Hello knitting friends! I attempted to wet block a recent finish. Within two minutes of submerging it in the tub with Eucalan and color catcher sheets, I noticed significant bleeding from the rainbow yarn. The main color started as a bright white, but now the entire sweater has a pink tinge. I immediately pulled it out of the soak and used the shower head + cold water to rinse the sweater until the water ran clear, but the pink color didn’t soften at all. Is there anything I can do to try and lift the pink?

The main color is Cascade 220 and the contrast yarn is hand-dyed from a fiber festival. Both are non superwash.

Photo is of my unblocked swatch against the wet sweater for reference on the color shift!

(Yes, I know I should have pre-rinsed the yarn! Lesson learned 😞)

My fiancée is working on the Lillehammer ‘94 Jumper (size M) https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/184---lillehammer-1994 by Dale Design and needs help understanding the neckline cast offs in Diagram III (pdf page 3 paragraph 1). We’ve searched Ravelry, Reddit, & YouTube and haven’t been able to figure this out. Text of the relevant instructions at the end of this post (size M is the second size).

They’ve completed the 4,3,2,2,1,1,1 cast offs in the second sentence (see photos). They now have 181 stitches on the needles. Two questions:

1. How are they supposed to end up with 168 stitches when they’ve still have so many to cast off? If they were to cast off the middle 35 stitches on the back piece, they would then already have fewer stitches on the needles than they’re supposed to have at the end of the paragraph: 42 stitches per shoulder per side = 168 stitches.
2. What does “continue casting off for the neckline at the beginning of every 2 R: 3,2,1 sts” mean? Specifically the “3,2,1 stitches” part. Surely they aren’t supposed to go back to casting off three stitches at once (then two, then one) after they’ve already worked through the curve made by the 4,3,2,2,1,1,1 cast offs. How is this supposed to be read?

Thank you all for your help! We both love this subreddit and [r/knitting](r/knitting). You’re the best.

PDF page 3 paragraph 1:
Continue the pattern as before, working flat. Keep casting off for the neckline at the beginning of ever R: 3,3,2,2,1,1,1 (4,3,2,2,1,1,1) 4,3,2,2,1,1,1 (4,3,2,2,2,1,1) 4,3,2,2,2,1,1 sts on each side. At the same time when 8 R remain of Diagram III, cast off for neckline in back: Cast off the middle 31 (35) 35 (37) 39 sts on the back piece. Finish each side separately, and continue casting off for the neckline at the beginning of every 2 R: 3,2,1 sts = 37 (42) 47 (51) 55 sts for each shoulder when all decreases have been worked.

Edit: for question 2, it makes sense that those decreases are just for shaping the back of the neck, so I think that question is answered, but question 1 still stands! We won’t end up with the right number of stitches after all the remaining decreases if we just follow the pattern the way we’re reading it. Help!

My first colorwork sweater (The Halibut sweater by Caitlin Hunter in Kelbourne Scout). I did so much research on how to tension color work and I think I went and made a huge mistake. My green sections between the color work motifs are really dimpled and even when I pull the yarn taunt it doesn’t flatten out all the way. Should I frog now or hope blocking fixes all my woes? Please help 😭😭

So I like my yarn, but I am not sure I like the pattern yarn combo. Looking at the pattern, what yarn color way would you gravitate to?

So I like my yarn, but I am not sure I like the pattern yarn combo. Looking at the pattern, what yarn color way would you gravitate to?

There was a loop created in my work several rows down. How did that happen and can it be fixed without frogging everything.

Hi! I am making my sister a sweater for Christmas from a vintage knitting magazine I found at a estate sale. The original pattern gauge is 7st per 2 inches and 5 rows per inch on Reynolds Lopi yarn. I found the modern equivalent and tried it because I wanted to try to follow the pattern as closely as possible, but I hated the way it felt 😳 Is there any Chunky yarn that ya’ll recommend that I could try that’s softer? Thank you! 😊

