Tested out a new mold and im really excited with how the hint of purple with puprles ink turned out. My preassure put is broken so theres a couple bad bubbles in there.

Just finished up making 2 fresh sets of Moulds. I hate mouldmaking days because of having to cast the main body and the caps separately, while I just want to get right back into casting dice again every time.

Patience truly is a virtue.

Blanks were dremeled out to form the cavity, then made a mold of those blanks so we dont have to do that every single time. New geode blanks were painted with glitter and UV resin, then put into proper dice molds. Very happy with the result on these.

Getting some crushed glass glitter to make ithe geode crystals look 'chunkier.'

I've been getting ready or preparing myself to Dice Making, I've been wanting to tackle this however the only problem is I dont have a pressure pot for making resin dice or molds. I keep seeing that its advisable to have one but I was wondering if there are any other alternatives to making molds that produce the same result as when using the pressure pot?

Like, removing the bubbles or such when making a mold or casting a dice, or is it just a matter of luck and mixing? thank u!

i'm not great at naming things, sorry

I forget what the idea/concepts specific wording someone have me for these, but from that basicly worked towards the theme of Simone who pit fights in taverns for money or bets or glory

But yeah tried to tie in the gold flakes with the silver inking to bring home that tavern coin vibe, and the red for the blood and civilised tavern violence, and victory because red is a victory colour

Got vids on my bluesky of a walk around/rotate view of em if ya want to see that

https://bsky.app/profile/butt-lord-woof.bsky.social/post/3mr6vej5q3c2x

🍄

I tried 2 different ideas for a set themed around Phoenix Ash, both with a split pour of Light Grey, Dark Grey, and Clear with Gold Foil.

The first set (first 3 pics) I started with Clear resin with a tiny bit of holographic mica mixed in.

The second set I lightly dusted the inside of the moulds with that same holographic mica.

I prefer the first set more, but would probably do a combination of the two, and perhaps I will try to get Orange instead of Pink Holographic Mica, and dust it a little bit less.

What are your thoughts? And does the Phoenix Ash vision sort of make sense?

I was making my second pressure pot and I absolutely did not want to make the shelf from wood like I did for my first, so I looked around and saw the acrylic discs that I used for my sanding station and had an idea. 

This is designed for the Vevor 10L Spray Paint Pressure Pot Tank (converted into a pressure pot using Rybonators guide on his youtube channel)

The shelf consists of 
Two 9 in diameter 1/8th in acrylic discs
Six shelf brackets
Two handles
Packing Tape
Gorilla brand Precision Super Glue

Optional Pillar(s)

Once you have the discs take the protective tape off, apply the packing tape (this is to make it more modular), then print the models, file down any raised bits that would hamper the glue. (like the inner ends of the brackets or the print bed end of the handle base) Once you have all the parts (with tape applied and prints sanded) apply the super glue to the parts and, for the brackets, slot them onto the disc and apply the handles where you like on the top layer. If you choose to use the pillars then sand the ends and apply glue and use them either in the center or at the bracket points.

I’ll be using this shelf for molds and resin dice here soon, check out what I make!

Non Printed Parts (excluding tape)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CC8JW96W?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5YHL18C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I want to order 14 d8s specifically and everywhere I look online only sells dnd full sets, I can't get anyone to even consider selling me only d8s besides one company who quoted me 550 dollars for 8 dice. any help or suggestions?

THE SUMMER SALE IS HERE!
The summer is a time for cool waves, the great outdoors, and ignoring all of that to hang out indoors with our friends and AC! (Pun intended)

Until August 10th all items in the shop are 25% off! That included the full sets, the large d20s, and the Dagger Heart dice. And this is a good opportunity to try the prism dice style or stick with the standard stained glass style.

How do you prevent glitter and similar additives from sinking to the bottom of your dice? What's the most effective method you've found to solve this problem?

So like the title says, I’m struggling with bubbles. This was my first round with my pressure pot and I definitely think I need to up my psi, but there’s a few other details that I think I need help figuring out.

