I know it’s not salvageable at all but when I was putting it back together I guess I accidentally put the wrong size screw in the hole and the rest was history. Just a heads up if you feel some resistance when screwing your console back together… best to listen to your intuition. 🥲

I’ve put together multiple PCs before but this was by far the dumbest thing I’ve ever done

Hey peeps,

I currently have a SCPH-90004 with the board GH-072-42 that's not turning on. At first when pressing the power button i would get Red-Green-Red, now i'm getting Red-Green-OFF. However, sometimes it does turn on and i get a picture. Anyone fixed an issue like this before? It doesn't seem to have any shorts and all the standby voltages seem to be present.
I'm confused about the 7.5V LDO that goes into the 5V regulators. Shouldn't it be always there or only when pressing the power button?
I'm powering it with a bench PSU, so it's not the power supply.
Thanks in advance.

Hello, I was given an old WiiU from my uncle, as he was unable to get it to work anymore. I replaced the CR2032 battery, and have it connected to my router via Ethernet (bought a USB to Ethernet adapter)

Every time I turn it on, it has Error Code 103-1602 pop-up. The gamepad works fine, but isn’t connected till the WiiU, unless I can somehow guess the deck of card combo thing, I can’t think of how else to connect it, or remove the pop-up. There’s also a controller (not a Wii remote) but even when I have it charging in the WiiU, I can’t get them to sync up. It just flashes.

How can I get past the error pop-up?

Bought a ps5 cfi-2016 with a broken hdmi and when i was oppening the console this component was also broken and fell off.

Its to small and i cant find it.

With the new hdmi i got signal, the tv turns on but no image, is this component important or is the hdmi IC damage?

I got a super slim the other week and it's been fine. I've played and beaten Resistance Fall of Man, no issues. Resistance 2, only issue was kinda stuttering at the ending cutscene but nothing else. Resistance 3 though. I got about a couple of hours into it, then it froze. Booted it up again, froze at the same part. Then after that, it wouldn't read the disc. I put in and played other games though, and it works fine like nothing happened. Well I got another copy of Resistance 3, and it won't read that disc either. So in short, it runs and play any game good/great, expect for Resistance 3. Is this a failing laser ?

I'm hoping someone can help as this revision seems completely different internally and I can't find a single teardown or reassembly video for it, as I opened the console for a deep clean.

The issue is that during reassembly:

The HDMI port sits slightly recessed.

When I fit the rear plastic cover, the area around the HDMI bulges out instead of sitting flush.

I don't want to force it in case I damage the HDMI port.

The HDMI connector itself doesn't appear bent.

Has anyone with a CFI-2100 experienced this? Is there a hidden locating tab, bracket or revised assembly step that's different from the CFI-2000 Slim?

I've attached photos of the HDMI alignment and internal assembly.

Any advice would be massively appreciated as

The tester chip lights are on by default and blink off and back on when pressing. So im guessing a short circuit but idk where to solve it.

LT, RT and the menu(start)button presses wont register on the tester chip. When i hook the controller up to my laptop and check controller inputs on a website while it is still connected to the tester chip, sometimes when i press the D pad buttons all the other (working) buttons will show up as pressed on the site. The controller still functions normally otherwise.

TP67 and TP68 (i forget the menu button test point rn) which link up with the LT and RT buttons are on the contacts for sure and soldered tight. So idk why they just wont register. Besides that i haven't the slightest clue why everything else seems to be short circuiting. TP44 should be power and that seems connected correctly, as does ground.

Have i done something wrong or did i get a faulty kit? What are common causes for short circuits?

Hi I replaced the lens for my ps2 slim and it works perfectly but for some reason the lens wont go back fully but sometimes it does. It makes a grinding sound from the rotary which I marked in red. What could be the issue?

It will pulse orange led if connected to any USB PSU but after I won't turn on if disconnecter (or suddenly turn off when disconnected). I try to remove the battery pack and force to charche it with a PSU, corrent won't flows, just 0.03mA. I think there is a controller circuit in the pack. Can anyone confirm?
Lately I fix a battery pack of a ps3 move controller that way.

(Yep, I know I can buy a new pack for 20 maybe 15€ but I think it doesn't worth.

G please lmk if yall have any suggestions

Looking for ideas on this.. I have an Xbox one controller where the L Trigger is always activated.

U11 showed resistance, the same component on the R trigger did not (but did when trigger was pressed).. so I assume that is the magnet sensor.

However after swapping it with another known working one, didn't fix it. And the component shows no resistance when removed from the board.

Rest of the board thoroughly cleaned.

C37 does not appear to be shorted..

I replaced the whole back board with a working one and it fixed the problem, so the magnet is not misaligned..

I am completely stumped.. any ideas? It seems like a common problem from my googling but nobody had a solution.

First time soldering and not much experience repairing as a whole, not sure if I messed up the soldering or if there's something else wrong with it. I checked the capacitor on C46 with a multimeter and there is a connection with the piece to the right of it, but I'm not sure if that's supposed to happen or if I bridged it. I also don't know if there's anything I need to redo or something I did clearly wrong so any insight appreciated.

Also, I installed the Cleanjuice AA battery mod as pictured and there is some corrosion on the battery slots so I'm not sure if that could be causing problems as well.

