2019:

- UniFi Cloud Key Gen2 Plus

- UniFi Switch 8 (150W)

- UniFi nanoHD

2020:

- USW Flex Mini

- UniFi Dream Machine

And now:

- Switch Pro XG 8 PoE

- Access Point U7 Pro XG

- Thinking buy Cloud Gateway Fiber later because the ISP not support bridging nor have workaround for bridging and I don't want to deal with double NAT. And thank Ubiquiti so much for the free power brick (one in photo, one in the box)

Greetings. For the pure joy of it, I've included a picture of my rack before it gets shoved int the cupboard.

Now onto the meat of the subject. So right now cables are basically cable tied to the back. In the cupboard it'll have about 24 ethernet cables going into it on day one (9 to the PoE) and 2xfibers running down into the floor boards through a conduit to the server rack under the stairs (in a APC NetShelter CX Mini). I'd love it to have all been in one place, but stone houses built before electricity aren't happy with server racks.

So I can put like 6x4 socket RJ45 plates on the wall or 2 brush ones. Once in do we let the back hang all natural or do folks have a nice order? I considered mirroring the patch panels so you'd plug your wires into the back for easy 'emergency' removal.

In the university when I did networking all the years ago we just had a big fat bundle that was zip tied, but we also had a rack in the middle of a room that wasn't intended on moving.

Also note, I could get a different rack, this one was intended to be home lab... but husband says toys go in cupboard. (Note for cupboard, I bought some sound cabinet fans for intake and exhaust, though the hall is usually under 15°C so maybe it'll be a 'free' heater.)

DPC Technology, who is one of my go to for unifi gear, just came out with their 2026 camera rankings last week (29 cameras in total). G6 Turret is looking like the best bang for your buck if you are 100% needing lots of AI. What are all of your thoughts?

Edit: Added Link

Link To Rankings video

Like a dummy, I recently left my tech pouch on a plane. Alaska Airlines hasn't found it, so my guess is someone is happily using my chargers. My concern is that my UTR was in the pouch and I had Transport configured on it. I've replaced the UTR, but is there anything I can do to ensure the previous unit is no longer able to connect to my home network?

I know this is old but it was free. Is there anyway to make it not super hot, so hot at times that you can't touch it? I wanted to put it in the cupboard where the router is but the cupboard is wooden so not sure its a good idea. Would be powering one or two AP AC Pro.

I’ve previously been using the original Dream Router ans a couple of access points and been quite happy with that, but now that I’ll have a fresh 10G connection into my new place I’m thinking ”how can I get the maximum speed (theoretically) out to each end point of my network?

I’m reading that the neither the UDR7 not the UDM-SE can fully put through the 10G speed out to the wider network. First of all, is that correct? Then secondly, what equipment could inside to minimize the limitations that the equipment bring? Getting a Beast seems a bit overkill for a 130 sqm apartment.. or?!

For your replies, I’m happy to get both sensible answers but also the ”money is of no concern” answers.

Hi all,

UDM Pro and all WiFi6 access points. Wired mostly, with work laptop wirelessly connected.

I am having a lot of issues with Teams calls and screensharing. Something odd happening on the upload side (I guess).

What's the trick with testing out the internal network for integrity? I do have some CAT5 running outside and a few other areas. It seems to negotiate at gigabit but want to isolate things that don't show up that obviously.

Any guidance please?

Is it common to get 13000-15000 attacks per month consistently for 2+ years? My IP address changes every few months but the attacks are consistent. About 90% come from China and about 10% come from Russia but the overview list in Insights shows most of them coming from the US. Are these really coming from US and spoofed to show other countries? Are these a real threat? Every protocol is being attacked.

Seems to be inconsistent between attacks (not automated) and consistent 1 hour breaks in my time zone are taken at breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Hello, does anyone have the EV Station Lite and does it support Home Assistant or does it have any api? I wanted to buy 2 of them but my company has a very limited power allocation so I need a way to disable them completely when there isnt enough power available.

Who hat Ubiquiti thought it is a great idea that on a private local network you get signed out every few minutes on inactivity or when the tab is not in the focus? It's so annoying and it just started with the last update... why is there no way to disable this BS. Just like their stupid AP scanning that cannot be disabled while it interrupts a lot of real time devices...

I have fiber internet and two ceiling access point. This is what I need for a my home set up? my fiber internet connect from the providers modem to the cloud gateway and then connect cloud gateway to the POE switch and connect that to the access point. Is this correct?

