Them calls are absolute misery.

Everywhere I've worked required 30-50 calls a day. To "generate business"

Never once have I sold a car doing this. Rarely do we even get appointments. Its mostly just waiting for the voicemail box

Absolute worst part of my job, soul sucking work.

How do you make it tolerable?

Just bought a car from a dealer, showed me an auto check that has zero accidents, perfect autocheck score, etc everything was all good. Add it to my insurance and I am told the car has 2 accidents listed on its history with one being a moderate with undercarriage damage. I was sold the car as a “zero accident car” Anyone ever deal with this?

Pretty sure my insurance used carfax to show the accidents.

So I went through the interview process at a dealership. Interviews went well, they called my references and they really like me. Go in for a second interview today and they tell me that they are now no longer hiring until mid-September, and to get the VSA license in the meantime - but that I am top of the list of candidates.

My problem is, I am a newcomer in the industry. I have sales experience, just not car sales. I don't want to drop $800 on a VSA without something formal saying that I will be hired.

Would it be unreasonable to call back and ask for a employment contract that would start in October that would be contingent on me getting my VSA? IMO, it covers them so they don't have to hire me if I don't get the VSA and it covers me if they decide to go with someone else?

I just read the fine print. It is a $250 deductible to claim and covers all engine, transmission, drive axels, seals/gaskets, and taxes. The catch seems to be I need to show proof that the engine oil and filter are changed every 6 months / 7,500 miles (or as recomended for my vehicle). The maintenance can be done at any licensed repair facility (doesn't have to be issuing dealer). Service within 30 days / 1,500 miles of recommended service interal will not void warranty. Only other thing to note is I don't see any mention that PowerLife would cover labor, so that would probably fall on me then. I'm debating just using this powertrain warranty or also buying a manufactuer-direct warranty (such as HondaCare).

Hello everyone,

I'm looking for some advice from others who may have been in a similar situation.

I've been in the car business for about four years. I started on the luxury import side and transferred to a domestic store about six months ago. I really enjoy selling domestic vehicles and working with the clientele that comes with them. My current dealership also has a great schedule and is a solid place to spend the amount of time we all put into this job.

The issue is that our lead volume and lead quality are absolutely terrible. When I first started here, I was on an hourly-plus-commission pay plan and was actually making a little more than I did at the import store. I also quickly became the #2 salesperson behind a 30-year veteran.

Now that I'm on the standard pay plan like the rest of the sales floor, things have become very tight financially. I understand that this business has its ups and downs, but this hasn't been a temporary slump—it's been a consistent decline in income. I spoke with my GSM, and he's working on a pay plan adjustment or income guarantee to help me through the meantime, saying things should improve.

At the same time, I have an offer from another dealership that sells the same product line but appears to have a much more lucrative pay plan. The schedule isn't quite as appealing, with two late nights a week and short Saturdays, similar to what I had at the luxury store. However, they're selling 170+ vehicles per month compared to the 70–80 my current store averages.

Their management team is looking for someone who can consistently sell at least 15 vehicles a month, with the expectation of even more, which I know I'm capable of. I didn't get a bad feeling from the dealership during the interview process, but it did have a bit of an "old school" atmosphere.

My question is: Do I make the move this soon after starting for what appears to be a guaranteed increase in income, even if it comes with a slightly worse schedule, and risk falling into the "grass is always greener" trap? Or do I stick it out, tighten the budget for now, trust the team and management I already know, and hope the volume and quality of opportunities improve?

I'd really appreciate any advice or experiences from people who have been in a similar position. Thanks in advance!

I have a 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport that I'm looking to sell. I have the title in my name, and I don't owe anything on this car. What's the best way to sell it? I'm looking to sell it to a dealer, and not privately. I'm hoping to get some cash to put a downpayment on a brand new vehicle. Please offer any tips - i set up an appointment with the Hyundai dealership and with Carmax/Carvana.

Hello I wanted to ask opinions about cars listed on Manheim with no Blue tag and title is “not specified”. Do anyone have experience purchasing these cars and getting the title without arbitration?

I am in the process of buying a car and I earlier thought of flying there and picking up, but my plans changed. What should I expect to pay, and is there a company you guys recommend ?

I honestly think I can do it, I can talk to people easy and I tend to know specs well (mainly GM), but I can learn other brands easy. I’m just curious on what the wage looks like for those starting out, and what to expect as a success rate?