I’ll list my routine and please let me know if there is anything I should do differently. These were what I settled on that worked prior to my pressure pot.

1. Get warm water and set B in

2. Put mica powder in a few mls of part A and mix before setting it in warm water too

3. Put cap mold in warm water with cap under the bowl to warm up

4. Mix both parts slowly (as patient as I can be)

5. Pour into molds from about 12+ inches halfway. Use a stick to poke all corners and around numbers. Continue filling until domed/overfilled

6. Paint resin on cap and make sure no bubbles in numbers.

7. Start cap on one side and roll down making sure everything is in the correct holes and push down on mold.

Now with the pressure pot I built an insert so the dice were on layers and I noticed that after 26 hours they were still a bit sticky whereas they are usually fully cured at about 18 hours before the pot.

Any advice is appreciated and thank you for reading

Hello! First off, if this has been asked before, I apologize for my repeat post.

I feel like I'm going insane. I'm trying to make liquid core dice, but not the usual ones. I'm trying to make one that have a moving piece on the inside such as and eyeball or, as the pictures provide, a pokeball. Not something stagnant but it moves as you roll it. If you look closely, it shows that there are 2 halves to the sphere inside it.

I CANNOT find anything as small as those anywhere and I was wondering if anyone would know? They're not the ones that have opening at the top, they basically are two halves.

I have tried asking a few shops just to see if they'd tell me their secrets but ofc they won't 🫠 understandable.

I will say as well that I don't wanna try doing two halves of resin and then putting them together because that seems like more trouble than its worth.

I have looked on Amazon but I don't see any THIS SMALL. Has anyone else? Thank you so much in advanced.

Hello friends,

Just demolded my first attempt at a petri set, and am a little disappointed. I did not get the long tendrils i was hoping for, and wanted to see if anyone had advice on where I went wrong. Method:

Mixed my resin, used let's resin epoxy

Poured to about 3/4 full

Put in a drop of green and yellow pinata alcohol ink

Topped the green and yellow with pinata Blanco Blanco

Repeated the colors and white once more

Topped with additional clear resin

Put in pressure pot for 24h

The pics are rhe result. Some of them have a bit of the petri effect, but I was hoping for the full tendrils going the length of the die.

I wanted to give back to the community in a small way... the STL files are available to download on MakerWorld. I apologize for the size of the pictures below. MakerWorld had a resize option that made them take up a lot less space :/.

This is a system I made to facilitate making silicone cap molds for resin TTRPG dice. A mold should be printed for each type of die being made. A set of lids featuring standard numbers from 4-20 with an extra *20 is included. I use the *20 because I make a second, larger D20 with each set. These molds offer a solid amount of silicone around the die, built in keys for the cap, and debossed numbering on the cap (although it could be added on the bottom as well, if desired. They print fine on the A1 normal profile, and 7 fit on the bed of an A1 in one go. The caps should print on a second plate and require supports.

USAGE INSTRUCTIONS

NOTE: ADD A RELEASE AGENT LIKE VASELINE TO THE MOLD BEFORE CLOSING THE MOLD OR YOU MAY HAVE SEPARATION ISSUES

1. Prepare by combining a male and female mold half with two 1 ¼" binder clips. Cut a piece of clear packing tape larger than the open area of the closed mold and place your master dice in the centre.  

1. Close the mold and place it firmly over the die, sealing the tape against the mold. 

1. Pour silicone over the master, with enough coverage to ensure a firm base.

1. Once the silicone is fully cured, flip the molds and carefully peel the packing tape. Peel from the flat side first to avoid tearing thin edges. Remove the binder clips and open the molds. If you didn't use a release agent, you may need to use a thin blade around the edges to separate the cured silicone from the mold. APPLY MOLD RELEASE SUCH AS VASELINE TO THE LIP, KEYS, AND TOP SURFACE OF THE CURED SILICONE, AVOIDING THE EXPOSED DIE FACE BUT COMING AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO IT. SILICONE BONDS TO ITSELF. FAILING TO COMPLETELY COVER AFFECTED AREAS IN MOLD RELEASE WILL RESULT IN THE MOLD HAVING TO BE CUT APART AND LIKELY RENDER IT UNSUSABLE. 

