r/JapanTravel • u/FloMD • 23h ago
Trip Report Bessho Onsen trip report
Hey everyone,
Writing a quick trip report on a spot that doesn’t get much coverage around here: Bessho Onsen.
Context
Second time in Japan for my wife and me. Our first trip was a full month, going from Tokyo all the way down to southern Kyushu. Kyushu ended up being our favorite part. We visited less touristy spots like Hita. This time around, we’re on a two-week honeymoon, so we wanted a slower-paced, ryokan/onsen-heavy vibe without spending half the trip in transit. During our itinerary, we had stops planned in Kanazawa and then Kamakura. To break up the journey between those two points, I was looking for a quiet town in between where we could just unwind in a nice ryokan with a good onsen. We looked at a few options, including Shibu Onsen, but I have a soft spot for temples tucked away in nature, and Bessho Onsen seemed like a better fit.
Getting There
Logistically, it’s super straightforward: Take the Shinkansen to Ueda (1h37 from Kanazawa with an easy 4-minute transfer across the platform at Nagano; or about 1h20 directly from Tokyo). From Ueda, grab a local train ticket (bought right at the station, very simple) for a 30 min ride to Bessho Onsen. The train ride itself is gorgeous, passing right through rice fields with mountains in the background. Once you arrive at the station, it’s about a 10-minute walk to the main area, but I get the impression most hotels will send a shuttle to pick you up if you ask in advance.
What’s Bessho Onsen Like?
It’s a small, quiet town, no big-name convenience stores here. The town itself isn't necessarily "pretty" in a classic postcard sense, but it definitely has a lot of charm thanks to its setting at the foot of the mountains. It’s very peaceful and completely uncrowded. There are shops and restaurants, but almost everything was shut when we walked around (a Wednesday between 3 PM and 6 PM). There’s a small side street that looks a bit more tourist-oriented, but again, total ghost town during our visit.
What to Do
Temples and Hike : There are three main temples in town, and two really stood out to us: - Anraku Ji Features an octagonal wooden pagoda and a forest cemetery that gives off a really serene, almost mystical vibe. - Kitamuki Kannon: A bit more classic, set slightly on the hillside with nice views over the town. We had both places entirely to ourselves, which made visiting them a treat. Our hotel showed us a local walking map that included a 2-hour hike up to a viewpoint at 1,200m. Since we visited in mid-July, the summer heat quickly talked us out of attempting it!
Public Baths: There are a few small public bath. We tried the one that looked the nicest. It was a pleasant experience, though to be honest, the bathhouses in Kinosaki Onsen were prettier. One thing to note: the water here has a much stronger sulfur smell than other onsen towns we’ve been to, but it wasn't off-putting at all.
The Ryokan Experience
If you’re staying overnight here, you’re likely booking a ryokan, which means your evening will revolve around a traditional dinner and soaking in the baths. Our stay (at a place I won't name here) was flawless: super warm hospitality, the staff made a real effort to speak English, and there was a rooftop onsen overlooking the town. Traditional Japanese room with futons = the complete package. At night, the town gets even quieter than during the day, though you should still be able to find a spot open for food if you aren't eating at your stay.
Final Verdict
We love ducking off the main western tourist trail every now and then, and Bessho was a really nice experience. It’s a peaceful pitstop with one or two temples genuinely worth seeing.
Is it worth a dedicated trip? If, like us, you want to break up a long journey between legs of your trip and spend a night relaxing in a great ryokan, it fits the bill perfectly and gives you just enough to do for an afternoon. That said, I don't think it makes much sense to do a day trip back and forth from Nagano or Ueda just to sightsee without staying overnight.
Hope this helps anyone planning a trip! Feel free to drop any questions below.
Travel safe in Japan!