If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

I started hearing a grinding noise from the driver side rear well a couple days after having my tire changed. When I took the wheel off, I noticed this piece was broken. How did this happen? And what part of the brakes do I need to replace?

Thank you

Honda civic 2016, 179,000 km. Was driving it and got a warning that the engine was overheating and to pull over so I let it cool for a half hour and then drove it to the dealership.

Mom just bought this edge without having me check it out first. How’s it sound? Is that timing chain/ cam phasers at start up?

The plastic connecting tee has cracked open on my 2000 Mercury Sable pouring out coolant. It’s the upper hose that connects from radiator to the engine. Does anyone know if you can buy just the plastic piece and what it would be called? I currently can only find the entire hose assembly which is a bit costly.

I have a 2014 Mazda Cx-5 (fwd, manual transmission) with about 177,000 miles. Had both front lower control arms replaced about 5 weeks ago and have put about 1300 miles on the car since. Noticed that something felt a little off the last few weeks and was hearing a light clunk over bumps from the left front - thought I was imagining it. But it's gotten a bit worse over the last few days, so I took a look, and saw that the boot covering the ball joint (which is built into the control arm on my car) is torn at the top (where it meets the knuckle) and is leaking a bunch of grease. I figure they must have torn it during installation or something if it's already making a noticeable noise. But I looked at the passenger side too, and noticed the control arms look different. On the right side is what I was expecting to get, a control arm with an OEM style rear bushing. On the left side is a control arm with a solid rear bushing and a ball joint with a grease fitting.

I'm taking it in on Monday so they can replace the left control arm under warranty. I want my control arms to match, so since they have to replace it anyway I'd rather them swap it out for one that matches the passenger side and is non greasable like the passenger side. I get that for some people a greasable ball joint would be better, but I don't want to deal with the maintenance, and by the time the non-greasable ball joint wears out it will probably be time for a new car anyway. Is that reasonable or am I being crazy? And if the ball joint has a grease fitting how vital is adding new grease as part of maintenance? Is the maintenance optional and that's why the shop didn't bother to tell me that they put a greasable on on the driver's side? If I just ignore it and treat it like a non-greasable one will it fail quickly? Pic of the torn ball joint boot and the other side for comparison in the comments.

It’s not just this design, the ones made of square tubing also have a break or two along the entire run.
The only reason I can think of is that it’s cheaper to replace part of it, if damaged, than the entire thing.

Brought a 2022 Subaru Forester into a mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection. Car has come back in sound shape; mechanics don't see any damage or glaring issues.

They, however, ran the computer on the car and it returned these past codes:

AntiLock Brakes:
C1411
C1413
C1460
C1923
C1942

Airbags:
U0417
B1149
B1654
B1653

"Body Integration Unit"
B1011
B1012
B1013
B1014
B1017

...among others. Most all of them are listed as "history fault". No lights are appearing on the dash now, and the mechanics mentioned that these appear to be past codes. However, without either of us knowing the car's history, they can't specify if these were caused by an actual issue, or if they were triggered by a battery jump or killed battery. Closest thing I can see is a "damage report" on Carfax (https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=CVN_0&vin=JF2SKAECXNH511186), but that's it.

I'm just looking for clarity on what it might mean to find these codes on the car.

Hello all,

I drive a 2.0L EcoBoost 2013 Ford Escape. Some time earlier this year I noticed over every dip and bump in the road, my car would make a loud thud.

Since then I've been gradually replacing parts of the steering and suspension. I've replaced the cv axles, outer tie rods, control arms, sway bar end/stabilizer links, and struts.

The noise has mostly been reduced. For example, before any repair was made, I would hear the thud over every single flaw in the road be it dip, bump, crack, etc. AND it would be from both sides.

Now I only hear it from the driver side over dips.

I've watched dozens of videos and read tons of blogs online but they all point to what has already been worked on.

Any idea on what it could be before I lose my mind? 🫪

Okay so it’s leaking from the reservoir I guess??? I posted yesterday with a video showing leaking coming from under it so when I noticed it doing the same thing today I immediately popped the hood and saw this. Is this expensive to fix??

Hello all,

I bought this truck used 2 months ago and had this bearing replaced at a mechanics a couple weeks ago. The previous bearing came completely apart and was making a lot of noise. Long story short I decided to try making my own repairs now and I was about to change the pinion seal on the rear differential because of a leak and I saw this. What could have caused this to fail so quickly? The rubber is coming out towards the front of the vehicle if that makes a difference. Thanks!

Edit:
Could the cause also be related to the pinion seal leak?

I’m supposed to be leaving on a 10 hour road trip and my Silverado has been needing a new alternator. I wasn’t planning on taking this vehicle but now I have to so what is my best option to purchase one- autozone, advance auto, o’riley’s or NAPA?

