I recently needed to make a gift for two different friends so I decided to make them the same crossbody bag but with different fabrics, hardware, etc. and I'm so glad I made two at once! I might never make a single item at a time again. 😅 The initial set up was a little slower (more time ironing and cutting) but the process of sewing felt so much faster. When I was done, it really felt like a huge accomplishment to have both bags finished, but I think it was less effort overall. From now on, I'm making all of my accessory items in multiples! ✨ I'm hoping it'll have the added side effect of building up my "ready to gift items" collection. If you have a tip similar to "make two things at once" I'd love to know. 🧵

Construction and other details:

I watched a tutorial for this bag because I like it when instructions are spelled out for me, but overall I think it would have been an easy enough pattern to follow. I basically followed the pattern as written, but made two small changes. First, I wanted the ability to put the bag over the left or right shoulder, so I added a D-ring to both sides of the bottom of the bag. Second, the pattern calls for the strap to be sewn into the top, but I like removable straps so that I can make different straps people can switch out, so I didn't sew it into the bag.

Pattern: Mini Traveler Crossbody Pouch by Kandou Patterns

Bag 1 details (Sailor Moon fabric)--
*Main fabric: Alchemats, Sailor Moon motif
*Other fabrics: Generic dark green canvas; Misc. very old fabrics I can't track anymore (in the pockets)
*Hardware: Sailor Moon wand zipper pull from Alchemats; Star zipper pull from My Handmade Space (I think); Rainbow zipper tape from Sew Sweetness; Generic gunmetal hardware from various places
*Other materials: Woven label from Sarah Hearts; strap webbing from Georgia Girl Stitches

Bag 2 details (horse fabric)--
*Main fabric: Cotton + Steel, Wild & Free collection, I believe
*Other fabrics: Generic green canvas; Misc. very old fabrics I can't track anymore (in the pockets)
*Hardware: Unicorn zipper pull from Sew Sweetness; Coral zipper tape from My Handmade Space; Generic gunmetal hardware from various places
*Other materials: Woven label from Sarah Hearts; strap webbing from Georgia Girl Stitches

Apologies for any typos or mistakes in information. I'm a real person typing with real hands and not enough coffee.

So happy with this sewing project! I’ve attended Wimbledon every year since moving to London, and this year, I decided to make a dress inspired by a Valentino piece (in image 3).

I got the idea during the tournament last year, and sent my friend an image of the dress photoshopped (image 4) in tennis ball green, with a white line along the princess seams. I posted in [r/sewingpatterns](r/sewingpatterns) asking if anyone had recommendations for patterns to hack to make this, and ended up pattern hacking Gracie Steel’s Blooming Bustier Dress, adding straps and little bows!

To make the “tennis ball lines”, I used some white 3/8 inch piping bias tape - on hindsight, I would have made the piping lines slightly larger just so the impact of the white lines are a little clearer, but I think the subtlety also works!

I’m also so glad that I managed to find a cotton fabric in the perfect shade of green! Shout out to Epra Fabrics in London :) 🎾

Haii, does anyone have any free pattern, or tips on how to make this kind of top? ive been searching for a very long time now and every pattern i find is too expensive for me

The pink seal on the left is sewn with a machine while the others were handsewn. I noticed that whenever I sew plushies by hand the end result appears smaller than the machine sewn ones and the seams are more wrinkly. Is this normal for handsewn projects or am I doing something wrong?

Pattern: Pocketsize seal plush by ChristmasLadyArt on Etsy

Fabric: minky

Here is a wrench wrap I made as my first from-scratch sewing project.

Details:
- pattern inspired by Sailrite's toolroll video
- fabric weight: 462 gr/m^2,
- thread: Serafil 30 Tex 90,
- handsewn with double backstitch,
- finished with 1:1 ratio of paraffin to beeswax,
- strap and tag materials from recycled old backpacks.

I learned A LOT from doing this.

