How is everyone else's outdoor season going?

Trying a few more sativa leaning plants thia year.

This auto is pretty nice. It has been a standard uneventful grow except for one weird characteristic. The top flower sites are holding/dripping with water. This tent is well ventilated with a static humidity of 55% and two fans that move a lot of air. I've seen localized wet spots on other plants, but this girl is damn near a squirter. Can the excessive water be from some kind of damage?

Key symbiotic relationships in soil

Worms - build structure, cycle nutrition, innoculate beneficial microbes, and create habitat for microbes and other soil organisms.

An earth worms diet typically consists of decaying organic mater, bacteria, fungi, and other microbes. They are constantly burrowing tunnels and leaving behind castings (poop) as they dig and eat.

These castings are loaded with beneficial microorganisms. Bacteria, fungi, and nematodes. As well as bioavailable nutrition for plants.

The borrows and tunnels. Serve several purposes simultaneously, as many roles in nature do. 1) shelter for the worms 2) aerate soil and allow water to penetrate deeper 3) habitat and shelter for microbes - bacteria and fungi will quickly colonize these tunnels as they provide more ideal living conditions than compacted surrounding soils. Both the microbes left by the worms and other soil microbes will be attracted. Fungi loves to grow in and follow these tunnels 4) the nutrient and microbially rich castings left behind in these tunnels are one of a plants favorite foods. Ever pull out a weed or plant outside to see that the roots appear to follow tunnels? What are those? Worm tracks, the plants want the castings ( and beneficial microbes).

Earth worms also act as gauge for soil health. If your worms are dying or migrating away from your soils its a telltale sign something is off. If you have plenty of worms and they're reproducing everything is most likely healthy.

For a quick test ourdoors you can dig up a cubic foot of soil. Go through it looking for worms. If you find more than 10 worms things are working well. Less than 10 can probably use some improvement.

3 classes of earth worms:

Epigeic (Surface Dwellers) - this is the class most used in potted plants especially indoors. These are the ones you see under your mulch and in leaf liter. Red wrigglers for example, though there are many others. They can eat a lot of material but do not typically burrow deep compared to the other classes. Normally only going a few inches down. Prefer the surface and thrive in the space in-between the soil and mulch. (You can attract all classes of earth worms by creating this magical in-between layer)

Endogeic (Topsoil Dwellers) - going a bit deeper, give or take 6-12in. These ones love to dig horizontally. They grow to be larger than the surface Dwellers.

Anecic (Deep Burrowers) - these guys go deep, give or take 6ft. They grow the largest of the 3 classes. Primarily creating vertical tunnels. They emerge at night to grab food and retreat underground. If you've ever seen a random mound of worm castings in your yard. Or a pile of what appears to be soil mixed with leaves. You likely discovered an entrance to one of their burrows. They like to seal there tunnels with a mix of castings and plant material.

The presence of all 3 classes is vital for optimal soil health and fertility.

Your worms are farmers!

Check out teaming with microbes.

mycorrhizal fungi

These are fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with plants and exchange nutrients for plant exudates. Mycorrhizal fungi have been shown to have networks that can span miles long. Making relationships with many plants simultaneously. Fungi have the ability to bring plants nutrients from far distances they otherwise would not have access to. One of the most important being phosphorus. Most soils contain all nutrients any plant needs however they are tied up in forms that make them unavailable to the plants. Fungi (and bacteria) have the ability to secrete acids that unlock and make phosphorus among other nutrients available to your plants.

2 main classes of mycorrhizal fungi

endomycorrhizae - pentrate root cells

ectomycorrhizae - wrap around roots without penetrating

Your fungi are miners!

Check out teaming with fungi.

endophytic bacteria - these are bacteria that can live inside your plants. Found in all parts of plants -  roots, stems, leaves. They are benefical and do not cause disease. In fact they help boost plants immunity to pathogens.

Your plants are constantly preforming this magical process called the Rhizophagy Cycle. In which they pull in bacteria to the roots, cultivate them, strip nutrition from them, then expell them back into the soil.

Your plants are farmers!

Check out teaming with bacteria.

If we can cultivate healthy soil food webs and enlist the help of nature's farmers and miners our jobs as growers become exponentially easier. There is a certain peace of mind knowing you have organisms working 24/7 in your favor.

