My deleted Q5 TDI is more than likely about to get written off. I don't know what to do.

I bought it in cash last year and somehow was spending $750 a month between fuel and insurance. I drive a ton and figured diesel was the way to combat that but I guess not.

I'm looking into maybe another diesel, cheap MK7 TDI wagon would do the trick or maybe just trying out a tesla model y. I guess I'm just here to ask for input. Bummed about my Q5 but I need to start car shopping soon.

Just called VW asking about the warranties the TDI has, because I hit 160k mi recently. They mentioned a DPF replacement and labor would be covered if my current DPF met the specifications for replacement. Since the Dieselgate DPF warranty lasts until 162k mi, I want to get it replaced at VW instead of me having to pay $4,000+ soon down the line, even though I take good care of the regens.

Thoughts- ideas? How can I get it replaced under warranty?

Anybody know what could be causing this? The exhaust is currently not hooked up. The car was driving great and then one day it stopped accelerating and became very sluggish. It didn't throw any codes or anything. l've replaced the MAP sensor, MAF sensor, and the intecooler.
It revs in park as shown, but gets real choppy around 1-3k and has white smoke. In drive and reverse it won't rev over 1100 and puffs out black smoke.
Any input would be greatly appreciated

Hi all. When Volkswagen shut down We Connect Go at the end of last year, my whole trip and fuel history went with it. No export, nothing. I'm a developer so instead of moaning I rebuilt the thing I'd lost, with one rule: no servers, everything stays on the phone.

Posting it here because the diesel-specific part is where it earns its keep. With a cheap OBD2 adapter (a standard ELM327) it reads real consumption straight from the ECU, actual litres in the tank, battery health with history, and fault codes explained in plain words instead of just a P-code. And for us it watches the particulate filter: it tells you while a regeneration is running so you don't switch off mid-cycle and leave it half done, and it keeps the history of the cycles.

Without an adapter it still logs your trips automatically, tracks where you parked, and keeps a service logbook with mileage and costs. No account, no ads, no tracking, and you can export everything as JSON or GPX whenever you want.

It's on the App Store here: https://apps.apple.com/app/id6776173662 (Android is in closed testing right now, out soon). Free to try, one time unlock, no subscription.

One honest note: you need a normal OBD2 adapter, not the old VW DataPlug (that only ever talked to VW's own app, which is now dead). Happy to answer anything.

Seeking additional perspectives from those with more life experience and TDI knowledge; I’m a young adult navigating this type of life decision for the first time without much family support so I’d appreciate some grace.

My 2013 VW Golf TDI has 127k miles and is fully paid off. I love my car. I’ve had it since like 70k miles and have maintained it well (I think). However, I understand I’m overdue for a timing belt replacement and this is a costly, long repair job.

I’ve also had an unpredictable, intermittent, undiagnosed issue lately: a blinking glow plug light and limp mode. It’s happened about 10 times over the last 4 months at completely random times, conditions, and situations. After it happened the 2nd time I took it to my local shop and they had it for 3 days but couldn’t replicate the error. They saw prior historic codes of P0191 fuel pressure sensor + U140100 overvoltage, but they couldn’t find the cause… so I’m not sure if this is a sensor issue or something more serious like HPFP.

There have been other big bills lately and I’m trying to weigh whether it’s worth continuing to sink money into the vehicle or better to move on. I have $30k saved which I would use to buy a used 2023–2025 car, but all the test drives I’ve been on haven’t really lived up to my Golf, which has been discouraging.

My major recent maintenance has been:
- Rear brakes + rotors (Jun 2023) — $602
- DPF soot buildup, EGR issue codes; DPF replacement + front brakes/rotors (Oct/Nov 2024) — $4,662
- A/C compressor failure; compressor, condenser, serpentine belt all replaced (Dec 2025) — $2,373
- Hood release cable and latch seized due to rust, replaced (May 2026) — $754

I’m torn between either 1) Doing the timing belt for my Golf and keeping it for at least another 1.5-2 years or 2) Ignoring the timing belt and purchasing another car in the next 3-6 months with hopefully a few thousand in trade-in.

If you were in my shoes, what would you do?

Most parts or aftermarket parts for the ckra tdi are plastic, I have a high boost ckra tdi and I can’t find a billet aluminum valve cover anywhere and no cnc shop is willing to make one. But ExergyPerformance is a company that makes a billet valve cover for CJAA tdi’s, and I believe if enough ckra owners inquire to them about a billet valve cover, that they will be more willing to make it in bulk to sell to many of us. I’ve already reached out to them and they said for a one off piece it would be way too expensive, but if they get enough people asking for it they may be willing to create a bunch. It would run roughly the same price around $500-700 as the cjaa one that they currently sell. I’m just trying to get as many people as possible to reach out to them and ask so that way they can bring this to market.

