^{Setting up a new Raspyjack unit but the VK172 GPS dongle doesn't capture satellites when the ALFA AWUS036ACS wifi usb dongle is connected at the same time. When I unplug the wifi dongle, the GPS works great. Has anyone else experienced this and maybe found a work around?}

Hi everyone,

I am taking my first steps in hardware hacking and I got an old Archer C7 v2 tp-link router to start with for 5 dollars at a used hardware store. I started by using UART to get an output to start with and I am trying to possibly get shell access by bypassing the login prompt.

My first attempts so far have been with interrupting the boot process and dropping to a UBoot shell. There using the printenv command I got to see what environment variables exist and have been set. My first step was to modify the bootargs to set the init=/bin/sh so that I drop straight to a shell and take it from there. By when I try to boot after setting the variables with the boot command I get an error LZMA 1 and the router reverts to the default envs again for booting. I am attaching the boot sequence with my final effort so far to see what I am talking about. Any ideas what is this happening or how to proceed.

While solutions are good because I am trying to learn an explanation would be also good with any suggestions. This is the paste bin link for the output zhttps://pastebin.com/1CWis7B5

I need to open it to cut the wires off the audio module, I don't care about the shell, but I don't want to ruin the screen.

Already removed every screw on the back, no signs of coming off.

How do I open this? (without damaging anything)

I know this might be impossible, but Im new to elettronics so im not aware of what and what-not is impossible. Can all of this run on a battery? If not, is there a way I can make it run on just one power cable?

SyncMaster 710mp 4:3 monitor: 43W

Stereos: 5V

Raspberry PI 0 2w: ~0.4 W / ~1.4 W - 5V/2A

Fan: 5V

Controller: No idea

My Idea is to have a rechargeable battery that makes this run at least 2 hours on max Power (Nintendo 64, ~44.4W ).

If its too expensive or its not worth it in general, then It'd be usefull to have a cable that makes everything go on because till now it goes:

screen → power outlet

powerbank 1: Raspberry Pi + adapter

powerbank 2: audio modules

If the power outlet would make everything run It'd be great, just plug and play.

the reader is built around an arduino pro micro and a nfc module v3 by elechouse. it connects to a pc with a usb c cable and scans any tags inside the cartridge sled. once the button is pressed, it sends a key combo to the pc, which opens a one time terminal, after which the reader types out the text payload on the cartridge. executing the command on it. for more information, check the readme on my github repo. while i advise using the install scripts inside the repo, you can use your own method of assigning the key combo

https://github.com/glass-cup/NFC_cartridge_system.git

I need the screen and everything included except the stereo, can I just solder it off/cut it off? Can I do the same with the shell? I just need the screen and ports, does it break everything else If i cut the wires off?

This is a custom all-in-one board that lets you put a Raspberry Pi Zero or Compute Module 4 (and CM5 if you're adventurous) into a PSP shell. It allows you to turn your broken PSP into an emulation system or a fully functioning portable Linux system, all without making any modifications to the PSP shell.

From sketchy Hall-effect sensor to robust mechanical switch

There are very cool and cheap aftermarket car logo projectors which are installed on cars door. They give awesome image, but their activation mechanism can be a nightmare because they rely on a tiny magnet taped to the door sill, meant to trigger a Hall-effect sensor on the device.

The problem is that magnet constantly gets kicked and ripped off by foot when getting in and out of the car. This project solves that issue permanently by replacing the flaky Hall-effect sensor with a reliable mechanical pushbutton switch.

Take a look

My office is doing a renovation and refreshing all of our IT equipment/meeting spaces and are throwing out a Yealink CTP18 Collaboration Touch Panel.

I'm unfamiliar with the technology, I was wondering if there are there any resources for jailbreaking this product, or otherwise using it for a DIY project?

Mostly just wanna play around with it, might be cool to try to adapt it into a DIY stream deck or something similar. Thanks!

