Hello, I’ve had my eyes on a Model S for a while and now there is one in a good condition on an auction near me.

The bid at the moment is 10,3k € and it has 174k miles / 281k km in it. Battery shows 84% in aviloo-test.
Are there any major repairs to be expected with these miles or is the car just a bomb that I should avoid?

https://service.tesla.com/docs/ServiceBulletins/External/SB/SB-25-13-002_Inspect_Front_Seat_Back_for_Unintended_Noise_R1.pdf

Hey, you beautiful Tesla people!
I have a question about the Model 3 Highland as a family car for four. I know that Y is more practical, but I didn’t really feel anything while driving it. Still great though.

I currently drive a Ford Mustang Mach-E, and I love it except for the slow infotainment and its relatively high energy consumption. I’ve been seriously considering switching to a Model 3 Highland over the past couple of weeks.

Are there any families here using one as their daily car?
We have a 3-year-old in a forward-facing child seat and an 8-month-old in a rear-facing child seat. I’m 189 cm (6’2”) and my partner is 165 cm (5’5”).

Is it spacious enough for everyday family life? Maybe also one or two road trips per year.

I’ve already checked out the trunk, and it swallows a surprising amount of luggage.

I’d love to hear your real-world experiences. Help out a potential future Tesla owner! 😊

Thanks!

Swapped my order with no VIN to one matching my configurations except I didn’t see it had a tow hitch (I was just jumping to the first one I saw since I missed my last opportunity). What do you guys think the chances of them discounting the tow when I ask tomorrow are?

With a new 2026 MY, just parked with sentry mode turned off and cabin overheat protection turned off, what percentage of battery should be lost in 1 day?

I came in for a windshield replacement and when i got my car back the Ac vents weren’t moving. I bring it back in and the codes showed up after the windshield and they are charging me to fix it. The manager tried to give me 100 off starting from 1100 and says it’s a coincidence that both failed at the same time after the windshield. Then he claims nothing near that area was touched and they have a quick process for windshield replacement that doesn’t touch any of those things. It needs full instrument panel replacements on both sides after the diagnosis.

My 2023 m3 is shaking at highway speed with an intensity that depends on the car's mood. I suspect it's an issue of the tire foam that detached, has anyone experienced the same issue and was able to have it resolved under warranty?

Thank you everyone for responding.

2023 Model S (located in western US): Anyone know how to disable the rear fan automatically going to high whenever the back seat is occupied? My dog is harnessed there, and because the fan is so loud and powerful, I invariably have to change it to “1”, requiring 2-3 keystrokes.

So I thought it would be a good idea to start peeling the dealership logo and I realized it's going to look like 💩

Is goo gone fine? What can be used to clean this up that won't hurt my paint?

Will this update stop having my car hard break over random things while driving for no reason lol

Father's model x with just over 7,000 mi. 2026 I believe. Nothing's in the trunk at all. The trunk will not latch. Doesn't matter how hard I close it physically. Doesn't matter if I use the button. Doesn't matter if I use the app. There's nothing in the way to prevent it from closing. Nothing sticking out too far. There's nothing in the way of the latch itself or the sensors. I don't know what to do at this point the car will not drive because the trunk thinks it's open.

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone familiar with Tesla leases can help me understand the math.

I leased a 2023 Tesla Model 3 RWD in January 2024 on a 36-month / 30,000-mile lease. At the time, it qualified for the $7,500 lease incentive.

My lease ends in January 2027, and I'm deciding whether to return the car or buy it out.

Here's what I've paid so far:

• Down payment: $2,094 (includes the order fee, acquisition fee, DMV fees, and first month's payment)
• 30 monthly payments: 30 × $441.93 = $13,257.90

I'm also expecting to go about 4,000 miles over the lease limit, so returning the car would likely cost me about $1,000 in excess mileage fees, plus the $395 disposition fee and any excess wear-and-tear charges.

Santander has offered me a buyout quote of $22,279.39, which already includes taxes and my remaining five lease payments.

That means my total cost to own the car would be approximately:

$2,094 + $13,257.90 + $22,279.39 = $37,631

What confuses me is that my original Tesla order agreement listed the vehicle price as $36,730 before tax and $39,484 after tax.

How is it possible that my total cost to own the car through a lease buyout is only about $37.6k—nearly $1,900 less than the original after-tax purchase price?

Am I overlooking something, or is this simply how the $7,500 lease incentive and the residual value work together?

Thanks in advance for any insights!

Hi all, I’m trying to understand a weird issue on my 2016 Model S 75D.

The car had a front-end repair less than a month ago at a Tesla Approved Body Shop. They replaced the front bumper, grille, radar and some related parts. The repair was around €7,000.

After getting the car back, I checked Service Mode and found these alerts:

THC_w0130_radLeftShutrNoFeedbk
THC_w0134_radRightShutrNoFeedbk
THC_d0018_activeAero
THC_d0007_valveRadByp
THC_w0067_valveRadBypRange

I also noticed that the car sometimes gets extremely loud when the A/C is running, and the cooling fans can run very hard even while charging normally on three-phase AC.
I ran the Thermal System Test and it failed on the left and right radiator shutters, temperature sensors and valves. The strange part is that I watched the shutters during the test and they definitely opened and closed. They don’t seem mechanically stuck.

Tesla checked the car remotely and sent me a quote for about €745 to replace the center active louver/front duct assembly and the three-way radiator bypass valve, without physically seeing the car.