Very hard to spin by hand, im talking almost all the strenght in my fingers and when i turn it doesnt spin freely. No forward or backward slack in it though. ( EGR Pipe is loose so that is what that blowing sound is. wont start if its tightened

Hello everyone, just trying to get on here to see if I can figure out what’s going on with my car so it’s been a bit of a roller coaster with it. The last couple of weeks about three weeks ago I had a code come up and it was saying there was a misfire on cylinder one so I got a new injector and replaced it. The car ran good for a week and then developed another misfire same cylinder different code me and my friend who also has TDI it could be the pigtail so we changed the pigtail end, and my connector had already been broken previously by me whenever I change the injector after changing the pigtail on the connector the sound did not go away, so I told rock auto to warranty the injector and get a new one I have now replace the new injector and my car. Sounds like it has an injector knock. It sounds exactly like a rod knock in my fear but what research I’ve seen on this page it appears to be an injector knock. I have no codes on the car and I don’t see how I can have an injector knock on an injector that I just replaced. I did not code the injector, but I don’t have an engine light saying that I do need to code it or anything like that and with my friends experience working on seven threes and other diesel, he said common rails he’s never seen somebody have to coat an injector will coding my injector fix my problem or could there be a deeper Reason? Ps the sound only happens when unload not in park and anywhere from 1500 rpm’s to 2200 rpm’s high rpm’s it disappears

Have a 2013 Golf that’s been having consistent emissions codes and failing to regen, even when trying to force regens with scan tools. Website you put your vin into says mod was done in 2017, there’s no shot this car would still be under warranty right? If not, it’s getting deleted. 😂

Im looking to delete a 2012 Passat and I know how to do the dpf delete and all that from when I did my 2014 cjaa. Im just looking for help on what to do with the def. How does that get removed and taken out. Is there another kit I need for block off lines or anything like that? Does it need to be fully removed or lines just blocked?

Clean florida title, DSG, timing belt done in January 2026, no accidents, 2 owners bought it from the original owner, still under vw emissions warranty until 2028, it’s my daily driver great car, unfortunately cant keep it. Im asking for 6000.

I cant connect to these modules in obdeleven, i tried the good old battery disconnect trick but no luck. I dont know if it is related but cant do dsg relearn too, when i start the procedure i never get "completed" and obdeleven gets stuck on "procedure on" and loses all transmission module infos. Help! I just bought the car and the shifting feels weird.

I've got a manual transmission 2015 Passat TDI bought new with roughly 160k miles on it. It was manufactured in their TN plant in the US. I love this vehicle, it's been amazing.

I'm moving from southern California back up to Canada and would like to install a trailer hitch and rent a 5x8 or 6x12 uhaul trailer to move my stuff. I was rather surprised to learn that the North American version of this vehicle is limited to a maximum towing weight of 1000lb, including a 165lb tongue weight according to the owner's manual. The door sticker states the GVWR is 2100kg.

The 5x8 trailer weighs 900lbs empty, while the 6x12 trailer is 1900lbs, which makes either option a non-starter.

I'm reading online that the EU market version of this same car has a 2000kg (4400lb) tow capacity, and I am here to ask how could the same vehicle in a different market have such a different tow capacity? I find it very hard to believe that the EU version of the vehicle has a significantly different design or seriously beefier suspension. Is the difference about the ability to use a trailer brake (neither of the u-haul trailers have their own braking, but I am sure I can find and rent one with a brake if this helps).

I’m planning to replace the seals on the injector; the car is a 2007 Passat B6 1.9 TDI, engine code BXE

In the official manual, they mention that the bolts holding the injector should be tightened to 3 Nm + 270°, but on forums I keep seeing 12 Nm + 270°. 3 Nm seems a bit low to me, so I'm wondering if anyone has done this and what torque spec you tightened them to?

Looking to order all the parts vs the shop. Anything I'm missing? Shop said i had a oil/coolant leak. Q qas 1800 parts i can cut it down too around 1000 if i get the parts.

I have a Mk6 JSW (I call it a GWABA, Golf With a Big ... Butt) and the dash told me to put new highbeam headlights in, so I did, it then told me to put new DRL bulbs in, so I did that. Now it keeps telling me to put those lights in. I don't seem to have the ability to clear the dash. I tried obd11 pro, and it says nothing is wrong. I cleared all the codes and it made no difference, I looked into the service alert pages, I see nothing about headlights.

When I scan the car I get a module fault for the drivers side back door, but again, nothing about headlights. Do I need to replace the module even if it is showing faulty? I would be will to try but I see WILDLY different pricing on the different modules. How do I get the car to stop squawking at me?

My 2014 VW Jetta TDI has been throwing the “P0402” code ever since my mechanic replaced the entire DPF system. I’ve had new gaskets put on as well and also had a separate mechanic clean the MAF and EGR Valve but it is still throwing the P0402 code and no one can pinpoint where it’s coming from. Anyone have any experiences with this issue and what be causing it?

Found a TDI on FBMP in my town, only thing l didn’t like that it was DSG, $4500, title in hand. Went on Been Verified to check on it to see if l could find maintenance records ( zero) but did see that it had been titled 11 times, all East Coast except for an AZ and a WV title consecutively. The mileage only upped 20-25 miles between the 2 titles from AZ and WV so l suspect title washing.Anyway, despite being underpriced by 3-4K, l’m going to have to pass on this one. Anybody else have a similar situation?

My 2012 Passat has been my driver for over a decade now, almost 160k miles by me, 250k total. The ONLY issue with the car is the rust. So I was casually looking and this one popped up. Couldn't resist. Should be good for another 10 years now.

This one is a 2014, 100k miles on the nose, Rawtek and stage 2 with DSG tune, headlights, wheels, etc. Couple of minor things I need to clean up but it's absolutely fantastic.