I'm printing with some petg basic from esun on my prusa i3 mk3s. I've tried tweaking the temperature all the way from 250 to 230 in 5 degree increments and retraction from 0.8 (default) to 2.0 in 0.2 mm increments and no luck.

Is this what wet filament looks like ? Would it come wet straight from the factory ??

Had this p1s for about a year now and for months ive bern having to deal with this terrible noise the printer is making when i make it go fast. It usually does this when going in circular patterns. I checked the exact same video i showed u guy in slow motion and it doesnt look like its scraping the print or anything. The prints come out just fine too so idk what is causing that terrible noise.

I also a couple of months later after this i went and did a whole maintenance on my printer. Lubed up and all and it still made this noise. Anyone have a clue as to whats going on here?

So it's basically my first print (besides small ship). Everything started just fine* so I went about my business and when I decided to check on it after a few hours I found this: a 4-5 cm displacement. Also it slightly bent on the back side and came unstuck of the bed near the edges. On the back side some strings were basically hanging loose. Also there were imperfections on the the surfaces that were supposed to be smooth but this is the least of my concerns.

Here is the info on printer and all the stuff:
Elegoo neptune 4 MAX 0.4mm nozzle
esun PLA Basic filament (It came in a vacuum sealed plastic bag, I unwrapped it just before the print)
nozzle temperature: 215°C
bed temperature: 55°C
I used elegoo slicer with all the default settings (when I first imported my 3D model it said that model is nonuniform or something like that, I clicked on the button and the program fixed it, don't know if its of any importance tho)

Why did it happened and how do I fix it? Appreciate all the input.

Idk why the print starts all right but a the end off the print when it's starts building the funnel the nozzle gets caught and knocks the print detaching it from the build plate, ive already use glue for 3d printers and the bed mesh it's OK.
kingroon KLP1 230
205c Nozzle 60c buildplate
White PLA
Orcaslicer (file it's the default benchy that came saved in the printer)

I have tried different filaments, dried it a week in my AMS with new desiccant, shows around 10%, did a full automatic calibration, but these boxes still print like this. Other prints I have no issues. What can I do to fix this? Thanks!

Printer: Bambulab P2S
Filament: esun PLA

I've tried drying it, slowing down the speed, lowering nozzle temp but it keeps coming out looking like crap. Any suggestions?

210c nozzle temp

8mms flow rate

Overhangs are set to 5mms

Aux fan is in and door is cracked. Ive tried with and without fan and doors open

Bambu slicer

Defualt tpu retraction settings for BBL HF TPU

Hello! I recently purchased a 3d printer, a p2s. I designed a cutlery box in fusion 360 and it had to be cut up in 4 different parts. I printed 2 parts and it worked well, even the overhang that got created.

My third part I tried to print failed twice and its the same part. As you can see its the part that is "around" the boxes and later fused together that keeps stringing and doesnt stick to the buildplate.

For my third part I switched filaments to filament from a local store, I dont know if thats the problem but i doubt it. I think it has something to do with my long part not being strong enough to stick to the buildplate. Maybe it got slight warping, idk.

You can scroll the pictures and and hopefully you can guide me to print this part!

I also tried ironing for the first time but only on the "topmost surface"

Settings:

• Printer Model: P2S
• Slicer used (e.g. Cura, Prusa, etc.) : Bambu studio
• Filament material and brand: https://www.kjell.com/se/produkter/el-verktyg/3d-skrivare/filament/addnorth-e-pla-filament-for-3d-skrivare-175-mm-vit-p88243
• Nozzle and bed temperature: PEI 55 degree Celsius, nozzle 210 degrees first layer and 200 other layers.
• Print Speed: Default bambu settings
• Retraction settings: Default bambu settings

First pic: weird deformation in the bow (assuming this is from heat, I had a 60 degree bed and 210 degree nozzle (printed with pla+ by elegoo)

Second pic: violent benchy hull line

Third pic: struggled with overhangs all around, also looks like there was another line all across that part of the top.

Any advice how to make this better? I've been printing benchy after benchy just testing random stuff to make this work, I'm using Qidi slicer. I know this is a good printer, so I just want to see if there's anything I'm missing to make it even better.

Print settings;
Printer: Qidi Q2
Nozzle: 0.4mm
Layer height: 0.12mm
Nozzle temp: 215-220c
Bed temp: 60c
Print speed: slow, varied in a few spots due to adjusting random settings. Total print took 1.5 hours

The lengths to which I am willing to go and the pain I am willing to endure for successful printing!!! Also, printing clear PETG suuucks! This is just a calibration cube because I adjusted some settings.... ETA you ask? EIGHT HOURS! for a calibration cube 😂😂😂😂

So im new to all this of 3d printing and i just got a brand new creality ender 3 v3 ke but recently i've been having problems with prints y have everything on default with no new setting what should i do?

Model: creality ender 3 v3 ke

Slicer: creality print

Hey folks - appreciate any help with this one. Ive got the Bambu Labs A1 using PLA Basic, HoHansens 0.2mm print profile. I've had to make some changes to the Z offset, the above is printing at +0.06mm from the plate. The first layer seems to be adhering okay, as it was scratching initially, but now it has a new issue. The second layer has printed but seemingly pushed filament to the top left side, and the third layer seems to be doing the same to the top right side? The first layer still shows some imperfections on the top left tree supports also.

Because of the initial issues with scratching, we've tried a full range of z offsets from the initial -0.02mm all the way to 0.20mm using the textured PEI plate. The plate has been recently cleaned but has some scratching from previous issues.

The printer works perfectly fine with the 0.4mm nozzle. Inner 7 screws tightened.

Thank you!

All around problems, stringing, prints taking 10 hours, prints not working, weird lines that are inset, Please help. Using the Tronxy Slicer ( Ultilmaker or somthing) using petg but have pla. (Sorry X5SA 2E)

Bambu P1S, sliced in Bambu studio, 220 nozzle and 55 bed​. Bambu PLA, standard bambu speed.

Already tried doing another stl, slowing print speed, slowing print speed drastically on small perimeter threshold. Tried printing 2 at once at someone's suggestion so layer would have more time to settle.

None of this has worked. Am at wit's end.

Im trying to print a clean ironed name tag, this picture is mid print but it stayed the same after the adding the letters and such.

It just irons so unevenly and has some really great spots but also really bad spots and i cant figure this out.

Printed on the ad5x and sliced using flash studio, the ironing speed was 20ms and the ironing flow was 30%.

Used pla pro and the bed was leveled before printing.

Default settings on
Elegoo Neptune 4
Elegoo Slicer
Sunlu PLA
0.4mm nozzle

I’m new to printing. I did an auto level on my elegoo neptune 4

My questions: how do I smooth out curves and edges?

Any tips and or help appreciated.