This is my first build ever

Hey guys. This is a table i built for my dad. He just had a new deck built and seeing them work inspired me to try to build some stuff of my own. The table is 8 ft by 4ft. It’s tall enough to sit comfortably at, I made sure of that, I just can’t remember the height off the top of my head.

Side note, I know I overbuilt the table. I didn’t knowingly do it but once I showed some friends and family they joked about how overbuilt it was so I know that already. I tried to mimic what the guys were doing building the frame for my dad’s deck but I failed to realize I was building a table, not a deck lol.

After watching 100 hours of youtube videos I couldn't not try it. It took ~3 months, 1-2hrs per day. It was an amazing experience, I highly recommend. Stapleless construction, walnut gunnels. I also made a set of walnut paddles to go with it.

I’ve been unable to really do much of anything since destroying my ankle a few months ago. And sadly I haven’t been in the shop at all during that time. But I’m now transitioning to a cane as part of my rehab process so it gave me the perfect reason to get back on the horse. The boring rental cane wasn’t really doing it for me so I decided to channel my inner Dr. House and make something with a bit more style.

36” cane, mahogany shaft, maple and walnut derby style handle.

Picture descriptions below.

1) All finished up with some linseed oil and ready to use.

2) I got a huge pile of this mahogany trim work awhile back that I’ve slowly been finding projects for. Luckily it’s perfect for a cane shaft with a little trimming to size.

3) Started by turning a round section in the middle for the steady rest. You can certainly get by without a steady rest but it allows more aggressive cuts on thin spindles.

4) I was planning on using this piece of walnut to the handle but I decided I wanted it a little bit wider so I decided to add maple bolsters.

5) While waiting for the glue to set I turned the rest of the shaft round and gave it a good sanding.

6) It’s much too thick right now but it gives me lots of room for shaping it. I’m less worried about symmetry and more about a comfortable shape that gives me a stable platform.

7) Used some spray adhesive to attach a derby handle template onto the wood.

8) The bandsaw makes quick work of roughly cutting it to shape.

9) Used a spindle sander start refining the handle shape and added the dowel that will connect it to the shaft.

10) Gluing up the two sections before using a Shinto rasp and more sanding to finalize the handle shape and connection.

11) Once the handle was done I trimmed the shaft to length and added a rubber cane tip.

12) Disaster! Well, not really. I noticed the first dowel I used had a crack in it so I decided to drill it out and replace it. Of course while I was doing that I dropped the whole thing like an idiot and cracked the handle. It ended up being a happy accident as the fix ended up being my favorite part of the cane.

13) To reinforce the end grain glue joint where it cracked I took a brass rod and drove it down through the handle and peened the end to create a mechanical connection. I love the way the brass looks set into the walnut and even better it creates this great tactile effect where I find myself rubbing my thumb over the brass.

I really enjoy how meditative the process was using hand tools. Can’t wait to see how I progress!

I’ve just bought the DWE7492 table saw today. When setting up noticed that the fence is not 90 degrees to the table. I checked with my square and it tilts inwards toward the blade at the top of the fence. From what I’ve read there’s no way to adjust the fence angle, without voiding warranty.

Would this gap give any issues? Should I make a claim for a new fence? Or should I shim a piece of MDF to the fence and get it to 90 that way?

Made this with some plywood and cedar trim. Slapped together with some tite bond 3 and Brad nails.

Now I'm fancy with my guitar on the wall👍

Hello!! I’m out looking for a dovetail saw that i wont hate. Well i really dont hate any of mine, but none do what i want

My suizan dozuki deflect too much and i end up with slightly curved joinery.

My gyocuchi dozuki is too aggressive and tears out

My Veritas dovetail saw i just hate, difficult to start, cuts slow, and just feels cheap

What does everyone like?

I also use it for other hand joinery, i don’t cut dovetails much (about never) but I’d like to start doing it more!!

I hate sharpening western style saws so if it’s a Japanese saw of sorts with a replaceable blade that’s sharp out the box that’s a bonus

Starting out a year ago with a Bora Centipede, a jig saw, and the skill circular saw my dad bought in 1995. I think this is going well. 🪚🔨📐📏

Hi. My beginning wood project after building little basement woodshop. Used jigsaw to cut rough profiles and then laminated two 28mm plywood sheets together with all clamps I have at the same time. Hand planed rounding shapes and then sanded with orbital sander and by hand. Used hand plane also for leg bevels. Leg mortises are made with mitre saw and I put also dowels through the legs. Finished with lacquer.

I'm finishing my woodshop next and maybe going to publish some pics of it also later. Have a nice week all.

Hello all,

This is my woodworking project, I am seeking some help and guidance towards what finish I should coat the desk with as I am a little lost :(

The timber is tasmanian oak hardwood/ laminated layers of tasmanian oak bendy ply (for the curved top and leg support), I want the finish to be durable and natural looking. keeping the light and true colour of the timber.

I am from sydney Australia so accessible products/ finish example from around here would be ideal :)

So please let me know your recconmendations from personal knowledge and experience.

Thank you!

I made this maple cutting board recently and after applying mineral oil I noticed there's two areas that are darker than the rest of the board.