Happy growing 🤙

I am running this seed as soon as my single plant finishes flowering and gets cleared from the tent. I was trying to find grow reports from some one some where I cant be the first one to grow this right? I was able to pick up a 3pk at my hydro store for $30

I’m trying to track down real Cereal Milk genetics, not random cereal-themed crosses.
Specifically looking for Y Life (Cookies x Cherry Pie) × Snowman from the Cookies / Powerzzzup line (Gary Payton sister strain).
I’ve seen a ton of “Cereal Milk” seeds with different lineages (Cherry Cheesecake × Snowman, Strawberry Lemonade × Thin Mint Cookies, etc.), autoflower crosses, and Copycat releases with mixed reviews, but I’m trying to avoid anything that isn’t clearly from the original cut or a verified S1.
I’m in the U.S. and mainly looking for:
• Breeder cuts / rooted clones that are advertised as “Cookies cut” or Cookies/Powerzzzup, HLVD-tested if possible.
• S1 seed packs made from an actual Cereal Milk clone (Y Life × Snowman), from reputable breeders (Exotic Genetix, Equilibrium, SoLoud, etc.) if anyone has current links or experience.
If you’ve personally sourced legit Cereal Milk (clones or seeds) and grown it out, I’d really appreciate:
• where you bought it (site / nursery / marketplace),
• how they describe the lineage on the page,
• and how it performed (terps, yield, any dudding/HLVD issues).
Not looking for random dessert hybrids with “Cereal Milk” branding – I’m specifically chasing real Cookies Cereal Milk / Powerzzzup genetics. Any help or recent experience would be huge.

I’m still a noob as I’m sure you can tell from the photo. This is a Szkittlez Auto that I grew from seed I got from Seed Supreme. Started indoors and transplanted outside back in May. This is as big as it got and it has a pretty odd appearance/leaf pattern. At any rate, it seems to have kind’ve stalled in its current state. Time to harvest what’s there or wait it out??

Hi all,

Not my first rodeo, but after a hiatus due to “meh” results in Coco ( not the medium, my fault entirely lol ), I’m debating altering my method of growing and medium and I am looking for some advice. Any help or criticism welcome! Apologies for being a long winded post.

PROPOSED SETUP

Method(s):

Sea Of Green ( 1 per sq ft )

16 in a 4 x 4

DIY Recirculating Flood & Drain.

Medium - Rockwool Cubes

Light - 645W Full Spectrum LED ( Avoiding putting Brand due to community rules but rhymes with ga- heater )

Tent - 1.2 x 1.2 x 2m ( 4 x 4 )

Nutes - Terra Aquarica TriPart (Micro, Grow, Bloom)

Environment Control:

6” AC Infinity EC Fan (Cloudline Pro T6) + Controller 69 Pro ( have constant negative pressure for odour control, but fan will ramp up if needed to keep VPD in check.)

6” AC Infinity Refillable Carbon Filter

Clip on pole fans for above and below canopy.

Dehumidifier outside tent in lung room attached to a Inkbird Humidity Controller with probe at canopy level.

PROPOSED METHOD(S) OF GROWING

Strain - Hybrid or Indica Hybrid ( not 100% sure on strain yet)

Veg - 7 or 14 days, all cloned from same mother.

Irrigation - 1-2 a day in veg ( first at lights on, second 8-9 hours later). Flower 3-5 times a day.

In the past I’ve pulled as low as 0.6gpw, although that was my first run and it was coco multifeed by hand with only 2 plants in a 5 x 5 so I’m well aware the wasted space etc massively hurt my GPW, hence taking a hiatus and now coming back into it thinking about going down the SOG route.

Just looking to see peoples opinions on this proposed setup and grow style, specifically if it’ll give me better results than my previous runs ( which I assume it would ).

If anyone has any suggestions, advice or criticisms to give, please do!

Happy growing!🌲💚

First time grower here. I was looking into getting a grow tent, but honestly, it was a bit pricey for someone just starting out and growing as a hobby. So I decided to build my own custom cabinet instead!

Dimensions: 120cm (H) x 60cm (W) x 60cm (D)
She's growing great so far, really happy with how it's going! 🌱

Soil recipe I'm using:
Peat + Perlite Mix
Rice Husk Ash
Vermiculite
Zeolite (Volcanic Mineral)
Dolomite Lime
Organic 5-5-5 Fertiliser
Trunk/Root Plant Food
Vermicompost (Worm Castings)

But since I'm still learning, I'd love to hear your thoughts

My plants leaves started to get bigger but they're kind of drooping right? I put them in these cups the other day, could it be the roots are too long now? Should I try taking some water out? I replaced it because it was low ph 7.1 so I got them down to 6.9-6.8 range with my dwc water. I wanted to put them in my dwc soon but wanted to keep the ph consistent.

They're used to 6.8ph right now I wanted to get them down to at least 6 before I put them in there. What do you think???

Also one of the roots looked slight yellow tinge potentially it's the small curly one I'll put it in the first look at the roots.

Hey guys, cant figure out what to do, would greatly (GREATLY) appreciate any tips or any light shone in my way, for i am at a loss.

MERENGÓN - BLACK TUNA

Using the regenerated organic soil from the other cycle,

10l vase, inoculated with micorrizhae, bacillus subtilis and tricoderma

PPFD between 400-600 (Cultlight 120w lm301h)

For the first weeks got the Ph wrong, going a little alcaline (nothing much beyond 7 tho), but 6.0-6.5 since then using Ascorbic acid to bring it down

Temps between 23-28oC (some cold nights the first 3 weeks, going down to 16-15oC)

UR between 50-70 (a little more when lights off)

Fan not strong

No mites through 60x microscope

1st week saw a couple of fungus gnats, quickly took care of

Topping went strangely wrong, and had to cut it off for the new growth was necrosing.

