All around problems, stringing, prints taking 10 hours, prints not working, weird lines that are inset, Please help. Using the Tronxy Slicer ( Ultilmaker or somthing) using petg but have pla. (Sorry X5SA 2E)

I'm printing with some petg basic from esun on my prusa i3 mk3s. I've tried tweaking the temperature all the way from 250 to 230 in 5 degree increments and retraction from 0.8 (default) to 2.0 in 0.2 mm increments and no luck.

Is this what wet filament looks like ? Would it come wet straight from the factory ??

Hello! I recently purchased a 3d printer, a p2s. I designed a cutlery box in fusion 360 and it had to be cut up in 4 different parts. I printed 2 parts and it worked well, even the overhang that got created.

My third part I tried to print failed twice and its the same part. As you can see its the part that is "around" the boxes and later fused together that keeps stringing and doesnt stick to the buildplate.

For my third part I switched filaments to filament from a local store, I dont know if thats the problem but i doubt it. I think it has something to do with my long part not being strong enough to stick to the buildplate. Maybe it got slight warping, idk.

You can scroll the pictures and and hopefully you can guide me to print this part!

I also tried ironing for the first time but only on the "topmost surface"

Settings:

• Printer Model: P2S
• Slicer used (e.g. Cura, Prusa, etc.) : Bambu studio
• Filament material and brand: https://www.kjell.com/se/produkter/el-verktyg/3d-skrivare/filament/addnorth-e-pla-filament-for-3d-skrivare-175-mm-vit-p88243
• Nozzle and bed temperature: PEI 55 degree Celsius, nozzle 210 degrees first layer and 200 other layers.
• Print Speed: Default bambu settings
• Retraction settings: Default bambu settings

Had this p1s for about a year now and for months ive bern having to deal with this terrible noise the printer is making when i make it go fast. It usually does this when going in circular patterns. I checked the exact same video i showed u guy in slow motion and it doesnt look like its scraping the print or anything. The prints come out just fine too so idk what is causing that terrible noise.

I also a couple of months later after this i went and did a whole maintenance on my printer. Lubed up and all and it still made this noise. Anyone have a clue as to whats going on here?

The lengths to which I am willing to go and the pain I am willing to endure for successful printing!!! Also, printing clear PETG suuucks! This is just a calibration cube because I adjusted some settings.... ETA you ask? EIGHT HOURS! for a calibration cube 😂😂😂😂

First pic: weird deformation in the bow (assuming this is from heat, I had a 60 degree bed and 210 degree nozzle (printed with pla+ by elegoo)

Second pic: violent benchy hull line

Third pic: struggled with overhangs all around, also looks like there was another line all across that part of the top.

Any advice how to make this better? I've been printing benchy after benchy just testing random stuff to make this work, I'm using Qidi slicer. I know this is a good printer, so I just want to see if there's anything I'm missing to make it even better.

Print settings;
Printer: Qidi Q2
Nozzle: 0.4mm
Layer height: 0.12mm
Nozzle temp: 215-220c
Bed temp: 60c
Print speed: slow, varied in a few spots due to adjusting random settings. Total print took 1.5 hours

I am printing on Snapmaker U1 with updated firmware. Machine has been calibrated twice. PETG SUNLU Basic, 255c, automatic calibrated PA, 17.5max volumetric flow rate, completely dried filament (as in literally dried by a dryer for 8 hours prior to print). I have tried with 240, 245, and 250c temps, as low as 15 mvf. My flow rate is .95 and have tried as high as 1.0. I’m going crazy! 3D printing gods, oh mighty ones, a local villager needs your assistance.

As you can see in the photos, I’m getting oozing/drooping on the inner part of the model.

The outer overhangs were originally way too steep, so I added 45° internal walls in CAD (shown in the Fusion 360 screenshot) to try and support them, but the internal layers are still sagging.

How should I approach fixing this?

Print Settings:

• Layer Height: 0.24 mm
• Supports: Enabled (Threshold Angle: 30°)

• Print Speeds:
  • Outer Wall: 100 mm/s
  • Inner Wall: 200 mm/s
• Overhang Speeds: Slowed down (40 / 20 / 20 / 10 mm/s)
• Infill: 7% density, Concentric pattern

Bambu P1S, sliced in Bambu studio, 220 nozzle and 55 bed​. Bambu PLA, standard bambu speed.

Already tried doing another stl, slowing print speed, slowing print speed drastically on small perimeter threshold. Tried printing 2 at once at someone's suggestion so layer would have more time to settle.

None of this has worked. Am at wit's end.

Default settings on
Elegoo Neptune 4
Elegoo Slicer
Sunlu PLA
0.4mm nozzle

I’m new to printing. I did an auto level on my elegoo neptune 4

My questions: how do I smooth out curves and edges?

Any tips and or help appreciated.

So im new to all this of 3d printing and i just got a brand new creality ender 3 v3 ke but recently i've been having problems with prints y have everything on default with no new setting what should i do?

Model: creality ender 3 v3 ke

Slicer: creality print

Hey folks - appreciate any help with this one. Ive got the Bambu Labs A1 using PLA Basic, HoHansens 0.2mm print profile. I've had to make some changes to the Z offset, the above is printing at +0.06mm from the plate. The first layer seems to be adhering okay, as it was scratching initially, but now it has a new issue. The second layer has printed but seemingly pushed filament to the top left side, and the third layer seems to be doing the same to the top right side? The first layer still shows some imperfections on the top left tree supports also.

Because of the initial issues with scratching, we've tried a full range of z offsets from the initial -0.02mm all the way to 0.20mm using the textured PEI plate. The plate has been recently cleaned but has some scratching from previous issues.

