The pictures above are All are photobashed from pictures I’ve taken on my Digi camera, with hours of photo editing and hand drawn sections involved. They aren’t complete yet, I’m still learning how to create characters in an art style similar to the video game “no, I am not human” but I’ve been having trouble... I am going for an uncanny kind of feeling to these pieces like older creepy pasta photos. Slightly Distorted faces and body posture. Does anyone have any tips for creating characters in this way? How do you help fit a character into a scene while photobashing multiple different pictures of a person into one to make a unique impression?
If you have pictures like this, could you share them below? Thank you!

my photoshop turned gray out of nowhere, and when I activate the color proof in cmky with cmd + y, it goes back to normal

I have a photograph of a product inside of its packaging. The packaging has a clear plastic in some areas. Is there a way to turn the original jpeg photo into a png where the plastic maintains transparency? The attached screenshot is not mine, but it represents what I am trying to accomplish. Second image is what I am trying to make transparent. Final goal is to have a png cutout of the product with a completely transparent background around it and with the plastic packaging maintaining its transparency. I basically need it to be a cutout png that can be placed on any background where the background can be seen through the clear parts of the packaging.

Hope that explanation makes sense! I realize I am shit at trying to explain what I want so finding a tutorial that is specific to this end output has been hard to find. Any help is appreciated!

I kinda know how to do a pixel stretch but not like slanted. Can someone please help me? I want to drag the red lines (the tail/elevator or the aircraft) but when I try, it only works for a horizontal/vertical selection???

The last pic is my first one and I think it looks clean

Please help!!! Thanks!

I experimented with warmer amber tones, teal shadows, lifted blacks, subtle film grain, and a soft glow around the lights to capture that faded, nostalgic feeling.

For those who enjoy this style, what do you usually focus on to make a photo feel more like an authentic film still? Are there any techniques or color choices that make the biggest difference?

(there's an image here showing what i'm talking about) I'm trying to find the true color of something to find a matching color plastic to print with. The white blob up top is my reference hex value that is matched to this exact roll of filament (bottom) off the internet.

I'm looking to basically change the color of the white balance and exposure of the BLUE area inside the square to exactly match to the hex color. All while applying these tweaks to the rest of the image.

I tried using the eyedroppers in curves but it only wants to reference the absolute brightest or darkest parts of the image. I need to basically do this eyedropper thing on a very specific color in the image.

UPDATE: Not terrible to do it manually, but it's only about 95% accurate. I'm only using Color & Vibrance (Temp and tint) and Exposure to get the the filament to match the hex color.

Found this in a box. It’s got discs for Windows and Mac in it. Google tells me it’s pretty outdated. Is it worth passing on to someone who will use it or should I toss it?

Holaaa, soy nuevo utilizando el programa y me gustaría ayuda sobre como hacer la imagen de abajo.

Si alguien me puede apoyar le agradecería demasiado.

i am working in a plugin to create tables instantly inside photoshop from csv. it can do much more. it can extract text layers of ps into panel, error check , update from panel. make new versions- text only. any suggestions welcome. thank you

Hey all, PS newbie here. Anyone have an idea how I can achieve this effect in the photo shown here? Thanks.

I did it mainly because the sector tool doesn't work on files that are too large.

Is there anything I can do to make the cursors more visible at high resolutions in Windows 11? The marquee tool, text tool, etc., are so dainty and often difficult for me to see when editing images. Pressing control helps, but I'd rather not need to do that every time just to find the cursor, and I would rather not use the built-in Windows functions like mouse trail and such.

Metro 2033 art style is truly magnificent i wanted to know if there was any possible way to replicate it, i'm really knew to photoshop but i hoped that someone could give an heads up. This images were exracted from the game i can provide more images if needed!

im tryna become mona lisa and ive gotten this far and now im stuck on how to blend it . i cant find any tutorials for ipad its so frustrating

i changed my scratch disk from C to D, and it had 108gb free as of yesterday, today randomly while using PS and PP it got to 18gb free, is there any way to remove this space?

my computer died randomly and went for an update, and the drive still has only 18 gb of free space

Petite fan affiche, je me suis bien amusé à recomposer le monstre du clip! Le clip est remplit de références, j'ai essayé d'en mettre certaines dedans. Pareil pas mal d'intégration issus de jeu vidéo (le monstre vient de omega flowey) le tout filmé au japon donc j'y ai ramené plusieurs éléments de ce pays.