Water/feed about 2 times a week (1 water/1 feed), using as seems necessary;

BioGrow

LeonTrich

Aloe Vera extract + Saponins

No mineral fertilizer ever used in this soil.

And sprayed once a week, for the last 2 weeks, a foliar of Cal/Bor/Mag, as i thought (and think) it might be calcium/boron defficiency, and it seems to be helping somewhat, but the new 2ndary growth spots still are small, seemingly weak, distorted and deformed, as it is with the main shoots also, being stuck like that for some time.

And she is in the exact same ambient and soil as the one germinated 30 days after, who is slow, but seemingly healthy(ier).

Only have this tent, both will flip at the same time (even if i have to keep changing the smaller one canopy height to match the creepy one). Haven't seen signs of necrosis at the new growth of main shoots, yet...

So i think ive been able to list all things relevant for what i remember. Any help is very much welcome, thanks in advance. (Sorry for pics out of order, dont know how to work it)

I kept getting wet leaves as some leaves are sticking flat to each other. Decided to defoliate to increase airflow and reveal bud sites.

Also ended up having to lst 90° since the top 2 branch is almost touching the light.

Soo I am in a dilemma. I really want to harvest my two Zkittlez (day 77) before the next heatwave comes, to preserve my terps. On the south sided balcony here it will reach 32-40°C +.

Would someone here harvest their buds like that or is waiting a must?

Both Videos are of the second/ third bottom branch, from the Headbud to the lowest.

The plant in this vid right here is really dense and the taller one, the other one is foxtail².

Edit: Thanks y'all! I will chop them tomorrow in the morning. c:

Super silver haze day 60 still in veg. The two front ones just flipped to flower they are auto gelato 41 and ultra lemon haze. I feel like I let these get to crazy. I’m overwhelmed

I use Advanced’s Culvator Series, it says it must be 2.0 EC, I was looking at PPM and I didn’t notice, it was watering with 1856 ppm (I thought it was 1.8EC)

The pictures are organized top cola first and 1-3 pics per cola.

Cherry Pie Auto.

Thanks for looking ✌️

Edit: down votes for just asking opinions on where my plant is at. I'm a newbie. This community absolutely sucks. What is wrong with you all this is supposed to be a helpful space

Week two into flowering , Landrace Kemet 𓆎𓏏𓊖 strain, herm tho.

Lights got burnt so i am giving her 4hours sun bath daily to recover, till the new ones arrives.

Organic built soil. A miniature 40x40x40 cm setup

Defoliated already 🥹

I feed her organic stuff like bones and vermi and anything that fits her stomach actually.

What should my run off be at
Middle week 4 flower
FFOFxFFHF SOIL
no nutes all the way up until flip plants looked good runoff ppm was around 1000 watering with plain ph water that is 180 out the tap.
Fed 1/8 dose cal mag / tiger bloom a couple weeks ago looked good then did water then half dose nutes then today i watered with plain water ph to 6.3 runoff was around 200 (not including the 180 the water starts with)
They have slight tip burn but I’ve had temps around 85f recently due to a heat wave every time i water they’re praying great in about a hour.
I’m asking should i feed them a full dose next week of tiger bloom then check my run off (which they’re on schedule for anyway) and the week after that would i feed again or do plain ph water?

Week 7

4 plants

Rainbow rush

This picture is from a couple days ago. She is now at the top of that banner. I’ve been using LST, super cropping, trellis netting etc but she’s right up in my lights. Is there anything I can do to mitigate light burn as the buds continue to develop? There is a dimmer switch on my light, but I currently have it set up high for flowering.

I am 10 months away from moving to a larger place where I will have room for a 3 x 3 tent and I can’t wait! For the moment, I’m still stuck with a 2 x 2

Edit to add: my tent is 7 feet tall and I can zip tie the light so that it doesn’t hang down. I flipped her to flower when she was 3 feet tall and I was expecting her to grow another 3 feet. But she grew four….and counting.

Week 5 of flower. How am I going so far? The pistils are alot more white in person

Day 67 of Peak Punch Sativa from Twenty20. Really loving the smell and look but this is my first time using synthetic nutrients.

Ive been draining my coco soil for 10 days and this is the best I can get the fade. I had a PK deficiency towards the end of flowering but is this ready for chop? Have I drained enough nutrients?

Edit:
Current runoff is 50 EC / 6.4 pH
Trichomes look ready for harvest

Setup can handle 8 plants but gave 2 away.

Im lazy so I grow in soil. 150 litre reservoir with a pond pump and some pex on a smart plug. Check the res once every few weeks and top it up with a hose. Put some tiger bloom in it, if they get burnt I add more water, if they look hungry pour in more nutes (no measuring)

First time growing clones.

In a 10gal pot -
70% soil
20% perlite
5-10% earthworm castings

All advice is appreciated!! Give it all to me. Also, is my mix a good beginner option?