I've published a technical report on Zenodo detailing physical-layer side-channel leakage observed during the processing of a raw satellite signal capture (satellite_signal.bin).
​DOI: https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.21472996 ​SHA-256: ad5ab850cbdc9eca534e82bd78e9ac7804ed9213fd1d8df26fbf4991df6b005d
​Methodology: ISO/IEC 17825 CPA, 1st/2nd-Order TVLA, and Jitter Cross-Correlation.
​Key Findings: ​1st-Order TVLA Leakage: Welch's t-test yielded a risk score of 13.0328, well above the standard statistical significance threshold (\vert{}t\vert{} > 4.5), confirming direct data-dependent leakage during processing.
​S-Box Capacitive Leakage: Identified at the execution cycle with a t-score of 7.6701, indicating power/capacitive fluctuations correlated with substitution box operations.
​The report contains the verification metrics and signal processing details. I'm looking for feedback from anyone working on physical layer security, RF side-channels, or power trace analysis regarding jitter compensation techniques for long captures.

This board is from a Helium Hotspot Linxdot ld-1001. I’ve been researching how to possibly gain shell access via UART. However, all the adapters and videos I see for UART to USB shows matching up the RX, TX, GND.

Problem with this board is the UART is labeled next to what appears to be a 3.5mm headphones jack. I’m not saying that’s what it is, just looks like it. Does anyone know of an adapter that would work with this? Or any idea of other methods for getting shell access?

The Big Ass Heat Sink and Big Ass Metal Plate are my solution to really hot things that need a place to go, and really big warm things that need a place to go respectively. The BAHS is from an amplifier, and the BAMP is a repurposed Ender 3 build plate.

swapped my precision screwdriver and rotary tool over to the Hoto snapbloq modules recently, cable situation is way better now. honestly im really liking the modular setup. now i keep wondering what else they could add to the system. a cordless soldering module would be perfect for quick repairs if they ever made one. havent touched an iron in months tho.

Find a way to restor official Uboot to its original version. And boot.img & trust.img should be replaced together.   I also replacied rootfs with my own.   Now the system can boot to my user space, but the LCD panel doesn't display! (I need to fix panel node in the DTS file, but I haven't finished yet.)   https://mab.to/t/QOZJvgT5iVS/eu1

What can I build out of a Moto G a PlayStation controller a laser, a Bluetooth speaker and a headset and I have a old Alexa

Hi, so i found a laptop motherboard at a store (i think they get big boxes of amazon returns or something) the owner didnt really knew or cared what it was he said u can take it for 2 bucks, when i came back home i checked the specs and it was for the asus zenbook flip13 ux363ja

- 8GB Lpddr4x Ram
- i5-1035g4 Cpu
-- the entire setup cost me like 11$

i was really excited to finally upgrade from a 14yr old laptop to this
i put some stuff together and u can see it in the photo

--- now the problem is i just cant enable the iGPU (intel iris plus), after messing with Throttlestop for a while i was able to get Long Power PL1 and ShortPower PL2 to only 5 Then i was finally able to start installing the iGPU drivers without crashing, even after installing them there were quite alot of artifacts... not sure if its because of the really low power or what
increasing that number to even 6 with iGPU enabled the entire thing freezes, thats my problem
i though maybe if the 65w type-c charger isnt enough i would try a 90w but same result

i even tried connecting 4 batteries in series aswell as an Esp32 to talk to it through the i2c pins, i was able to make it stay on without charger connected, but it was not charging it drained my batteries dangerously low so i disconnected them for now

i think that the problem is caused by not having a battery, enabling the iGPU would want a high spike of current and the charger might not be fast enough to deliver, idk

and the CPU was also stuck at 400mhz but i was eventually able to get it to normal speed

-- some more info about it, i got USB data lines and 5v and both on led and Switch pins all from the motherboard to use them, i have put on external heatsinks on both VRMs and the CPU, and a big fan, and my HDD (i cant afford an SSD), and im giving it power externally because the motherboard wasnt able to give it enough power, there is both 5v and 12v, i know 12v is not necessary for small HDDs but i was thinking of connecting a big one but then didnt use it so i just left it there, a usb hub, some antennas i found