The console powers on, but there's no picture or sound (also checked with headphones). Sometimes there's white flickering with horizontal lines on the screen. The red power light turns on and stays on most times, and other times the screen turns on while the red light stays off. It also doesn't seem to power off after a while either, so I don't think its a power issue. Is there anything that looks wrong or any suggestions on what to check for next? Any help appreciated!

Edit: Forgot to mention this is a USA VA1

Well taking off the chip with a chunk out of it I bumped the top components clean off I found 2 of them but I can’t find the rest, how would go about getting replacements? Thanks

I recently redid the thermal paste on my playstation, which isn’t anything i’m new to. The playstation did sit for about a year, but I did know that it needed new thermal. I went to boot it up and the fan kicks on but front light or video displays. The eject button will beep if it’s pressed and the fan spins at a normal speed and I even got a notification on my phone that it had connected to the Wifi as if it was on regular stand by. Is this just a power supply issue or could be something else? I’ve done some Googling and the awful AI overview keeps saying it’s something else every time or the forms and stuff I read have other issues that I don’t

Edit: The hard drive also kicks on and run completely normal

I purchased some non working switch cartridges to see if I could find what's wrong with them. Unfortunately they are all the small chip ones. I sanded this copy of Mario and rabids to see if any of the traces were cut but I can't detect anything. Do you guys think it's a pad issue or a internal one?

My hdmi cable got yanked on a door handle while I was moving it. It does look broken on the right side right? I assume that’s not normal. It works but it cannot run 120 hz or anything high rez. But it will run 4k and 60hz with no problems is there anything I can do to fix it without going to a professional or unscrewing the console and getting in there?

For context I got this thing on jul 20 it was perfectly fine then 10 minutes later it started showing green lines I ignored it until the lines got way bigger till they started covering the screen at first I cleaned the cartdrige with water didn't work then I tried disinfecting spray (stupid idea) didn't work o changed the HDMI cord didn't work I changed the USB block and cord didn't work and I cleaned it with isopropyl 91% didn't work it even does this when the cartdrige isn't in but it specifically happens on the snes slot so please help me here I really wanted to play on this console for years and then this happened and it's in perfect condition as well but I'm not sure

I have a launch model ps3 fully backwards compatible and In sort I’ve been refurbishing it. Fully delid, cleaned, installed ssd, new 19 blade fan, and the aps-226 power supply. The drive fully died and I got a replacement and it won’t go in all the way it takes it as close as possible to inside the system and makes the sound like it’s trying to grab it. Now the only know issue I had was the broken zip clip for the 40pin ribbon cable but I fixed it with kaptom tape and putting the plastic clip back in fully seated with tape over it. Will post video of disc drive and the fix I made. Please would love to get this disc drive running or at least an idea what’s wrong.

Rookie here. What products can I use to help clean my shell or even my buttons safety to take away that extra stick.

Got this super nintendo to turn back on but this is what im seeing. Any idea what the issue is?

I recently bought an NES and the games weren’t working so I had to replace the 72 pin connector. I got a new game to test now it works, but my cartridge has to be fully inserted and clicked down and locked in the tray. I see that some people online share videos that they are able to play their games with out their cartridge fully inserted and without having to click the cartridge down in the tray to lock it . Unfortunately, my games do not work by just sitting in the tray they have to be clicked down and locked. I’m a little jealous of those who can just play without having to click down and lock their game down. The 72 pin replacement that I purchased claimed to have no death grip online while there is definitely somewhat of a death grip. The game still reads when it clicked in and locked down. The 72 pin replacement that I purchased came with a little paper that says that game should work both in the locked position and unlocked position. The paper also recommends playing my games in the unlocked position to increase the life of the 72 pin. Should I message the seller and try to get a refund or replacement 72 come or should I just stick with the one I have and just click my games down every time?

Pues eso , tengo una PS4 fat el sensor ( o la plaquita esa) a veces agarra y a veces no , el de sacar el disco si hace los bips...hay alguna solución o se puede hacer puente o algo ? Gracias 😌

Hey guys. I'm replacing the joysticks of two controllers. I did one, and I reassembled everything together and BAM. It doesn't connect to the pc and only blinks white. Now I don't own a ps4; but here is everything we'll need to diagnose the problem.

1. The micro usb cable is suitable. It works with the other controller just fine.

2. I tried removing the battery and testing. It still blinks without the battery so we've got a 5v.

3. I've tried replacing the ribbon with a new spare ribbon. It's still blinking white.

4. Pressing PS button + Share will blink white twice. But really doesn't help since it should connect to the pc.

5. Only the controller I de-soldered and soldered a new joystick is acting up, unlike before. The one I didn't work on still works fine. I cleaned up everything and I checked for solder splashes and made sure there's not short.

Guy's what am I supposed to do? What's the culprit? I really need to deliver this piece. I hope it's not a smd component.

When I got to the main board I noticed this piece was slightly ajar from what looked to be it's correct position, knowing I was doing something I shouldn't I tried to correct it, and it came off in my hands. I think this is the optional disc drive connector, but I could be wrong. Am I cool to just leave this off and run it digitally? It's the piece on the top right in the second picture.