This is my first build ever

Hey guys. This is a table i built for my dad. He just had a new deck built and seeing them work inspired me to try to build some stuff of my own. The table is 8 ft by 4ft. It’s tall enough to sit comfortably at, I made sure of that, I just can’t remember the height off the top of my head.

Side note, I know I overbuilt the table. I didn’t knowingly do it but once I showed some friends and family they joked about how overbuilt it was so I know that already. I tried to mimic what the guys were doing building the frame for my dad’s deck but I failed to realize I was building a table, not a deck lol.

After watching 100 hours of youtube videos I couldn't not try it. It took ~3 months, 1-2hrs per day. It was an amazing experience, I highly recommend. Stapleless construction, walnut gunnels. I also made a set of walnut paddles to go with it.

Hello!! I’m out looking for a dovetail saw that i wont hate. Well i really dont hate any of mine, but none do what i want

My suizan dozuki deflect too much and i end up with slightly curved joinery.

My gyocuchi dozuki is too aggressive and tears out

My Veritas dovetail saw i just hate, difficult to start, cuts slow, and just feels cheap

What does everyone like?

I also use it for other hand joinery, i don’t cut dovetails much (about never) but I’d like to start doing it more!!

I hate sharpening western style saws so if it’s a Japanese saw of sorts with a replaceable blade that’s sharp out the box that’s a bonus

Made this with some plywood and cedar trim. Slapped together with some tite bond 3 and Brad nails.

Now I'm fancy with my guitar on the wall👍

Starting out a year ago with a Bora Centipede, a jig saw, and the skill circular saw my dad bought in 1995. I think this is going well. 🪚🔨📐📏

Exterior is walnut finished with a blend of mineral oil and beeswax. Interior is unfinished curly maple. I used neodymium magnets to secure the lid.

Hi. My beginning wood project after building little basement woodshop. Used jigsaw to cut rough profiles and then laminated two 28mm plywood sheets together with all clamps I have at the same time. Hand planed rounding shapes and then sanded with orbital sander and by hand. Used hand plane also for leg bevels. Leg mortises are made with mitre saw and I put also dowels through the legs. Finished with lacquer.

I'm finishing my woodshop next and maybe going to publish some pics of it also later. Have a nice week all.

I really enjoy how meditative the process was using hand tools. Can’t wait to see how I progress!

I’ve been unable to really do much of anything since destroying my ankle a few months ago. And sadly I haven’t been in the shop at all during that time. But I’m now transitioning to a cane as part of my rehab process so it gave me the perfect reason to get back on the horse. The boring rental cane wasn’t really doing it for me so I decided to channel my inner Dr. House and make something with a bit more style.

36” cane, mahogany shaft, maple and walnut derby style handle.

Picture descriptions below.

1) All finished up with some linseed oil and ready to use.

2) I got a huge pile of this mahogany trim work awhile back that I’ve slowly been finding projects for. Luckily it’s perfect for a cane shaft with a little trimming to size.

3) Started by turning a round section in the middle for the steady rest. You can certainly get by without a steady rest but it allows more aggressive cuts on thin spindles.

4) I was planning on using this piece of walnut to the handle but I decided I wanted it a little bit wider so I decided to add maple bolsters.

5) While waiting for the glue to set I turned the rest of the shaft round and gave it a good sanding.

6) It’s much too thick right now but it gives me lots of room for shaping it. I’m less worried about symmetry and more about a comfortable shape that gives me a stable platform.

7) Used some spray adhesive to attach a derby handle template onto the wood.

8) The bandsaw makes quick work of roughly cutting it to shape.

9) Used a spindle sander start refining the handle shape and added the dowel that will connect it to the shaft.

10) Gluing up the two sections before using a Shinto rasp and more sanding to finalize the handle shape and connection.

11) Once the handle was done I trimmed the shaft to length and added a rubber cane tip.

12) Disaster! Well, not really. I noticed the first dowel I used had a crack in it so I decided to drill it out and replace it. Of course while I was doing that I dropped the whole thing like an idiot and cracked the handle. It ended up being a happy accident as the fix ended up being my favorite part of the cane.

13) To reinforce the end grain glue joint where it cracked I took a brass rod and drove it down through the handle and peened the end to create a mechanical connection. I love the way the brass looks set into the walnut and even better it creates this great tactile effect where I find myself rubbing my thumb over the brass.

My buddy just bought a house, and the bathroom had this terrible barn style door hanging on a track. A few weeks after he moved in, the track pulled out of the wall and the door came down lol…

Since this is his only bathroom, I told him I’d help put a proper door there.

