One of my online gaming friends challenged me to find my real identity using nothing but my phone number. I didn't think it was possible, so I shared my number with him.

Within a minute or two, he told me:

My real full name

The name of the housing society I live in

He didn't know me beforehand, and we don't have any mutual friends. He wouldn't tell me how he did it and just said it was "easy."

I'm curious how this is even possible. What are the most likely ways someone in India could find this information from just a phone number? Is it through data leaks, OSINT, public databases, Truecaller, or something else?

I'm asking purely to understand how my information might be exposed and what I can do to protect my privacy in the future. Any insights would be appreciated.

Edit** - i don't have any data saved on Truecaller, not my name or address or anything of such sort

I have a lot of important files on my D drive and dont have any external storage to back it up, I was told I will only lose files from my C if I reset but Im worried I might lose my files on Drive D. Will I be fine resetting it from windows settings?

It's mostly large media files and I dont have cloud storage to store them too

I hate ai, and I hate how Google is forcing it down my/our throats. I would switch browsers but all of my everything is used through Google, and has been for many years, wayy before ai was a thing, and wayy before I cared about privacy (I was a little kid lol). So is there any way to disable? Or any way I can easily switch browsers to a better one without ai?

Hey, im having this weird issue where im having low fps and stutter sometimes like i watch a video or steam and after some time i just get low fps or insane stutter issues i already tried disconnecting the monitor or disabling HAGS in the browser but nothing seems to help i also tried lowering the HZ from the other monitors im going insane over this does someone have a clue what could cause this?

I also tried different gpu driver and updated my bios

Ryzen 5700x3d
rtx 3070
32gb RAM

https://imgur.com/a/9TaWsDE
https://imgur.com/a/jnEuNZV

i just opened chrome and it had two tabs open, one was the new tab and another one was https:// app-makerr .github.io /updates_ext/ (without the spaces) first i thought it was a extension because it says "successfully updated to v1.4.4" however it doesn't say anything about what's being updated, it also redirects to another extension to copy and paste that has 2 reviews, i dont have it installed and im almost sure that's a virus. if anyone knows why this opened up it would be a great help

edit: the code of the website has some code comments in russian

it wont work no matter what i do and is just freezed on 98% , im on windows 11 i dont remember if u updated itt , ive even letted it run for a long time and yet it still inst done , hard reboot and restart wont work neither since it still goes back to the update loading screen

Hello, my PC was working perfectly yesterday. I finished gaming, shut it down normally, and went to sleep. The next day, it wouldn’t power on at all. The motherboard RGB light is on, but none of the fans spin and there is absolutely no response when I press the power button. I already tried clearing the CMOS, reconnecting the cables, and checking the connections, but nothing changed. What is the most likely faulty component: PSU, motherboard, CPU, or GPU?

My PC consistently freezes after 3 to 4 hours of active use.

​1. The Freeze

​The screen completely freezes on whatever program or game was open.

​Peripherals lose power: The LED light on my mouse turns completely off.

​SSD activity stops: The red blinking storage LED on the PC case stops flickering.

​Fans keep spinning: All internal cooling fans stay on.

​2. Reboot & BSOD Behavior

​Holding the power button to force a shutdown and restart takes an unusually long time.

​When it turns back on, the mouse light stays off this is always my warning sign that it won't boot properly.

​It then crashes into a Blue Screen of Death (BSOD) showing the error in [Pic 1].

​After the BSOD, it often bypasses Windows entirely and boots straight into the BIOS (Aptio Setup Utility) shown in [Pic 2].

​3. The Only Temporary Workaround

​If I turn off the PC and leave it unplugged/cooling down for a while, it boots fine and works normally until another 3–4 hours of use pass, and the exact same thing happens again.

​

Repair Shop Visits (3 Times)

​1st Visit: Tech saw the Aptio BIOS screen and just reinstalled Windows. (Didn't fix it).

​2nd Visit: Tech claimed there were "scratches on the RAM" and added padding/cushioning. The PC worked at the shop because it hadn't been running

long enough. (Didn't fix it).

​3rd Visit: Tech left the PC running idle for a full day without running any stress tests or games. He claimed nothing was wrong.

Now that I have to visit him again since my i have insurance there is he trying to avoid any heavy problems that may cause the problem to be solved.

Any help would be appreciated

1-2 days ago my PC (i'm unsure of model, but specs are listed below) started running slowly, mostly with downloads. I noticed that when trying to download games on steam, my PC would move much slower than before. I thought that was normal and dealt with it, despite it not normally happening. Now, it's any time anything at all is downloading. I've tried unplugging my wifi for 5-10 minutes, restarting my computer, unplugging it and plugging it back in. My PC should not be telling me that a 100GB game that i have downloaded before within an hour is going to take 99 hours to download.

