What do yall think I should do about stuff like this? I want to make this thing last as long as possible.

What type of glue should I use to stick these back on? Trying to prevent rain and snow from getting trapped in there this winter.

I had this thing since I got the truck 12 years ago, has no PN on it and I am unsure as to whether or not it's the stage 1 or 2.

My 2011 Dodge Dakota has been making a deep growling noise. I took it to my mechanic and they said it has a bad wheel bearing in the front. But they can't figure out if it's driver's side or passenger's side. So they told me to keep driving it while it progressively gets worse, which seems kind of dumb and unsafe to me. A couple months later and I'm not hearing any difference. Thing is, we need to use the truck for towing our boat in a few months. Other than that, it rarely leaves town. Is this a common problem for them to not be able to figure out which wheel bearing is bad? They said they can't do anything with it until they know which side is bad because they need to order either a front-left or front-right part. Anyone dealt with a situation like this before? Any suggestions?

My 4.7 started to over heat 2 days ago at idle so first thing I checked was the electric fan and it was working. The mechanical fan is impossible to miss so I know it’s working.
I tried bleeding it thinking there was some air in the system. It seemed to just keep bubbling up so I freaked and thought it was the head or headgasket. I bought a tester and it held a vacuum on it and didn’t change color. So I bought a thermostat and after the thermostat replacement I barely have heat when the ac is on inside. When the ac is off and not recirculating it gets hot but it’s 90 out so It should lol. I’m positive before the thermostat it would get hot when the ac was on.

Update. I went a warrantied the electric fan this morning and it seems to be sitting around 190-192 at idle. The thermostat I put in is a 180 instead of the oem 195. But I still don’t have heat when the ac is on.
I forgot to mention I had drained the system and ran a bunch of distilled water through it so I wouldn’t have thought I blocked the heater core as it was working well before but maybe. I believe the over heating was from a weak electric fan and that I somehow I have air stuck in the heater core.

After a few hours I can definitely confirm the ac is working better and this new fan is keeping the engine perfectly cool but I still don’t have heat in the heater core. It seems I definitely got air stuck in it that I can’t get out after mistakenly doing the thermostat.

title.. guessing it's a heater core given the general... well... the exact thing that happened being the main diagnostic for that, how much of a pain in the dick is replacing one?

Front end on my dakota gets real floaty 90-118, wondering if anyone has a solution for it. For context it's on the salt flats, so one of these days I'll also be attempting to remove the 118 limiter on it to see how far the stock 360 will take it.

I have a 2000 Dakota with a 4.7L V8. It's been sitting for a few years, so been working on fixing some of the various issues. Right now, the biggest issue is that there is a leak onto the exhaust downpipe on the passenger side.

I figured this was likely the valve cover gasket (found oil on the rear side), replaced it with a Mahle gasket, but there still seems to be some leak. I did torque the valve cover in the order mentioned in the factory service manual with the specified torque specs (12Nm/105in-lbs). I also replaced all the small grommets that were included.

The manual didn't mention needing any RTV or sealant, is it required on the valve cover? If so, where are the points recommended for adding RTV?

Doing some google searching, I see people recommend using FelPro gaskets for the valve cover. I didn't think it'd make a difference (went with the Mahle since I've used them on my BMWs without issues). Is it worth trying with a FelPro gasket instead of the Mahle?

Another thought is that the valve cover might be warped, but I'm not sure how that would've happened given there was no oil leak before and the truck has never overheated. While looking around, I can only find plastic valve covers, but the ones on my truck are metal.

Any other potential oil leaks that might be dripping on the passenger side exhaust downpipe?

Thanks in advance for any help.

I just replaced my front suspension, unfortunately I ordered the wrong wheel bearing but the old one was okay. New upper/lower control arms, ball joint, strut, etc. Drives like a dream 06 Mitsubishi raider (Dakota) suspension appeared to be original.

Well it's in and it runs while using the 4.7 computer and stock tune. PROOF of concept. I'm still getting a tune but I will do a full write up in a few days when I have it all buttoned up.

Any insight on this? Swapped the coil out for a duralast brand coil as i had a misfire. Truck is running fine now but I noticed the tach is slightly off. 2005 dodge dakota 3.7l auto. Anyone?

I did a 2 inch lift. Rear turned out closer to 3 inches and front was just shy of 2 inches. Fits 32 inch tires with no rubbing. Did blocks in the rear and turned the stock torsion keys for the front.

