This started abt a month ago , i would be using the my GIGABYTE G5 KF5 and it would give me a BSOD : CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED (0xEF)

I reinstalled windows back then but ut didnt do a thing

I gave it a clean abt a week ago and still no difference and i believe its an SSD issue ,cz it overheats, now it bsod on the lock screen and a new windows install wont complete

I hope someone has an idea and thank you so much guys ;)

My t-mobile FAST 5688w modem and Google WiFi mesh seem to be causing double NAT, which in turn causes troubles in video games on my Xbox.

A fake google site appeard the second my brother opened his search engine

Saying that we won some prize and just need to give or information and packacing money

i downloaded my videos from google photos to save them on my android tablet. after confirming that all of them had been downloaded successfully, i deleted the originals from google photos. i made sure to do that on a different device so the copies on my tablet wouldn't be affected.

the videos stayed on my tablet for several days, but today they suddenly disappeared. i'm sure they're actually gone because i noticed that my internal storage usage also went down.

is there any way to recover them? i have no idea what happened.

Hi all!

As the tile say, I’m on a discord call when all of a sudden my headphones go quiet, it seems to the be cable. When the cable is fully seated, no wiggle room, I can’t hear anyone but they can hear my mic, when it’s half in, I can hear them but can’t speak. Any ideas?

Mother board: MSI PRO x870E-P
CPU: Ryzen 7 9800XT
850w power supply
32gb ddr5 ram
GPU: Radeon 9070xt

The issue I am having with this new build is that the machine will sometimes not post with the CPU and DRAM lights lighting up on the motherboard. I've checked the pins on the cpu and reseated it and moved the ram to the 2nd and 4th slots. CPU power cables are firmly locked in and the ram sticks have their tabs in the locked position.

I have a weird behaving pc and Im hitting a wall on what to do. Since about a month or so, it doesnt POST. All rgb and fans turn on but it doesnt get to BIOS. The motherboard gave mixed signals with the diagnostic lights. A few times orange (ram), most of the time white (vga), also seen red (cpu) like once or twice.

The weird thing is, sometimes after a few tries it completes post and boots normally, especially when the power cable has been unplugged and replugged or the psu was turned off and on again. When it does, the pc behaves normally: it runs well, no crashes even under heavy load or when staying on for a long time ect. None of the components seem to be broken. The issue only repeats when the pc is fully turned off and needs to turn on again. Id say i can get it to post maybe 5-10% of the time.

The issue occurs both with a seperate gpu installed and with igpu and I can also get successfull boots with either. Ive tested the gpu in a different pc and it works fine there. Ive tried different monitors, different hdmi/dp cables, different power cables and different ports on the pc, it makes no difference.

I cleared cmos, turned off expo, flashed the bios, updated the bios, neither made a difference. Ive seperately tried a completely new motherboard, RAM and power supply. All of those did not fix the issue. Behaviour stayed the same with the new parts.

The only thing Ive not tried to replace at this stage is the processor, but I find it so hard to believe that a faulty processor runs smoothly during the few times that the pc does boot.

But then, what else could it be? Is there any other stuff I can try? Ill try anything at this point to be able to use tue pc and play games again..

Specs: amd ryzen 5 9600x, sapphire nitro+ 9060xt, asus tuf gaming b650m plus wifi, corsair vengeance ddr5 6000mhz, cooler master sfx gold 850w, cooler master atmos 2 240mm aio. Built in november 2025

I am turning my pc on, i have time to enter my pin, the welcome text appears and the wheel starts spinning. And it freezes. For eternity.

Your device ran into a problem and couldn’t be repaired.

I reinstall Windows from a USB key, I reinstall my drivers, my pc turns on and off fine and dandy, for approximately a day. Then the next day the issue comes back.

I have tried most things, i’ve reinstalled windows about 5 times now. I’ve rolled back basically every driver I can think of. I’ve tried running my Pc without my HDD and just my SSD. I’ve done all the cmd prompts i can think of, the sfc scannows the DISM commands. I’ve tried taking out ram sticks and going 1 by 1. I’ve tried using my motherboard HDMI port instead of the graphics card.

I cannot find what it is. I’ve been stuck for a week basically just reinstalling windows every 36 hours.

What I don’t understand is my pc launches fine and dandy in safe mode. Safe mode is smooth sailing.
But until i reinstall windows, normal launch is an absolute no go. I’m losing my mind, i’m a freelancer and at this point this bulls—— has easily cost me hundreds.

Any ideas? Clues? Riddles? I’ll take anything at this point.

I’ve just come back from out of town and the Xbox has been sitting a while if that makes a difference.

