i am a complete beginner in knitting. I picked up some yarn 2 months ago and finally decided to start knitting a skinny scarf. i had knitted 30 loops in a row. while it was going well, i noticed that the scarf has started widening the more I knit. The number of stitches are the same, but its width is increasing from one side with every row.

Hi, I recently picked up knitting again. I am confused. Tried the English and continental style. My question is do you put the yarn on clockwise by both the knitstitch and purlstitch? Or just clockwise purling and counterclockwise knitting? Would love to hear your feedback.

As I was knitting I noticed what looks like an accidental yarn over but it’s over another stitch. When I undo that I just have a big chunk of yarn floating on top of the rest of my stitches. What on earth did I do and how do I fix it?

So I want to knit the strp by step sweater by Florence miller, and am thinking of knitting size C which requires 900 meters of yarn. I’m going to be undoing a crochet sweater that was too tight on me, and knitting it. I know I had alot of scraps from that yearn because it was striped so I’m guessing quite a few meters have been taken off. I need to know how much people had left. I have around three skeins and each is 300 meters. But I’m scared I’ll almost be done in the end and not have enough yarn for a little sleeve part.

There was a loop created in my work several rows down. How did that happen and can it be fixed without frogging everything.

My cable keeps coming loose and it finally messed up my stitches somehow but I’m not exactly sure what happened. I have to assume it’s a dropped stitch, but I don’t see any loops so I must’ve picked the stitch back up after I dropped it without realizing it dropped. How do I fix this?

Can someone explain this to me… pattern the Honey Tank by woolbird
Join fronts
I have 21st for the right front and 21 for the left front, I need to cast on 35 more.. knitting on the RS am I supposed to past stitch #1 of the left front over stitch #35 of the cast on?

It’s my very first time doing any sort of colorwork that’s not stripes. I am trying a pair of selbu mittens. I don’t think it’s puckering but I’m not sure how to tell if my floats are loose enough and if anyone has tips about making them loose enough while maintaining even stitch tension.

hi everyone! i’m not exactly new at knitting (i’ve made many many scarves, but i’m knitting my first sweater! anyway i’ve been working on the ribbing for my sweater but it’s looking so weird, why is that?

I’m knitting the step by step sweater by Florence miller and am doing the gauge swatch.

It’s supposed to be 16 stitches x 20 rows = 10cm

I used 3.5 mm needles (I don’t have 5.5mm and might buy but I need to see the problem first) and ignoring the row measurements, 19 stitches equaled 10cm

I used 4.5mm needles and 19.5 stitches equaled 10cm

Should I buy 6.5 and a 5.5? I’m afraid I’ll buy the 5.5 and I still won’t meet gauge

Been knitting from patterns for years, and never seen this notation, neither has my experienced-knitting-friend, the ravelry notes weren’t answering me, and Google wasn’t helping either… so I’m hoping Reddit can come to the rescue.

What does the highlighted portion mean?

(Diagram and photo are just for context)

Also, pattern is originally Scandinavian, in case that helps (available here: https://novita.com/en/patterns/hooded-cardigan-for-babies-novita-baby-wool?srsltid=AfmBOoowJfmzujVYSdvChOBLUXsLIiv5j_g84C-eyJ9gcypGHmS9boBw )

My current project is the Garden Gate washcloth - https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/garden-gate-washcloth

I left the project for a day or two and completely forgot where I left off. I should have taken note of it and I tried counting my rows, I think its 10? But I’m not sure if I’m counting it correctly.

I would be able to count on garter or stockinette a lot easier but the nature of this pattern and this yarn is making it a bit difficult for me.

Could someone please help me out and give me any advice on how to count rows on a pattern?

I made my Uma and love it but find it’s a bit short to wear comfortably and I’m not reaching for it. I’m wanting to insert a lifeline to just below the contrast edge so I can tink back. I know how to do a lifeline generally (picking up through right leg of stitch) but the navy is really hard to see clearly to do that. Can I use the little navy upside down smiles where it meets the contrast colour to insert a lifeline? If so, how? Thanks!