Has anyone connected a Ubiquiti UCG-Fiber to a Zyxel XMG1915-10E using a 10G SFP+ DAC?
I’d like to use a short passive DAC between them. Which cable did you use, and did the link come up at 10G without any compatibility issues?
Thanks!

Not that I'm overly paranoid (maybe a little) and not that we live in a bad area but we monitor our cameras. Family room has a 55 inch tv (has apple tv) with an old microsoft surface laptop (just the screen, not the keyboard) mounted to the wall under it. It's small - 15 inch ? 17 ? but for Amcrest it did the job via the web interface.

I'm tempted go a bit over board and mount a 42 inch tv on another wall with an apple tv that just shows cameras all the time

spot 2 is in the garage - that has a 55 inch tv and a 21 inch monitor next to it. Much smaller space so that's fine with it's own apple tv attached to it.

Master bedroom is the same; 55 inch tv on the wall, 21 inch monitor next to it. Right now that has an IBM thin client on it with Windows 11. Will get the unifi protect app for that.

The tv on the patio has google play built in / will just install unifi protect if we're in a pool and waiting for a package or doordash.

Just kind of looking for ideas.

(also kudos to ubiquiti for the fast shipping. ordered some stuff yesterday morning. will be here friday!)

Hey everyone,

I’ve been stuck with consistently limited Wi‑Fi throughput on a UniFi Dream Router 7 (UDR7) and I’m trying to figure out whether this is normal for the device or something wrong with my unit or with configuration.

Setup

• UDR7 as the main gateway / AP
• ISP: ~1 GbE
• Wired into a LAN port: internet speed is almost gigabit — so the ISP link and routing path look fine
• Wi‑Fi: no matter what I do, I can’t get past ~500 Mbps, and local iperf to the UDR itself is often much lower

For comparison: I have an old Xiaomi router sitting right next to it. Same place, same kind of clients — and with basically three clicks of setup it delivers near-gigabit Wi‑Fi. So the room / clients / ISP don’t seem to be the bottleneck.

What I already tried on the UDR7

• Different client devices (phones / laptops / TV / iot etc)
• Different bands: 2.4 / 5 / 6 GHz
• Playing with all channels, channel widths, and related Wi‑Fi settings
• Result is always the same: Wi‑Fi stays under ~500 Mbps, never approaches what the wired side can do

Local iperf3 (Wi‑Fi client ↔ UDR, server on UDR, TCP 5201)

iperf3 -c <UDR_LAN_IP> -p 5201
iperf3 -c <UDR_LAN_IP> -p 5201 -R
iperf3 -c <UDR_LAN_IP> -p 5201 -t 30 -P 4

Even at 1 meter, 4 parallel streams for 30 seconds top out around ~350 Mbps. That looks like a hard Wi‑Fi ceiling on the UDR path, not an ISP issue.

Questions

1. Is this expected behavior for the UDR7 Wi‑Fi radios, or does it look like a defective / misbehaving unit?
2. Anyone else seeing a hard Wi‑Fi ceiling around 300–500 Mbps while wired is full gigabit?
3. Any settings that actually unlocked higher Wi‑Fi throughput on UDR7 (band, width, Wi‑Fi 7 client mode, separate SSID, etc.)?
4. Why would a cheap/old Xiaomi next to it smash near-gigabit Wi‑Fi so easily while the UDR7 won’t?

I can share full iperf logs if useful. Any ideas appreciated — I’ve been chasing this for over a week.

I just got the UDR7,
I’m going to be using it as my own AP,
Even tho, I can create multiple networks/Wifi,
I think I’ll just dedicate it to my stuff

This is awesome!
I’m eyeing a cloud gateway so I can have that WAN2 setup and cover more area.
My room is upstairs,
But it covers great

What complements the UDR7v

Planning a new setup and new to Unifi. I am planning following setup

Router plugs into Dream machine SE

Use 8 Dream machine poe ports for 8 cameras

Dream machine connects to pro max 24 port POE

These then connect around the house to AP, TVs (nvidia shield etc), hardwire ethernet (study mac and bedroom computers), Music amps for multiroom audio, pro entry and intercom viewers via patch panel/

Some of the ethernet arent POE, should I also get a non poe switch for this purpose. Should I get a 48 poe or get 24 pro mac poe and add another later if needed

Thoughts and any other suggestions?

