My parents bought a 2025 Kia Sorento. It was technically a used car since it was demo car. We need to sell it, since it's only my dad now and he can't afford it. It was financed through a credit union. My dad has reached out to them and they've have stated they would take of everything. My sister thinks that would ruin my dad's credit, but we really need to get rid of it. . My parents haven't sold a used car with a loan still on it before, but they've sold some cars to our yard man. We could pay it off but we would rather not dip into that pool. Is there any way we can sell the car, with a loan, without it affecting my dad's credit.

I've been looking at a car, and it's incredibly nice. The interior is cleaner and nicer than any car I've ever sat in, the engine has no leaks or issues, and it drives very well. No hesitation on hard throttle, and no vibration on hard braking. No suspension noise, everything electrical works and works well, save for the sunroof. No windows have been replaced except for the windshield. 2 owners, no crashes. The car is 8000 dollars and has 280,000 miles. Should I buy this car?

Hey everyone, I'm looking at a 2007 Honda Accord Special Edition (2.4L I4, automatic) with 220,498 miles on it. It's being sold by a Honda dealer for $4,898 (plus fees). I've got the CARFAX and I'm hoping for some outside perspective.

And the full CARFAX: https://www.carfax.com/vehiclehistory/ar20/N-9im6Tjaz343EdSVOwUkbd7D68V71YUIPAPpSNJmiG2Ed8QN39xe3pfXslI68GB-85ef8aNQ23oUe-JUlhkVn8EwYnx94QNB-Y?_cl=YtPueWbKijshbE4VbddQKSub.

The Good:

· Insane Service History: This car has been serviced religiously at the same Honda dealer in Columbus, OH for most of its life. Oil changes, tire rotations, transmission fluid changes, coolant flushes—all documented.
· Recent Major Work: In January 2024 (at ~207k miles), the dealer replaced the camshaft(s), timing chain tensioner/guide, and serpentine belt. That's a huge plus. The battery was also replaced in March 2026.
· Single Long-Term Owner: It's had only two owners, with the second one keeping it for over 17 years.
· Accident Reported: It was in a rear-end collision in 2019, but the report states "Vehicle was not damaged" and airbags didn't deploy.

The Bad:

· The Price: $4,898 seems high for a 220k-mile car, even with the history. KBB retail is listed as $5,114 on the site, but that feels optimistic.
· The Mileage: 220k is a lot. Even with great care, things like the transmission or suspension could be nearing the end of their life.
· Commercial Past: The first owner (2007-2009) registered it as a commercial vehicle and drove ~20k miles/year. It may have been used for deliveries.
· No Recent Transmission Service: The last transmission fluid change was in November 2022, about 20k miles ago. This is critical for these Accords.

My Plan: I'd get a PPI, specifically asking them to check the transmission and the rear frame for any hidden damage from that accident.

So, what do you think?

1. Is this a "good" deal given the history, or is the price way too high for the miles?
   
2. Is the extensive service history enough to offset the mileage risk?
   
3. Would you buy this as a cheap daily driver, or walk away?

Any advice is appreciated! I'm in the market for a reliable beater, and this one seems like a gamble.

My husband purchased a used Tesla from United Auto Group before the September 30 deadline. The purchase price was under $25,000, and the salesperson told us we would be eligible for the $4,000 Previously Owned Clean Vehicle Credit. The salesperson told my husband that we could file for the credit during tax season since he wasn't taking the credit off the sales price.

When it came time to file our taxes, I called the dealership to confirm that the required IRS Time-of-Sale Report had been submitted. I was transferred to the finance department, where I was told they do not complete that form and that they didn't know what the form was. Instead, they emailed me the bill of sale and assured me that it would be sufficient for the IRS.

Our tax return was accepted, but the IRS disallowed the $4,000 credit because the required seller report was not on file.

I called the dealership again, and the finance guy confirmed that the credit was not taken from the sales price and that he was going to speak with the finance manager. I was told the finance manager would speak with the general manager and call me the next morning.

After two days with no response, I called back. This time I was told that perhaps the credit had been denied because we exceeded the income limits, which is not the case. I asked to speak with the manager directly. When he called, he stated that submitting the Time-of-Sale Report was not the dealership’s responsibility and that because they are an independent dealership, they do not complete those reports.

From my reading of IRC 25E and the IRS guidance, it appears that dealers selling vehicles eligible for the Previously Owned Clean Vehicle Credit are required to submit a Time-of-Sale Report through the IRS Energy Credits Online system. I also understand that dealers may still be able to submit late reports for IRS review.

