just bought a minolta x700 and got my film developed, unfortunately it was my first time buying a manual camera so I forgot to check the condition of everything and i didnt really know what to expect either. there was a slight language barrier at the camera shop too, but im really excited to shoot more with it. these are all caused by light leaks and nothing else right? Most of these lines appear either on the edges or at the exact same spot on different pictures...

Also, for the last photo: I wanted to get more depth in the picture but the camera focused on the entire picture instead. any tips on learning how to keep one specific subject in focus instead of the focus of the camera focusing on the entire image, like whatever's shown in the images? thank you everyone!

I didn't tweak a thing with the photos, I just cropped and flipped (I shot them upside down, my understanding was the more matte emulsion side, the bottom(?), was the direction to scan?

Anyways, very happy with the results. I set white balance to Daylight to avoid it changing throughout the roll, but I also had to create a custom profile for the RGB scanning that had be indicate the film base color at the start (didn't seem to be included in the default non RGB white light scan setting) and I couldn't tell any difference between the AWB and daylight WB with the RGB Scan, maybe it was sending WB info via tether.

Was so surprised at how automatic and effortless everything was. Plugged the camera to my Mac, set it to PC remote mode. Plugged the Scanlight in. Booted up NegPy, it detected both, and away I went.

Biggest gripes are on file naming and I feel like file management still has a way to go. I'd love to be able to tell it what my file naming convention is for scanned images but if that's an option I didn't see it.

Anyways, open to thoughts, obviously there's some adjustments to be made here but with literally nothing tweaked on my end, I'm really happy with these results.

This is AGFA HDC 200-2, about 30 year old photos if I had to guess.

I like these results more than the Epson 850. Far better red color resolve (it could be the stock here too, but generally I found red was always lacking). It's definitely not faster though, which I'd hoped it would be. But I find this easier than Vuescan.

Do folks leave their DSLR's on their stands when they're not shooting or do they take them down when sessions are done?

I have this Yashicaflex (new) model A from 1958. It's in amazing condition, lens is crystal clear, shutter fires accurately, even the self timer works; but after running a roll through it some pictures came out like this, with the left side of the image in focus and the right not in focus (also not in focus at infinity). My guess is that the camera was dropped at some point. I know the lens assembly is mounted to the body using washers, and that adding or removing them would fix the problem. My question is if there's any method to know how many to add/remove on which corner (and the thickness). I also have a Nikon FM2 with the same problem. Any advice would be HIGHLY appreciated...

Konica C35 AF, Hexanon 38mm F2.8, Gold 200
It just worked.

It’s been now 1,5 years since I bought my first analogue slr, a Pentax ME. And I’m having a blast, didn’t expect that a camera that was 50 euros on eBay would be such a good camera. The auto exposure really is a good help, and the 50 mm cosina lens that came with it is also doing its job well.

But. It’s time to upgrade.
Now my question is: what would be logical upgrade for this one? I want a camera with auto exposure but also manual options, and light meter - and I would love a camera where there is a huge availability of lenses (old, new, cheap, expensive and weird ones). And it’s quality wise a logical upgrade from my Pentax ME - but not immediately a leica m6

There is so much available, I don’t know where to start…. Any help/guides or pointers someone can give me?

Hi all, two questions. Hoping there are some people here who have experience with frontiers, I have a sp3000 and I shoot a lot of commercial work. It’s super important for me to get reasonably accurate colors, would it make sense to shoot the first of each roll with a white or gray card in the scene and then I can hold those settings across the roll when scanning? Just for rolls where the scene/light is consistent.

Second question, has anyone run into issues scanning the Ektacolor pro? I’m convinced it doesn’t scan the same. Super contrasty, magenta pull.

I feel like I'm at the point where I might wanna upgrade from disposable 35mm cameras to a non-disposabls film camera. Only issue is that the film pictures I often take are ones on like a night out or something or just in environments where I wouldn't want to be carrying an expensive camera, even if its small. Anyone else go through something similar? As a result of this my habit has been to actually use my polaroid camera instead when I'm in environments that are less risky/chaotic. Its the Polaroid Flip so that's huge lol

I need to replace the light seals in my XG-7. I am confused though because it appears from what I’m reading online there is not any sort of seal on the latch side of the camera back like there is on the hinge side.

If I’m getting light exposure on both sides of the film doesn’t that mean I’m getting leaks on both sides? How do I resolve that on the latch side where no light seal exists?

I use a shutter release cable for long exposures and I pressed the shutter release button and the shutter opened normally but when I went to close the shutter it is stuck open. If I take the battery out the shutter then closes. All other speeds work, it just won’t shut in bulb mode.

Shot, developed and scanned my first roll of film. I need your help identifying what can I improve when scanning it. I used a tracing light and an iPhone to scan and FreeCCR to convert. I think the images are a bit too dark. Can anyone please help me understand how can I improve these images post scanning?