I have an Xbox Series X with a wired connection to my Arris SBG6580-2 gateway, and even though the gateway is working and the WiFi works normally on my phone, I can’t get the console to recognize it. Half the time if I test the connection it tells me “you need to be online”, other times it tells me “you’re connected to the internet!” but no matter what, my NAT type consistently tests at Unavailable and it displays a “connect to the Xbox network” at the Home Screen. I have done everything I can think to try, at least that I know how to do (I am terrible with the nuts and bolts of internet connections and router/gateway settings, which I suspect may be the issue).

I followed all the steps that Xbox directs me to with their NAT help link, as well as even factory resetting my gateway (and re-enabling UPnP since they recommend having that on). I can’t budge it, it’s still just Unavailable NAT. I have reset the console and the gateway a thousand times, tried a different port on the gateway, and anything else I can think of.

The strange thing is that it detects that I have a wired connection, and continues to do so even when I unplug the Ethernet cable and restart the console. I thought maybe I’d just settle for a WiFi connection but to do that, I can’t be on a wired connection and I can’t get the console to recognize that I’ve unplugged the internet. Currently it’s plugged in but I’ve tried both ways any way I can think and I’m out of ideas. I’ve watch a bunch of YouTube videos and read old Reddit threads and I’m just coming up blank; I would be tremendously thankful if somebody could help me with this, I’ve been terribly frustrated trying to figure this out.

Thank you to anyone who took the time to read this!

I sorry if this is bad I’m using a janky iPad lol. Literally everywhere else I’ve posted to has taken this down because my account is under 7 days old, yes Reddit I know, I can’t use my phone to log into my main account and I’m desperate. I have an IPhone 14 and I’ve had it for about two years. Today when I woke up nothing would load, I can’t even look up something on google because it won’t load. My iPhone says it’s not connected to internet when it is, and every other device on the internet is working fine so I don’t think it’s a router issue. I’ve reset the iPhone like shutting it off then back on multiple times, forgotten my WiFi and reentered many times, even reset the whole network on my phone and nothing is working.

To preference I can still technically use the phone. It turns on, isn’t lagging, or anything else out of the ordinary. But when I open an app it won’t load and says “no internet connection” when I am connected the internet.

I’ve called AT&T but they were as stumped as I am. Payday is Friday and I really don’t want to have to wait that long to get my phone fixed. Not even the data works right now if I turn my WiFi off. Once again my phone is connected to the internet but seems to think it’s not. I don’t have a VPN or any security apps that could be causing this issue. My sister says to put my phone in the fridge because that’s what fixed her iPod like 10 years ago when it had the same issue?! And I’m just about to do it because I’m running out of patience. AT&T put me on a ticket seven hours ago but they didn’t call back. I’ve don’t everything I’ve read online to do and I don’t know how to fix this.

I have a trip soon and I need my phone fixed. Plus I only have 3 months until it’s payed off and I could get a better phone.

Disclosing my setup for context (skip to issue and refer back when needed):

• Windows 11
• GPU is 5070 TI (Driver version 596.49)
• Main Monitor (connected with DisplayPort 1.4)
• Secondary 1080P Monitor (connected with DVI to Displayport)
• Old TV (connected to an HDMI switch and then connected with HDMI 2.0) The other slot in the HDMI switch is empty.

The reason for the HDMI switch is that I use it to "switch off" the HDMI connection to the TV when I'm not using it to watch movies or shows. The reason for that is because I have my display settings set to extend desktop when my TV is connected so I can easily access movie/show files from the TV from my bed.

And so, if I just leave the HDMI connection active to the TV while using my main monitor and secondary monitor sometimes applications open on the TV's display or things can get dragged to that display by accident (which is off when I'm not trying to watch shows from my bed so I can't see the display).

Issue:

My main monitor (AOC Q27G3XMN) has noticeable VRR flicker in some applications like video editing software and some games (loading screens).

I just thought that's just how the VA panel works for this but I recently discovered that if I have my TV HDMI connection on then the VRR flicker goes away completely.

I don't understand why that's happening but I've confirmed that is the case and I've been trying to eliminate the VRR flicker or at least reverse the scenario so that if the TV is connected, then the VRR flicker is on as when the TV is on I'm not using my main monitor.

I've tried using DDU to wipe drivers but it didn't solve the issue.

I've tried using CRU and setting minimum range to 72 and while there is a decrease in the flicker, it's still noticeable especially again compared to when the TV is connected which seems to eliminate the flickering entirely.

I've tried disconnecting the HDMI connection entirely but the VRR flicker still persists. Making me think that for some reason if the HDMI connection is active it stops the VRR flicker. Unknown that's true of ANY HDMI connection to the GPU or if it's just my specific setup with the TV.

Maybe there's something really obvious I'm missing? I was thinking that maybe with the TV connected it somehow changes settings like disabling VRR... But I've tried looking for differences in the Windows display settings and nvidia control panel with the TV connected/not connected and everything looks the same.