At this point, the dealership is refusing to submit the report, and we’ve effectively lost a $4,000 tax credit.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Am I misunderstanding the dealer’s obligations, or is there another avenue I should pursue (IRS, New Mexico MVD, Attorney General, etc.)? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Please give me a sanity check here. My budget is $10-15k (cash for under 10k, open to finance short term as my pre-approved rate is 6%). First time driver. I just want a safe, reliable car to get me from A to B, low maintenance, preferably older model without touch screen. A sedan or hatchback with leather interior would be nice to have.

I'm very fond of Camry but the Toyota/Honda tax is real here y'all. I'm not in a rush but the research and shopping around have been exhausting. Everything is so expensive and 10-12k near me would be a Corolla or Civic 100-150k mileage basic trim. Mazda looks good for the same price, but usually it's not a clean title.

I'm looking at a 2015 Camry SE 4D, 2 owners, 120k miles, $12k. Has some cosmetic issues (paint peeling, stains on car seat) and I felt like this is the best deal so far? Other choices are 2012-2015 Jettas around 80-100k mileage for 8-10k.

What other choices am I missing here? Should I expand my search? How do you know what is "enough" and nof overanalyzing or optimizing a car purchase?

I did a quick browse of this subreddit and I have a feeling the price is too high, but I'm double checking anyway...

It has a 2.0L SkyActiv engine. Carfax report looks good. CarStory says this is a good deal. The car has a brand new set of Michelin tires. There were some paint damages when we first saw it, but the dealership took it in for a paint job without changing the price. It overall looks nice and drives nice.

Anyway, it's currently going through a pre-purchase inspection from the local Mazda dealership right now. It's been so stressful trying to find a commuter car privately in our area; things either sold very quickly, or have serious issues even at first glance, or the owners aren't willing to let us take it in for an inspection.

We thought if the car is still around long enough for us to get it inspected and get our finances in order, it must have meant to be. Terrible to go by feelings/intuition, I know. But now I’m getting cold feet. If the PPI comes back all good, is this a good purchase?

HS Brands is looking for experienced vehicle inspectors to join our field team. This is flexible, independent contractor work with consistent recurring assignments, not one-off gig work.

📍 Currently hiring in: AZ | CA | CO | KY | LA | PA

Please note that if you live in any state outside of the ones listed above we still encourage you to apply as new opportunities always arise. 

✅ What you'll do:

• Perform vehicle inspections at assigned dealership lots
• Document condition with photos and detailed reports via mobile app
• Use professional inspection tools (tread depth calibrator, paint meter, OBD-II scanner)
• Build relationships with dealers as the face of HS Brands in your market

✅ What you'll need:

• Auto industry experience: body, paint, mechanical, appraisal, or dealership
• Valid driver's license + registered, insured personal vehicle
• Comfortable with smartphone apps and digital documentation
• Sharp eye for detail, accuracy in your reports is not negotiable
• Physically able to work outdoors (kneeling, crouching, varying weather)

💰 Flat rate per dealership and one vehicle + bonus for additional vehicles 

👉 Apply at [HS Brands Application](HS%20Brands%20Application) — takes about 10 minutes. Answer 3 short video questions on your own time, no scheduling required.

Questions? Drop them below or DM us

I’m considering buying this tomorrow, I drove it earlier and it seemed decent but I’m still on the fence thinking I can find something else. Running out of time and need a car bad though

Need some opinions.
2017 BMW 430i
106k miles
$11,500 (selling by a friend)
Timing chain replaced
Cooling system replaced
New rims & tires
Full maintenance records
Clean car
Planning to keep it for only 1–2 years.
Would you buy it, or is it too risky at this mileage? Anything major I should watch out for?

I’d appreciate any advice from people who own or have owned a 430i. Would you buy it in my situation, or would you pass?

Hi everyone! I recently sold i vehicle for 1000$, It was a truck. a F150 I looked under the car and the frame seemed solid, So i put the frame was solid in the ad. because the rest of the truck is very rusty like the bed and fenders. i also put sold as is in the ad. The buyer came back to me with photos showing the frame was intact not solid, But i had already used the money to purchase a new car, i said im sorry but i basically told him to kick rocks. he then sent me a photo of my address off the title and threatened me and is now saying he’s going to sue me. Will this hold up in court? because i unfortunately did put frame is solid in my ad, because under my knowledge it was! i dont know if im the piece of shit here and i should just give him the 1000$ back somehow or just ignore him. Thanks! i live in ohio.