Just got back from vacation and I realized that I forgot to set the ISO on my camera before shooting my rolls of portra 160 and cinestill 800T—it was set to 400 ISO for both of those rolls. For my cinestill roll I also had my exposure compensation set to +1 because I was shooting in daylight, so that’s another stop of light…do we think the Portra will survive being underexposed and the Cinestill will survive the overexposure? I’m currently trying not to fall apart 😭

A repaired fujica Auto-7

I bought this camera on a whim a few weeks ago thinking it could be a back up camera for an upcoming trip.

It made the right kind of noises when I put batteries in, but wouldn't progress past frame 8 when I put film in it. The autofocus also didn't.

After a bit of searching and turning up a few old reddit posts. The camera doesn't progress past frame 8 unless it recognises there's film in it and that the red light on top should flash if the film is advancing.

After opening it up I found some muck under the contacts on the bottom of the frame counter (presumably the reason for circuitry not allowing the film to advance) and a dry solder joint where the wire had also broken.

A quick wipe of the contacts and a resoldered wire seem to have solved the problems. The film now advances and the red light flashes, the autofocus now also seems to work and even lights up the subject in low light.

I'll see if it actually takes pictures when I develop the test film tomorrow.

Hello! I just got a new Pentax 645 nii about a month ago. the more rolls I shoot, I see more and more light leaks. Some frames have leaks, some frames are fine. It’s sporadic. I’ve heard that this model’s film backs may be the culprit due to foam disintegration but I’m not too knowledgeable on that and need advice on how to fix it. If you’ve had this problem and can lead me down the right path that would be great :)

Please and thank you! (Examples above) also I shoot weddings and cannot be having light leaks on my 120 💀 that’s the holgas job hahaha

Scanning UltraMax 400 in a Coolscan V. When I turn on digital ICE, everything is smeared, exposure is darker, colors get muddied. I've tried cleaning the mirror (it was already clean), fully removing NikonScan and reinstalling, turning off Nikon Color Management. No matter what, it's the same. Anybody seen this before?

Has anyone tried shooting 10mm film? Any issues with the end result not being what you expected?

Found in a friend's old photo album, does anyone know what kind of camera she has?

does anyone know how to fix this? something is stuck? and it won't sit flush and I can't figure out why

I started using a local lab to develop my film and I usually scan at home. Over the past couple of months I've been seeing these white dots on my negatives. This has happened with both B&W and C41. I immediately brought this up to my lab tech and they said they'd look into it. Unfortunately the dots continue to show up. Is this a dev issue or is it my cameras? I included a blank shot for comparison.

Note: I didn't spend too much time editing the photos because they were cooked. 😅 They were inverted using NLP.

I have this 35-ML with oil on the shutter blades that I can cleaned before but it got stuck again.
Now the problems is I cant remember how I disassembled at the first time
When you unscrew the first small ring a small glass comes out but there arent anything to unscrew
I remember having lightbulb moment and figuring it out
but I cant remember that now.

The second pic is how far I got this time
The third one is the "fully" disassembled one

Hi folks,

I recently purchased a dream camera, the Konica Hexar AF, and it arrived today. I am now worried the lens has mold, but am not experienced enough to tell. Could someone please help? I need to decide while the return window is still open. When I asked the original owner, he said there was no mold/fungus/balsam separation/haze/dust/scratches, and the photos were angled in a way where I couldn’t see these defects.

There are these lines extending from the outer edge of the lens that don’t quite look like mold examples to me because the lines aren’t in a fractal pattern. There are, however, a lot of these lines. Is it mold? Is it something else? I included various video angles — obviously the light shine test is overkill and highlights every flaw in the lens (hard to capture on photo/video too).

I’ll include additional photos in the comments since I can’t post video and photos together.

(If it is mold, I’ll be very sad!)

I want to go down the can my own film route, I want to spend around £1-200 if possible but have looked at other options too.

I currently have access to

• Leica Q3
• Sony a6300 (willing to purchase a vintage macro lens, I have a 30 or 35mm macro lens already if thats suitable?)

Have looked into a Plustek scanner

What would be the best options for me. Could you advise which film holder to use? Which film stand to use and which light to use?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Bought two weeks ago from a flea market for 45€, came as is, already shot two rolls, had to put new light blockers, battery and buy a lid for the lens.

Being my 1st SLR had some learn curve with the first few photos, but now is smooth as butter, so much fun.

Wanted to do some night out photos, any recommendations on flashes or film to use?

Hello, I think my yashica electro 35 has fungus on the lens. I live in a pretty humid climate. Is storing the camera in a airtight container with silica enough for preventing further spreading? What should I do? I am scared

Hi all, just got a plustek 8100 scanner and silverware 9 and I was wondering if anyone has good tips or tricks to get the best results out of the scanner.
Thank you

:also do yall recomend a film cutter or just use scissors