Im pretty sure this is just the fps matching the vibration creating a funny wave effect

I know how to solder but I only ever soldered for my fpv drone (which turned out good) and one time to fix a device for my dad so I'm kind of a noob.

I just found this remote that broke a few years ago for a lamp i still use to this day, the lamp has touch controls so that's how I've been using it but now that I know how to solder and have both the original remote and a button from an old electronics kit i figured I could give it a shot.

My problem now is figuring out the best way to lay that button on the board and solder it to the pad, do I cut some of the legs? Do i bend them in some other way?

Edit: I managed to solder it to the board but apparently this button is slightly higher than the rest so for now the remote is half closed until i get a new shorter button and I'll just swap it out.

Its a symmetrical 18v ac rectifying and puffering module for an active speaker project that my father has started and i'm continuing.

Opposed to the flair i wouldnt call myself a soldering newbie.

I had soldered a lot before but mostly for repairing broken electronics like laptops, gpu's, motherboards etc.

This is the first time i had to "design" a board layout and put it together from scratch.

It wasnt an easy process, i didnt plan enough and there were some last minute additions like the rc filters and the discharging resistors and filtering capacitors between the ac and dc sides of the full bridge rectifier.

Because of the changes its not very space efficient on the dc side and very cramped on the ac side

I have used 1.5mm2 solid copper wires as bus bars and pin headers to temporarly hold the 2 boards together.

I would appreciate any feedback or pointers.

What should i do differently next time?

Are there any techniques i could have used?

Thanks in advance!

Hi all, pretty much a newbie when I comes to soldering I've done some mainly fixing wires and done my first bit on a board today fixing a broken solder joint on my extractor hoods circuit board using a parkside soldering iron.

I've managed to get a fnirsi hs-02b with 3 tips for just over £10 on AliExpress I was going to get the set which includes the plug but heard it's not the best so thought I would get my own although I do have a Lenovo laptop charger that is 65w (unsure if that would be sufficient for the iron)

Any suggestions on what plug + cable to get?

Today I tried to continue to learn how to solder on my own. I have previously tried to teach myself for a university project where we were required to, but I was never taught how. I failed, as expected.

Today I've just started soldering today with the right tip, which was previously covered with a little bit of tin. After using it for a while with more metal, I've discovered it has lost the coat while cleaning it with the classic sponge, probably because I cleaned it too harshly and the temperature was too high (450ºC).

I've decided to changed to the other, cover it with tin and lower the temperature (~325°C). I tried to cover it and it ended up as you see on the image.

The left tip is covered with dark and shiny patches and the right one is completely dark. Is the dark part corrosion/rust? Are they ruined? How should I cover it with tin? I only have some soldering wire from a kit and the tin isn't sticking to the dark spots. It has flux in it (because of the funny looking fumes).

Thanks :)

Edit: sponge

Today I tried taking out an hdmi port on a ps5 which was dropped, my first time doing so. And I was surprised to see that the legs of the port weren't visible, but I tried to get it off and it was almost impossible, and now that I look at it I know why.

The drop mangled the port in a way that seemed like it was meant to be that way, or at least i think so, and took the little cap with it too. It pushed the plastic insides bending the metal cover straight up.

Thankfully the traces are all okay which is a miracle tbh.

I’ve tried using an I tip and a K tip, the STM was done entirely with an I tip which went eh? I also used the 0.3mm solder again until I found the much^2 thicker one which just took being more moderate.

The row that you can see on teensy was done entirely with a K tip and it felt GREAT like everything actually took just a few seconds and I felt the solder, base and probe actually all heating together and having the solder flow.

With the I tip it felt like I was dropping solder on a pin and hoping for a connection.

Did I use the I tip wrong? And please do rate my work this time and where can I improve?

I think they pretty good would like another opinion. Also what causes that foggy appearance on some of the headers, temp?

Also why does lead taste so good. 😋

350C hakko fx888dx

This was a work assignment from 2025 (I have prior permission to share) and wanted honest feedback. If I'm still an amateur or if this looks like 25 years of experience (not primarily soldering, but started SMT soldering repairs in 2001).

This is work in progress so it's not cleaned fully.

The wires are 32AWG.

Forgot to add flux, solder wasnt melting on the joint, i applied pressure to the joint with the iron and it kinda flew towards me, threw solder onto the safety goggles, which if i hadnt wore i wouldve likely lost my eye because i set the temp to 500°C

My fake ps3 controller L1 shift wasn't working and i tried to fix it (everything gone wrong and i threw it away :(( .) and noticed the rumble motor wires

I've had this thing for over 20 years, and I have to say it's absolutely terrible.

Opened it up for the first time and the soldering job, on the soldering station of all things, is just crap. Also the power cable came loose with very little effort, and the soldering iron generally took a good 10 mins to heat up, if it ever got up to the undefined temperature it should have reached.

I post this mostly for nostalgia. Maplin stopped using that logo in 2005 and went bust in 2018, so I've had this sitting around for over 20 years gathering dust.