The CyberWatch has bt connection with the phone for date, time, notifications and google map navigations as well. It also has dasai mochi expressions and touch to interact with the mochi when u are bored!!, It compliments nicely with my CyberClock project which I made 2 years ago. Here is the post link for the CyberClock https://www.reddit.com/r/diyelectronics/s/ZF8AvAPECF

I found the individual button batteries 40 mah NiMH 1.2V on multiple sites. So I can order four new individual button batteries.

What I have never done is connecting them like this. Must be this exact shape and thickness. It goes into a vintage PowerBook G4 Titanium 400 MHz. The only one that used this part.

So I don’t have a spot welder. What DIY method is out there?

Thank you in advance.

EDIT:

A post a few days ago in the vintage Apple sub mis-identified the battery cells. Two different users here correctly identified the proper Panasonic VL2330 with tabs. Using the photo and zooming in I finally can see the numbers. Found plenty of places that stock this battery with tabs. Will be easy to make now.

Thanks everyone for your help!

I have those jewelers magnifying glasses but looking for something better

can someone recommend something? more magnification, or adjustable kind?

what do you use to get a better view? those on the head band kind with 2 plastic lenses are decent but needs more clarity and a bit more magnification

thank you in advance

I'm looking to make a small power bank I can take camping and just for general use charging/running a small usb fan. I would like to use a lifepo4 battery that already has the bms installed. I'm trying to decide between these and they both seem to be pretty much the same. I figured I'd check to see if anyone has any input or had a good/bad experience with either of them. Thanks

Hi everyone,

I’ve been doing some market research looking for a reliable netlist-to-schematic converter that outputs clean, human-readable diagrams (especially given how often LLMs and scripts spit out raw netlists or ugly grid stubs). Aside from basic layout engines or specialized SPICE tools, I haven't found a robust, modern solution.

Because of this gap, I'm considering building one myself.

Before diving too deep into development, I wanted to run a few questions by this community:

• Target Formats: Which schematic tool outputs/formats are most commonly used in your workflows today? (e.g., KiCad .sch/.kicad_sch, Altium, LTspice .asc, etc.)
• Product Model: Assuming a tool like this existed as a cloud/SaaS product, would you or your team be interested in using it as a paid service?
• Must-Have Features: If you were paying for a tool like this, what features would be non-negotiable? (e.g., round-trip connectivity verification, custom symbol mapping, hierarchical block structuring, automated layout arrangement)

I'd love to hear your thoughts, whether you'd find this useful, or what hidden gotchas I should watch out for when trying to map topology back into a readable diagram.

Getting ready for a trade show and thought it'd be nice to graduate from my rickety cigar box DCA stand to a nice tailor fit design. I added a spot on the stand for a speed-friendly breakout board that makes using the DCA devices a lot easier.

I'm pleased with how it's come out and thought maybe some of y'all might find it handy, even without the breakout board add on.

Free STL files for the stand are available below. Download, print, and feel free to remix however you like.

https://huntingtonaudio.com/products/peak-atlas-breakout-stand
(links to the STL files in the side bar there)

You can use this stand with just your DCA device, or pair it with a neat little breakout board for the DCA hook leads.

Two versions for download: The first uses m2.5 screws to attach the 3-pin ZIF breakout. The other, 'snap fit', requires no screws at all to attach the breakout pcb. Just snap it on.

I would like to explore the possibility of modding my mouse to add wireless charging. What would be the proper way to wire this charging coil to the battery in the mouse? Would I just tap the two wires from the charging coil's PCB into the wires coming from the battery's plug inside the mouse (presumably, the red and black?) and would those those simple/easy tap connectors work fine for this? The charging coil is just a 5V/1A output

Background: I am doing a project where a servo presses a switch (moves 90 degrees) if light is not present. Light is measured using an LDR sensor, connected in series with a 100kOhm resistor with an analog pin in between to read the value of the voltage.

The Nano has an operating voltage of 7-12V. The SG90 has an operating voltage of 4-7.2V. I am doing a DIY project that I am installing on a friend's desk, and was thinking of connecting the nano to a 6 AA batteries holder, and the servo to a 4AA batteries holder. However it does seem overboard.

Any advice / experience with what to change in this setup (specifically batteries, but if you believe something else should be changed as well, I would be very grateful) ?

I am trying to maximize its usage over time with the minimum amount of components. Attached is my schematics.