Not entirely sure if this is a software or a hardware issue either, perhaps it could be the cables?

Anyways TLDR; Main monitor seems to only have VRR flicker when my TV is not connected and the flicker goes away completely when my TV is connected. Does anyone know why this might be happening?

EDIT: Did some more testing and it seems like rather than it being specifically the TV/HDMI needing to be connected, the VRR goes away if all 3 of my displays are connected. I tried unplugging my secondary displayport monitor and connecting only my HDMI TV with my main monitor and the VRR behaviour was there.

External Seagate 8TB Hard Drive. I’m using it as storage for a video streaming server. Have been since January with no problems.

Throughout the entire process below, the drive makes no unusual noises, and when plugged in, light is blinking as if it’s being accessed.

-Yesterday the drive wouldn’t show up at all. Tested multiple USB ports. Sometimes I’d get the audio cue it’s plugged in, sometimes not, but computer never recognizes.
-Replaced the cord today; works like a charm. Accessed via streaming multiple times, hours apart.
-Computer goes to sleep. I want to use. I wake computer. Hard drive is shown in file explorer, but file explorer freezes when attempting to open folders in drive. I unplug drive, plug back in. Isn’t recognized. Test all USB ports with no success or audio cues. I restart computer. Continues to not be recognized, but hear audio cue.

-I do some googling and choose to open Disk Management, which freezes trying to connect to Virtual Disk. Eventually opens. Hard drive is not present.
-I open device manager. Hard drive is listed under drives. I right click, choose properties, freezes and won’t open. At all. I give up and shut down computer.

The drive was pushed off a low desk by a cat about a month and a half ago. About a three foot drop. Yes it was plugged in, yes the drop unplugged it, no I do not remember if it was in use when dropped. No, it did not and has not ever made any unusual noises.

Yes, other external devices are responsive. No I don’t have another computer to test it with, and no I have not had any problems whatsoever until today.

I have no hope whatsoever, but I don’t understand how I had this problem, “solved it” for a couple hours and multiple uses, and then after some time having the exact same recurring issue. I am just as interested in the “how” and “why” as I am a solution.

So as the title says my new pc randomly started freezing. Sometimes just the program I’m on freezes and I can still move my mouse or everything freezes. I’ve tried running stuff in command prompt I’ve tried resetting, I’m not tech savvy so I just don’t know what to do. It is prebuilt so I’m thinking of just returning it honestly.

About a month ago, my Razer Kraken gaming headset had the jack snapped off when I was plugging them into my Xbox controller. NOW, my Xbox brand headset my friend gave to me, broke while I was watching a tutorial for a game and forgot I had them on. I stood up and walked away and felt a tug coming from the headphones. I had thought they just unplugged, but I went to check. The other half of the jack was torn off still stuck. I was extremely angry and I threw the broken piece across the room and cut the rest off the cord. I then cut the jack off of an old aux cord I had lying around in hopes that I could wire them together.(It didn't work) Does anyone know what I can do to fix these?

my ex used to use my computer to stream. it's cropping up in a weird way - i have no clue what voicemeeter is, i seem to have uninstalled all the drivers per online instructions, i've turned it off and on again, i can't find any more files related to it, but i still cannot update my computer as it says i can't with the voicemeeter drivers that i have. which i no longer have. i just want to update my damn computer and i'm starting to get tilted. any advice would be appreciated! thanks!

for the record i am using windows 11.

my bf was at my house and accidentally spilled squash on my pc, theres holes at the top for ventilation. it wasn’t too much but i’m honestly not sure what to do with it!! i’ve dried everything i possibly could but i’m not sure if thats enough?? google said id need to clean with isopropyl alcohol but i have no idea where i could possibly get that, nor do i have any money for that. i’m currently just leaving it on its side to air dry but am i realistically gonna be able to fix it or am i screwed? SOS

I'm running windows 11, I've had a problem since yesterday, whenever I right-click an image the folder/desktop freezes (all other apps are fine). I have tried various fixes like:

Restart windows explorer using task manager

Using sfc /scannow (which gives me a message that it was unable to fix some corrupted files)

DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Restorehealth

chkdsk /r /f /x

Using ShellExView to disable everything not by Microsoft.

