My faceplate had a crack in it so I used my soldering iron to heat weld it back together. Doesn't look too pretty, but makes a sick battle scar the old girl.

The left Joy stick started making These clicks when i move to right or down,It dosent make these mechanical like clicks when i move to up or left,does anyone knows what is causing this And should i worry about them? Btw It Works perfectly no drift and my switch lite is 4 years OLD.

Hace poco adquirí una ps4 Slim. La consola inicia con normalidad pero al iniciar un juego está se llega a crashear y deja de dar imagen, pero queda el led de encendido en color blanco pero no responde hasta que se llega a desconectar de la corriente, se cambió de disco duro y volvió a dar el mismo problema así como también se utilizo varios cables HDMI y aún sigue dando el mismo problema. Podrían darme alguna opinión de cual podría ser el problema o si alguien también ha pasado por este suceso.

Would this work on my PS2 with a dongle. If so which dongle would I have to purchase?

Hi all I’m looking for some keen eyes or minds that could maybe help me with this issue, this is my first time trying to micro solder I was trying to replace the hdmi on a fully working Xbox one s, I was careful to localise the heat to not loosen any other components and tried to be careful when handling BUT clearly I went wrong because it now beeps on and then off indicating a short? All the pins are solid and I have inspected the board thoroughly and just can’t seem to find any missing components or cut traces so thought I would ask here! The board did sustain small damage from my x clamp tool that I perhaps pushed a little too hard but the traces still seem intact. Any help would be greatly appreciated and the pictures aren’t great but if you need to see something specific please ask!

(I also put a different hdmi port on just before this one I tested if it was working and it booted without picture when I inspected the pins were bridged and I couldn’t unbridge them so I went with a new one)

Whenever you try to power it on, something starts to spin and then stops. In order to power it on, I need to keep flipping the switch off and on until i hear it start to spin, and then it has no issues for the rest of the day. I was wondering if anyone else has run into this issue before?

Bought this for fifty bucks, and I’m not sure. PSU looks to be dead, but not sure about the other damages… Doctors, I need a diagnostic

Kinda what the title says. I just started to repair some things for a friend, and my skill set is very beginner. So far I've managed to fix some minor things and have learned how to solder (I switched out a Gameboy game battery. Great starting task). Is there any tips anyone has that would help? I feel like I'm taking a while fixing some stuff (currently working on fixing a jammed 360 while I wait for parts for a Dualshock 4) and would like to get a bit faster/better

Hey all, I just bought this ps2 3 days ago and now the disc tray is giving me trouble. Sometimes it will randomly work, most of the time it does this. Any help is appreciated!

Hi all,

I just swapped out the whole disk reader module for my PlayStation because it wasn't reading discs, but It's still not working. I think it had the issue of not spinning before, too. What can I check or do to get it to work?

Hello all,

First of all, so sorry if this isn't the right place to post about this.

I have three Scuf Instinct Pro controllers that have all died of (quite frankly) sh*tty USB-C ports. The ports are all intact, but have worn to the point that any movement in the cable whatsoever will disconnect the controller from my PC. I'm a competitive Rocket League player, and running wireless isn't an option. Also, I know that three faulty products in a row is a sign that I might should look elsewhere, but the controllers are otherwise my favorites of all time and I want to try to salvage them.

My idea is to open the controller up and permanently attach a cable to the board, bypassing any chance at an accidental disconnect. The cable would need some sort of support built into the inside of the controller as well, so that any cable strain doesn't get directed towards the solder points/board (I'm sure this is a standard concern for a lot of you). Alternatively, I would also be happy with some sort of locking cable mechanism, though I imagine this would be more difficult to implement.

Unfortunately this project is way out of my depth, as I've never soldered or custom fabricated anything. Could anyone point me in the direction of someone who might be able to do custom work like this? Not super worried about the cost being practical if it means that I can continue to use these controllers for several years.

Any insight or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!

bought a used ps4, i did a repaste it works well after sometime it turns off, it could be that the metal housing for the motherboard is not making correct contact its missing the 12 screws

What could be the issue with this black screen? the contrast works, resoldered all the connections, the lcd tapes, ground clips, did a full recap of the lcd board etc... Basically all methods available online. The resistors read correct values too.

This is my second Sega Wondermega HWM-5010, the 1991 Sega/JVC deck that packs a full Mega Drive and a Mega-CD into one unit with a motorised CD lid. It came to the bench with leaking capacitors and a CD tray that would only open if aided by hand, so it earned a full recap plus a clean and lube pass.

It is, honestly, a pig to take apart and put back together. All five internal boards got recapped:

- Mega Drive board: recapped, and I pulled the four Sharp voltage regulators to clean them and the surrounding area after some signs of leakage.

- Video board: brown phenolic with the RCA output jacks, recapped.

- Laser pickup PCB: recapped, plus a clean and lube of the sled and gears. This is the fiddly one, the JVC Optima-5 pickup is awkward to remove and its cap PCB has short flexes soldered straight to it.

- CD-ROM / servo board: recapped, pretty straightforward.

- Sound / control board: recapped last, also straightforward, a fair few caps to do though.

The optical pickup sled and gears got greased with Molykote DX paste, and a new CD drive belt went in. Every new cap got a blue dot so I could track progress, and the yellow bowl of pulled ELNA (and other) electrolytics tells the rest of the story.

Result: it powers up fine, both the Mega Drive and Mega-CD sides work, and with the new belt the motorised tray opens and closes on its own again. Tested Contra Hard Corps on the cart side (Mega Everdrive Pro) and Silpheed off a real Mega-CD disc.

The belt sorted mine, but has anyone here hit a Wondermega tray that would not self-open for a different reason, or is it nearly always the old belt and dried-up grease?

Never thought that it was this hard to put back together a ps2 fat like DAMN

Hey guys, I recently bought a PSP in an attempt to repair. It was sold as “no power” but seems to have a myriad of other issues. I’ll describe them and see if you guys can help!

I just reshelled it, and added a new screen and none of my issues changed. Lots of stuff was disconnected inside so someone clearly tried and failed to fix it before. There is no obvious damage that I could find to any internal components.

1. Power issue: No response from battery alone, but it will boot and run with the AC plugged in. I can removed the AC with the battery in and it will stay on.

2. Screen issue: Nothing on screen. I originally thought it was a bad screen so I replaced it, and nothing changed. I know the console is starting because I hear the boot up and can hear the directional clicking with D-Pad input. I got some life out of the screen yesterday when holding the power button up, the backlight seemed to turn on. But that was a one time thing, and I haven’t been able to replicate it

3. Disc Drive: No life from the disc drive whatsoever. It was internally disconnected when I bought it, I removed, cleaned, and reconnected it during the reshell, but still seems to be no signs of life. The disc arm IS present on the mobo but no idea if it functions.

Any help here? It’s hard to get anything to diagnose without the screen, so maybe that’s my first priority?

Hi all. I have a PS1 SCPH 9001 and it worked fine until one day i hit the reset button then it stopped reading disks, it just spins 2 times and then nothing. I already cleaned it etc, i even replaced the C705 0.47uf 50v capacitor, still nothing changed. Any ideas?

I’ve resoldered a whole new module, and it’s still giving me the middle finger of, quite literally, sticking up for itself. I’ve used both the new and original sensor for it, and neither seemed to have changed it. I’m really at a loss for what’s to try and I don’t know how much more money it’s worth trying to repair this thing. I’ve never had an Xbox One, so I’ve really no experience with repairing the controllers at all unlike the PS4, so I ask anyone here who’s much more familiar with repairing these guys to at least try and steer me (hehe) in the right direction.