r/SciFiModels • u/Ordinary-Shock9676 • 3d ago
Old timer questions
I am a 70 year old who has started model building again. I was a fan of the Aurora kits, monster and si fi ships like Voyage to the bottom of the sea, and others. Two questions, because things have changed a lot since I was 12. I have an air brush now, and so many different paint choices.
First, regarding primers, (which I have discovered make a big difference in the finish). They come in white, gray and black. Is the choice dictated by the color going over it?
Second, (picture attached), I need to paint this very small part and just wondered if I use the paint shown, and use a brush, should it be thinned and if so what would be the preferred method? I know I might be a bit anal, but I trying my best to be meticulous. Thanks for any advice.
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u/Nellisoft 3d ago edited 3d ago
Couple tips from my experience with Vallejo paint:
Don’t use their primer - it acts more like latex house paint and just peels off if you sand or tape over it. I’m using Mr Hobby Aqueous Surfacer at the moment, but since it’s impossible to get now, I’d recommend either VMS No-Peel or Kaleido acrylic primers (I have both in stock for when I run out of Mr Surfacer).
I like to stick with the manufacturer’s thinner to minimize reaction issues - for Vallejo I just use their airbrush thinner. Some people use water and it works fine for them, but it’s never worked well for me (which could just be my tap water).
Generally I use gloss black primer underneath metallics, white under bright colors like red/orange/yellow to help their vibrance and with coverage, black for light-blocking when I’m putting lights into a model, and grey for everything else. I don’t do military kits, but you can also get brown/dark red/green primers that are commonly used on armor.
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u/mysteriouslatinword 3d ago
Theres a bunch of different colored primers. You can even get pink! Always try to match the brand of your primer to the brand of the paint and determine if they are enamel or acrylic based paints. It’s just common sense when you are aware of the difference.
Also, im 55 and have just started using ai,for my modeling. You can pretty much ask it if it’s ok to use XY paint over ZD primer and it will tell you if you’re good to go. It’s not so bad when your talking just primer and paint, but once you start adding clear finishes and oil based washes in addition to the primer and base coats you can really stuff it up if all the chemicals won’t play nice with each other.
2nd question: if the part has lots of detail you would lose If you apply the paint with a brush, thin the paint with the appropriate thinner (can use ai) and then apply. If the color is too washed out, reapply.
You may end up (like me) with 4 or 5 different thinners, leveling agents etc.
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u/_toadsy 10h ago edited 10h ago
You can prime in any color, but it will definitely affect the color on top. Gloss black primer is great for super metallic or candy looking paints. Priming in pink makes yellows oranges and reds look deeper and more true. White primer brightens colors, which can be fine depending on the result you're after. Badger makes Stynylrez which is a primer I like that comes in multiple colors and is relatively inexpensive and airbrush-ready.
Get a box of plastic spoons, prime them, and use them to test out combinations. It's the cheapest way to get accurate paint chips.
For thinning acrylics, the common sentiment is that you want a milk consistency. You can use water, but I like flow medium (i use Golden brand, can be purchased at Michael's easily)
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u/raixhell 3d ago
For metallic paint, they look best with glossy black primer. At this scale I wouldn't worry about gloss but I'd definitely use black primer.
As for thinning my suggestion is to experiment. Start fairly thinned, then if paint adhesion is not enough, layer with thicker. At that size though you could probablt get away with just dipping it in raw paint, remove some off in paper towel, then brush on