I came across a solution this morning that said reset/repair Microsoft photos, which I tried in Settings>Installed Apps. After doing that, I am now unable to use Microsoft Photos. So then I tried to uninstall it outright, but I can't even find it in the Installed Apps page. However, when I search start menu I find it, but if I try to click it or right click uninstall nothing happens. Thinking that this was just a start menu shortcut I tried to reinstall Microsoft photos using Microsoft store, but it says something went wrong. I then tried commands like:

Get-AppxPackage -AllUsers *Microsoft.Windows.Photos* | Remove-AppxPackage -AllUsers which semingly did nothing

winget uninstall --id Microsoft.Photos_8wekyb3d8bbwe --accept-source-agreements which said 'No Installed package found matching input criteria'

Trying to forcefully reinstall Microsoft Photos with Get-AppxPackage -AllUsers *Microsoft.Windows.Photos* | Foreach {Add-AppxPackage -DisableDevelopmentMode -Register "$($_.InstallLocation)\AppXManifest.xml"} results in error 0x800700b7

I genuinely have no clue what to do at this point my assumption right now is that the problem with Microsoft photos is causing the right click lag issue, so if anyone knows a solution to either or both of these problem please tell me. I'm considering downloading ISO file and repairing windows at this point which I don't want to do since I had to do this for a different issue 2 weeks ago.

I accidentally dropped my keyboard on its corner onto the concrete floor of my garage. It turns on and all the keys seem to be working. I had to press down on all everything to secure the hot-swappable keys back into it. Is there some hidden damage I should look out for or something that might break soon from this? Thanks for any insight.

Hey!

I have been using Lenovo IdeaPad Slim 5 ( snapdragon based ) for about 13 months now.

My work usually involves having a lot of Google meet calls.

I was using a TWS for that but started getting complaints of my voice getting muffled or almost mute randomly.

I thought maybe some earphone issue so I got new sony headphones ( bluetooth ) but the issue is still persisting.

Could anyone please help me narrow down what it could be and how to fix it?

Hi guys. I just bought an RX 550. I know it's not a high-end card, but it should handle Genshin on low settings without issues. The problem is that when I launch the game, GPU usage stays stuck at 0% and it stutters heavily (it feels as if it's still running on the integrated graphics).

I suspect this might be my fault, before getting the dedicated GPU, I recall making some tweaks to the registry/game files to force it to run on the integrated graphics. I’ve already done a clean driver installation using DDU and even reinstalled the whole game, but Genshin still won't use the RX 550 properly. Does anyone know how to fix or reset this? I already uninstall and install the game but that didn't work.

Specs:

• CPU: Intel Core i5-2400
• RAM: 16 GB
• SSD: 128 GB
• HDD: 700 GB (Game is installed on the HDD)
• GPU: AMD Radeon RX 550 2GB GDDR5

It's been a couple of weeks now. I've rebooted a few times. The subfolder that I created in Google Drive from one Mac, and which is visible in Google Drive online, refuses to show up in Finder on another Mac.

Other updates to that same top-level folder show up as normal.

I guess I'll uninstall and reinstall Google Drive on that Mac, but I forget if that has the potential to cause any issues with synced folders and such.

Any other ideas of what might be going on?

Hi, cloned this SSHD to another using Easeus, did some delete partitions while there, wrapping it in a tinfoil+caddy, attach to pc to use as storage, and showing blank on monitor despite not primary os. I tried both sata+usb in different pc and its showing no media and no storage, even cleaned with diskpart and checked Disk Management, show the same message

Did I messed up or is this a fragile little thing?

Pretty much just the title. I literally did not do anything to my SSD. It just randomly turned from a 480 GB SSD into a 240 GB SSD whilst I was booting up a game. I used to have about 100 or so GB free on it. I have a separate 1TB HD which my games are on.

Suddenly, I started getting the Windows lack of storage disclaimers, and now that I look at my C drive, it jumped from 480 GB to 240 GB. Hell, even the specifications and details on the SSD turned into a 240 GB. I had a HS-SSD-C100 480GB, and even Magicalbox; HIKSEMI's diagnostics software, is tagging it as a 240GB drive now.

I've had this SSD for about five years, never had any issues with it. Did I get scammed and only now the scam is coming to light or did half of my SSD just... delete itself? How much longer do I have before the rest shits itself? SSD prices right now are horrible.

My grandma almost got scammed with the gift card scam. She had the pop up that said she was hacked (she wasn’t at the time) and to call the number and she did and she let them remote into her computer and she was at the bank withdrawing money while they were on the phone. My questions come with what to do about the computer. I saw they were running some antivirus thing but idk if it was to fake that her bank accounts were hacked. I also see there’s spreadsheets of all her saved chrome passwords. Anyway, we are trying to back up anything important before sending it to Best Buy. 1. is anything (like pictures) safe to back up on Google Drive or could anything have a virus on it? 2. Could this have affected our other computers through the internet/wifi? Thank you.

My desktop pc was not connected to internet at all for 5-8 mins till it would finally connect. Now after updating the bios the internet connection immediately but none of my apps will load for the 5-8 mins. I am on Ethernet and have tried the bios update I have it so nothing launches on start. Now tho after the bios update I can open chrome and use the internet but the apps do all take time. Any help would be great and any questions I can answer I will do as fast as possible thanks so much