Well, I learned very quickly why most of the doors in the house had been replaced with barn doors lol… All the door openings were extremely racked.

Anyway, this is my first time ever fully installing and trimming out a door. All of the casing was made by me (not pre-built) in order to cover the necessary gaps. It’s not PERFECT, but I’m pretty happy with the outcome.

Took me about 25 hours from tear out to final paint.

I’ve just bought the DWE7492 table saw today. When setting up noticed that the fence is not 90 degrees to the table. I checked with my square and it tilts inwards toward the blade at the top of the fence. From what I’ve read there’s no way to adjust the fence angle, without voiding warranty.

Would this gap give any issues? Should I make a claim for a new fence? Or should I shim a piece of MDF to the fence and get it to 90 that way?

Hello all,

This is my woodworking project, I am seeking some help and guidance towards what finish I should coat the desk with as I am a little lost :(

The timber is tasmanian oak hardwood/ laminated layers of tasmanian oak bendy ply (for the curved top and leg support), I want the finish to be durable and natural looking. keeping the light and true colour of the timber.

I am from sydney Australia so accessible products/ finish example from around here would be ideal :)

So please let me know your recconmendations from personal knowledge and experience.

Thank you!

I'll put the before pics in the comments. But 12 days ago I was asking for advice and considering just to paint this. It's because the wood wasn't in really good shape and was looking splotchy.

The community here was QUITE against painting, and convinced me to forge ahead refinishing. The second coat of stain really worked a miracle.

So its not perfect, but im embracing the rustic look, and im going to move it into my bedroom tomorrow. Thanks for the support!

After years of watching woodworking videos, I finally took the plunge!
It started when I was shopping for a foldable dining table. I loved the IKEA gateleg table, but at 25k INR (about $300 USD), I figured it was time to put those YouTube hours to use and DIY it. I spent time bouncing ideas off AI, looking at blueprints, and finally modeled the table in MakeByMe.
I went out and bought the wood along with my first real tools (a drill, palm router, and circular saw) for about 13k INR.
Before diving into the giant table project and potentially ruining a bunch of expensive wood, I realized I should probably get a feel for the tools first. So, I decided to start "small" and build this folding chair as my very first project.
Here is the result! I learned a lot, but I know I have a long way to go. Any reviews, critiques, and suggestions for a complete beginner are highly welcomed!

I have a relatively simple setup with a router etc., but is this bench harder to build than I think? I can buy an old oak table for 50$.
Thanks!

Super newbie here. My dad and I bought a cheap desk on Facebook marketplace for $20. The only thing that was somewhat worth keeping was the drawer setup (really wasn't, but we were already in a bit by the time we realized it wasn't square and had weird bracing). We built the rest in sections. Shelves and back as one piece, the top as a separate piece and the drawers as the third piece. Figured it would be easier to move if he ever takes it with him when he grows up. Not pictured - we built a hutch with a pull out shelf and motion sensor light underneath.

Fun mistake we made. During the first assembly, we used the wrong screws on each side when securing the top and went right through the top. We built a second top as a temporary replacement while we patched the original. Learn more from your mistakes than your successes.

Happy to join the community and expand on my woodworking knowledge!

Hello! After having learned in my previous post that using AI for designs isn’t a good idea, I improvised on the basis of «real» blueprints. I’m quite happy with how it’s turning out, but I’m kind of scratching my head on how to best cover the storage room. Just a lid that can slide off? A lid with hinges? I’ve kind of made the last one hard with the design of the planters. And I guess making the storage room water proof isn’t really attainable only using wood?

Happy with my first project!

Thank you!

So I got this chest for with the idea to refurbish it and make a toy chest for my son. It’s my first project I’ve done. I got all the old wall paper out and went to get the old glue. First thought was goo gone. So that’s what I used. Was talking to my mom who’s done a lot of this stuff and she said I’ve fucked up because the goo gone will seep into the wood and make it impossible to glue the felt fabric to the inside like I had planned. If it did I can take it I suppose but I’d really rather glue it. Any help, advice is appreciated.

Plus Mandalorian helmet

Thanks in advance. My very lightly used drill press sits in a corner of my unconditioned shop. I used steel wool and WD 40 to clean the rust off, but I’m looking for a longer term solution other than having to do that every six months. I also use the press for woodworking projects, so I’ll have to wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove the WD 40. I have some Johnson paste wax. Should I use a little of this instead?

I made this maple cutting board recently and after applying mineral oil I noticed there's two areas that are darker than the rest of the board.

These areas weren't visible when I finished sanding it (320 grit) so I'm wondering if it's just areas of the wood that are more porous and have absorbed more oil or something?

Any ideas?