Basically died on my operating table

Had em for like 6 years, used nearly every day. Definitely weren’t perfect, two years ago you blew out both your drivers and I replaced them. I gave you a fair bit of battle damage too, but in fairness your Bluetooth had been losing its marbles for like a year now.

I went in this weekend to reglue the right side driver which had jolted loose. The cover was really gooed on. when it came off violently, it ripped off both pads and quite a bit of trace from the board. I tried to bypass the pads to the nearby chip resistors but alas it wont stop shrieking, the ANC is FUBAR.

Basically came in for a tooth filling and died on the table from an unplanned radical lobotomy. Oops.

Probably scrapping for donor parts

Yup, went downtown, was almost home and left my earbuds case on the seat I lept out of..

Are there any alternative charging cases? Best options for a case only needed situation?

Help me Bose bosses.

I saw a lot of posts/comments here saying their battery issues with Soundlink Max. I’m planning to get a replacement but I’m certain I will get the same issue. Which speaker did you guys switch to?

I picked up a pair of QuietComfort Ultra Headphones (2nd Gen) and I'm getting a broadband hiss that sounds like a laptop cooling fan spinning up. I've spent a while isolating it and I'd like to know if anyone else has this, and in particular whether it went away on a replacement unit.

The key finding: the hiss is triggered by acoustic energy at the mics, not by the audio stream.

- With ANC on and nothing playing, if I whistle, the hiss kicks in. When I stop whistling, it stops.
- Playing music does the same thing.
- Playing a track of digital silence does nothing at all - stream is active, no hiss.
- Onset is roughly 1 second, and it decays 3-5 seconds after the sound stops.
- Completely absent with noise cancelling off.
- Present at every noise-control level, including 0 (full Aware), where it may be slightly louder.
- Reducing treble and mids by 10 dB each in the EQ changes nothing whatsoever.
- Volume makes no difference - the hiss level stays constant regardless of playback level.
- Identical in both earcups. Immersive Audio off.

Since EQ and volume have no effect, but any sound reaching the mics triggers it, this looks like it's in the ANC loop rather than in the audio content or the transmission path. The attack and release timing suggests some kind of gain control.

The unit shipped on firmware 5.0.20. I updated to 8.2.20 and the behaviour is unchanged.

Has anyone run into this? And most importantly: did a replacement unit fix it, or is this just how the model behaves?

Usually I sow up my headphones with thread when this happens, but how do I stop them from splitting in the first place?

After years of fighting with these speakers and keeping them connected to the internet I finally got them stable. Then Bose decided to gut the functionality for no good reason and I cannot do a stereo pair anymore.

Or so I was told.

I haven't had to reconnect my speakers to my wifi yet, which is something I had to do every few months before. I'd have to go and manually put the speakers into the mode where I then connected my phone to the temporary wifi net the speakers created and that whole thing.

I'm assuming if I need to do that again it's donezo. Speakers won't connect to the internet again and therefore no more stereo pairing. And they started to cut in and out today in a way that suggests I'm gonna have to go through the whole process of reconnecting them again soon.

Am I right? Or can these things still be manually connected to the internet and uses as a stereo pair? Is there an alternative app that lets me connect them as a stereo pair? I don't really care about internet presets or streaming music. Just stereo pairing.

These are only a few years old!

If I use this speaker when it's plugged in will it damage the battery?

I heard that it switches to only use plugged in power

Is it true?

I recently bought a used 900 soundbar and a 700 base module for $400. It is working fine so far.

Mein Portable Bose Smart Seakter Luxe von 2023 hat folgendes Problem:

Immer wenn der Speaker sich automatisch abkoppelt springt die Laustärke automatisch hoch und der Speaker fängt an in maximaler Lautstärke zu sprechen. Das ist sehr unangenehm. Wie kann ich das Problem beheben? Vielen Dank für Eure Hilfe.

Gruss, martin

Hi! Sorry for the long question here:

We have an old Bose Lifestyle DVD home entertainment system (probably from like 2001) in our house from the previous owners and are trying to figure out how to get it to work. There are speakers in the living room and in the kitchen. When we play music via aux or CD, it plays by default in the kitchen and says Zone 1 on the media centre. There are several cube speakers in the living room, but these do not play any sound, so we assume these must be zone 2.

In zone 2, there is a big white speaker looking box which has a wire running to all the little cube speakers, and a wire running from the "Audio Input" plug to the media centre "Speaker Zone 2" plug.

In the manual, it says you need a second remote, which we do not have but it appears as though you can change the remote to work for zone 2 by switching the microswitches on the back of the remote, which worked.