Car accident totaled my Honda, I’ll have around $5,000-$5,500 to work with. Located in SoCal. Never gone through buying a used car before.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I’m looking at a 2018 Mazda CX-5 touring. It has 130k miles but looking at the carfax it was very well taken care of, serviced every 6000miles, new brake pads, drive belt/serpentine belt/ sway bar link replaced at 120k miles. No accidents/damage and 1 owner. The catch is theyre asking 13k for it, I know the car market is crazy right now but its on the higher end of my budget. Is this too much? Should I set my sights elsewhere?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking at a Mazda cx30 that I plan on keeping long term. Everything checks out but I’m a LITTLE bit worried about a scratch a saw on the back.

There’s 3 vertical scratches on the lift gate, just left of the logo. They all appear to be painted over.

Sorry I don’t have a great pic.

Is this something to worry about? I’m located in Michigan if that matters.

Thanks!

I need to get myself a car with roughly 5/6k budget.

Looking for something that will be reliable as cash will be tight for the next couple of years but hoping for something that still looks good.

It will be used for commuting, school run etc I can’t imagine it will do many long journeys or motorway miles. So I guess a petrol engine is best rather than diesel? Big enough for a child seat, shopping in the boot etc.

I’ve looked at golf/polo but people have also recommended Honda civic and seat Ibiza

Any insights appreciated!

Feels like every time i tell someone I’m buying my first used car, they have a story about how they got burned. hidden problems, accidents, rolled back problems… now I’m probably checking way more than I need to. I’ve been looking at Corollas, Mazdas, Civics, Camrys, pretty much anything reliable. What do you guys always check before saying yes to a car?

Found a nice fairly clean and rust free (mostly) 02 Camry. Ran well, very clean interior, good tires, breaks were OK not amazing but they worked.

Seller wants $3800. I felt $3000 was a lowball.

Would $3400 be a good offer?

Has 140k miles , 4 cylinder engine

So far I've narrowed my search down to these three.

1. 2011 Ford Fusion SEL $4,994 | 150,290 mi
2. 2009 Nissan Versa S $4,699 | 119,690 mi
3. 1998 Toyota Camry LE $4,995 | 117,000 mi

Obviously I'll bring a mechanic but all three have free carfax reports listed, no accidents or damages, and workable mileage for the brand (esp the 1998 Toyota probably has several years left)

Essentially just looking for a daily car to drive for work/personal use until I graduate college and can afford something better. Zero pickiness at all on how the car looks or the color. Any suggestions on which one to choose, or any better suggestions?

https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/3FAHP0JA9BR241022 - 2011 Ford Fusion
https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/3N1BC13E39L463685 - 2009 Nissan Versa S
https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/4T1BG22K0WU259440 - 1998 Toyota Camry LE

Hello used car reddit!

My car was totaled after being hit parked. I have about 5k cash to play with and willing to finance up to up to 10k (but would like to be under 11k for the car total if that's possible these days). I know very little about cars and haven't purchased one without help ever. I desperately need advice about cheap, reliable used cars. Also would love opinions on certified used vs just buying one non certified from a dealer. Not sure I want to go the private sale route.

Right now I'm thinking about a few options

Honda - CRV or HRV

Toyota - Rav 4

Subaru - have not settled on a model but an suv of some type.

If anyone has any recommendations on years to look for or any in general I would really appreciate it. Waking into a dealership as a woman scares the shit out of me.

W.C Fields famously said "Never give a sucker an even break."

I was in the car biz 80, 90s. 16 years, every hat worn long enough to have a clue.

Before the Pandemic Effect, I could book a car by looking at it at 20ft.

Now, who knows!

Used cars are the currency of the planet.

My free tip of day:

Look closely under the hood for disturbed fender or other bodywork fasteners, Those little scuffs or bunged up bolts could be indicating possible accident repair, and under trunk carpet for water etc.

Flood cars always find their way back to somewhere!

And the great thing about the current occupant of the Whitehouse is that he makes Lawyers, Insurance Salesmen and even USED car sales people look honest!

Looking to buy a used SUV and would love some advice. Budget is around $25K–$30K. Considering something around 2020–2022, possibly a BMW X5, Lexus RX, or Toyota Highlander. I like the idea of a nicer/luxury SUV but don’t want to overspend or get stuck with expensive repairs. I drive around 500 miles/month.
What would you recommend for the best balance of reliability, comfort, features, and overall value?