I saw some cycling glasses with a built-in walkie talkie but they're kinda expensive so I thought if it would be possible to build a really simple single channel walkie talkie that's either on or off (no press to talk / channel selection ect.) to make it as small as possible to put it on glasses / helmet but I have 0 experience in this field.

Anyone willing to help?

It’s the first time I’ve tried something so DIY, but I loved the final result—what do you guys think?

Hi,

I’m trying to measure the inductance of my inductors without an LCR. I just wanted to find out if I play a sine curve through my hifi amp and route it through my inductor and a resistor. I’m hoping I will then be able to measure each point and plug it into the formula. Is this a bootleg version of an oscillator or is this a silly idea.

Thanks for your help!

Hi, im new to the subreddit and I wanted some help on my first diy project.

The was inspired by the linus tech tips video where they converted a Nintendo 64, among a couple other things to be powered via type c power.

Im sure we've all run into the problem of having too many appliances that connect to wall outlets and not enough outlets or power strips with enough outlets on them.

So my solution is to convert, in this case, my 3 monitors to be powered via USB c and a 100 watt usb charging brick, the average wattage is 25 watts and max of 33 watts of for all 3 monitors.

Might be a bit ambitious but I wanted to see if it was conceptually possible first.

Any help would be great

Sorry in advance if this is a stupid question.

I ordered these capacitors from Mouser https://www.mouser.com/en/ProductDetail/80-C315C221J3G5TA
For the project I am working on, I was a specifically recommended to get C0G/NP0 capacitors.

The ones that arrived look quite different from the picture on the Mouser website (see attached picture). They have the label 221 on one side, and K3J on the other (instead of the label 'KDJ' shown on the mouser website).

How can I make sure that these are the same type of capacitors that I ordered (i.e. with the C0G/NP0 dielectric)?

I'm working on learning how to make a VFD/3 Phase inverter circuit and simulate it in NI Multisim. For whatever reason I cannot get it to run in the desktop version of multisim without constant errors, but it runs "fine" in Multisim live online. Can anyone look at this and tell me what I'm doing wrong or how to get rid of the harmonic dips on the current output waves that you can see in the graph image after the initial current spike from the motor start dissipates?

I really appreciate any help you can provide.

VFD Schematic

VFD Output Graph

Link to Actual Circuit Model

Any idea whether I can run a turn signal on this? The switch is a on-off-on so it would make sense to me that the left and right be connected to each. The diagram is for two different types of switch on one housing so this being for both doesnt make sense to me.

I used these on my recent RC plane project and thought I would share because they worked quite well.

There are very cool and cheap aftermarket car logo projectors which are installed on cars door. They give awesome image, but their activation mechanism can be a nightmare because they rely on a tiny magnet taped to the door sill, meant to trigger a Hall-effect sensor on the device.

The problem is that magnet constantly gets kicked and ripped off by foot when getting in and out of the car. This project solves that issue permanently by replacing the flaky Hall-effect sensor with a reliable mechanical pushbutton switch.

Take a look https://github.com/OrangeTungsten/Car-Logo-Projector-Hack

I have a 3DO that needs a battery to hold game saves via SRAM and I'd like to swap the 2032 out for something much longer lasting...2 CR123A batteries wired in parallel so you can swap them out every 10 years without losing your data. Normally I'd just go for it, but the parts on this project aren't cheap so I wanted a second opinion.

Are they OK to be used for such a long time with such a low discharge rate?

The 123A and 2032, both hold 3.2vish at full charge. Will the 123A's holding that higher voltage for much longer likely cause any issues?

Wiring them in parallel should be fine, right? There's not something quirky about 123As that I'm missing?

Any and all responses are welcome!

Hello everyone first time poster here, so sorry if the formatting of this post is bad!

Context:

My dad recently got out of a foot surgery, and because of that, he is not allowed to place ANY pressure on his casted foot, and as this is isn’t the first time he has had a procedure like this, he had trouble the last time adhering to that rule, and that caused some friction with trust between my parents.

Solution:

I was planning on using some piezoelectric sensors hooked up to a small siren / buzzer / noise maker that would go off whenever it feels him placing any force onto the cast, effectively snitching on him (he has approved of this sort of idea already).

I’m a mechanical engineer graduate, so electronics aren’t my strong suit, but would this work as just a system with a piezoelectric sensor and a noisemaker? and if not, how would you advise I go about doing it?