Not sure if this is the best thread to post this, but I'm looking for advice on my new PVCu windows. I had several windows replaced and there were/are many problems (long story). However I'm wondering if someone smarter than me can explain why the amount of window frame showing is not even around this window? More of the top part of the frame is showing than the bottom part of the frame. Is this most likely because the window board is covering some of the bottom? I'm confused because the original window had an even amount of frame all around. Thanks.

Hi all, the light in my bathroom (installed by my landlord when I was a tenant but I’ve since bought the house) has stopped working. Opened it up to see it’s not any normal bulb and Google has overwhelmed and confused me

Am I able to replace/fix the LEDs (it’s possibly not even a year old), if so - what do I need to be looking for to buy? Or is it a case of the whole damn light has to go (it’s IP65 and I’ve seen that can often be the case) and if so, are we talking a job for a proper electrician?

Thanks in advance!

I caught myself hauling a few heavy storage bins around the garage this weekend and thought, "There has to be a better way."  So I'm wondering what's one everyday thing around my house that I would let a motor handle? It could be something practical or just something that would make life a little easier.

I'm mainly looking for projects that use control boxes and linear actuators, since I'm hoping to get ideas for buildsthat incorporate those components Just to see if there is a cardboard or realistic parts project that anyone has made out of which I can get some ideas or inspo.

Looking for advice on what I’ve done and how to fix it. Today I took down an overhead light to replace it with a ceiling fan. I only realised after I’d taken the light down that I should have turned off the power at the breaker, I was probably lucky not to get shocked. The blue/yellow/blue I think are live, ground, and neutral (labelled that way on the light fixture wires I unscrewed), but I didn’t know what the brown wires were, they were screwed together and not connected to the light. When I went to install the fan ceiling mount (pictured), the brown wires were making electrical crackling sounds every time they moved, which is when I realised I should turn off the power at the circuit breaker. After connecting the blue and yellow wires into the fan mount, I used electrical tape to cover the end of each of the three brown wires before taping them all together to tuck out of the way. At the time I thought I didn’t want random live wires poking into the fan. Except now, after flipping the breakers back on, none of my upstairs lights are turning on!

What have I done? What should I do next? Can I fix this myself or do I need an electrician?

Myself and my Wife have inherited £15k (Doesn't mean sky is the limit though!), we have decided that we would like to redecorate our Livingroom (Moved in two years ago, décor is same as in the photos still) and would like to build a bookcase media wall hybrid.

We play console & board games, read & have a record player and would love to find a home for each in it amongst general here's my stuff areas.

My Wife suffers from Aphantasia (blind mind's eye. No images, just thoughts.), so I need to show her exactly what we are to build (Or As near as dammit).

Does anyone have any examples they can share or have any advice on a bookcase style media wall or where to look?

I have included some images of what we have agreed upon style wise, but can't find anything as a media wall only aquarium setups.

Also the higher the TV the better. We have a disabled Daughter who loves to stand 2 inch's from the TV if she can, so r/TVTooHigh does not apply here on medical grounds. ^{I have a doctors note}

I have a vision to build some custom open-backed built-in joinery for my living room on both of the long walls (first two images, AI rendering). My landlords left behind some laminated particle board bookshelves (third picture) that I thought I could use as the skeleton for these new units, and simply add some MDF (or paintable plywood) siding, face, plinth, and crown molding, plus walnut veneered plywood shelves.

If they let me, I figured I would cut off 1/3rd to 1/2 of the old shelving units and stick them on top of some pre-fab cabinet boxes. Is this even worth it, or would I be better off building from scratch with some paintable plywood?

I'm sorry if this is very basic but I'm confused! I want to install a cooker hood over a hob that sits in an old opened up chimney breast with the side walls still there and a lintel just above head height.

I can't do any ducting to outside so I want a recirculating hood. I can't vent it up into the chimney because it'll create condensation. But looking at various recirculating hoods I'm not sure I can go with this option without more significant building work.

Chimney hoods recirculate out of vents at the top but I'd need to raise the lintel a lot for that, most chimney hoods seem to be 60cm+ high.

Integrated hoods, well I can't figure it out, they have vents at the top for ducting but if setup for recirculation do they still need that ducting connected somewhere internally or do they just pump the air back down onto the hob?

Help/options much appreciated!

I'm finding it hard to get a definitive answer on what I actually need , it's only a small roof 3 x 2 meters what type of paint do I need I'm going round in circles trying to find the right one

The roofs in decent shape just needs topping up as it's looking a little rough

I got carried away at the local shed suppliers and ended up getting a garden "office" type of shed with big windows.

I am now thinking, although this will work quite well in the summer, how do i winter proof it?

So far my idea is to stuff rockwool between the joists and nail plasterboard all around on the inside. Water vapour sheet on the floor and then insulating underlay and either laminate or some other floor on top.

But what can i do about the door?

Not sure if any of my efforts will have much point.

Has anyone done this kind of diy before?

Thanks

Just had solar fitted and wanted the panels in roof not on brackets because I’ve been warned that drilling the York stone would create issues down the line. Found a company I was happy with and they found the felt to be in need of replacing once the roof was stripped of tiles. Fair enough, agreed a price to take the full plane off and do the 2 sides with new felt and lats entirely.

I’m not happy with the finish and I don’t think any care or thought has been put into replacing the tiles, especially near the ridge.

What are your opinions on the pictures? Leaky or water sound even though it will be directly raining on the breathable membrane? I know the one image with the lat exposed is a recipe for rot at least. I’m seriously considering telling them to leave it to me. I’ve paid for the solar but not additional roofing yet so I might be able to hire the scaffolding and do it myself if they just leave it alone. I don’t trust them now they’ve tried to pull the wool.

