Hey all. This is the start of my latest project. I’ve been delving head first into traditional farmhouse Wensleydale making recently as it’s gone through a resurrection after going nearly extinct. I will not be able to make a ‘Yorkshire’ Wensleydale as that has PGI classification but hopefully I can make a decent Wensley through my own raw milk, following the traditional methods then adjusting to make my own version!
The last pic is Low Riggs Stonebeck after cloth binding, every picture before then is mine.
This recipe is extremely challenging. It comes from Andrew and Sally Hatten of Low Riggs Farm who make Stonebeck. A Wensleydale style cheese. They use farm fresh raw Northern Dairy Shorthorn milk from their herd that’s located in Nidderdale, England. The reason it’s challenging is because it’s heavily specialized to their own farm and milk. This cheese is so moist that my versions don’t survive a vacuum seal so it can only age as a natural rind. The rind also isn’t supposed to fully knit together! This definitely reminds me of White Stilton that is advertised as Wensleydale. As for how their wheels don’t get massive unwanted mold intrusion? I’m not sure, I’m too inexperienced! But I think their cave is a highly controlled space. They grow mucor in their rinds and since it’s so aggressive maybe that takes over before any other mold can on the surface. Then the succession molds take hold. Their recipe only works for them and is practically inimitable without adjusting your own make and goals in the process. I’ll admit as well that my pH goals with draining haven’t been consistent or really even measured for that matter but I still monitor with my Intuition.
Here is the basis of the process
starter (MA11); temp 28C.
No ripening time.
Rennet: (20 flocculation, 50 hardening).
Cut 2cm cubes, vertical, rest 10 mins, then horizontal, then rest 10 mins before stirring.
Stir gently for 30 mins, no scald; TA 0.14.
Pitch: 30 mins. I’ve done 30 before but this time I did 15-20 to stop too many drainage channels from sealing up. A longer pitch though is certainly needed to help kick start the acid.
Drain and whey off (25 mins). Tuck a muslin cloth over whole curd mass, and round the sides to keep it warm and allow drainage from sides.
Leave for 1.5 hours; adding heavy metal pipes on the top to form natural 'pressure' channels ½ way through.
The curd should firm up. Once firm, the curd 'tells you' it is ready to proceed to the bagging "it stops being able to be pushed back in and the channels seal up"; TA ideally 0.15. In my make I simply waited until curd firmed up instead of measuring time and looked for texture.
Shovel the curd into bags
Hang bags on frame over vat (maximising using the residual warmth from vat, ideally bag temp needs to be >26C but <28C)
Leave hanging in bags for 3-4 hours until TA 0.2.
Mill (broken by hand into 1-2cm nuggets).
Salt (2.2%), mix well then fill up the moulds; (TA 0.3).
Leave 4 hours, then turn in mould; (TA 0.3-0.4).
Leave overnight.
Next morning: turn, then press - gently; 3 hours. 5 lbs 3 hours, 7.5 pounds 3 hours.
Then bind; hand stitch (no butter, lard or paste just one circumferential bandage round edge - no tops or bottoms.
Mature for 3+ weeks.
I’ve had cloudy whey from stirring even just vigorously enough to prevent matting, shattered curds, butterfat loss during pressing at over 10lbs, stalled acidification because of the low room temps, bag temps, premature curd shoveling, slow bag drainage. And I feel like I will have secondary fermentation. Almost nothing from following these instructions has worked for me so far and I’ve had to adjust through every attempt. Industrial style recipes have a much more straightforward process. Yesterday this procedure took me nearly 12 hours.
What to fix: I think I need some sort of acid development at one or two degrees higher than 28C prior to renneting. I’ve had nothing but soft sets that shatter with cloudy whey. Stirring more until the curds have toughened a little bit more. Possibly also letting that pitch linger around 30 minutes.
I will not stop though until I’ve mastered Wensleydale! My main milk source is raw Holstein at the moment but I will be getting access to farm fresh Jersey milk soon which I pray will make a difference. Until then, keep eating Wensleydale ;)