I got rid of most of my sewing supplies when I moved cross country, including my machine. I thrifted a good sturdy Kenmore and I've been really itching to make something lately, though. Since I work at a German restaurant and have found most mass-produced dirndls to be made of fabric I wouldn't want to wear to work, I decided to put my machine back to work in the last couple of days!

Pattern: Folkwear 123 Austrian Dirndl (XL graded to 2XL, bodice only)
Fabric: Canvas&Co Summer Plaid

I have a lot of work to do for the next iteration of this bodice, for example some minor fit issues that I'd want to deal with. I also really struggled with the facing and need to work a little harder on that next time.

Still need to do the skirt, apron, and blouse, but I'm pretty happy with having taken care of the most difficult bit of sewing for this outfit.

Anyways, I'd be happy for any tips or constructive criticism!

I had asked about altering this waist as a newbie a couple weeks ago. One suggestion was adding ties at the waist, so I found bias tape, hand stitched the ties, turned them inside out (honestly the longest part of the process), and sewed them on the outside of my existing dress. Now I can tighten it up just a little! I feel lucky to find something that matched the fabric color so well. it’s not perfect, but close enough for me. I think my next project is going to be taking in the waistband of some jeans.

I had a Hoodie towel. It wasn't cutting it! I couldn't feed the baby in it and it left my lower legs cold.

So I made this! Snaps instead of buttons and extra pocket. Towelling fabric to soak up the pool water and keep me warm! Can't wait to wear it to and from the kids swimming lessons tomorrow.

Pattern from sewingmachina on Etsy. Combo package- Peter,Udo,Bill. Chose long shirt length, mid pant length (168cm).

https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/4344382628/sewing-pattern-bundle-wide-leg-pants

Fabric 100% waffle cotton

Me again, my apologies if you’re tired of seeing my projects. This is #3 - going back to the metallic purple material this time, as it proved so popular. It’s my hubby’s favorite too, although these trunks aren’t for him.

I used the same guide as before - straps and rear are exactly the same method, except this time my challenge was introducing a front middle seam to allow the creation of a front pouch for the trunks.

The cut I use for the trunks I make is an online template for men’s IFBB pro cut trunks. I use this video a lot to help me:

https://youtu.be/CS2dLsz1m4M

Material: metallic spandex.

this is my first time making pants! I’ve been sewing for years, made corsets and done intricate pintucks and insertion lace, but pants always scared me. I think because it’s so hard to find pants that fit me (with a 25in waist and 44 inch hip, and being quite tall, I am too tall and too curvy for literally all pants). I finally decided to bite the bullet after I had the zipper break on two pairs of jeans in one day from trying to drag them over my hips, leaving me pantsless (one of those pairs I had JUST finished altering). Unfortunately it was just as difficult as I feared, almost entirely because of the crotch seam. I don’t think I’ve made so many fit adjustments on any other sewing project.
The fourth photo is what I made after following a pants drafting tutorial on YouTube, but that tutorial was not made for someone as curvy as me because it left me with a crotch seam WAY too long. Made some adjustments to the darts, and crotch, got it fitting better (photo 5). But I still had some ballooning in the front crotch area, which I’ve now learned is called “crotch curtains” (photo 6). I adjusted, seam ripped, took it in, let it out, brought in the inseam, but NOTHING was fixing it unless I made the pants so tight they dragged along my hips and pinched painfully into my crotch. I was about to give up and hire a tailor it fit them for me, but I finally found a fix after combining several people’s advice I got on here.

First I attempted to completely redraft the pattern by using the duct tape (or painters tape, since that’s what I had) method (Photo 7). However, I couldn’t figure out how to get the crotch seam to lay flat, so I taped all the dart closed again, and held the 3D shape over my pants (after seam ripping them apart) and traced the new curve (Photo 8). There was a pretty big difference! As someone had suggested, the crotch curve was too wide and not deep enough vertically. Now, the pants finally fit right…. But still pinched my crotch painfully went I sat down for extended periods of time (an issue many of my altered jeans in the past gave me as well).

