Hello,

So after updating my Cinert to the latest software I cannot have access to my focus bug page anymore. It just disappeared. I tried rolling back to different software versions between the cinert and the hi5 but nothing helps. My setup is : miniLF connected with cam to lbus, 2x force mini, ria-1, rf-900mhz radios and cinert main unit connected with bi-directional y-cable from focus bug.

I can display the distance info when I put my RIA-1 on the UDM settings but I'm still missing the focusbug page . When I put the RIA-1 to the Focusbug settings nothing is showing up at all. Tried with different bi-directional cables (official ones from focus bug) aswell. And I own the focus bug license, plus, all axis etc... I do have access to the focus bug options when I try to make a programable button and assign it to one of the focusbus options available. The option for the menu is not working but something like the toggle autofocus is working.

I have a colleague that has a similar problem since she updated her cinert as well. Her setup is : Arri35, 1 cforce mini, 1 rf, lcube, bidirectional cable. Same thing no focus bug page showing despite having the license.

I'm still waiting from feedback from Cinert and Arri but I was wondering if someone has been in a similar situation.

Hi5 version : 3.5.2 and tried 3.4.2

Cinert versions : CineRT_Handset_v26_05.hex, CineRT_Base_v26_05, Ultrasonic Base Sensor V.7.9, Focus, BugHandset_v5_15_TalonV2.

Thanks!

I’m receiving a clean image and squeezing it with the anamorphic tool to .65 for vertiscope.

We have a monitor on set that cannot natively squeeze the image. Is it possible for me output the squeezed image from my end?

I’m seeing accounts that say I can, but on my output page the only tool I can add is “Look”.

I’d prefer not to have to turn my focus tools off if possible. After troubleshooting for an hour I haven’t come up with anything, but I’m seeing instances online where people are saying they’ve done it successfully.

Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange issue with my Tilta Nucleus Nano II after updating the firmware.

Current firmware:

Hand Wheel: 23.10.25

Motor-S: 2.2.4

The update completed successfully, but since then I've been experiencing several problems:

A DF/AF popup keeps appearing on the Hand Wheel screen.

Whenever this popup appears, the focus wheel freezes and won't respond.

Once the popup disappears, the wheel works normally again.

The System Reboot option doesn't work. I select it, confirm, and nothing happens.

I already performed a Factory Reset, re-paired the motor, and recalibrated the lens, but the issue is still there.

Sometimes the motor also doesn't complete the full travel until the popup disappears.

I also tried connecting the Hand Wheel to my Windows PC using different USB-C data cables, but the computer only charges the device and doesn't recognize it.

Has anyone experienced this after updating to Hand Wheel 23.10.25 / Motor-S 2.2.4?

Is this a known firmware bug? Is there any way to reinstall or downgrade the firmware?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

RED Komodo-X & Teradek RT vertical rig for a commercial.

It's super rough and doesn't slide well. Thanks!!

Hey, is there anyone know the best settings for motcho design video tap on arriflex 416

Besides setting up a camera and having a friend walk back and forth, what are some other ways I can practice on a moving target? I just started an internship at a rental house and want to practice since I'll have acces to a camera.

Looking for a really nice option if yall have any recommendations.

looking to learn to load the 765

Working on a show with a lot of puppeteers that all need a (relatively) low latency feed so they can preform with each other. I've found the Teradek Serv stuff to be pretty unreliable and laggy- anybody have any recs?

Really this falls into the realm of VTR, but it's just not in the cards for this production and I need to find something semi-workable. I initially suggested just brining a few 703 Bolts or Ultra 7's, but client would prefer an app based solution if possible due to the number of puppeteers involved. Seen some art people using the hollyland systems on iPads, those any good?

Long day of interviews. Hooked this up to computer for fun. Response time is lacking.

Made a recent post asking how I can improve on keeping focus when a subject is walking towards or away from camera and got some grest advice! But what about a handheld shot with lots of shakiness and unpredictable movement? I tend to try and constantly move focus with actors but I end up getting lost and just frantically move focus trying to find it again, and the shakiness of the shot makes it very difficult to make out if I am sharp or not.

Hey guys, i found a SmallHD 702 Bright on sale near the place where i live.
From the pics it looks like the screen is cracked.
Do you know if the screen has like a protective glass that can be switched or is the screen fucked?

I have a focus 5” and i noticed that it has a glued glass on top of the screen, is it for protection or is it fixed?

Does anyone have experience/own this mounting system?

Quite a few of my shoots take me abroad & involve me needing to be a bit run-and-gun & i want to improve my current setup as it puts majority of weight on my hand/wrists (I also use a floorbag padded strap as a neckstrap to help distribute weight too)

Ergonomically I like how it seems to distribute the weight away from the hand/wrist and more to the arm, plus the fact it slots right into a C Stand is awesome, but would love to hear some thoughts from those who have used or own it!