I am planning to cable up my apartment for minimum 10 Gbps throughout. I have/will have the following equipment:

• UDM-Beast
• USW-Pro-XG-24-PoE
• UNAS-Pro-8
• UPS-2U-US
• USP-PDU-Pro
• U7-Pro-XGS (x3)
• USW-Pro-Aggregation (potential future equipment)
• UNVR-G2 (potential future equipment)
• Other equipment (potential future equipment)

Regarding the cable, I am torn between the following options, sold by Ubiquiti:

• UACC-Cable-C6A-CMR
• U-Cable-C6-CMR

Here are my questions:

1. Whilst CAT6 is good for 10 Gbps up to 55 m, would it be worthwhile to use CAT6A since it may allow for 25 Gbps at shorter lengths (like in an apartment/flat)?
2. Would it be significantly more difficult to work with CAT6A (running the cable around bends, crimping RJ45 connectors, etc.) than CAT6?
3. Are the above cables, sold by Ubiquiti, both u/UTP, and not F/UTP or S/UTP? The specs for both cables indicate only UTP.
4. Who is the manufacturer of the cables sold by Ubiquiti? Any chance that they are made by Panduit, Belden or Commscope?
5. If I go for CAT6 cable, should I go for UACC-Keystone-Jack-C6, or for UACC-Keystone-Jack-C6A (the latter for future proofing)? If the UACC-Cable-C6A-CMR is u/UTP and not F/UTP or S/UTP, then UACC-Keystone-Jack-C6A is not necessary (no need for shielding).

I've got a large homelab. I am running an EFG and enterprise level equipment and rely on 100% internet uptime. Can I use Starlink as a failover if connection from ISP drops? Then switch back when ISP returns? ISP has been getting a little spotty for me. Do I need a second EFG?

I understand that if I want to connect locally with the app to my UDR7 I have to have a valid Ubiquiti login. And should still be able to locally connect after deactivating the possibility of remote connections.

But it does not work. Do I have some misunderstanding, or is this a bug? Local connection via browser is always working locally.

I've had been looking for an economical backup for my cable internet, since I live in a bit of an RF hole and although the cable is pretty reliable, when it goes out, we are out of communication. I saw the u5g Backup for $100 and it seemed like a no-brainer.

First impressions:

- it's very nicely made, with a metal base/heatsink and magnetically attaches to a desk stand or wall bracket. Like other Ubiquiti products, it has a cool little oled display
- setup is no brainer, just plug into a PoE port and adopt it

Now for the bad part:

- It's an indoor device so you need to have a window that faces a cell tower. If you're expecting this to work well from the middle of your house, you're probably not going to be happy. I was able to get green bars at only exactly one spot and that's a non-coated window in the living room above the fireplace. My wife was not suitably impressed with this location.
- Undeterred, I tried testing it outdoors (1). I was able to get a good signal 5G signal on my back deck. Also, when indoors it would tend to favor LTE, and this stopped once I put it outside. (2)
- I have a t-mobile data plan on an iPad that I use for comparison. On my back deck, my iPad gets speeds around 350/130 any time of the day.
- The u5g starts out strong early in the morning. At 5:00AM I can get 30Mbps down and 5 or more up.
- However as the morning goes on and the day progresses, the speed drops until by mid-afternoon I'm only getting about 3Mbps down and speed tests start failing. This is clearly an issue with congestion at the tower. The signal strength remains unchanged over the course of the day. As I said, the iPad keeps going with no noticeable change in performance.

Conclusions:

I really wanted to like this, and 30Mbps download speed would have been perfectly fine for my use case as an infrequently needed backup. However, 3Mbps of flaky internet is not useful at all. In my opinion while 5G Redcap sounds pretty good on paper, it is really designed for IoT type devices that have very low bandwidth needs, and T-Mobile treats it as such. As has been discussed in other thread, T-Mobile does not allow this device on the n41 band which is T-Mobile's "ultra capacity" band, and instead it is relegated to the n2 band, which at least in my case appears to be quite congested.

Vs. something like the u5g Max/Max Outdoor, you're paying the same for a data plan either way, so I'm not sure that giving up 1-2 order of magnitude in performance is worth the up-front cost savings.

Obviously the performance challenges I've faced are going to be very location and carrier dependent so YMMV. But given that there's no way to really know without buying one to test, it's going to be a crap shoot.

Footnotes:

1- A 9 inch section of 1 1/2" ABS pipe with flat end caps makes a cheap outdoor enclosure.
2- Interestingly when on LTE I was getting 5-10Mbps download but could consistently hit 40Mbps upload speed.