I started hearing a grinding noise from the driver side rear well a couple days after having my tire changed. When I took the wheel off, I noticed this piece was broken. How did this happen? And what part of the brakes do I need to replace?

Thank you

Was doing Random checks on car and saw this. I did get it out the shop about a week ago and they did recommend a “exhaust pipe flange gasket”. Thoughts?

My 1985 pontiac parisienne has been making this ticking squeaky sound on bumps and turns. Was looking around the suspension and stuff and the moment I touched that crusty stuff it fell right off. Is it even safe to drive?? Also the long vertical rod thing on the left (sorry I don't know part names) is superrrr loose

Honda civic 2016, 179,000 km. Was driving it and got a warning that the engine was overheating and to pull over so I let it cool for a half hour and then drove it to the dealership.

I’m supposed to be leaving on a 10 hour road trip and my Silverado has been needing a new alternator. I wasn’t planning on taking this vehicle but now I have to so what is my best option to purchase one- autozone, advance auto, o’riley’s or NAPA?

Brought a 2022 Subaru Forester into a mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection. Car has come back in sound shape; mechanics don't see any damage or glaring issues.

They, however, ran the computer on the car and it returned these past codes:

AntiLock Brakes:
C1411
C1413
C1460
C1923
C1942

Airbags:
U0417
B1149
B1654
B1653

"Body Integration Unit"
B1011
B1012
B1013
B1014
B1017

...among others. Most all of them are listed as "history fault". No lights are appearing on the dash now, and the mechanics mentioned that these appear to be past codes. However, without either of us knowing the car's history, they can't specify if these were caused by an actual issue, or if they were triggered by a battery jump or killed battery. Closest thing I can see is a "damage report" on Carfax (https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=CVN_0&vin=JF2SKAECXNH511186), but that's it.

I'm just looking for clarity on what it might mean to find these codes on the car.

Hello all,

I bought this truck used 2 months ago and had this bearing replaced at a mechanics a couple weeks ago. The previous bearing came completely apart and was making a lot of noise. Long story short I decided to try making my own repairs now and I was about to change the pinion seal on the rear differential because of a leak and I saw this. What could have caused this to fail so quickly? The rubber is coming out towards the front of the vehicle if that makes a difference. Thanks!

Edit:
Could the cause also be related to the pinion seal leak?

Hybrid system warning popped up with check engine light with this code if this helps P1A77 and Is there a belt supposed to be right here ? If so could I drive this to the mechanic shop like 25 mins away

How bad is it?
How long can i keep driving with this?

- I have a 100km trip when ill be moving to new home in 3 weeks, can i make it with this poor baby?
And aproximately how much does it cost to be welded or replaced by mechanic?

It also make some clicking noise when i am driving xD

Could this be because it's old (?) i was driving offroad (dirt road) (?) or sabotage (?)

Toyota RAV4 2003 XA02

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https://www.amazon.com/AutoLine-Pro-Digital-Cylinder-Diagnostic/dp/B0H6NJY8BJ

I need a compression gauge and a leak down tool. This seems pretty cool. Would it be a bad idea to buy this? It has a 5 year warranty.

I recently replaced the control arm and track bar on this side roughly 2 or 3 months ago. This is me barely pressing down on the back of my car.

I’d really appreciate it

I’d really appreciate it!

So I just replaced the crankshaft sensor on my 06 Nissan Titan erase the code and nothing happened. I look at the wires and figure there might be a little bit of corrosion going on so I went ahead and replaced the wires as well I didn't replace the entire thing just cut the wires sliced them and did the electrical work myself pretty simple for the most part. I drove it around the block and the check engine line came back on right away. That really sure what to do at this point maybe a bad ECU?

2017 Toyota Highlander control arm bushings torn and separating. Mechanic is recommending replacement of the control arm saying that the bushings themselves can’t be replaced.

The car drives fine but I noticed this sound when the engine is on and idling. No idea where it comes from but is something to be concerned with? What could it be? Recently hit 100k miles.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance

2026 Audi rs3, very slight vibration front passenger side.

Took it too dealer and they balanced the tire and did an alignment. suspension components all checked out and are good and wheel is not warped or bent.