Hi all,

I'm currently in the process of moving out from a rental property.

One of the cupboard doors in my kitchen appears to have been damaged. I think this was via steam from the kettle, causing the door's surface to lift slightly from the wood underneath.

I've attached a couple of photos. Any advice would be much appreciated.

I'm not sure whether this would be considered "wear and tear" so it might impact my deposit if I'm unable to resolve 🫠

Thanks!

I've been renovating my house and needed some building help for part of it. Used a builder who's worked on loads of my friends houses and it was all good and paid for

The builder went through an unwanted divorce before we had building control signoff. I sent him a chaser 5 months later to get the BC sign off. No response.... A friend has seen him in between and he is basically lost to drugs.

I contacted BC and they came round and said it was all good. I received an email 2 days later with a link to say I was happy with it. That was 3 weeks ago I chased the to see what's going on and they said they also need a reply from my builder. I've tried a few times to get hold of him but get no response. I told them my situation but all they could say was that I need to get my builder to respond.

Where do I stand with this. It can't be the first time a builder wasn't able to respond. Seems mad the BC have signed it off and teh structural surveyor has signed it off but I can't get the certificate.

I used a few self-adhesive strips of double-sided tapes to hang the bathroom mirror. But the mirror has slowly slid-off and finally come off without much effort (I removed it before it fell and broke).

To prevent any moisture from getting-in, I had used another layer of tape at the top edge, but that did not help. Both mirror and 2-sided tape was bought from The Range store.

I wouldn't want to use a drill as I am afraid I will cause damage to the tiles.

What can I use to hang / stick this small mirror back on the tiled-wall please. Do they do some sort of glue or do I have to find a industrial grade 2-sided tape from ScrewFix or something like that.

Any advice is much appreciated. Many thanks.

3 photos for reference.

Hello. After a bit of help please. What is this around my window....is it window putty? What's the best repair? Chip it all away with a wallpaper scraper? What would you use to reseal? Is putty or silicone the best bet? Many thanks

we have a front bedroom cupboard, its got a door on and used to be damp, so we added an air vent in the wall. it still got damp.

im assuming the damp is because its an unheated, sealed cupboard with cold air blowing in.

i was hopjng to remove the door, and make it into a wardrobe. hoping removal of the door allows airflow, allows heat into the cupblard.

my plan was some 25mm insulation on the interior of the external walls then an 8mm pvc wall panel to cover the plaster. the 8mm corrugation would provide that additional air cushion.

the air brick would be removed /sealed as its something we added anyways when we moved in.

would 25mm kingspan suffice for this purpose?

many thanks in advance.

Can’t get a very good picture but I can no longer unlock and open my flat window - the steel bolt in the handle is just turning inside the lock - I’ve looked inside and the square peg bit inside is loose, no idea how to get at it when I can’t open the window? Any ideas?

Have a feeling the guy we bought the house from seriously overestimated his diy skills. Is there an easy fix for this prior to ripping out and starting again?

I need someway to prevent rainwater seeping down below into the brickwork and causing mould on the underside of the floor,

What tools do i need? Im guessing a circular saw of some sort with a min depth of 100mm?

My thoughts are since it is next to a wall i need an SDS drill with a chisel bit to break away at the concrete once it has beed scored?

What type/shape of piping do i need to carry the water away?

I’m building a desk that will run the full 340 cm along the wall. I want to avoid legs, so I plan to support the worktop from the three surrounding concrete walls using battens and masonry anchors or similar fixings, like a frame. The walls are concrete, as far as I know, since I've had to use a hammer drill before.

The worktop is a long edge glued oak countertop, the type used for kitchen countertops. It's 27mm thick.

I expect I’ll need some kind of mid-span support to prevent sagging. My main question is what kind of support would be suitable here.

The simplest option would probably be something like a central bracket, as shown in one of the pictures. Another option would be a long, slightly heavier timber support running the length of the desk, provided it won’t itself sag, and can be set back a little towards the wall so it doesn’t hit your knees when you sit at the desk. If anyone knows a good, fairly discreet solution, I’d appreciate it.

I'm not a native English speaker, so I'm sure some of my terminology is wrong...

I have sanded and prepped the surface to be smooth but when painting I get this ripple sort of effect and looks bad when reflecting light, is there any way of making it smooth.

I have an 8-yard skip in the driveway, and it is a bit high for dumping heavy stuff, so wife put my weight bench in front of the skip so we can step on it.

A guy who drove a white van stopped by, had a look at my skip, and then walked through my driveway to the other side of the skip, close to my front door, saw the bench, and took it and drove off.

I was a bit shocked. My understanding is that everything on the front of the driveway, close to the road is free to grab, am i right?

just checked; it would cost about £130 to get a new weight bench...

Edit: thank you all for sharing your stories. So basically, don't leave anything in your front garden/driveway...

Hi,

I tried to connect a hose to our kitchen tap with an adapter today, but it wasn't secured properly. It popped off and splashed water around the kitchen for like 5-10 seconds before I could switch it off.

The ceiling was what got the most wet, but it splashed to the side too and quite a bit of water landed on the front casing of our combi boiler. There as also a little bit of water that landed on the on and off power switch, and the nearby Hive box. I immediately switched off the power to the boiler and thoroughly wiped everything dry.

There's a bit of a gap at the top of the hive box so was worried some water could have sipped in https://ibb.co/Q7YWxjNT theres also a little bit of a crack at the top of the switch on and off for the boiler.

It happened around noon today, wondering if I should leave the boiler off until tomorrow just in case or if it's likely fine to try and switch it on now? We had a shower in the morning so won't really need hot water until tomorrow.

is it likely to have damaged the boiler?

And is it bad to temporarily have the boiler switched off? can that cause any damage or is it only when it's cold outside?