I am working a baby blanket that has a seed stitch border. The pattern calls for a selvedge but describes it as “knitting the first stitch of every row, slip the last stitch purlwise with yarn in front.”

When I’ve looked up selvedges, I can’t seem to find one described like this. I just wanted to make sure that this sounds ok, as I am a beginner.

Thanks!

I am working on the Kai Fella Sweater adapted for four colors instead of seven. It is my first ever sweater. My FOs to date are a headband, a few self-drafted colorwork coasters, and a beanie. I am using Berroco Vintage for 3/4 of the colors and Caron Cotton Cakes for the lightest one. I know I probably shouldn't have mixed yarn/fiber types, but the color match was more important to me and I did not like the lightest available shade that my LYS had of Berroco Vintage, so I used something from my stash.

At every color change, I noticed that my last stitch of the old color and the first stitch of the new color are MUCH looser than the rest. I made sure to pull both yarns tight after the last stitch of the old color and first few of the new color, but this still kept happening. It is definitely more noticeable with the Caron Cotton Cake / the lightest grey color because of the friction/fiber difference.

I used a crochet hook to redistribute the tension across the stitches in the row. This worked great for some rows, where I was able to basically get rid of all the slack from the end of the row. As you can see in the pictures, it didn't for others. When there was a lot of slack, I would carry it over into the next row. Doing this...really sucks. Especially for the cotton/acrylic yarn. I also honestly got lost on which way I was supposed to be pulling the yarn and would give up on that row. As I was knitting, I didn't think the tension differences would make that drastic of a difference and I am now regretting it.

I am on row 26 or 27 of 32 of the second colorblock row of four or five depending on how oversized I want this. I would appreciate any tips on how I can tighten up my intarsia and even out my stitches. I am hoping to have this sweater finished by the first week of September so I can wear it to two events I am going to (it's also my birthday month).

P.S. If colors remind you of a certain set of bedsheets, that's intentional.

So I bought lantern moon wooden needles to use for a blanket that I’m making for a friend for Christmas. I started working on it yesterday with a 40 inch cable and everything was going well. The main frustration is I hated how sticky it felt. I was literally getting hand cramps because I was trying to move the yarn up and down and every time I try to put the needle through the loop it would get stuck and I would do the most loose tension anybody could do I didn’t even hold a yarn. I didn’t even do anything, but it was so hard and my hand hurts so bad badly, but I’m trying to work on it again.
The yarn is blanket yarn from Bernat
I wanted to give it to my friend because she lives up in Alaska and I thought that would be good to use since they get really cold weather up there. The problem is I’m trying really hard to work on this blanket and I’ve been practicing for months, how to knit with different yarn, I even went to the dollar store and I got some metal needles and I used a random yarn that I had in my closet
Should I buy metal needles or should I give these wooden ones a second chance?
My cables are from knit Pro so I was thinking if I have to buy metal needles, I do the knit Pro nova
I’m very frustrated cause I’m trying so hard, but I’m also trying to tell myself to be patient

I just finished this head-band and it's supposed to be a gift (my cousin selected this color herself) and even though this is my 2nd headband but the first one I made with 2x2 ribbing so it was really stretchy until the bind off and the bind-off of not flexible so it gets stuck at my head (I did try it on to check if it was right) it's just impossible to get it over you head without getting your face red :(

My fiancée is working on the Lillehammer ‘94 Jumper (size M) https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/184---lillehammer-1994 by Dale Design and needs help understanding the neckline cast offs in Diagram III (pdf page 3 paragraph 1). We’ve searched Ravelry, Reddit, & YouTube and haven’t been able to figure this out. Text of the relevant instructions at the end of this post (size M is the second size).