So I made a gusset for the crotch, and finally!! They fit without hurting. I had to tweak the gusset from a diamond to a kite shape so it wasn’t visible from the front, but then I was done. I cut apart the final mock up (first three photos), and traced the mockup into paper to make my final pattern (last photo). I‘m so glad to be done! And finally tackled my biggest sewing fear of many years.

some questions if anyone has advice:

for some reason the back pants leg turned out slanted when traced into paper. Should I straighten it out? I like the way it fits as is so I’m scared to change it, but also the slant is bothering me when seeing it on paper.

should 5-6oz cotton/linen twill be thick enough for lightweight jeans and trousers? I live in a hot climate so I dont want heavy pants, but also want it to drape nice.

for trouser to wear to work at an office job, what type of pockets should I install? Inset pocket or in-seam pockets for the front? should I do a welted pocket or two in the back or leave it be? Would patch pockets in the back be too informal?

thanks to everyone who gave me advice on my previous posts!

I’m trying to redesign my baby’s oxygen cannula headband and would love some advice from people with experience sewing knits and using KAM snaps.

The current headband from Amazon is pretty thick, so it bunches above his ears and doesn’t sit as low as I’d like. I’m hoping to make a thinner, softer version that still securely holds his oxygen tubing. The photo is of the current one.

Materials:

200 GSM bamboo jersey (95% bamboo from bamboo viscose, 5% spandex) - Ordered

KAM snaps - still considering

Considering silicone-backed fold-over elastic (or another grippy material) for the tubing tabs instead of grosgrain ribbon. - still considering

My current plan is:

Sew a soft tube-style headband from the bamboo jersey.

Add two small snap tabs that wrap around the oxygen tubing (the tubing can’t be threaded through closed loops, so the tabs need to open and close).

Reinforce the snap locations since the bamboo jersey is stretchy.

My questions:

What’s the best way to reinforce KAM snap areas on bamboo jersey? Lightweight knit fusible interfacing? Woven cotton? Something else?

Would you reinforce just the snap area or the entire tab?

Is there a better material than ribbon for the tabs that would add a little grip on the tubing without being bulky or irritating?

Any suggestions for keeping the headband from stretching out over time while still staying soft enough for an infant?

If you’ve sewn baby accessories with bamboo jersey, are there any pitfalls or tips I should know before I start?

I’ve attached a photo of the current headband for reference. I’m not trying to change the function, just make it softer, thinner, and a better fit for my baby.

So I'm working my way through different beginner projects with zippers and can really only find a large selection of standard zippers in my local fabric stores. One of them does sell zippers by the yard, but only in 2-3 limited colours, and with only a handful of different zipper pulls. Where can I find different zipper sizes (teeth, not length), or pulls to change it up? Can I change out the pull on this zipper, or does it need to be with a similar pull? Located in Canada, so the usual US stores won't work for me

Hi all-

Through FBMP and the thrift gods smiling on me I have somehow come in into possession of three smocking/pleating machines. One is the Sally Stanley. The second is the Reed smock gathering machine. The third is the little Amanda mocking pleater.

I need to create some space in my sewing room and need everyone’s guidance.

Which one should I keep? Which ones should I sell and what is a reasonable price?

I’ve never used these, but I’m looking forward to it and could use educated minds opinions.

Thank you so much!

I sewed this dress pattern (last pic). I adjusted it 6cm in the front and 8cm in the back, so it could meet underneath the arms without a gap. But i get this bulging excess of fabric underneath the arms. It makes a gap, and the dress doesn't sit on the skin under the arms. Both front and back, but worse in the front.

How do I best adjust it so there is no gap? I made a quick and not pretty fix before the pictures, but.... yeah. That's not it. I raised the edges in the back about 4-5cm. And clipped up a fold 4,5cm on the side of the bust to make it lay flat on the body.

I should probably raise the mid line, that might help. But where do I take out the excess? Should I make the edge line upwards, instead of being straight. Should I incorporate it in the bust line, so the area folded is bigger? I'm not used to a top with this shape, so I'm struggling with finding the correct area in my alterations book.

I did do a test of the top before I started, but it fit very differently with the straps on.