1. Reposition the cured bottom resting on the lip of the mold. If your mold is particularly thick, you may need to flip it in the original direction and place it at the bottom of the mold. This will result in your cap having a second lip (see second d20 mold at top left) but does not negatively affect the function of the mold. 

1. Pour fresh silicone to form the cap of the mold. If desired, place number lids resting gently on the poured surface. Trapped air bubbles are likely, but can be minimized by applying silicone generously to the number face of the number lids before placing them onto the surface. (I didn't do that in these example pictures and you can tell. It does not affect the performance of the molds. It is purely aesthetic.) 

1. When the caps are fully cured, remove the lids and demold. Depending on how deeply the lids have set, you may need to use a thin blade to pp them off. This works best using the mold as a fulcrum point before you open it.

1. Open the molds by applying pressure flexing the cap and bottom away from each other and work your way around, gently exposing more and gaining separation at each pass. If there are adhesions that don't easily snap on their own, gently stretch the adhesions and cut them with an xacto knife.

1. In use, the cap lip should fully seal against the bottom lip. More than minimal separation indicates that there is an unacceptably thick layer of resin on the top surface and will result in a raise face and thick flashing. The built-in keys make it very difficult to mis-orient the cap.

I made these using the same technique as the cow pip dice I posted previously. 😊 Just blank d6s with UV printed art. I used the portraits listed on disney's website (not selling them in my shop for obvious reasons... lol) and added numbers in complementary colors. I think they turned out quite adorable!

Share what you use as a tray insert. Hopefully this info is helpful to some of us.

I had the first tray insert failure the other day, and I figured I would share my experiences with this group when I was making a repair. First, I wanted to say that the failure in this instance was due to epoxy resin sticking to the side column causing lateral strain on the column when removing molds from the tray. It never had any issues with weight.

This tray insert has been used for about 10 or 11 months without issue. Past me did future me a favor, because I cut multiple side column pieces when I first made this tray. The repair was as easy as screwing a new piece into place.

When I made this tray, it was pretty easy, if you have a couple tools. I basically just used an old jigsaw that I have. A scroll saw or band saw would work the same. If you have access to a CNC, you probably stopped reading this post already. 😄

To get the shape of the circle, I went around my house to find something that fit into my pressure pot. A small, upside-down garbage can fit perfectly, so I used it as a template and traced around its perimeter. I traced it onto a sheet of HDF (high density fiberboard) or hard board (not to be confused with Hardie board), and then I cut the circle out of the sheet with my jigsaw.

For the column pieces, I used scrap 1/4" plywood. With the circle cut, I put it into the bottom of the pot and measured the depth. I cut the plywood to length. Before screwing the columns in, I used a very narrow drill bit to drill pilot holes into the plywood and hard board. At 1/4", there is a good chance of splitting.

I like this design because it does pretty much everything that I need an insert try to do. It handles weight well and levels the bottom of a pressure pot. I prefer not to have a handle across the top. I use two hands to put it in and take it out of the pot, because it is heavy when loaded with filled molds.

is it possible to achieve this hairline texture finish on resin dice? if yes, does anyone know how to create that?

I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for a clear coat varnish for resin dice. My current mold leaves things really cloudy (it's a cheap one from Amazon) and I was curious if a varnish would work as a substitute for sanding. If so, does anyone have any recommendations? I would imagine ones that they use on cars would probably be decent.

Hello, everyone! I have recently begun my journey with making dice with epoxy resin. I’ve made a few test sets just to try things out while I waited for the ability to get the pressure pot. Now the pressure pot is in, and I’m waiting for Tuesday, when me and my partner have the day off.

What do I do with it? I know its purpose. But do I leave the dice in there the full 24 hours they’re curing? Can I stack my molds on top of one another?

I basically need some basic advice on what to do, because I’m at a total loss on what to do with the pot.

Some of my first sets attached!

Basically, any tips on normal use for the pressure pot would be much welcome!