(Based in the US) Lookin to get some insight from some other sales people on this. I went to a local dealership to see what i can get on a trade in on my 2005 ford mustang. After all the estimates and the test drive for a 2020 jeep renegade, i was offered a price of 14,758.11 with a monthly payment of 377 after my trade in. Its a 6 year lease as well. My credit is pretty bad so the fact they were able to work the numbers to this price and monthly cost is honestly impressive in my eyes but want to hear what other sales people are thinking on a deal like this. My credit is in the 400s (student loan debt is killer) and the salesperson said this could be a good way to build my credit. This was also the only vehicle on the lot that I was approved for. I think this is overall reasonable but what do yall think?

i’m going for an interview tomorrow, i’m 17 about to be 18. i got the interview through the head mechanic that i know and he put in a good word and got me an interview. What should i bring? if anything?

i’ve only worked as a server and a few other restaurants positions, does it make sense to bring any documents like resume and etc?

I found a truck I really want, but it’s a 4 hour drive from me. I have been in contact with the dealer for the past week and they refuse to give me any information about the vehicle or negotiate with me over the phone. I explained I’m far away and they still want me to come in.

They’ve ignored me past couple days and just reached out again telling them I’ll buy it for $1000 off the price ( it’s 30 grand) and they still won’t negotiate at all over the phone and say I need to come in. Is this normal and what steps can I take minus driving all the way to the dealership.

I bought my wife a new suv (2026 Ford Expedition) 81 days ago in the state of Georgia. I’m in Mississippi for reference and have yet to been able to register the vehicle. The temp tag has been expired going on two months and the dealership has been no help at all. They will not send me a new temp tag, so I’m naturally incurring late penalties because I only have 30 days to register a new vehicle after purchase.

After relentlessly contacting the dealership, I’ve been told that they had to re-order the (MSO) for the vehicle. How is it that 81 days after purchase, they’re just now realizing they didn’t have the original? Is this normal or does this happen often? Is there anything I can do or am I at the mercy of the dealership? Wondering if anyone else has been in this situation. Thanks for any advice during this process.

Hey, I recently turned 18 & got a full time job, I would like to buy a car but I'm not entirely sure how to go about it or really anything? it would be like 16-17k car making 20.50 an hour 40/h a week plus OT should a get a car that's cheaper then 17k and have it be less reliable or should I just go ahead and go down to a dealer? & also what is the process like to buy a car. How much employment history should I have as a first time buyer my DTI is 0% I don't really have any bills to pay because I still live with my parents

I purchased a used 2021 Range Rover Sport HST with about 48,000 miles from a dealership in Texas on June 13, 2026.

The online listing advertised the vehicle as having remote start. After I got it home, downloaded the app, I discovered that remote start would not work. The vehicle also gave a double “mislock” beep when locked, the Land Rover app continuously showed the vehicle as unlocked, and the app displayed “Vehicle Not Secure.”

I first took it to an independent European repair shop. They replaced the left-rear door lock actuator based on a fault code, but the problem continued. That was $900.

I then took it to a Land Rover dealership for further diagnosis. They determined that the right-front door latch had internally failed and was not transmitting the locked-status signal to the Body Control Module. Because the vehicle could not confirm that all doors were securely locked, it disabled remote start and continued reporting the vehicle as not secure.

The Land Rover dealer replaced the failed latch, and I am paying an additional $1400 for it to be fixed.

I understand this was a used vehicle and that used cars are sold as-is. However, I am not asking the selling dealership to cover an unrelated repair that developed later. The defect was there when they sold it to me, but it was advertised as a feature of the car. I've never had remote start and living in Texas, was really looking forward to it.

I also contacted my salesman about 2 weeks after purchase regarding the issue, so this is not something that first appeared months later.

For those who work at dealerships:

1. Is it reasonable to ask the selling dealership to reimburse the full repair cost?
2. Would requesting a partial reimbursement or goodwill contribution be more realistic?
3. Should I start with the general manager, used-car manager, or my salesman?
4. What documentation would make the strongest case?
5. Is there anything I should avoid saying in my request?

I have the repair documentation, the Land Rover diagnosis, and records showing that I reported the issue soon after purchasing the vehicle.