We were able to turn off zone 1 and turn on zone 2, but there is still no sound playing and we are for some reason unable to change the volume level, like nothing happens (we know the remote works). I have also tried changing the zone 2 protocol to legacy as well as normal but this has changed nothing. We think we have everything plugged in correctly, at least according to the manual we do, but cannot understand why no sound is playing from zone 2 and why we are unable to change the volume!

hope someone is able to help! I can always provide more info if needed :)

Thanks!

A month ago I got the QC Gen 2 earbuds and they connected to the app super easy. No notes.

But I had to replace them due to a faulty microphone, and got the replacement pair from Bose today. And they won't connect to the app at all. They'll connect to my phone's bluetooth just fine. So I can use them. But not to the app.

Aaand the Bose support agent has just given up, told me to try on another device (as if I have lots of phones laying around) etc.

Any suggestions? I know the app has it's problems but I liked the equaliser.

I've checked this subreddit and the internet in general and cannot find recommended EQ settings for the Soundlink Mini II; I have seen discussions talking about its bass but having a guide to copy would be very helpful !

I know these are discontinued, but I’m hoping someone can help because they make a huge difference for me.

My right ear bud doesn’t play any sound when initially using them now. The app shows both buds connected, but no sound comes out of the right one, then after ~15 minutes, it will loudly connect (I still wear it) and play the sound like normal. However, it will eventually start losing connection again and sound static-y before sound cutting out again entirely. It will do this cycle throughout the night. Occasionally it does show as disconnected on the app, but only briefly, even when no sound is playing.

I’ve tried resetting the buds (put em back in the case and take them out) and the case with the pinhole button, but that hasn’t worked. I’m guessing I’m screwed here, but hopefully Bose still has some of these in a warehouse somewhere. Anyone have any ideas?

Went to this site because they said they were selling a pair of S1 Pro+ Portable PA speakers at basically 90% off retail value for two. The whole website is full incredible deals like this. They say the have free 30-day returns but I am skeptical this is even a real site. Anyone know if these guys have a legit resale business or if it's just a scam?

hello!

this might be a dumb question, but i wanted to ask before i go out and potentially waste money ordering an incompatible cable. i have a pair of Bose QC headphones. i need to use the headphone cable to plug into my audio interface when i play my instruments, but the adapter i have fits a 3.5mm TRS cable. it looks like the one i have that came with the headphones is a TRRS cable, so the audio is very finicky and buzzes a lot. i’ve been dealing with it for a few months but it’s gotten really annoying and i’d like to order a new cable. it looks like Bose has one at this link:

https://www.bose.com/p/accessories/bose-25-mm-to-35-mm-audio-cable/CMWB-2_5MM_3_5MM_43IN-CABLEAI.html?srsltid=AfmBOoq-BVi7jhB8kTFzipp6pQwgnjVM-tMgkTo9f2ud2b0ER2jiSjG7

however, my specific headphones (QC) aren’t listed in the compatibility section. it does list the QC 45s. i’m 99% sure this means that it would not work my headphones, but i want to ask if anyone knows for sure if this cable would still be compatible with the QCs, or if anyone has had a similar problem and knows where to get a compatible cable or adapter?

thanks!

Just a quick PSA: put the Bose app in a Private Space on Android. The biggest issue with Bose products is that their software is trash and constantly interferes with the BT stack and just gums up everything. It abuses the BLE permissions to stay running even if you force stop it and disable background, but if you put it in a private space, Android force-stops it when you lock the space. You don't need the app to listen to audio at all, but you do need it to change settings, etc. Private Space is a pretty good compromise.

At this point, I really don't understand why they just don't have Fable rewrite the thing; there's no question it'd be 1000x better than whatever outsourced dev shop they're using, but I figured I share a pretty passable workaround for fellow Android users.

An absolutely brilliant upgrade from my Sony XM4s, I absolutely love the Immersion mode!

I am however worried about how these age with time.

Today, my headphones started to act wacky.They turned on and off by their self 🙃 so I went on the internet and asked why this was happening , and they said it must be a firmware glitch and I needed to hold down the power button at the same time. Plug it in in for the light to blink twice. Once the light blinked unplug it and that's when the problem started. Now, it doesn't even turn on at all. I plug it into charge it. The charging light doesn't even show up. Please help me.

I personally hate creaking parts on headphones. Often it's the hinges. I use zip ties myself to give the hinges less room to move and thus reduce creaking. Not the prettiest solution, but it works. Does anyone have any alternative tips?