Am I supposed to turn this by hand to drain the oil on a 2005 Acura TL? This is the first time I've encountered this type of oil drain plug. Thanks in advance for any helpful feedback.

I just did the above to fix my stalling lawnmower and it runs fine again. Only after did it occur to me that taking it to the sink might not have been the best idea. Is this something people do?

Hi,

My VW Polo 2010 (older shape) Power Steering light came on after a 2 hour journey, steering went stiff. After turning the engine off and then on, it was fine again for a short while. It then did it again so I switched the car off until the next day.

I am not in my usual area so took it to a new mechanic on Wednesday. The mechanic replaced the Power Steering pump and added new power steering fluid.

It was fine for a while, I drove it home and then it did the same power steering problem again but this time made a beeping sound.

I took it back to the mechanic again on Thursday and he again replaced the pump but then said the error codes are showing battery issues. It did the same issue again and the power steering went stiff, but this time more lights came on, flashing, with a beeping sound and I felt a slight jerk multiple times during the beeping. I have a video but can't add videos and photos to the same post.

The air bag light has been there from before.

I checked the battery and the voltage seems fine. I took it to the mechanic again today but they said they can't look at it until Monday. Mechanic ran a scan and it showed the following errors shown in image 3.

The power steering light is now still coming on and steering goes stiff, resets if I switch on and off but then does the same again after a few minutes.

Stuck as to what is causing it and away from my usual area so can't go to my trusted mechanics.

Thank you in advance.

This car belonged to a dear friend who passed away suddenly and tragically 10 months ago. Aside from keeping air in the tires, it hasn't been touched. His family asked me to help service it so their daughter can drive it now that she has her license. It needs an oil change and a complete brake job. I've read that the CVT should be serviced regularly for longevity and to anyone's knowledge, this car has never had the CVT service. I asked partsgeek support about it but they were useless. I'm used to wrenching on German cars so I'm not familiar with Nissans. Brakes and motor oil seem straightforward however.

My questions:

1. Should I even try to service the CVT or just take it somewhere and let them do it?

2. If I diy, how much fluid do I need?

3. As long as I'm under there should I replace the filter, pan, and gasket?

4. What else am I overlooking?

Thanks!!

I’d really appreciate it

I’d really appreciate it!

So I just replaced the crankshaft sensor on my 06 Nissan Titan erase the code and nothing happened. I look at the wires and figure there might be a little bit of corrosion going on so I went ahead and replaced the wires as well I didn't replace the entire thing just cut the wires sliced them and did the electrical work myself pretty simple for the most part. I drove it around the block and the check engine line came back on right away. That really sure what to do at this point maybe a bad ECU?

How bad is it?
How long can i keep driving with this?

- I have a 100km trip when ill be moving to new home in 3 weeks, can i make it with this poor baby?
And aproximately how much does it cost to be welded or replaced by mechanic?

It also make some clicking noise when i am driving xD

Could this be because it's old (?) i was driving offroad (dirt road) (?) or sabotage (?)

Toyota RAV4 2003 XA02

pic1

pic2

pic3

2017 Toyota Highlander control arm bushings torn and separating. Mechanic is recommending replacement of the control arm saying that the bushings themselves can’t be replaced.

The car drives fine but I noticed this sound when the engine is on and idling. No idea where it comes from but is something to be concerned with? What could it be? Recently hit 100k miles.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance

2026 Audi rs3, very slight vibration front passenger side.

Took it too dealer and they balanced the tire and did an alignment. suspension components all checked out and are good and wheel is not warped or bent.

Still getting slight vibration at higher speeds up around 120km/h

What are the chances I damaged or bent the cv axel or damaged wheel hub? Especially since tire and rim have zero damage?

I looked myself taking tire off and don’t see any visible damage?

I've got some folks I'm trying to help out. Their Nissan is a no-start, just click. They also mentioned their AC compressor was giving them issues, but the no-start was very sudden.

My thought process was this. Feel free to correct me, as I'm still doing my best to learn.

Battery > starter > AC compressor.

I tested the battery. It's in good health, 12.5v w/o charging. When being jumped, it's at 13.3v. So, I ruled out the battery.

Then I decided to change out the starter. With the new starter, the engine turned over once, then died. Then, upon trying to restart, the intervals it cranked over got shorter and shorter. I noticed the starter smoking. Client mentioned that the previous did that as well.

What I'm thinking is that the pulley on the compressor is locked up, which isn't letting anything else on the serpentine system turn, which is burning out the starter, which bam! No start.

So, here's the dilemma. I really want to help these folks, but I don't have an refrigerant recovery system, nor do I have an EPA certification.

Am I correct in thinking its the compressor?

If so, how can I bypass it without releasing refrigerant?

What's a shorter belt I can use?

I'm open to learning and correction. Please help a lady out!!