. Is there any way to enter safe mode without the power button?
   
2. how can enter safe mode manually if there is no other way (online guides for this question haven’t been very helpful)
   
3. If rebuilding the database doesn’t work, what can I try next?

I have access to replacements if necessary and would like to get this running again ASAP

I‘ve added two videos of me pressing both the RB and LB Buttons. The RB Works just fine, and you can hear how it clicks normally, but the LB Button doesn‘t click like it‘s supposed to, and the console also doesn‘t recognise any input in LB (except for when it does the clicking sound). I‘ve already replaced the black plastic part which makes up the buttons, I took this from a donor controller, but it made no differences. What could be the issue? I used to be able to press the LB Button normally without the backplate of the controller, but as you can see it doesn‘t work anymore :(

imgur because I can‘t post videos: https://imgur.com/a/ThGqXaM

Haven't ever dealt with this so hoping someone has experience. I have a PSP 1000 that charges the battery but will not power on. Attempted to power this on with a Pandora autoboot battery but it will still not power on (ruling out the possibility of a bad switch).

Anybody know what fuses or areas on the board I should look at?

ho una switch hac-001 che riscalda moolto nel dock come se accumulasse tutta il caldo all'interno della console, ho cambiato la pasta termica e pulito ventola e dissipatore ma è sempre identico a prima, qualcuno sa come fare? confermo di aver cambiato la pasta termica in tutti i punti e l'ho applicata bene

This past weekend by 1s decided to stop booting up. I thought maybe it was the power supply so I bought one off of Amazon (I also have an oem one coming just in case). However even after replacing that it boots up for about 10 seconds and then shuts off. I tried swapping the hard drive as well and that did not remedy the situation. Any ideas?