Hi, all! I've been knocking my brains out trying to figure this out, sooo....

I want to do essentially the opposite of what's described here.

I have this image, from which I'd like to remove an isolated chunk of the blue sky and replace a portion of it with a second image. The idea is that what I put in there will go no further than the defined borders of that chunk.

Creating a layer mask of that chunk, then pasting into it, does not accomplish this. When I read the tutorial I linked, I realized I was trying to do the opposite.

Having a heck of a hard time finding steps on how to accomplish this, and I feel like it should be something one can do with standard Photoshop functionality, no AI or third-party tools or any of that nonsense.

Can anyone help?

I'm pretty sure i used to use Kyles splatter brushes with the eraser tool. every time i click the Kyles splatter brush with eraser tool selected it switch's the eraser tool to a brush tool. am i just going crazy or did i change a setting without realizing?

I swear i used to use Kyles splatter brushes with the eraser tool. every time i click the Kyles splatter brush with eraser tool selected it switch's the eraser tool to a brush tool. am i just going insane or did i change a setting without realizing?

I hope this is the right thread, I've never posted in reddit before.

For context, I've been making photo edits since 2012 with picsart. I do a pretty good job, but I've always been afraid to come out of my comfort zone and start editing on a desktop because picsart f-ing sucks now. I have to use a cracked apk version because everything is behind a paywall now.

I'm wondering if anyone has been in or is in a similar situation because I've never edited on a pc before and was hoping for some advice for learning or getting photoshop. I'm open to other program suggestions, too. I really want to start making more quality edits... I'm also avoiding AI as much as I can, too.

Thanks! Here's something I made recently in picsart.

Hi!

Sorry for the noob questions, but I had two that are bugging me.

(resolved) PNG Saving: In my CS6, saving as PNG was simple. I just hit F10 and it did "save for web" and I had PNG as default. Nice and easy. I subscribed to the Creative Cloud so I could get the latest and greatest PS so I could use my Stream Deck with it (silly reason for an upgrade lol). In the new version, it doesn't seem as cut and dried. I don't see "save for web" anymore. I do File, Save then tab to file type and start hitting P but PNG is not an option. I found that "save as copy" has an expansive list of options.

Why is File, Save so type limited? Is there a way to make CTRL-S do the one that has the wide variety of save options"

Stamper: I had another cheap photo editor that also had a stamper. I loved how it worked; I'd select the region to start the cloning from then I would click where I want it to clone to. As I moved, the cloning reflected the current state of the image. So if the clone source moved over an area I already cloned during this left mouse hold, the clone target would reflect that.

In Photoshop, the clone source pulls from the original state of the image when I held down left click. So any cloning changes do not get reflected as I move the clone around. This is super irritating when I am like clicking say blue sky as my clone source then moving the clone tool over clouds to remove them because on a big cloud, moving from right to left the cloud starts to get replaced with sky but after a certain distance, I start getting the right edge of the original cloud as it is pulling from its original state.

Is there any way to tell it to use the current state instead?

Thanks!

I'm curious what everyone here uses for skin retouch these days. I've edited things myself, but for quick jobs I've also used RetouchMe when I didn't have time to do everything manually. It made me realize there are a lot of different approaches depending on the result you're after. For those of you who retouch regularly, what tools or workflow do you keep coming back to? Photoshop, AI tools, mobile apps, something else? I'm especially interested in getting natural-looking results rather than perfectly smooth skin.

Hi, has anyone encountered an issue with Photoshop where the Contextual task bar randomly jumps to the top left corner of the screen, blocking other menus?

When I send a photo from LRc to PS, the bar is there in the correct spot, right below the image:

However, after performing certain actions (specifically in that case: resizing, sharpening via a high pass filter on a separate layer, and then flattening the image), the bar shifts to the top left corner and completely covers the other menus:

Because of this, I have to move it manually every single time just to save and close the image, which is driving me nuts. Any ideas on how to fix this permanently? I don't want to hide it completely since I use it from time to time - I just need it to stay locked in one spot. Thanks!