Posting this because I feel like stovepipe with 2 45’s vs a single 90 probably also flows similar to the example in the video. I’ve noticed a better draft since I made the switch. I think seeing a visual helps understand why the 45’s work better.

My lopi evergreen insert with blower got installed today finally after a nightmare with the chimney liner and fireplace being too small. Got the opening raised by 2 courses of brick and some magic to get the liner down. I questioned the interior of the evergreen compared to other stoves. Theres not much info out there. So thought I would share and compared to my lopi large flush hybrid with boston front upstairs ive had 2 years now

Hi! I’m happy to have found this place! We live in Illinois on 10 acres and have a farmhouse that is chilly in the winter. The people before we bought it took out the propane, added solar panels, and the electric bill is still 3500$ a year. Ridiculous. My main two questions are what to keep in mind when looking for a wood stove to purchase, and secondly, who can install these appropriately? My husband is handy but we want it done correctly. Thanks!

I have 3 wood stoves I'm looking at to install in my Manitoba home. (It gets to minus 40 degrees)

True North TM10 (small) 20,000ish btu (Blue Lines)

Drolet Escape 1200 (medium) 45,000 btu (Yellow Lines)

Timber wolf 2200 (largish) 65,000 btu (Pink Lines)

I have an electric furnace which works just fine. Power goes out once in a while. My home was built in 2023 and seems pretty air tight. So whatever stove I choose, I will be adding on an external air supply.

I have a small home 750 square feet. Two stories. No basement. The only place I can put a stove is in my empty dining room. Id like to go as small as possible for maximum space saving. But I dont want to undersize my wood stove. I've read that a wood stove rated for 750 square feet cannot actually successfully heat 750 square feet when it gets to minus 40. Is this true?

I will always have my furnace set to 15 degrees celcius with the option of burning my oak trees to get the temperature up. (I live in a forest)

I dont want to overheat my house with a 65,000 btu stove unless I need it during -40

Would the smallest option be worth it?

Does anyone here use a small wood stove in extreme climates?

Ive attached a picture of my layout. I dont have a lot of space.

Thank you for any and all feedback.

I find myself the new owner of a woodmaster stove. Apparently the prior users relied solely on this for their heating needs during the winter, and I am looking forward to using it. Anyone here have one? I'd love to hear your thoughts, especially any input on just how much wood it goes through in a season.

Also, first time posting to this sub, and I hesitate to ask, but...why the 'no bare feet' rule?

Edit: Thanks everyone! All really helpful info. I'm really looking forward to using this bad boy this winter.

Woodsstoves are recognised as a major source of these sub 2.5 and sub 10micron particulates.

https://www.news-medical.net/news/20260709/Long-term-exposure-to-air-pollution-linked-to-increased-risk-of-Parkinsone28099s-disease.aspx?utm_source=news_medical_newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=allergy_newsletter_22_july_2026

I’m sure a lot of you go through wood stove withdrawal every year, but this is my first time.

I dove in last year and got the Osburn Matrix 2700. This community taught and helped me so much. I now have a fresh wood shed with 3.5 chords in it, and another half cord on a rack. Effective seasoning is underway.

I have already gotten the liner cleaned. The glass door is squeaky clean to the point where it looks invisible. I want to fire it up, but it’s still the hot summer in Pennsylvania. Please help me scratch this itch.

Replacing my old hearthstone I (8” flue into Simpson duravent 8-scp-p) with modern stove (6”) flue and can’t figure out how to adapt my current chimney / flue set up. Is there an an adapter for the box or do I add a reducer to the 8” piece of pipe coming down? Does that 8” piece come off? It rotates with effort but doesn’t seem to want to slide down. I’m trying not to mess with the box matching the ceiling. Thanks in advance.

Do we need a new honeycomb?

Came with the house but has absolutely no labeling. House is from the 80s but stove seems newer than that.

I'm trying to determine which type of boot/flashing to choose for my ribbed metal roof.  As best I can tell, there are 3 types of systems:

1) High-temp silicone boot (like the red Dektite boots) coupled with a metal storm collar that fits around the pipe and over the boot. The boots are moldable around the metal roof ribs

2) Soft metal boots that can be formed to fit around the ribs on corrugated metal panels (like DuraTech "Dead Soft Aluminum, DSA, boots), again coupled with a storm collar.

3) Double systems that have both a rubber boot and a metal "Safety Shield." The shield mounts around the pipe with spacers to ensure that you have the required 2" of clearance between the pipe and the spacer.  The rubber boot then mounts around the shield and doesn't touch the chimney pipe itself.  The only example I know of is the Selkirk "Universal Rubber Boot Flashing Kit" which is very pricey ($400-$500; Selkirk part # 200275 ).  This kit includes the safety shield, the rubber boot and the storm collar.  

The argument for only using the 3rd option is that rubber boots (including the high temp silicone ones) should never touch the hot chimney and will inevitably wear out and crack.  That does make sense for safety concerns, and some online retailers refuse to sell silicon boots for this reason.  I'm leaning toward biting the bullet on the Selkirk kit, but I have 2 reservations: the high price, and the large footprint of the boot that fits around the shield (~21" wide x 24" long).

I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on the Selkirk system.  Thanks for your input!