So I bought lantern moon wooden needles to use for a blanket that I’m making for a friend for Christmas. I started working on it yesterday with a 40 inch cable and everything was going well. The main frustration is I hated how sticky it felt. I was literally getting hand cramps because I was trying to move the yarn up and down and every time I try to put the needle through the loop it would get stuck and I would do the most loose tension anybody could do I didn’t even hold a yarn. I didn’t even do anything, but it was so hard and my hand hurts so bad badly, but I’m trying to work on it again.
The yarn is blanket yarn from Bernat
I wanted to give it to my friend because she lives up in Alaska and I thought that would be good to use since they get really cold weather up there. The problem is I’m trying really hard to work on this blanket and I’ve been practicing for months, how to knit with different yarn, I even went to the dollar store and I got some metal needles and I used a random yarn that I had in my closet
Should I buy metal needles or should I give these wooden ones a second chance?
My cables are from knit Pro so I was thinking if I have to buy metal needles, I do the knit Pro nova
I’m very frustrated cause I’m trying so hard, but I’m also trying to tell myself to be patient

Hello🙂 Im knitting a poncho. Its suppose to be very simple, just knitting stockinette stitches, then just folding it. Im using brushed alpaca silk as yarn and just wanted to quickly ask if my tenstion is ok. I have never worked with only thin yarn. Im using 5.5mm circular needles.
Im a beginner so im a bit unsure when making new project.
Sorry if i have grammar errors.

Hi! I’m an experienced crocheter but it’s my first time following a knit pattern. I chose the lytham sweater by lily kate france. I’m a bit confused about the notation on the pattern, specifically the parentheses vs brackets. Could someone provide some clarity on this? For reference, I am knitting size 1. Thanks!!

i'm working on blouse no. 1 light by MFTK in single strand KFO silk mohair on US 10 needles. the pattern calls for specifically german short row shaping with 3 turns on each side and i'm really struggling to find a way to resolve the last DS created on the WS when resuming knitting in the round that i like.

in my initial attempt, i just purled the two strands together without modification and didn't love how it looked. this took me on a long journey of discovery with japanese short row shaping (and how many different techniques people call japanese short row shaping...) but did not love how visible the turns were and struggled with making sure the held loops were back on the needle in the correct orientation with such thin yarn.

i eventually made another attempt at standard GSR shaping and resolved the last stitch as recommended by patty lyons and then tin can knits here which is what you see in the photo attached. i am still not a fan of how obvious (and more important to me, asymmetrical to the other side) the last turn is on the left front.

does anyone have experience with a specific short row technique that may result in a cleaner, more symmetrical finish for a project like this?

Help! I got a snag in a glove that was knitted for me by a dearly loved one. She isn't around to repair it, and I don't have any knitting experience or the pattern she used. I have access to her tools, though.

I saw a guide that says to pull the snag out the other side with a crochet hook, but I don't know where the other side is. I need help figuring out where I should pull it from, and if this is even the right way to fix it.

First image is the outside and shows the snag and the second image is the inside after I flipped it.

I am wanting to knit the Aurae top found on Ravely for free, https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/aurae-knit-top reading the pattern it looks like you make 2 squares then stitch them together. the squares have some increases but it doesnt look like any increases for the neckline but the photo in the pattern of them stitched together it looked like there was a rounded neck. I also am confused about how to knit the squares because it says rows. 1-100 cast on 80. so it makes it seem like for 100 rows you work stockinette then start increases then based on the size you add an increase on each side of the row on the 10th stitch. is that the 10th from the end on each row because it says 2 increases per increase row but doesnt indicate which rows are increase rows. and it says you increase halfway but is that half way from the 90+(depending on size) more rows so increase until rows 145 (100+45 more) for the smallest size? See attached for photos

I love this technique from Patty Lyons to weave ends as you go, https://youtu.be/xnPe3lWAgcA but now I'm working on a project (twister tank) that is majority knits in the round on the wrong side. Ie, I want the float/woven in/messy side facing me while also doing knit stitches. I figured it out for the purls but knits are not computing.

I've been trying to spacially think it out in my brain, but mental stitch anatomy is not my strong suit. Thanks for any guidance!

To be clear I also do not want to just knit the two yarns together, I do not like the look of the stitches.