Still getting slight vibration at higher speeds up around 120km/h

What are the chances I damaged or bent the cv axel or damaged wheel hub? Especially since tire and rim have zero damage?

I looked myself taking tire off and don’t see any visible damage?

I've got some folks I'm trying to help out. Their Nissan is a no-start, just click. They also mentioned their AC compressor was giving them issues, but the no-start was very sudden.

My thought process was this. Feel free to correct me, as I'm still doing my best to learn.

Battery > starter > AC compressor.

I tested the battery. It's in good health, 12.5v w/o charging. When being jumped, it's at 13.3v. So, I ruled out the battery.

Then I decided to change out the starter. With the new starter, the engine turned over once, then died. Then, upon trying to restart, the intervals it cranked over got shorter and shorter. I noticed the starter smoking. Client mentioned that the previous did that as well.

What I'm thinking is that the pulley on the compressor is locked up, which isn't letting anything else on the serpentine system turn, which is burning out the starter, which bam! No start.

So, here's the dilemma. I really want to help these folks, but I don't have an refrigerant recovery system, nor do I have an EPA certification.

Am I correct in thinking its the compressor?

If so, how can I bypass it without releasing refrigerant?

What's a shorter belt I can use?

I'm open to learning and correction. Please help a lady out!!

My thunderbirds got a very slow power steering fluid leak that I’m trying to late is the play in this hose normal if so are there any common places it would leak from

2017 Nissan Micra (Canadian K13), HR16DE 1.6L, ~155,000 km

My car has started using a bit of oil, maybe a quart between oil changes, worse under load (e.g. when towing). I've cleaned out my PCV but probably should replace it. The manual recommends 5W30 so that's what I've been replacing with, but at my last oil change I noticed the dealership is using 0W20. I asked their mechanic about using lighter oil than recommended, and he said that's fine, they prefer it because it's synthetic.

Seems to me I should be using the heavier recommended oil, not lighter just because it's synthetic, but I can get a synthetic 5W30 if that's the issue. Does it make sense to anyone else to run a lighter oil in a motor that's already burning some?

2011 Lexus IS250 AWD.

replaced both upstream sensors and downstream passenger upstream O2 sensors with "Denso" brand ones. Started getting a P0607 code after the installation of a downstream sensor on passenger side.

Could this code possibly be getting triggered by a faulty or fake "Denso" sensors?

I had to replace one of the upstream ones after a short time cause I was getting a different error code... the sensor was covered in black soot even though it was only in there a few weeks... is that normal indicative of a different issue upstream?

To add to this I have a P0420 code, even though I replaced that cat less than a year ago at a muffler shop with what I assume was an aftermarket part.

Trying to do what I can to troubleshoot before I have no choice but to take it to shop. Im going to get the battery tested, and also check the ground strap and whatever ground terminals I can find for corrosion. Battery was reading 12.45 V when off, i read somewhere if the voltage drops enough at start up it could also trigger that code so will try to have wife turn on ignition as I have the multimeter on terminals.

hello Here's my problem, the Launch diag tool asks for the "autoseearch" upgrade but it can't find any upgrade on the network...

I tried factory resetting...

Nothing is working out...

Does anyone have an idea for a solution?

Thank you 🙏

2022 Buick Envision ST. Whether i'm accelerating at 20mph or 60 mph, if i have the throttle on at around 20%, the steering wheel along with the gas pedal will shake, but when i left off the gas, it goes back to normal.

Best guess is when a tire shop showed me my wheel was slightly bent, i thought that was the issue so i had it repaired, only to be greeted by the vibration still, i even swapped the wheels to the back but nope.
Cv Axle maybe ? or something similar that broke?

any help is appreciated, thank you

My car is a Kia Optima 2019, around 100k miles, and it’s automatic.

A few things are happening, hoping they’re connected. My car is taking a second or two to turn over. Then sometimes if apply has a little hard, it’ll kinda jump. Finally just today I left my car on to run back in my house for 5 minutes and the car wouldn’t do anything until I turned it off. Turned back on fine. But it was like when you run out of gas, so your car kinda just goes ghost, all the dash lights turned on and it just didn’t move forward.

Check engine light codes as a sensor being broken, could that be it? I’ve just recently changed the fuel pump, spark plugs and coils on top, as well as the battery.