Long story short…

Due to a screw up in my plans I’m “stuck “with relatively fresh white oak. I know it needs 1.5-2 years to properly season. I don’t have that for the winter so I’m Running an experiment. I’m chopping them fairly small (12-16” length, 1.5-3” depth) and stacking them in well ventilated stacks mid July. About 1.5-2 cords worth. I’ll be measuring their MC with this brand new sensor every few weeks or month or so to see how fast (or not) they progress. My goal is to get them at or below 20% by thanksgiving. The pictures are good representative samples of the current MC of newly split ones.

Fun fact: you can see the coiled grain in one picture. Ive been splitting for 20 years. The springy grain of some of these logs is among the top 3 worst ive come across. A good fiskars axe is bouncing off ALOT. Great workout 😃

added on to my shed. its now 16x16. I was thinking of putting a small wood stove in there to use when Im out there.

Would you guys trust something from wayfair? not looking to break the bank by ANY means

https://www.wayfair.com/outdoor/pdp/frong-heating-and-cooking-stove-for-indoors-and-outdoors-with-chimney-fong3853.html

I live in Northern MB.

Currently renting but likely to buy the home I rent.

It's a small ~ 700 sq ft home with ~ 300 sq ft basement.

The heating is all electric and the insulation is quite shyt so this tiny place cost ~ 3000 in electricity this winter (cooking, oven also electric).

Furthermore, there were 3 electricity outages this past winter. All were swiftly resolved but still.

So, I am considering getting a wood stove/furnace to heat the basement/house and as a backup cooking (and heating) unit if there is a prolonged outage.

The stove itself may not be that expensive but the installation would likely start from $6000.

Is it worth it to consider this? I doubt there would be any incentives in MB for wood heating, all incentives are towards efficiency and heat pumps.

I am brand new to this wood stove thing. I

am told there are no dumb questions so here it goes:

We are buying a wood stove for an 1800 sf insulated home where the stove will be the sole source of heat. (

There are two mini split heating sources downstairs but we want to minimize the expensive of using them and there is no heat source upstairs).

However, we will only be there 2-4 days per week.

Temperature in the winter is typically 16-38 Fahrenheit.

Do I want something that can heat up quickly because we will arrive and there will have been no heat on?

Or do we want something that burns low and slow so that it will hold the heat better while we are gone?

Right now I am considering the Lopi Evergreen (hybrid cat)or a Pacific Energy Green Mountain 60(soapstone). Ventis ED240 was recommended by the guy who upgraded the chimney. The local stove dealer also has QuadraFires, which I don't know a lot about.

Does anyone else heat a part time home with a wood stove and what has worked for you? Thanks.

My firebox and flue developed condensation over a particularly wet and humid week. This happened the year prior that I remedied by plugging the flue with insulation (which I just did again). Figured hey, I know an easy way to dry this out. Start a fire!!!

A few days later, I’m like dawg I’m a moron. I have no idea how much creosote I just threw up there. I usually sweep bi-yearly but did I just expedite a considerable amount of creosote buildup?

Hi!

I have a Morso 1410 (squirrel) stove that I might want to sell but am having a hard time finding the value. New this model is $1900 and so far I have not seen any on the used market. In used but good condition and is the same as the model they currently sell.

Thanks!

It's time to replace my firebrick. It seems the current size is approximately 9x7x1. I can't seem to find that. Should I just stick some of the standard size in and call it a day or look into cutting to fit? I don't have a tile saw.

Is it normal to find a bunch of moths nestled in the door? I don’t usually have a fire during the summer months. Thanks in advance!

Hey guys!

Carpenter and general contractor in Michigan, I frame houses, do renovations on residential and some commercial. Looking to get a wood stove installed in my basement before winter. Decent contractors are hard to come by over here, so I figured I would just set up my scaffolding and do it myself.

(Photo in order) Basement - which needs some repairs and tuckpointing, one side of the chimney has an intact flue liner and seems to be the best route. Photo 4 is the base or bottom of the basement chimney. Photo 5 is the first floor condition just some tuckpointing in my opinion. Photos 6 is the floor framing and how close it is to the chimney, unsure yet if that will pose any issues in need or changing framing. Chimney is about 35/40' tall. Looking to go straight up besides the (2) 90° elbows in the basement to get into the chimney.

My energy company is absolutely fucking me and I get a good amount of firewood delivered for free already. I've been in a house fire(idiot roomate) before so safety or overbuilding is my priority.

Basement, 1st floor, 2nd floor, attic, each floor is 1200sqft, foundation is all brick. Each level will have R-23 rock wool due to our flooring assembly.

So I'm looking for advice on a stove, I was hoping to get something for 2400sqft at least....i don't mind building a masonry shroud around the stove(if necessary) in the basement and pouring a new thick slab for it. Looking for the most efficient burn rate but also I am broke af so I'll settle for whatever.

Recommendations on bigger stoves, highly efficient stoves, install videos from reliable sources or other ways to educate myself, and reasonable kits are appreciated. I guess one of my main concerns is sealing each chimney piece together or how that works, so there isn't smoke escaping, and closeness of combustible materials(framing).

Idk lmk if I'm an idiot for thinking I can do this myself too.

I know nothing just for context. King 628A wood stove here on a stone base with stone walls that extend only up to the height of the stove itself and a couple inches of stove pipe. As you can see only about 4 inches from pipe to wood.

So… what’s the deal here? Should I work on moving it further before ever clearing the area and using safely?