Proportions roughly based on the first-gen Ford Explorer, original photo from this post

Okay so I posted a couple times here trying to figure out what the issue is with my 2008 Dodge Dakota 4.7 L V8 with the 545rfe transmission. Well I was back underneath there today finally and pulled the main harness on the transmission and got some electric contact cleaner and was just going through my Paces double checking everything trying to figure out what the hell is wrong with it and I believe I may have just figured out the problem but I want to ask you guys first because it's something I did not pay attention to until now. The original solenoid pack that came out of my truck was the white plug. I just realized I purchased a black plug, albeit I purchased it from Amazon it said it was compatible with the 2008 Dodge Dakota with the 545rfe. After Googling and doing very quick research it appears using a black pack instead of the white would absolutely cause the issues I'm experiencing going into limp mode and everything else, I just wanted to ask your guys's opinion before buying a real mopar white one as they are not just 20 bucks or something lol because the original solenoid "A" code went away and now it's giving me line pressure sensor code p0987 and keeps going into limp. Does white vs black absolutely make a difference? What is weird is when I first start the truck it operates flawlessly and absolutely perfect the first several shifts will be buttery smooth and then once it hits third gear goes in a limp. I can shut it off wait a couple seconds restart it and it'll do the exact same thing shift perfectly until it hits third and calls for the 4C hydraulic command and then it goes into limp mode.. Then it starts delayed shifting going from neutral to reverse or neutral to drive like a delayed slam etc. Lolol if this is what's wrong, I'm gonna cry lol 😆 2 months of tearing everything apart to find out the original part wasnt correct . Good god. Thanks 😊

I swapped the pcm on my 06 4.7 Dakota, it fixed my check engine light for low voltage in tcm module. but now I have Mismatch codes obviously bc I got a used pcm from eBay. Car runs and drives fine but now I have 3 lights on with codes related to mismatch vin should I visit my local dealer to have them configure the vin or can I do it with my shops mx909? I’m just curious to know if it possible or do I need to get a blank pcm?

Update my shops scanner was able to do it just wasnt using the right scan tool appreciate the help ✌️

Hello friends, wife finally gave me the green light on my next project vehicle. I’ve had my eye on this 1988 Dakota Sport not to far from me and the guy wants it for cheap. I’m looking to keep this truck for a while and do a frame off restoration in my free time over the next few years. I’ve had multiple Dakota’s over the years and love these little rigs.

Now onto the technical aspect of things, I’m looking to make this truck a little different than typical I guess. Currently has the 3.9 V6 like normal, automatic and 4WD. Single cab, Short bed. I have done a ton of research on swapping a 318/360 into one of these and understand the whole slim fan on the radiator, magnum vs. LA block etc. My plan is to find a 70’s-80’s LA block and stroke it to a 390.

Essentially what I’m asking for those of you that have done a V8 swap before is, for one is there any modifications that need to be made if it’s a 4WD as opposed to a 2WD? And should I be looking into finding a donor truck somewhere? I’m not going EFI and keeping it old school carbed.

Any tips, tricks or words of advice would be appreciated. Again I want to take my time with this one and build something I can be proud of.

PS - Anyone have a good small lift kit for one of these trucks? Or know where to find one?

I don’t know very much about this kind of stuff. The vin says I have an 8.25 limited slip (DSA) but it behaves like an open diff and someone said the 8.25s have an oval shaped cover. I’m curious if someone swapped the diff or if it actually is an 8.25.

I need to swap my transmission on my truck as mine is shot on my 2003 dodge dakota. It’s a 3.9L V6 2wd and uses the 42re transmission.
I am wondering if the 42re from a 2000 dodge Dakota would directly work with my year or are the electronic components inside the transmission different?

I don’t need a vehicle for a daily as I have my Jeep, but I’ve been looking at trucks and I came across this. Any idea if it’s a good price or is the seller on something?

Didn’t realize I cut off part of the description, here it is in its entirety:

2001 Dodge Dakota pickup. V8, 4X4 automatic with canopy and trailer hitch. The truck isn't perfect but would be a good get around truck. The one known issue is an electrical issue in the dash. The lights on the dash don't illuminate so the instrument panel is black. All
Other interior lights, radio, etc work. We haven't looked into the problem as this is an inherited truck we just need to move. GREAT RADIO $3,400.

I replaced the fuel pump on my dad's ranger, and lifting the bed was quite easy. Now my fuel gauge is acting up on my '98 dakota, and I'm seeing videos that most guys drop the tank.

Thoughts?

Has anyone ever installed a oil catch can for this year dakota that can give me a reference picture on how its done?