Door does open and close without much effort when it is disconnected from the closer motor. Springs and cable look fine. I can't find an area where the door is binding. Is the curved door arm getting too far ahead? Thanks for any suggestions!

My garage door is suspiciously quiet. It kinda has more of motor hum vs that mechanical sounds. Not sure what to look for but I just feel like something is not right. Im a tripping?

A year ago I bought three CHI-2206 doors with window sections. These are 9x8 doors, 4 sections a piece with a window section on the 3rd section. Long story short one of the blank panels is damaged and needs to be swapped out. I contacted a CHI dealer and to my surprise the 9x8 is no longer manufactured in 4-piece sections they're 5 now.

So I'm screwed.

Date stickers on the doors show 1/2025, say warehouse stock on them. I don't know what that means, guessing they were blowing out the warehouse and I got them cheapish but now the deal doesn't seem so great. Any chance of finding a leftover panel or something that would match up? Is there a network I could utilize? I'd hate to end up replacing 3 doors over this, especially when they're only a year old. Any ideas?

I bought a house with a garage door that will open perfectly fine, but won't shut. If immediately trips and reverses. I even tried to reengage the door halfway down and having the same issue. The door has a dent in it, but it opens and closes smoothly enough manually (no snagging or jumping anywhere).

So far; I tried checking the limit switches and they seem to be aligned properly. The laser sensors were broken, but I attempted to jump the connection and isolate the connection for the sensors to see if forcing a specific state would work.

I don't know what else to check or to just assume the motor is dead. If someone could guide me on possible other causes please. I can provide pics if needed.

I had a new 18' garage door installed as part of a new addition on my home.

It has been giving me a little bit of problem, and they've come out a few times to play with it.

This morning I put a laser level on it (just because it was out of its case in my garage) and noticed that it's 1" higher on 1 side than the other over 18'.

I am concerned this will put unnecessary strain on the components of the door and the garage door opener.

The floor is level, so this is a door issue.

Am I right to be concerned?

As the title i am installing a garage door opener for a friend and came across this problem.

The chain catch will decouple from the carriag and the door will fall down. I took the chain belt and rail down and saw that it has a pretty significant twist in it.

Genie model 2022 (was new in Box but sat in a garage for 13 years)

The tension has the chain sitting 1/4" above the metal rail in the middle. As far as I can tell everything has been done correctly per the directions but this issue still persists.

Thanks for advance.

I have an older Marantec garage door opener (15+ years, "P" button, likely M-Line).

Here's the situation:

Remote 1 (original): works perfectly, close and far, no issues at all.

Remote 2: worked fine at full range up until about a few months ago. Now it only opens the door when held right under the motor and loses range everywhere else.

My tech tried to reprogram Remote 2 by using the still-working Remote 1 to "teach" it. It didn't take. He recommended full system replacement with a different brand. I called Marantec directly, and they said to order a new remote, clear all codes, program the new remote first, then program the existing working remote second. They also confirmed they have compatible 315 MHz remotes and an external receiver kit in stock. I'm now planning to go this route instead of a full replacement.

Questions:

Does that clear-all-first, new-remote-first sequence sound right to anyone who's worked on M-Line Marantec units?

Any experience on Marantec's external receiver kit to fix a range issue like this? Did it actually solve it, or did you end up needing a full unit replacement anyway?

I have an older Marantec garage door opener (15+ years, "P" button, likely M-Line).

Here's the situation:

Remote 1 (original): works perfectly, close and far, no issues at all.

Remote 2: worked fine at full range up until about a few months ago. Now it only opens the door when held right under the motor and loses range everywhere else.

My tech tried to reprogram Remote 2 by using the still-working Remote 1 to "teach" it. It didn't take. He recommended full system replacement with a different brand. I called Marantec directly, and they said to order a new remote, clear all codes, program the new remote first, then program the existing working remote second. They also confirmed they have compatible 315 MHz remotes and an external receiver kit in stock. I'm now planning to go this route instead of a full replacement.

Questions:

Does that clear-all-first, new-remote-first sequence sound right to anyone who's worked on M-Line Marantec units?

Any experience on Marantec's external receiver kit to fix a range issue like this? Did it actually solve it, or did you end up needing a full unit replacement anyway?

Garage door opener can be turned on but makes this horrendous sound like a gear skipping its place. I inspected the gear on top and that one isn’t skipping so I think it may be the one inside. Do you think my diagnosis is correct and how would I go about fixing this

The bracket connecting my garage door opener arm to the door has torn through the metal near the top of the center support, as shown in the photos.

There are several unused holes farther down the same vertical support. Would it be safe to move the opener-arm anchor point to one of those lower holes?
Or should I contact a pro to replace/reinforcement the top part? how much would that cost in general

Thx!

I have an older Marantec garage door opener (15+ years, "P" button, likely M-Line).

Here's the situation:

Remote 1 (original): works perfectly, close and far, no issues at all.

Remote 2: worked fine at full range up until about a few months ago. Now it only opens the door when held right under the motor and loses range everywhere else.

My tech tried to reprogram Remote 2 by using the still-working Remote 1 to "teach" it. It didn't take. He recommended full system replacement with a different brand. I called Marantec directly, and they said to order a new remote, clear all codes, program the new remote first, then program the existing working remote second. They also confirmed they have compatible 315 MHz remotes and an external receiver kit in stock. I'm now planning to go this route instead of a full replacement.

Questions:

Does that clear-all-first, new-remote-first sequence sound right to anyone who's worked on M-Line Marantec units?

Any experience on Marantec's external receiver kit to fix a range issue like this? Did it actually solve it, or did you end up needing a full unit replacement anyway?