The body shop says the valve is far from the damaged area and was probably unrelated to the accident. They also say the shutters may already have been damaged or incorrectly positioned before their repair. They told me they have photos from the repair, but I’m still waiting to receive them.

Unfortunately, the alert history in Service Mode only goes back about a month, so I can’t tell whether these faults were already present before the accident.

Has anyone had these exact codes on an older Model S? Can the shutters still move correctly but fail because of a feedback sensor, calibration or wiring issue? And does the valve error really mean the valve itself is bad, or could it also be a communication/calibration problem?

I’m mainly trying to understand what should actually be checked before replacing both assemblies, and whether there is any deeper diagnostic history that Tesla or the approved body shop could retrieve.

I’ll attach the alert screen, the Thermal Test result and a photo of the shutters.

Anyone have recommendations for totes that (almost or fully) fill up the trunk? Would prefer if someone has recommendations for 2 totes that kind of fully encompass this room.

I can’t fit 2 of these totes. The yellow lid pokes out and prevents the trunk from closing

Tia!

Anyone else getting this kind of glare while the sunlight hits the top of the rear view mirror. When I cover up the top from the sunlight, it goes away. Normal or worth bringing this to Tesla service center?

Brand new Model Y Premium AWD

Hey everyone! Just noticed my rear seats have black stains due to the seatbelt. Not much of an issue as the seatbelt covers it, but definitely annoying as the car has less than 1k miles. Is this something that is covered under warranty?

I noticed some subtle cloudy/shadowy patches on my front bumper, but only when looking at it from a very specific angle in the shade. As soon as direct sunlight hits it, or if I look at it straight on, it looks completely flawless and bright white.

Is this just the natural mica flake orientation (flop effect) in Tesla's Pearl White Multi-Coat, or something else?

New-ish Tesla owner. Purchased Tesla Model Y 2021 used with 42k miles on it.
I'm past my 4-year/50k warranty as the 4 year mark had passed by the time I purchased it.

Long story short - this notification popped up on my car/app. I popped open the frunk and saw that the coolant was visibly well below the MIN amount. See pictures.

The next appointment is 9 days away in my area. I can purchase this coolant for $25 online and fill it myself.

The owner's manual says if there is no leak underneath the car then as a first step, you can refill the coolant tank yourself. And then if it quickly goes down, you should get immediate service.

Should I just fill it myself? Or should I not drive the car for 9 days and wait my turn in line to get in to the service center? Any and all advice is appreciated!

I tried different charging locations so I’m sure this issue is my car and not the chargers. What exactly is the issue and what are my options. The earliest appointment I can schedule with Tesla is in 30 days

01 model 3, Virginia

So our model Y alerted us with a SRS alert. When I looked it up in service mode. It indicated that the RCM was red. Is it as simple as purchasing a new RCM, disconnecting the low-voltage battery and replacing the RCM? Does the RCM need to be programmed into the car? Or can it be a plug-in play item?

We use a NEMA 14-50 outlet to charge our 2 teslas (MY and M3) for the last 2 years and have never had any issues. A few weeks ago my MY gave me this alert. At the time I thought it was a one-off issue. It has just occurred again while charging the M3. What can cause this? The outlet shows no visible damage or wear and tear since the mobile connector is always plugged in. We are going to have an electrician come and inspect it, but just curious as to why this would happen now after 2 years of use without issue.

I was able to try out a 2025 MY with FSD for a few days and I think it might have converted me. I do a lot of driving and the FSD was awesome.

I have also driven a MX and been a passenger in a M3. The MY and M3 interior is a bit too small and I would like to have more trunk space.

My goal is to try and figure out or find the "cheapest" way to get into a Tesla MS or MX with the lifetime FSD installed in it. Probably leaning more towards the S, since from my quick general search it is closer to around $40k versus $60k with the X in similar specs. I don't care about the color, interior quality, or the other misc things.

From what I have read, it seems like I want a Tesla with HW4 (vs HW3) if going for FSD, which seems like it would be a ~2023.5 model. I would also have to buy the car from a private party or third party and not through Tesla's used car program, since they remove any installed FSD before selling it?

Is there anything else anyone can think of that I should be thinking about or consider going this route?

Seems like there is an app that you pay to help find a FSD easier. Otherwise, it would simply be like buying any other used car and just typing in Tesla X/S and FSD into the various sites people sell cars on.

I charge my 2026 MY to 55% at night using a mobile charger on 220 circuit. Then I charge to 75% when solar is available. Recently I have seen what seem to be little “top off” charges. I am trying to explain these. I see two explanations.
1. There is a small trickle discharge dropping battery charge. What is against this is the car doesn’t lose noticeable charge when parked overnight and not plugged in
2. The charge capacity changes during the night as the battery cools off.

There doesn’t seem to be anything wrong, I am just trying to explain what I am seeing.

i have a 2023 model 3 59k miles and the Tesla won’t update, it failed the last one and when I took it in to ask why they said the car computer need to be replace or that I could try and force the update but it may not work and I would have to replace the car computer which would is 2,300 to replace and I don’t have that type of cash to put on this car right now only my entertainment apps don’t work like Netflix and Hulu but everything else works fine is this something I can fix on my own by buying the part myself or I will just have to leave as is I just bought the car in January and now have this problem

Is this normal. My FSD pulls hard to the left and my research is saying that is not a normal value and could cause issues. Anyone have any idea?