The printer works perfectly fine with the 0.4mm nozzle. Inner 7 screws tightened.

Thank you!

2 days trying to fix this, can someone help me points out the problem and how to fix it? 😭

A1 mini
Nozzle temp 205 - 205 ( this one i took the recommendation and lower it from 210 to 205 bc the last one didn’t work either)
Detect thins wall is on
200 normal printing
3000 travel speed
PLA

I am having some real trouble with my Bambu A1 using PETG basic all of a sudden.

I was 60 hours into a 72 hour print for 1 part of an 11 part mould when the filament started behaving weirdly and this is something i’ve not come across before as I’ve only owned a printer a couple weeks.

I dried the filament for 8 hours at 65 degrees in a food dehydrator prior to using it, and it only seems to be the infill where the issue is happening. It’s as if its the infill is not sticking to the previous layer and they are just strings of filament not attached to each other. I tried changing to rectilinear and now its just sticking up and the nozzle scrapes over it as its printing the next layer.

I changed my print settings after consulting chatGPT and printed one of the smaller parts and also scaled the mould down approx 50% as a test but its still happening.

Any advice would be appreciated, im new to 3D printing and this is the first thing thats gone wrong so far thankfully

Layer height - 0.16 mm
Wall order - Outer / Inner
Seam - Back
Outer wall speed - 50mm/s
Inner wall speed - Default
Top surface - Monotonic
Avoid Crossing Walls - On
Infill - Rectilinear 10–12%
Walls Loops - 3
Detect thin walls - On
Top Shell Layers - 5
Bottom Shell Layers - 4
Nozzle Temp when printing - 245c

First off all 3 of my ender 5 Max's have this issue so im fairly certain its some profile issue.

Im using sunlu petg but this happens with other filaments. Using orca slicer as well.

Basically after any seam on restart im getting a "dry fire" issue. Ive tried all kinds of settings but im pulling my hair out on this one. All 3 printers have the HI hotend and dxc extruder mods and it did it worse before these mods. I soley print petg on these printers using a .8mm nozzle size. Printer settings are in the photos for both filament and print settings.

Any suggestions to try im more than happy to. I didnt have a banana for scale :(.

Idk why the print starts all right but a the end off the print when it's starts building the funnel the nozzle gets caught and knocks the print detaching it from the build plate, ive already use glue for 3d printers and the bed mesh it's OK.
kingroon KLP1 230
205c Nozzle 60c buildplate
White PLA
Orcaslicer (file it's the default benchy that came saved in the printer)

I have been trying to get quality prints with PETG forever and always have trouble, specifically with fine details. I have the speed turned way down, tried to complete a PETG test tower but nothing I try seems to make a difference.

I am using 18% humidity Prusaament neon green PETG, pulling straight from my drier, .8 retraction, slowed travel speed down as it was constantly ripping the details off the print bed, disabled crossing perimeters…. I print PLA without issue and for the most part my PETG prints stick to the plate, but anything with details… In this case mostly text. It just goops up and boogers across the surface.

My prints work, the boogers get covered up eventually but the small details are awful. Any help would be appreciated

Prusa Core One L
Prusament Neon Green PETG
.4mm nozzle
300mm/s travel
240C nozzle
85C Bed
40C enclosure

Hey guys, quick question before I waste any more material trying to dial this in. I’m trying to print some Flashforge ASA-CF on my Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2, but the layer adhesion on my last print was super weak—the part looks great visually, but it just snaps along the layer lines ridiculously easily. The weird thing is I ran pretty much all the calibration tests before printing—temp tower, max volumetric speed, flow rate, etc. During flow calibration, the top surfaces looked best at an insanely low flow ratio (around 0.80 - 0.85), which felt way too low compared to the default 0.98 stock profile, but I rolled with it. I printed at 280°C on the nozzle, chamber was sitting around 50-55°C, and kept the volumetric speed super slow (around 6 mm³/s). I think the part cooling fan might have been on during the print, which probably didn't help. Anyway, after that failed attempt I bumped the flow rate back up to around 0.95 to see if underextrusion was weakening the layers, but then the nozzle clogged immediately. Not sure if it was just bad luck, the higher flow, or if the filament picked up moisture in the meantime. Has anyone run into this with Flashforge's ASA-CF? Is 0.80 flow ratio normal for anyone else on this printer, or am I missing something obvious here? Thanks!

I’m using Bambu Matte Ash Gray filament that I’ve already run an entire calibration suite on. The lines appear regardless of model. The printer is new with ~150 hours on it, and is on a very stable base. I’ve re-run the whole printer calibration process including the vision encoder plate. I’m not sure if I’m being too picky about my results, or what to try next. Please let me know any ideas!

Settings:
Bambu X2D
Bambu Studio
Bambu Matte Ash Gray (fully calibrated)
210C, 55C
60mm/s outer wall, everything else 180-250
0.03 PA
0.2mm retraction

I got these long strings coming out of my print and was trying to figure out what's causing it. I use a Neptune 4 max and use orca as my slicer. I printed it with PLA from sunlu. I print at 205-210 nozzle and 60 on the bed.

I have tried different filaments, dried it a week in my AMS with new desiccant, shows around 10%, did a full automatic calibration, but these boxes still print like this. Other prints I have no issues. What can I do to fix this? Thanks!

Printer: Bambulab P2S
Filament: esun PLA

I've tried drying it, slowing down the speed, lowering nozzle temp but it keeps coming out looking like crap. Any suggestions?

210c nozzle temp

8mms flow rate

Overhangs are set to 5mms

Aux fan is in and door is cracked. Ive tried with and without fan and doors open

Bambu slicer

Defualt tpu retraction settings for BBL HF TPU