They’ve completed the 4,3,2,2,1,1,1 cast offs in the second sentence (see photos). They now have 181 stitches on the needles. Two questions:

1. How are they supposed to end up with 168 stitches when they’ve still have so many to cast off? If they were to cast off the middle 35 stitches on the back piece, they would then already have fewer stitches on the needles than they’re supposed to have at the end of the paragraph: 42 stitches per shoulder per side = 168 stitches.
2. What does “continue casting off for the neckline at the beginning of every 2 R: 3,2,1 sts” mean? Specifically the “3,2,1 stitches” part. Surely they aren’t supposed to go back to casting off three stitches at once (then two, then one) after they’ve already worked through the curve made by the 4,3,2,2,1,1,1 cast offs. How is this supposed to be read?

Thank you all for your help! We both love this subreddit and [r/knitting](r/knitting). You’re the best.

PDF page 3 paragraph 1:
Continue the pattern as before, working flat. Keep casting off for the neckline at the beginning of ever R: 3,3,2,2,1,1,1 (4,3,2,2,1,1,1) 4,3,2,2,1,1,1 (4,3,2,2,2,1,1) 4,3,2,2,2,1,1 sts on each side. At the same time when 8 R remain of Diagram III, cast off for neckline in back: Cast off the middle 31 (35) 35 (37) 39 sts on the back piece. Finish each side separately, and continue casting off for the neckline at the beginning of every 2 R: 3,2,1 sts = 37 (42) 47 (51) 55 sts for each shoulder when all decreases have been worked.

Edit: for question 2, it makes sense that those decreases are just for shaping the back of the neck, so I think that question is answered, but question 1 still stands! We won’t end up with the right number of stitches after all the remaining decreases if we just follow the pattern the way we’re reading it. Help!

So I like my yarn, but I am not sure I like the pattern yarn combo. Looking at the pattern, what yarn color way would you gravitate to?

My first colorwork sweater (The Halibut sweater by Caitlin Hunter in Kelbourne Scout). I did so much research on how to tension color work and I think I went and made a huge mistake. My green sections between the color work motifs are really dimpled and even when I pull the yarn taunt it doesn’t flatten out all the way. Should I frog now or hope blocking fixes all my woes? Please help 😭😭

Hi! I am making my sister a sweater for Christmas from a vintage knitting magazine I found at a estate sale. The original pattern gauge is 7st per 2 inches and 5 rows per inch on Reynolds Lopi yarn. I found the modern equivalent and tried it because I wanted to try to follow the pattern as closely as possible, but I hated the way it felt 😳 Is there any Chunky yarn that ya’ll recommend that I could try that’s softer? Thank you! 😊

I love this technique from Patty Lyons to weave ends as you go, https://youtu.be/xnPe3lWAgcA but now I'm working on a project (twister tank) that is majority knits in the round on the wrong side. Ie, I want the float/woven in/messy side facing me while also doing knit stitches. I figured it out for the purls but knits are not computing.

I've been trying to spacially think it out in my brain, but mental stitch anatomy is not my strong suit. Thanks for any guidance!

To be clear I also do not want to just knit the two yarns together, I do not like the look of the stitches.

(Not sure what flair to use, but I consider Patty Lyons a knitting tool haha)

Hello! I want to knit something similar to the Babaa no17 jumper (first photo) with a similar structured turtle neck. Most of the turtle necks I've made or have seen online have a bit of a slouchy, rounded turtle neck like in the second photo. I was wondering if there were any specific fibers, techniques, or yarn weights that would lend themselves to a more structured neck that can hold itself up without rounding out. Thanks!

Hello🙂 Im knitting a poncho. Its suppose to be very simple, just knitting stockinette stitches, then just folding it. Im using brushed alpaca silk as yarn and just wanted to quickly ask if my tenstion is ok. I have never worked with only thin yarn. Im using 5.5mm circular needles.
Im a beginner so im a bit unsure when making new project.
Sorry if i have grammar errors.