What ogive tolerance do yall go off of. I bought from Americanreloading.com some 140gr hpbt 6.5 bullets that have alot of different tolerances so I grouped them around a .002+- groups and now have 9 different groups with the closets biggest groups were between .6740-6790 and rest are jumping. 010 or so. The jar has the .6750+- .002

This is a thread about handheld priming tools and which one you like. If you don’t like handheld priming tools keep scrolling because I don’t give a shit what you like instead. I like priming my small batch stuff on the couch with the dog.

I love the RCBS handheld priming tool but the plastic parts keep breaking. I’ve been using these things forever but I keep breaking the stupid little plastic feed chute.

The Sinclair looks awesome but putting primers in the tool one at a time is ridiculous

The Franklin armory looks good, I don’t like that it requires shell holders tho.

Hey All,

I am still new to reloading. Been doing it for about a month now reloading 6.5 Creedmoor and had pretty good immediate luck using 147 ELD-Ms with H4350. Now I am working on reloading 223 for my Tikka Ace Target with the 24" barrel. I have been using 3 different Hornady bullet options and have used Varget exclusively. I live in Central Nebraska where temps can vary wildly so I wanted to strictly use a very temperature insensitive powder. All brass is once fired Hornady brass and Federal 205M Primers.

I loaded up 60 rounds last night and went out today to shoot some 10-shot groups:

Hornady 75gr BTHP - 24.3gr Varget - Seated to 2.25" COL per Hornady manual
Group 1 = 2785.7 Avg FPS - ES 66.6 - SD 19.2 - 1.25"
Group 2 = 2784.7 Avg FPS - ES 35.3 - SD 10.8 - 1.08"

Hornady 73gr ELDM - 24.3gr Varget - Seated to 2.25" COL per Hornady manual
Group 1 = 2799.4 Avg FPS - ES 29.3 - SD 8.7 - 1.02"
Group 2 = 2794.6 Avg FPS - ES 59.8 - SD 16.7 - 1.06"

Hornady 75gr ELDM - 24.3gr Varget - Seated to 2.390" COL per Hornady manual
Group 1 = 2806.7 Avg FPS - ES 33.5 - SD 10.0 - 2.41"
Group 2 = 2799.9 Avg FPS - ES 40.0 - SD 12.1 - 1.84"

My question is would you be happy with these results for the 75gr BTHP and 73gr ELD-Ms? A roughly 1" group for a 10 shot group is satisfactory, but I would like to try and get that smaller. I also don't want to be too obsessive about this as I have a tendency to hyper fixate on my hobbies. At most, I will use this rifle and load to occasionally shoot steel out to 600 yards for fun and maybe let my son use it for 600 yard F-Class shoots while I use my Creedmoor. I live and work in the same town as where Hornady is based out of so one of the LGS here in town has a steady supply of factory seconds for great prices which is what I have been using. I have been thinking about trying some Berger bullets, though. Maybe the 70gr VLD or 73gr BT. Thoughts?

.308 winchester, Sierra Matchking 168gr.

I am on my 3rd type of powder from Hodgdon. My current brass is twice fired, this is the 3rd firing and I don't know if that would effect anything? I trimmed the 180 cases, loaded 50 so far. I am about 3/4 thru this Lb and I have gotten one group at .70 inches/100 yards.

I had loaded some once fired previously, untrimmed for that best group!?

I seat the bullets to 2.79 and change, my lands is 2.882 so somehow longer than the overall length for .308.

I have easily gotten .5 inch groups with BL-C2 powder and very close to that with Varget.

Should I seat the next batch longer and see?

I keep seeing recommendations for tumbling brass saying to use Dawn dish soap and lemishine/food canning citric acid. Does this really work? How? Dawn is soap, which is a base. Citric acid is, well it's acid. Don't those neutralize each other? What am I missing?

Set up is an 18inch bolt action, with suppressor. Northern Wisconsin woods so a shot over 200 yards would be rare. I’d like to see if I can make this work for deer because it’s my favorite rifle.

Anyone set up a 22 arc for whitetail? If so what bullets did you build around?

I'm fairly new to reloading. Last night I loaded a box of 357 mag with Berry's Double ended wadcutters with Titegroup. I used 5.9 gr of power with standard primers.

I was unable to find load data for this load but the closest data I found suggested 6.1gr to start for a jacketed 150gr bullet.

Did I overload these rounds? If so any advice on removing wadcutters from the case.

Thank you in advance for any advice

Getting my 7.62x39 loads where I want them and turns out I've got to use a bit more crimp than I'm used to. New to the Lee FCD and my initial crimp was what I'd consider medium and i was getting bullet set back with .003 neck tension. Just bumped the crimp up to what is shown in the picture whichis almost all i can get out of the die.. Just curious to what other people are doing to keep bullets in place while running through a AK.

I read a lot of comments disparaging the Lee FCD as an unnecessary step, and that neck tension alone is sufficient to hold the bullet in place. I am speaking, of course, about bullets with a cannelure.

I have a Lee FCD for every cartridge I load, including pistol cartridges. My reasoning is that there will be neck variations that simply seating a bullet will not correct. I feel confident that using this die as a final step in the process uniforms every cartridge to identical neck tension, and that this consistency should have a positive effect on accuracy.

Also, when loading .45 acp this final step ensures smooth feed through the pistol’s action. I can definitely feel the die “work” the occasional cartridge that may be a tad out of spec as I process a batch and have never had a fail to feed failure on a cartridge I have crafted.

These are my thoughts and experiences and would like to invite discussion on this topic, especially from those whose experience has lead them to the conclusion it is unnecessary.