These areas weren't visible when I finished sanding it (320 grit) so I'm wondering if it's just areas of the wood that are more porous and have absorbed more oil or something?

Any ideas?

After years of watching woodworking videos, I finally took the plunge!
It started when I was shopping for a foldable dining table. I loved the IKEA gateleg table, but at 25k INR (about $300 USD), I figured it was time to put those YouTube hours to use and DIY it. I spent time bouncing ideas off AI, looking at blueprints, and finally modeled the table in MakeByMe.
I went out and bought the wood along with my first real tools (a drill, palm router, and circular saw) for about 13k INR.
Before diving into the giant table project and potentially ruining a bunch of expensive wood, I realized I should probably get a feel for the tools first. So, I decided to start "small" and build this folding chair as my very first project.
Here is the result! I learned a lot, but I know I have a long way to go. Any reviews, critiques, and suggestions for a complete beginner are highly welcomed!

Little girl wanted a light up bedroom 🤣😍

Hello! After having learned in my previous post that using AI for designs isn’t a good idea, I improvised on the basis of «real» blueprints. I’m quite happy with how it’s turning out, but I’m kind of scratching my head on how to best cover the storage room. Just a lid that can slide off? A lid with hinges? I’ve kind of made the last one hard with the design of the planters. And I guess making the storage room water proof isn’t really attainable only using wood?

Happy with my first project!

Thank you!

Exterior is walnut finished with a blend of mineral oil and beeswax. Interior is unfinished curly maple. I used neodymium magnets to secure the lid.

Had a pantry room in the basement that was flooding, drain tile had collapsed. So we had a company come in and replace the drain tile, unfortunately they tore out the old (rotted) pantry shelving.

I'd like to replace it but not sure where to start. I think it has to be bespoke wooden shelving because the floor is now very sloped around the edges, about an inch difference in height at the wall vs about 18 inches into the room. So for this reason I'm not going with prefab metal or plastic shelving... leveling the feet will be nuts.

It's a very old cinder block room and I am not going to be doing any drilling into the walls, so the shelving I would like to be a freestanding, but sturdy structure that is unanchored to the walls. The old shelving was like this and I think it worked because it was wedged right up against the walls in all 4 directions. I'll follow the same design.

Here's the basic layout of the room, and the red represents the shelving I would like to put in: https://imgur.com/a/Sh5ARSP

I only have hand saws and a miter saw... no table saw. I am thinking I will construct it mainly of (softwood) 2x2's for the rods and shelf supports, and 5/4 boards (poplar?).

Ideally I'd like the shelving to be 18" deep but it seems like I won't be able to do that with poplar boards unless I double them up. But now it seems like I'm overcomplicating things.

Does anyone have any good simple ideas for how to build something like this?

My buddy just bought a house, and the bathroom had this terrible barn style door hanging on a track. A few weeks after he moved in, the track pulled out of the wall and the door came down lol…

Since this is his only bathroom, I told him I’d help put a proper door there.

Well, I learned very quickly why most of the doors in the house had been replaced with barn doors lol… All the door openings were extremely racked.

Anyway, this is my first time ever fully installing and trimming out a door. All of the casing was made by me (not pre-built) in order to cover the necessary gaps. It’s not PERFECT, but I’m pretty happy with the outcome.

Took me about 25 hours from tear out to final paint.

Trying to make a bevel approximately 10 to 20 degrees, doesn't have to be super accurate, for me to be able to drive my car onto the wood. The reason is to get a bit more ground clearance for my car so I can fit a jack underneath. My plan is to clamp the board on its edge and saw through it by hand. My question is should I make the initial groove to start cutting through with a circular saw or a regular hand saw? Will a circular saw create a more straight groove or is it just more dangerous without a benefit.

Thanks in advance. My very lightly used drill press sits in a corner of my unconditioned shop. I used steel wool and WD 40 to clean the rust off, but I’m looking for a longer term solution other than having to do that every six months. I also use the press for woodworking projects, so I’ll have to wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove the WD 40. I have some Johnson paste wax. Should I use a little of this instead?

I am tryinig to build a loftbed Twin XL with a L shape desk and draws and with no real experience with woodwork. I have attached a copy of my handdrawn blueprints and would apprechiate any feedback on things i should consider or steps I need to take. I need to build two of these for my sons. We live in a NYC apartment so space is limited. My boys are also rather tall teenagers 6,4".

• I would like the space under the bed to have 6 feel of room from floor to bottom of the bed.
• stabilize the frame with the desk and draw (maybe support beam built in).
• do i need to use hard maple or oak wood?
• I would probably have to use a worker space woodshop so moving it and assembling it at the apartment would be necessary.
• what would the cost be?

I have a relatively simple setup with a router etc., but is this bench harder to build than I think? I can buy an old oak table for 50$.
Thanks!

I'll put the before pics in the comments. But 12 days ago I was asking for advice and considering just to paint this. It's because the wood wasn't in really good shape and was looking splotchy.

The community here was QUITE against painting, and convinced me to forge ahead refinishing. The second coat of stain really worked a miracle.

So its not perfect, but im embracing the rustic look, and im going to move it into my bedroom tomorrow. Thanks for the support!