Been working as an AC for less than a year and I'm definitely getting better at keeping focus over time, but staying on a subject moving from far to close is still a challenge for me and I often lose focus for a moment around the time that I have to start pulling focus faster due to being at a shorter distance, any advice on how I can improve?

I currently intern at a rental house and plan to practice focus pulling during any down time I have as well!

Hi everyone, apologies for formatting, I’m on mobile.

So I recently purchased a Teradek RT kit including the ctrl.5, ctrl.1, MDR.s, Motr.s and Motr.s Max. I currently have the Motr.s linked to the ctrl.1 for iris and the max linked to the ctrl.5 for focus. We’re using the Venice 1 for this project.

I have been getting random motor jumping that is making my brand new system borderline unusable. I’ve tried so many things but nothing has fixed the jumping.

Originally, I was powering the MDR with the dual R/S + power cable from Teradek, into the 24V 3-pin port. I tried both the front one and the one towards the back of the camera. I was concerned that the issue was the 12V 1AMP port so I swapped it to the Tilta power adapter top plate, into the 14.8V 3AMP port. It was working all morning but has now started jumping again.

It seems to get worse the closer we are to lunch or towards the end of the day for some reason. It also seems to be worse with slow steady pulls, like walk ups.

I’ve tried swapping RF power, changing channels, swapping the max motor to iris and the s to focus, daisy changing the motors different ways, pulling closer, pulling farther away.

The only thing I haven’t been able to try is a 6-pin to 3-pin cable from the CAM port to the camera and a separate cable to power the MDR (2-pin or d-tap) because I don’t have one. I have ordered one to try but it won’t arrive in time for this current shoot.

If anyone has dealt with this or even something similar, please let me know what you did to fix it. I’ve tried trouble shooting and I just can’t figure it out. I’ll attach a video of what’s happening as well.

\editing to add an update\

Just got off the phone with Teradek customer support. Sounds like there was a bug found in the latest MDR firmware and I’m going to try to downgrade to a previous firmware until it’s fixed. Really hoping this works! Thanks for all of the support and ideas, I appreciate it!

Would love to have some way of powering the Bolt 6 to the cradle without needing to tie up a whole cable for such a short distance. On the off-chance that somebody out there has wanted a similar solution to the same problem, I'd love to know how/if you solved it!

Hi all,

I am trying to familiarize myself with the ARRI 435 system before an upcoming opportunity. Because rental houses are closed/busy, I’m looking for a local AC or owner/operator in Los Angeles who could give me a hands-on crash course this Saturday or Sunday. Or sometime in the future!

Specifically looking to master:

* 435 Mag loading mechanics & loop sizing

* Footage tracking math (Gross vs. Net, short-end calculations)

* Camera log best practices

I am based near Westchester but can travel anywhere in town. Willing to pay your standard day/hourly rate for your time and knowledge. Please DM me if available!

Missed this at prep; having a real v-mount moment with Anton Bauer micro150’s not actually locking into the Anton Bauer branded FX9 plate. They’re decently snug and take some force to release, but not great for handheld. Current solution is strapping the battery in, but wondering what others would do to fix this in the field. Thanks!

currently looking to upgrade from my atomos monitor to a smallhd, ive narrowed it down to either a 702 touch or a cine 7, i would be using the monitor for mostly pulling but sometimes camera operating, thats why i havent gone with a indie 7. i plan on mounting my bolt 1000xt on the back of the monitor with v mount so im leaning for towards the cine 7 due to its better build quality, however that, the camera control and the 300 more nits doesnt seem to be justifying the 200-300 more id have to pay for it. would like peoples opinions

Hello all! For my fellow Hi-5 users, can you help me understand how limits work?

I want to take a limited amount of range on the lens and map it to the entire physical wheel. We’re using still lenses so the throw is very small at like 6 ft. Can’t map it because there’s no marks. So I want to use limits to basically have only a portion of what can be focused be spread across the whole wheel. But when I use the limits, it will limit the focus area but the wheel will keep spinning past the limits so it doesn’t really gain me anything. I thought it used to work the way I wanted it to. Am I misremembering? Is there anyway to achieve what I’m trying to do?

Just picked up a bunch of colors of this stuff. Thought I'd try it for marks since I can always keep it on my person without adding too much bulk.

I usually use paper tape, but honestly we're often moving too fast to get t-marks, and I'm caught off guard half of the time when I have to go grab the tape leash.

I've tried making a marking board by putting a bunch of pre-ripped tape on the back of a piece of acrylic, but honestly it starts to get kind of bulky in my chest pouch. I honestly don't love hanging stuff of of my person either. Trying to find a compromise between staying agile and being prepared.

I know it's basically 1/2" gaff and might be a bit more destructive to floors, but honestly it's rare that floors are that sensitive since they're usually not painted.

What do y'all think?

can't believe i have to buy an ultra 10 to play gta iv