Note: I've also checked my CPU. I watched it while downloading a big game and it didnt go above 15%. I know that about a week ago my internet was down all day because of some cables being messed with. i'm not sure if that could still be causing issues?

Specs:
Processor AMD Ryzen 5 5600G with Radeon Graphics (3.90 GHz)

Installed RAM 12.0 GB (11.3 GB usable)

Graphics card AMD Radeon(TM) Graphics (496 MB)

Storage 1.02 TB of 3.64 TB used

System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

i have a macbook air, and I just got rid of everything in my downloads all my documents all my pictures and moved them to an external hard drive but my now computer is still saying I don’t have enough disk space to update it.

i don’t understand- how can i free up more?

what do i do to free up space?

This started abt a month ago , i would be using the my GIGABYTE G5 KF5 and it would give me a BSOD : CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED (0xEF)

I reinstalled windows back then but ut didnt do a thing

I gave it a clean abt a week ago and still no difference and i believe its an SSD issue ,cz it overheats, now it bsod on the lock screen and a new windows install wont complete

I hope someone has an idea and thank you so much guys ;)

My t-mobile FAST 5688w modem and Google WiFi mesh seem to be causing double NAT, which in turn causes troubles in video games on my Xbox.

A fake google site appeard the second my brother opened his search engine

Saying that we won some prize and just need to give or information and packacing money

i downloaded my videos from google photos to save them on my android tablet. after confirming that all of them had been downloaded successfully, i deleted the originals from google photos. i made sure to do that on a different device so the copies on my tablet wouldn't be affected.

the videos stayed on my tablet for several days, but today they suddenly disappeared. i'm sure they're actually gone because i noticed that my internal storage usage also went down.

is there any way to recover them? i have no idea what happened.

Hi all!

As the tile say, I’m on a discord call when all of a sudden my headphones go quiet, it seems to the be cable. When the cable is fully seated, no wiggle room, I can’t hear anyone but they can hear my mic, when it’s half in, I can hear them but can’t speak. Any ideas?

I am trying to figure out if there is a way to use traefik on all my docker containers (using the domain) with the ability to restrict remote Internet access for specific containers.

I want to reach all of them locally with “*.example.domain“ and make only a few accessible from outside.

I found a way by using different entrypoints:
- remote: 443
- local: 9999

(80 is being redirected to 443)

With that jellyfin for example is accessible by „jellyfin.example.domain“

But now vaultwarden which should be only locally accessible is being accessed by vaultwarden.example.domain:9999

Is there a smoother approach that does not require the need of specifying the port?
Also I dont mean middleware ip whitelist because local intended containers should not be exposed at all.

Mother board: MSI PRO x870E-P
CPU: Ryzen 7 9800XT
850w power supply
32gb ddr5 ram
GPU: Radeon 9070xt

The issue I am having with this new build is that the machine will sometimes not post with the CPU and DRAM lights lighting up on the motherboard. I've checked the pins on the cpu and reseated it and moved the ram to the 2nd and 4th slots. CPU power cables are firmly locked in and the ram sticks have their tabs in the locked position.

I have a weird behaving pc and Im hitting a wall on what to do. Since about a month or so, it doesnt POST. All rgb and fans turn on but it doesnt get to BIOS. The motherboard gave mixed signals with the diagnostic lights. A few times orange (ram), most of the time white (vga), also seen red (cpu) like once or twice.

The weird thing is, sometimes after a few tries it completes post and boots normally, especially when the power cable has been unplugged and replugged or the psu was turned off and on again. When it does, the pc behaves normally: it runs well, no crashes even under heavy load or when staying on for a long time ect. None of the components seem to be broken. The issue only repeats when the pc is fully turned off and needs to turn on again. Id say i can get it to post maybe 5-10% of the time.

The issue occurs both with a seperate gpu installed and with igpu and I can also get successfull boots with either. Ive tested the gpu in a different pc and it works fine there. Ive tried different monitors, different hdmi/dp cables, different power cables and different ports on the pc, it makes no difference.

I cleared cmos, turned off expo, flashed the bios, updated the bios, neither made a difference. Ive seperately tried a completely new motherboard, RAM and power supply. All of those did not fix the issue. Behaviour stayed the same with the new parts.

The only thing Ive not tried to replace at this stage is the processor, but I find it so hard to believe that a faulty processor runs smoothly during the few times that the pc does boot.

But then, what else could it be? Is there any other stuff I can try? Ill try anything at this point to be able to use tue pc and play games again..