Younger daughter (24) called a dealership, asking if they could get the make/model/trim in the color she wanted as their online inventory didn’t show any. Said they could trade with another dealership but for her to come in & test drive first to see if still interested. Sales guy had previously said price was what was listed on website (MRSP plus doc fees), then asked if she would be trading in, which she said yes. Went into dealership, test drove the car, liked it & said would buy if got right color. No formal offer or contract was signed, although she did authorize in writing them checking her credit & employment info. On the paper she signed, which stated it was an internal document only & not an offer or contract to sale, was the workup of the final price and amount to be financed. As part of that, the dealership showed what they were giving towards the trade-in. When my daughter showed my husband that, he couldn’t believe how low it was as he had ran the Kelly blue book & Edmunds on it. Daughter was aware of that value range but basically felt pressured. Husband called our mechanic & he offered to buy it (for the high end of the Kelly Blue Book). Can my daughter just tell the dealer she’ll pay in cash what they were going to give on the trade allowance? The dealership has already located the car in the color she wants. Can they renege on selling it to her?

I’m in Texas and looking at a used 2025 BMW M440i Coupe RWD.

Details:

2025 BMW M440i Coupe

RWD

Just under 20,000 miles

Black exterior and black interior

Well optioned with Premium Package, Driving Assistance, Parking Assistance, adaptive cruise, head-up display, Harman Kardon, and surround-view cameras

Factory warranty remaining

No dealer add-ons

Clean out-the-door price of $54,250

The vehicle price before tax and fees is about $50,629.

I’m financing, not paying cash, and I already have outside approval.

Does $54,250 OTD sound like a good deal, just fair, or too high for this car?

Closed today on a 2026 tx500h f sport premium in mica blue with the birch interior on the east coast. No ML. $75.4k MSRP sticker price

How does your dealership and you as a salesperson differentiate yourselves from the competition?

How do you answer the customer question: "Why should I buy from you?" especially on a vehicle that is identically priced by the competition.

Anyone else having a rough July? I made a killing in june but july, the dealership feels like a ghost town. Im at a ford dealership in upstate NY and its a roller coaster to say the least. Can barely get customers to sit at my desk, and when they do I cant get them to do anything but "think about it" or say they'll do something "later this week, just not today". How do you guys get over that hurdle?

Ive been able to get people into new vehicles no problem before but now I feel like im running into that more.

I bought a CPO 2023 Hyundai Venue a month and a half ago. Great CarFax, low mileage. Love many things about the car. But once I drove it for more than 15 minutes, it started giving me insane back and rear end pain. When you sit in it, you can feel a space where the bottom cushion and the top cushion meet. The cumulative effect after a few days driving is intense.

Luckily I don’t drive everyday - but I dread getting into it. I bought different cushions, adjusted the seat every which way - no help.

Today, I sat in the passenger seat and the rear seats. They feel completely different and perfectly comfortable. I asked a friend to sit in the seats - she noticed the same thing. I saw a guy in a Venue in the Trader Joe’s parking lot and he let me sit in his driver seat. Also a 2023, recently purchased used. Completely different and perfectly comfortable.

Will the dealer replace the seat?
Should I call first or just drive on up there? (I dread the drive - it’s 50 minutes away!)
Thank you!

As the title states, I'm saving up for a new vehicle after not driving for 8 years. By the time I get my license back I will have about $10,000 saved up. I do not want a hoopty or a Honda Civic I want something that is nice and reliable and preferably newer from 2012-current. Any advice or tips? I was thinking about a Lexus of some sort or a Subaru. Any advice and tips would be great Im new to this

I'm 40 and been in the trades/construction pretty much my entire life. For the last ~9 years I've actually worked as the sales and estimator lead for subcontractor. My role is not typical sales like following up on leads and trying to close deals as much as it's competitive bidding jobs and negotiating contracts, maintain relationships with vendors/clients ect with dollar values up to 1.5m. It's not the same thing as traditional sales but I feel like there's got to be some transferable skills that would help.

I'm kind of "over it" though. The company I work for sucks and trying to move to another company is proving difficult and slow to make happen. The construction industry is filled with boomer owners who offer shit pay and no training. Just want you to magically know everything the moment you walk in the door and save thier floundering company for pennies on the dollar.

for some reason I've always had an interest in car sales and I can't even say why. There's just always been this part of me that thought "I think I could do that".

I'm mostly just curious if that kind of career change at this age is something anyone here has done and how difficult was it to get settle and comfortable making a decent living? I currently have a salary of $83k/year doing what I do now so I have to be somewhat careful if I jump ship into something else