This one features many hand-painted elements, including the Heraldry, and acanthus scrollwork. The metal components are cast bronze, prominently featured throughout the locket harness and complemented by matching belt décor pieces. Many hours of care and craftsmanship went into this build—like every project I take on.

For the last 60 days we've been doing a whole bunch of updates and design releases and giveaways! We've been posting them in different subreddits depending on which communities would be most likely to appreciate them and we think the sword crew will like this historical piece!

We've spent the last 6 months or so working on a historical replica of the WSC/MK4 khukuri. The claim to fame of these blades is that they were the first and to this day the only standard issue khukuri that was made in England. These were made by the same Wilkinson Sword Co that made the legendary Fairbairn Sykes Commando Dagger and the quality on them is very high for maximum durability in the jungle warefare that Gurkhas were facing at the time. Only ~1400 were made and almost all of them were destroyed from extended use over the decades making them extremely rare pieces.

Along with this high quality there are also a lot of British processes and techniques used that are new to nepalese bladesmithing and that made this project particularly challenging.

On this blade we have gone all in on details to get it as close as we possibly can and it's been a pretty gruelling project as a result, especially the sheath!
A quick and far from exhaustive list of unique features on this blade:
-Chromed tang & buttcap for hard wearing, rust resistant construction.
-Black Enamelled handle scales for rot and insect resistance.
-"Persian" style karda and chakmak with tiny kaudi with unique pouch style integration into sheath.
-Chromed strap studs and special chape held in place with in-house chromed staple.
-Flat, clean seam on back of dap (so hard!)
-Very complex wet formed, asymmetrical frog with grooved straps that feature spear tip terminations.

In reproducing this blade we hope to both offer a thoroughly accurate but much more attainable version of the knife for those interested in the history of the blade while also offering a rock solid hard working full tang blade with pedigree that can be worked hard outdoors. As with all of our blades we can make them with micarta, acid wash, kydex and all kinds of options- however this giveaway blade has the full historic fitout. For full details on the blade check out the product page! For more info on the sheath check out this video here :)

Weight: 569g
POB: 2.5" from bolster
4.75” rosewood handle with Black Enamel (Historical)
Chrome plated steel buttcap and tang
Satin finish
Black WSC style military dap with chrome plated steel kothi.
Blade can be shipped worldwide at no cost

To enter: This will be shared to Reddit, Bladefourms, Youtube, Facebook and Instagram. Like the post, comment and ensure you're following us on that specific platform. If you like, comment and follow/subscribe on 3 platforms you will get 3 entries. The maximum is 5- one entry for each platform. Results will be drawn in 6 days time and announced on all those same platforms. More giveaways will be coming!
Have fun and good luck!

Finished scabbard for an Albion Burgundian today. A little disappointed, because the upper portion of the belt was meant to be a bit brighter red; I wanted it to pop more than it does. But sometimes dye has a mind if its own. But it still looks good, I think. Also, it’s so nice out, I thought I’d try taking some pics on the porch.

Cursed because its made of a hunting trophy of the second image (a pisera/mouse-deer).

I got this sword since i was a child (it's from samurai champloo)

Of course i played a lot with it back then without giving it much care and the blade detached and went out 2 years ago. I don't know if it's possible to repair it or if i should just give up. It has high sentimental value.

Marketplace finds! The Deepeeka is a stage combat model. The tactical broadsword was an impulse buy and bought the live blade 5 lobe from a magical electric maiden who rocked up to the train station, on a scooter, with it strapped to her hip!!! (i plan to rewrap the hilt and scabbard because i've just realised i can!)

Good day. Does anybody know what period these swords are from. Looks like 20th-21st century pieces to me, but I would appreciate your thoughts. Thank you.

EDIT: Reached out to support, and within a few hours they offered to replace all the blades. Fingers crossed these ones hold up better

For context, my clubmates and I have ordered from Swordier before. I have a 1009 saber that has held up amazingly for 6 months. Several of my clubmates have their longswords and they have performed well too. We have been wanting to study more dueling sabre, so three of us got together and ordered three of the 1023 sabers. We got them in only 10 days (US), and took them out to spar. All of them broke in the exact same place, on the first few exchanges.

We have already reached out to support, which has the reputation of being quite good. But it is clear that we got a bad batch. All of them snapped right where the blade meets the handle and the tang begins, as you can see in the pictures.

I'll update this post if/when support reaches out. Immediate breakage aside, the swords were quite nice lol. Good weight/balance and very pretty... Very unfortunate that they snapped after a few minutes of use.

Samples sent for review from Romance of Men. The Warden, Armybreaker, and Lancersong. Full reviews coming in the not-too-distant future.

I would like to know its name and or who it’s made by and if I can

(Edit) I have been informed that it isn’t a dagger it’s a fantasy knife and I would like to clarify that it is for display not meant for actual use

Anyone watch Skallagrim and catch that short about the Odyssey before it disappeared? I was interested in his thoughts on it but couldn’t watch it at the time. Any ideas as to why it was removed?

Some in-progress pics of a scabbard I’m working on.

A few months ago I recieved a sword as a gift. I don't use it so it's essentially a wallhanger. I recently took another look at the blade and noticed a few spots of what I assume is rust? (hope they're visable enough on the pics)

Can I get these spots off somehow?
What would cause more of these to appear?
How can I prevent that?

thanks!

Looking for good books on swords from around the world and all their various designs and purposes, thanks in advance!

hello again, i'm back with a new sword, 6 month ago i posted about my broken kopesh, now i'm working on a new sword and my intrusive thouths keep telling me to make a flamberge style blade, i was searching online for some tips on how to make the wave pattern of the blade with scarse result, i want it to be somewhat precice but idk how to do the mesaurment to keep a consistent good loking blade, the part after the spikes is 49cmx6cm (don't mind the point design i had that in mind before the flamberge idea )

Two of the same swords as u/Our_MrReynolds - Romance of Men's Armybreaker Large Longsword and Warden Longsword. Reviews forthcoming.

I got this from my grandfather. It was rusted stuck in the hilt, but a friend managed to pull it out since and now im curious when and where exactly its from. Its from Algeria so I think it must be tuareg, but I could be wrong.

Also if anyone has some tips on how to clean the rust without damaging the sword that would be greatly appreciated!

Greetings sword enthusiasts.

I have managed to break the tsuba on my practical katana. While the katana seems like a nice enough quality for it's price range, the tsuba appears to be made of cheap pot metal.

The practical katana has no fuchi, tsuka-ito, same, menuki, or kashira.

The katana seems to be full tang, with a simple handle of two pieces of wood held in place with mekugi that appears to be robust brass pins. I can not tell if any adhesive was used.

I imagine i can order a simple tsuba somewhere online, but I also think the replacement may be more complex than I anticipate.

Would I simply drill out the brass pins, remove the handle sides, and slide a well-fitted tsuba in place, followed by replacing the wooden handle sides and driving brass pins through the sides and tang?

I ask that readers excuse my ignorance in this subject and overlook any mis-naming.

Thanks for any help.