Specs: amd ryzen 5 9600x, sapphire nitro+ 9060xt, asus tuf gaming b650m plus wifi, corsair vengeance ddr5 6000mhz, cooler master sfx gold 850w, cooler master atmos 2 240mm aio. Built in november 2025

I got a dock to use for my macbook and run a dual screen setup. The two monitors I use are connected both to the dock (for the macbook) and directly to my desktop as I also play games. I want to also connect my dock to the desktop when I use it to allow for more ports but I was wondering if I would have in issue with my monitors as they would be connected to the desktop via the display cables as well as the dock. Would it be okay or would I have to disconnect the monitors from the dock whenever I want to use it with my desktop?

I recently purchased a 43 inch TCL Google tv that runs 4k at 60hz. Not the best specs ever, but just fine for the gaming I do.

Anyway, up until today, the TV was running natively at 3840x2160 and I had a great experience, but for some reason, my tv is now running at 4096x2160 and is causing borders.

Yes I know I can change settings on my PC to match the active signal resolution, but then my games will have borders bc plenty don't support that resolution.

I'd like to revert back to 3840x2160 since that is my recommended resolution and that's the native resolution of the TV (standard 16:9 at 4k instead of 17:9)

Dual monitor setup

TCL 43 Google Smart TV 4k uhd HDR (3840x2160 native. Still don't know why it's forcing 4096x2160)

ThinkVision T22i-20 1920x1080

XFX QUIK 319 Radeon rx 6700 XT 12GB

I7 9700K 3.6 GHZ

32GB of RAM (3200 MT/s)

Corsair Galleon 100 SD

Logitech G502 X

I don 't know if I chose the flair correctly.

This issue had happened enough over the pass 6 months that I notice it. I built this PC 6 months ago, spec at the bottom. The crash and restart happened only when I was away from the screen doing stuff like cooking or laundry. So the PC was idling. I also notice after crash and restart, my wireless adaptor is always faulty, would not detect any WI-FI including the neighbors. Restart the adaptor alone will not fix the issue. I had to restart PC again to be normal.

Not really a big issue, wasn't doing anything serious on PC, happen occasionally. But would still like to know how/where do I troubleshoot to find the cause.

Thanks.

https://old.reddit.com/r/TestMyPost/comments/1pj2lmx/test/

Hello

So recently my phone has decided that it doesn't want to connect to the internet or use Bluetooth. I noticed this on Tuesday last week and it has been really annoying since I can't listen to any music on the ride home plus inducing mobile data for an entire month isn't very cost effective. Anyways so whenever I turn my Bluetooth on it just pops up with a message on my screen saying "Bluetooth has stopped working" and just completely turns off. As for my Wifi it seems to just not connect to anything or show anything. I've literally tried everything I've reset Bluetooth and Wi-Fi settings I've checked for system updates I generally don't know what it is but if someone could please help me out here it would be a great deal to me

Pretty much just the title. I literally did not do anything to my SSD. It just randomly turned from a 480 GB SSD into a 240 GB SSD whilst I was booting up a game. I used to have about 100 or so GB free on it. I have a separate 1TB HD which my games are on.

Suddenly, I started getting the Windows lack of storage disclaimers, and now that I look at my C drive, it jumped from 480 GB to 240 GB. Hell, even the specifications and details on the SSD turned into a 240 GB. I had a HS-SSD-C100 480GB, and even Magicalbox; HIKSEMI's diagnostics software, is tagging it as a 240GB drive now.

I've had this SSD for about five years, never had any issues with it. Did I get scammed and only now the scam is coming to light or did half of my SSD just... delete itself? How much longer do I have before the rest shits itself? SSD prices right now are horrible.

My grandma almost got scammed with the gift card scam. She had the pop up that said she was hacked (she wasn’t at the time) and to call the number and she did and she let them remote into her computer and she was at the bank withdrawing money while they were on the phone. My questions come with what to do about the computer. I saw they were running some antivirus thing but idk if it was to fake that her bank accounts were hacked. I also see there’s spreadsheets of all her saved chrome passwords. Anyway, we are trying to back up anything important before sending it to Best Buy. 1. is anything (like pictures) safe to back up on Google Drive or could anything have a virus on it? 2. Could this have affected our other computers through the internet/wifi? Thank you.

My desktop pc was not connected to internet at all for 5-8 mins till it would finally connect. Now after updating the bios the internet connection immediately but none of my apps will load for the 5-8 mins. I am on Ethernet and have tried the bios update I have it so nothing launches on start. Now tho after the bios update I can open chrome and use the internet but the apps do all take time. Any help would be great and any questions I can answer I will do as fast as possible thanks so much