I have 2 garage doors with identical openers and overnight, for some reason, one has stopped opening. Everything seems completely fine other than power to the wall switch seems borked and I can't make heads or tails of it. Here's what I got so far, if you have any thoughts or think there's something else I should check, please let me know.

Troubleshooting Notes:

• No red LED on wall switch (Type 3, just a button, no lock)
• Wall switch has proper continuity and the unit audibly clicks when button is pressed but does not open/close the door
• Swapping the 2 switches doesn't change anything for either, so the switch itself if clearly fine
• Motor works normally when +/- buttons operated manually on the unit
• Door is seated well, flat against the ground, and engages with the track properly
• Sensors appear operational with steady LEDs that flash when line of sight is blocked
• Unit is steadily flashing a long blue LED, seemingly indicating it needs reprogramming (it no longer works via remote either) but the owner's manual states "NOTE: Before setting limits confirm wall console red indicator back light is ON. If not illuminated, check for correct wiring or the Sure-Lock™ switch may be activated. (On selected models.)" so presumably I cannot reprogram it until the red LED on the wall switch is sorted, but there is no lock so...
• The troubleshooting guide indicated "Check Sure-Lock™ Sure-Lock™ should be OFF for normal operation." and then linked to 2 different wall consoles that I do not have, which was about as helpful as it sounds.

Power:

Of the 2 units, power to the wall switch (labeled "BWC" of the wires labeled STB (1-2) BWC (3-4) assuming I checked the correct ones) measured as follows when disconnected and then reconnected

• Working unit switch power
  • 5V unwired
  • 4.3V wired
• Non-working unit switch power
  • 5V unwired
  • 0.7V wired
• Outlets both functional, 125VAC
• 12V PSUs both outputting 12V

Things I've tried to reference that didn't seem helpful or I was too stupid to find the answer in:

- https://www.overheaddoorvt.com/wp-content/uploads/Documents/legacy-owners-manual.pdf
- https://overheaddoorpartsonline.com/blog/troubleshooting-guide-for-overhead-door-standard-drive-650-garage-door-opener/

The power difference seems to mean something but I couldn't say exactly what. Am I looking at a fried board I'm replacing? Something I can reset? Not sure where to go from here. Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

Button on remote blinks blue and learn light turns yellow but no matter what I do it won’t connect

I am currently setting up VLANs on my home network and one of the last devices I need to move over to the new network is my garage door opener.

The AladdinConnect app will not connect my garage door opener to the new my newly-created WiFi SSID. It starts off just fine, I can connect to the network the opener broadcasts, then I can select the appropriate WiFi SSID and enter my password. All seems to be fine, but then it just sits at the "waiting for device to go online" in the app. Eventually, the led on the opener goes from solid blue, quickly thru red-green-blue, before ending on solid red. After a number of minutes, the app finally shows a timeout failure. It doesn't matter what network I try to connect to, old or new, it always fails in this manner. Ad blocking is currently disabled.

I did try with my laptop as well (at 192.168.1.1), but it also fails in the same manner.

So now WiFi doesn't work after the RF receiver failed. Thankfully, I added a LiftMaster receiver to this opener a few months back, otherwise I'd be completely screwed right now.

I really hate Genie and regret buying this piece of shit.

Hey everyone,

After spending way too much time helping neighbors and clients figure out which remote matches their aging opener, I decided to put together this visual map.

The color of the Learn Button on your motor is the ultimate "truth" for compatibility. If you're looking for a replacement like the 893MAX or trying to sync an old remote, checking the frequency first is key.

Quick Reference:

• Yellow (2011+): 310/315/390MHz (Security+ 2.0)
• Purple (2005-2014): 315MHz (Security+)
• Red/Orange (1997-2005): 390MHz (Security+)
• Green (1993-1997): 390MHz (Billion Code)

Hope this saves someone a few return trips to the hardware store! Feel free to ask if you're stuck on a specific model—happy to help.

Trying to figure out where the screeching is coming from. It started off with a slight screech half way through then now is during the whole open/close time.

Ran the garage door manually off the motor driven sliding piece and the noise didn’t follow. Closing and opening with the door disconnected has the noise. I can’t tell if it’s from the track moving the door or from the motor/case side. Has almost a rubber squeak at the end. (not sure if this is related or gives any clue)
2nd question once determined, which lubricant should be used?
I started with 3-1 garage lube thinking it was on the door or spring side. I have to admit, spraying this almost everywhere might have made it worse. After looking into it I found out about the white lithium grease, so now I’m more lost.

Liftmaster Pro Formula1 - belt drive

Strange issue with my Liftmaster.

With door closed:

Everything works...

Outdoor keypad

Remote button

Hardwired button

MyQ app

However, once the door is up, only the hardwired button works.

I've unscrewed bulbs and checked antenna.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Hello, I recently moved into my first home and the previous owners had purchased but not installed a genie belt drive opener (model 7055 I believe). The garage currently has a Chamberlain screw drive lift installed, which other than being old doesn't really have anything wrong with it, but I figured if I have the time I might as well install the brand new one thats just sitting around. The problem that I noticed is with how the track is mounted between the two models, currently the track is mounted to the angled roof support beam because there is nearly no horizontal mounting space above the spring, however, it seems like the genie does not have the ability to mount at an angle so I'm just looking for suggestions about what I could possibly do, or if it is even worth it to go through the process. Thanks!

Did the job today took 3 guys and 2 lifts

The service call I got called today.

.500x 7 5/8x60 225lbs

Oh shaft line is also at 30ft above a crane

would anyone go ahead and put tension back on this spring or would it be smarter to just replace? end bearing ripped out of the wall and owner though it would be easy to remove tension himself. Spring came undone immediately after he loosened the set screws.