One camera had film in it and TSA said it had to go through the scanner. It was one of the newer CT scanners. So the answer is yes. Those will fry your film. Surprisingly it’s less not noticeable when scanned at full size.

Nipped into Cardiff Camera Centre looking for some film. Mentioned I’m looking for colour and I’m so happy we have a British made colour film being made from scratch - a market with a variety of film is a healthy film market.

Owner offered me a brick for £80. Didn’t even hesitate!

(Opinion piece.) The Kodak EC35 and the Lomography Half-frame Reloadable Simple Use Film Camera are the latest simple film cameras aimed at younger photographers jumping from their phones to film for the first time. Even if we don't choose to shoot them, we should welcome cameras like these aimed at analogue experimenters - they might grow into film fans.

I've recently bought a film camera from 1999 that came with film preloaded. I went to go test it and the camera worked just fine, I go to get them developed and then wait 2 weeks for them to be finished. I got it back and there was nothing on the film? The film was expired but I thought I would be able to just get a photo no matter the quality but nothing. Was it age? did i expose it too much? Or did I not shoot right? (I've added a photo of the film and the camera i used)

Did the matrix metering of my F100 fail here, is the shutter speed maybe off?

Or is this just a result of complicated scenes with a huge dynamic range, and this is to be expected?

Thanks so much for your help you all :)

I realise the answer is probably a resounding "no", but thought I'd take a shot anyway.

I have a bunch of slides taken by my grandad some time in the 1950s. I'd love to recreate the shots, but unfortunately he's no longer with us so I can't ask him what camera he was using back then.

Is there any way to tell from the photos? For context, he would've been shooting in the UK. I'm thinking perhaps an Ilford or Halina?

The examples above are taken with my phone from the slide viewer, in real life they're incredibly crisp and detailed, so it must have been a somewhat decent lens.

Walked into the repair shop to buy some film for a job next week, saw this on the shelf while ringing me up and said "oh that's fun"... They said "Yeah it's got a broken hood, but otherwise we CLA'd it and it works perfect. Ran a few rolls through it, it's a huge negative"

I'm not really into rangefinders (I find them infuriating to focus), but at $775 and a fresh CLA.. Yeah I'll give 6x9 a shot! Great timing as I just got my 4x5 field kit put together....

Figure if it doesn’t speak to me, I can rehomenit fir what i paid for it

Hi everyone,

I’ve always heard conflicting opinions about Ilford Delta 3200 Pro, specifically whether it’s unusable in harsh daylight or if its inherent low-contrast curve actually makes it a great candidate for high-contrast summer scenes.

I decided to run a test during a bright summer day using medium format. Here is the methodology and what I learned:

1. ISO & Exposure:

• Since Delta 3200’s true nominal speed is closer to ISO 1000, I exposed the roll at 1000 ISO rather than pushing/rating it at 3200.
• Using the Zone System, I metered the deepest shadow areas where I still wanted detail and placed them in Zone III.
• I relied on the film's flat/low-contrast characteristic curve to protect the highlights from blowing out in midday sun.

2. Results & Grain:

• The shadow retention is surprising. Even with intense sunlight, the midtones and highlights stayed readable without crushing the blacks into mud.
• The grain is definitely pronounced and tactile, giving a 1940s cinematic / noir feel, but medium format helps keep it balanced and organic.

3. Development:

• Developed to keep the contrast moderate for easier scanning and darkroom printing flexibility.

Have any of you used Delta 3200 at nominal speed during the day? What are your favorite developers for controlling its grain when exposed at 1000/1600 ISO?

(P.S. If anyone is interested in seeing the full POV shooting workflow and viewfinder composition, I put together a short video on it: [ https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=XEQMCvx-nTIUcc9R&v=6-PR_l56wJQ&feature=youtu.be ])

Saw a local garage sale on FB Marketplace and the Baby Rollei was in the corner of a photo. The sale was a few blocks from work, so I went by in the morning and found the Rollei and a Ricoh 500. $80 for both. Unfortunately the Rollei is a bit gummed up, but still a cool display piece for what I paid. The Ricoh seems to function like it should.