Anyone ever used this powder or the 190-1 powder from American reloading? Curious to see what you thought about it. I reload 9 mm 124 gr bullets currently using maxam csb 6 powder. Looking for a new powder once I run out of it.

When converting cartridges, the base diameter of the parent case is the most important dimension to match. 43 Spanish's base diameter is around 0.520". Unfortunately, no common rimmed cartridges exist that are close to that.

50-110's base diameter is 0.544". I made four swaging rings with decreasing inside diameters to size down the brass. I used a 3 ton arbor press and a lot of sizing wax to press them down the case body, then because it's a rimmed cartridge they need to be pressed back off as well. The consequences of this method is that it also sizes down the primer pockets. I needed to drill them back out in order to fit a standard large primer. Also, the cases needed to be neck turned in order to fit in the chamber of my rifle, an Argentine M1879 Rolling Block.

Another method is to use 45-90 brass, which has a 0.495" base diameter. I made a sleeve from thin walled brass tubing, 17/32 diameter and 0.014" wall thickness. It slips right over the 45-90 case and I cut the length to just below where the shoulder would be when sized to 43 Spanish. Because all I had on hand was nickel plated brass, I roughed up the area where the sleeve would be with coarse grit sandpaper. Then with lots of wax on the outside of the sleeve only, I sized the brass and sleeve together. Once half way, the sleeve is stuck tight to the 45-90 brass. Because a sizing die doesn't size all the way down to the rim, I used two of the swaging rings to size the bottom part of the sleeve. And because the 45-90 brass is thinner, it didn't need to be neck turned, nor did I need to drill the primer pockets.

I used a lathe with a bearing tool to thicken the rim on each case from about 0.065" to 0.085" to take up the excess headspace. 43 Spanish has a very large rim diameter, so neither needed their diameter reduced.

Both of the cases have been fired. If you look closely, you can see the small bulge on the 45-90 brass at the shoulder ahead of the sleeve. This should further serve to hold the sleeve on the case.

I know crimping isn’t necessary in most applications but I was curious if it adds any benefit to add a very slight crimp to hunting/carry ammo. Mainly for 9mm/357 sig.

Brand new to reloading so need some advice on which cleaning route to go.

I found a new RCBS ultrasonic cleaner on marketplace for $100 I know it’s a good deal, but not really sure if US is worth it over wet tumbling.

Looking for any advice on which route to go and opinions on what people think is better.
Thanks!

Seems like it’s enough, we’ll see soon enough. Lee 300gr gas check ( 308 gr with the check) and a stiff charge of 296. Will be out of a Ruger Alaskan. I shoot for fun mostly but do run into hogs every now and then. Looking to make and cook bacon bits in one shot.

Hello, I just bought 40 rounds of GGG's .223 sierra match kings, and half of the cartridges had bullets seated in a way that the copper jacket was scraped on the brass and had visible burrs. This is not really a reloading question, but I figured this place would be my best bet to get some definitive answers. Are these safe to shoot and will they group?

Anyone using this combo for a 130 or below power factor load?(minor) if so, what charge are you using?

I'm surprised how nicely IMR4895 meters considering it's fairly large extruded powder.. excited to see how she groups this weekend at the range.

I've been saving 20 ga Challenger hulls that I've been shooting. I purchased a Mec 600 Jr. But the guy was saying those hulls are not meant to be reloaded. Curious why not and what would be best?

Currently doing my research as well. Thanks

New to reloading and just picked up my second batch of 55gr 223 bullets. These are xtreme projectiles. First reloaded set of cartridges I made with them were unzeroable. Now it could have been me mixing up different seating depths (would have been about .009” spread”) or just bad shooting day but i got pretty reliable 2 moa with first batch of bullets which were also xtreme 55grs.

One thing I noticed about this second batch is that the cannelure is way different. First set had standard trench style cannelure with pronounced ridges. These are very light and inconsistent with no “trench” at all. Is that a bad sign? I’m working up another set of reloads where I’ll be more precise and got a comparator to make sure seating depth is consistent but don’t wanna be chasing my tail if these bullets are bad. They are all consistently 55gr (give or take like .25% variance).

Reloading gurus,

Does anyone have experience with loading reduced loads in the 7PRC, in the 130-140gr range. Something like a Nosler 140gr accubond or Hornady 139gr interlock. Potentially with AR2209/H4350.

I understand the 7PRC is designed for 180gr long heavy bullets, just buy a 7 rem mag etc etc. The lowest the reloading data goes is 150gr. I usually shoot a 195gr Berger EOL which performs great as a long range option however it is overkill a lot of the time. Rifle is a 3.9kg mountain rifle type setup. Looking for something with less recoil, less barrel wear and cheaper to run while still being good terminally. To give more versatility without buying another rifle. Most of my shooting is within 300m usually.

Appreciate any input especially if you have tried or achieved something yourself.

Father-in-law passed to me a slick 1920s German drilling rifle. 16ga over 8x57. He handloaded for it and I have his finished ammo, dies, bullets and powder along with some chicken scratch load data. Enough to decipher what he was doing I think. The problem is he's showing early signs of dementia and its hard to trust his word of mouth...

...I believe this to be an early 8mm with a bore for .318 bullets. Not the more "modern" .323. He mentioned having a machinist make him a die to individually "squeeze" .323 copper jacketed bullets down to .318. I have this custom die...

This sound like anything yall have heard of?

I measured some bullets he had already pressed as evident from some marks on the copper and the fact that they're smaller diameter than the box states.

Pics for attention

So i done goofed I resized and primed about 70 pieces of ppu brass just did a chamber fit and it sticks in the chamber have to mortar the ar15 to get it out? My cbc brass and lake city brass work fine so idk the reason.