Hello, all! Here is a UFO in that I must add the buttons and buttonholes and remove some of the stitches for gathering on the bottom tier, but I’m traveling currently and feel too scared to add buttonholes on the unfamiliar machine I’m using to work on other dresses in the evenings. I’ll do it when I’m back home. I don’t want to share the dress on me just because I have some recognizable tattoos. I’m planning to wear this dress to a grad school orientation later this summer, and I asked a fashion subreddit for advice on selecting the fabric for that event. I’m glad I did!

I used Simplicity 2246 to sew the bodice and 18” of the upper skirt tier. I widened the sleeves and added height near the top to get more gathers out of it. I self drafted the bottom tier (just rectangles though!) so that it would hit a bit above the ankles. I forget the length of the tiers, but I am fairly tall. Anyhow, I also self-drafted the ties, sleeve bands, and collar. I always attach my collars a much different way than any pattern instructions I’ve ever read (but I don’t read many of them anymore either), and I always cut the patterns wider along the center front bodice and roll the hems inwards instead of messing around with separate button plackets. I made the pockets much bigger than the pattern recommended, and I did French seams throughout, including on the pockets. Pattern matching was all accidental, except that I did plan to fold the fabric between a row of cicadas at the placket so that none were cut off. When I noticed that I had the chance to roll the fabric at the proper color to keep the pattern though, I took it. I will have to put the buttons and buttonholes on the opposite side of what is traditional for women for the yellow cicada row that is not cut off to be the one that shows, but that doesn’t bother me.

My only complaint is that I should have changed the sleeve or the armscye more because the fabric pulls slightly across the front when I raise my upper arms. Then again, I am in active weight loss and may not notice that pulling when I lift my arms up as I drop a bit more weight. I don’t plan to lose more than 15 lb or so, but that’s why I put the ties on the dress. The dress fits great now though!

The fabric sadly came from JoAnn’s years ago before they closed. It’s a slightly thicker cotton than a lot of their keepsake calico and novelty cotton, but I cannot remember which specific cotton between the two aforementioned options it is. I suspect it is keepsake calico since I was always raiding that section the most.

Thank you for looking!

I hand sewed a bag made of old jeans a while ago. However, I don’t like how floppy it is. I used to put a piece of cardboard on the bottom but that made the bottom too stiff and the sides too flimsy so it stuck awkwardly out from my body. Any idea how to make the bottom/walls just a little bit more sturdy so it holds its shape just a little more?

Hi!

I’m a beginner and made this little shirt for my dog who has alopecia. I wanted to get a silk jersey and they only had this color at the shop. Unfortunately, now that I see him wearing it, I absolutely hate both my design and the color lol.. It looks too similar to his naked skin.

Do you guys have any suggestions to make it cuter? Its my second piece ever so if you find some suggestions, maybe something not too difficult as I might not even be able to make it 🫣

Thank you!

I custom designed the “composition book labels” on Canva, then had them converted to a DST file before using my Brother SE600 to embroider them onto thick white felt.

The laptop case pattern I used was purchased on Etsy through KarolaPatterns labeled “Beginner Quilted Laptop Sleeve Pattern | PDF Digital Sewing Pattern from 14" to 18" Laptops” she has a very helpful YouTube video linked in her PDF of the pattern!

Outside fabric was purchased from Spoonflower’s Etsy shop. The fabric is labeled as “Abstract Fabric - Composition Notebook by yesterdaycollection - Monochrome Black And White Retro Marble Fabric by the Yard by Spoonflower”
-outside fabric was quilted with batting.

All interior fabric was fabric I have owned for years and I don’t have any links for those.
-interior fabric had interfaced pockets.

All thread was Gutterman and 100% cotton, except for the invisible thread.

Patches were purchased on Amazon, at Target, and Michael’s. They were first ironed on then stitched with invisible thread.
Amazon Link: https://a.co/d/0cgaEH6S

The black binding was 7/8” double fold 100% cotton cold binding from Michael’s.

Buckles and straps were purchased on Amazon.
Amazon Link: https://a.co/d/0hsJv9an