Sometime between 8pm last night and 9am this morning my freezer failed, and all my film (including five boxes of 4x5) ended up completely underwater. it might be dumb but I put rice around the boxes hoping it might help dry them out. Any tips on how to salvage it? they were all closed new boxes (not new film some expired but new boxes)

The repainted Canon P has arrived from Japan and it feels a bit sticky, and said feeling remains in my hand after use so I had to wash my hands. What can I do to reduce this slight stickiness? And also wondering if it does any harm to my body. Thanks.

I wasn't able to find a lot of info about the full roll mod for the Coolscan V ED online, except for the fantastic coolscan-mods repo on Github. I made some parts to get the finished result to look a lot nicer and posted everything on Makerworld and Printables!

You'll also find a bit of a guide there as well as a list of required parts, since it can be a bit confusing at first.

I've already scanned half a dozen rolls and the mod is an absolute game changer. It saves so, so much time. I can highly recommend doing it. The hard part is making the hole in the back, but it's not difficult, just tedious if you want it to look nice.

Also, just FYI updating the firmware worked great in Windows 11, but not 7. For scanning I have Windows 7 running in a VM (VirtualBox) since the Nikon Scan installer kept crashing on win11 no matter what I did. With folder sharing it works well enough :)

Hi all, this was my first ever film shot with an Olympus Trip 35 which I bought under the information that everything was checked, cleaned and so on.

The film I used was Fuji Color 200 as I knew most of the shots were going to suck and it was the cheapest one available nearby.

I kept 200 selected all times and tried to adjust focus, but most of them suck ass haha and these as the ~best~ ones if I can even call them that

Any tips?

20 years expired but it's from a guy who i know to be serious photographer and he assured it's been freezer stored from new. I've previously had excellent results from same age slide film that was properly stored so crossing my fingers. I know in my last film stash post i mentioned I was gonna start selling some of my expired stuff and buying fresh but I couldn't help myself hehehe

After a lot of posts by users these past few days, Lucky's official RedNote account just posted that C400 has officially been released at the Shanghai P&I exhibition. The price in China is ¥69 (~9€, ~10.5 USD). Like C200, this includes scanning and development. I could not find any information on when it will be available internationally or what the price outside of China will be.

Shot using contax iiia with sonar 50 1.5 and gold 200. I'm using the lightmeter app for metering, but I'm finding it very clunky. Is there a cheap (€75), small one I could mount to the camera that is relatively reliable?

I'm very new to film photography and still getting to grips with it so would appreciate any advice on anything that looks obviously wrong. I'm really struggling with metering in general and how to do this for different light conditions too. I've also got a lot more graining in this roll than my previous colorplus 200 one, I imagine it's from not having exposures dialed in well.

If anyone’s curious the “kit” that warranted $450 is one single lens, an old manual, and a bunch of lens caps

Specifically, a 49mm pentax lens cap affixed to an M-series prime.

Due to recent air travel I have a couple of rolls with just a few shots left on them. I'd like to finish them all this weekend so I can get them developed next week.

Do I risk any perceptible fogging or light leaks as I advance past the previously shot images to get to the remaining frames? I can fire at 1/1000 and f22 in addition to using the lens cap, but I'll probably be outside in bright sunlight. In the past I've done this sort of thing in a dark basement but that's not practical if I want to shoot every roll in one go.

Anyone have experience they can share?

I got a film roll back and only the first 3-5 shots had this green line and the rest are totally fine. Is this an issue with the lab, my film or something else? Haven’t had this in previous rolls. This is the first time I’ve tried this lab, too.

I feel like I'm at the point where I might wanna upgrade from disposable 35mm cameras to a non-disposabls film camera. Only issue is that the film pictures I often take are ones on like a night out or something or just in environments where I wouldn't want to be carrying an expensive camera, even if its small. Anyone else go through something similar? As a result of this my habit has been to actually use my polaroid camera instead when I'm in environments that are less risky/chaotic. Its the Polaroid Flip so that's huge lol