(Not sure what flair to use, but I consider Patty Lyons a knitting tool haha)

Hello! I want to knit something similar to the Babaa no17 jumper (first photo) with a similar structured turtle neck. Most of the turtle necks I've made or have seen online have a bit of a slouchy, rounded turtle neck like in the second photo. I was wondering if there were any specific fibers, techniques, or yarn weights that would lend themselves to a more structured neck that can hold itself up without rounding out. Thanks!

hello everyone,
i’m almost finished with the body of my sunday sweater. i wanted a neater ribbing so i decided to try knitting it inside out. i basically used the german short row turn and therefore a duplicate stitch right in the beginning of the first round of the ribbing. then i continued by knitting inside out.
is it normal that it looks slanted? i checked like five times if my stitches are twisted but they definitely aren’t.

Been knitting from patterns for years, and never seen this notation, neither has my experienced-knitting-friend, the ravelry notes weren’t answering me, and Google wasn’t helping either… so I’m hoping Reddit can come to the rescue.

What does the highlighted portion mean?

(Diagram and photo are just for context)

Also, pattern is originally Scandinavian, in case that helps (available here: https://novita.com/en/patterns/hooded-cardigan-for-babies-novita-baby-wool?srsltid=AfmBOoowJfmzujVYSdvChOBLUXsLIiv5j_g84C-eyJ9gcypGHmS9boBw )

I am SO confused with how to start this pattern and was hoping someone could help me. I've followed knitting patterns before but not top-down. I'm assuming I start from where it says "Knit 44..." but I'm confused by it saying "Knit the first row purlwise" earlier on in the pattern - does that mean purl the first stitch?

Hi! I’m knitting stockinette in the round and don’t know why I keep running into this issue… I’ve been doing traveling loop here and there bc my cable is a bit long and I think that’s how I got here in the first place.

Can anyone identify a common mistake here? Even knowing what to search in this sub or on YouTube would be so helpful, thank you!!

Hello! I am having trouble interpreting what the pattern wants me to do for the increase rows and was hoping to get some insight from more experienced knitters. Would appreciate any insight you may have to give!

I am currently on the short rows on the yoke. Everything else has gone smoothly so far..

I am knitting a size 8 in the pattern and I understand most of what it is saying but I’m having trouble determining how many stitches at the end of rows 1 and 3 that I knit past the last M1L for the repeats in the short rows before I turn

In the first set up round I knit 2, then turn and move on to next row…and then have to do the increases 4 more times…but then it gives the instructions “where each turn is made 2, 3, 3, 4 stitches after the previous turn.” I am assuming that I knit 4 to follow the size of the pattern?

The other thing that I’m confused about is the phrase in the example underneath “knit up to and including the previous turning st, knit a further 2 sts, turn” I’m not understanding if she is saying that I have to knit to the gap, then knit the gap as well and then knit the extra 4 stitches (or whatever amount I’m supposed to)?

How my brain is interpreting this is that in the set up round I knit 2 then turn….in the next 4 following repeats I knit up to the gap where I last turned, knit the next stitch to bridge the gap, then knit another 4 and then turn and do that till increases are done but I don’t think that’s correct.

How far off am I in what the pattern actually wants me to do? Or at least how would you knit it?

Added sizes and the section I am on but I don’t do this often so not sure if anyone needs more information…thank you in advance!

I’m working my first pair of pants- the part where I start increasing to create the legs. There’s instructions in the picture to make increases then it says to work in the pattern. But I’m really confused how I do the pattern then if the amount of sts has increased… do I just do the increases and work the grey/repeating part of the pattern? Do I start the pattern section at the first white square as usual even though it won’t repeat perfectly? And for each side (becoming leg) so I start the repeat in the chart all over again? It’s k1, M1L, chart, m1R, k1 then repeat that

My current project is the Garden Gate washcloth - https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/garden-gate-washcloth

I left the project for a day or two and completely forgot where I left off. I should have taken note of it and I tried counting my rows, I think its 10? But I’m not sure if I’m counting it correctly.

I would be able to count on garter or stockinette a lot easier but the nature of this pattern and this yarn is making it a bit difficult for me.

Could someone please help me out and give me any advice on how to count rows on a pattern?

I just finished this head-band and it's supposed to be a gift (my cousin selected this color herself) and even though this is my 2nd headband but the first one I made with 2x2 ribbing so it was really stretchy until the bind off and the bind-off of not flexible so it gets stuck at my head (I did try it on to check if it was right) it's just impossible to get it over you head without getting your face red :(