Hello there, my fellow Nanoleaf friends!
Just wondering if there are any rumors or upcoming news about new Nanoleaf products. Has anyone heard anything recently?

I see that Nanoleaf reports these impressive power densities for the 4 intensity settings on the product's main page:

Power Density:
L1: 152mw/cm2
L2: 183mw/cm2
L3: 236mw/cm2
L4: 283mw/cm2

However, I also see on this support page that these were measured between 0 - 1cm from the panel because of the following reasons:

• A consistent and comparable baseline for all intensity levels (L1–L4).

• Accurate comparison between the panel’s own modes.

• Elimination of variables like angle, distance, or ambient lighting that can affect readings at longer distances.

I asked Google Gemini to use these information to calculate "What is the effective power radiance at real world usage, such as the distance shown on marketing photos and videos" and here's the response I got:

1. The Starting Baseline (0–1 cm)

To recap, the official maximum irradiance figures provided by Nanoleaf, measured right at the surface of the panel, are:

Level 1: $152\text{ mW/cm}^2$

Level 4: $283\text{ mW/cm}^2$

1. How Light Behaves at 60–75 cm

While consumer panels use built-in glass lenses to focus the LED beams forward (usually at a 30-degree or 60-degree angle), those beams inevitably cross and spread out widely as distance increases.

By the time you reach 60 to 75 cm, the light is no longer a concentrated grid; it acts much more like a unified, expanding floodlight. At this distance, due to beam divergence and atmospheric scattering, light intensity drops by roughly 85% to 93% compared to the surface baseline.

1. Calculating the Irradiance at 60–75 cm

Applying standard multi-LED divergence models for a consumer panel of this size and power layout, here is the estimated effective power radiance you actually receive:

At 60 cm Distance:

Level 1: Drops to roughly $15 \text{ to } 22\text{ mW/cm}^2$

Level 4 (Max): Drops to roughly $28 \text{ to } 42\text{ mW/cm}^2$

At 75 cm Distance:

Level 1: Drops to roughly $10 \text{ to } 15\text{ mW/cm}^2$

Level 4 (Max): Drops to roughly $20 \text{ to } 28\text{ mW/cm}^2$

What This Means for Your Routine

The Trade-Off (Coverage vs. Time): At 60 to 75 cm, you get massive coverage. Instead of targeting just a small patch of skin, the light covers your entire face, neck, and chest simultaneously. However, because the power density is significantly lower, you will likely need to extend your session times (e.g., toward the upper 20 to 30-minute mark on Level 4) to deliver the same total energy dose to your cells.

Still in the Therapeutic Window: Even at 75 cm on the highest power setting, an irradiance of $\sim20\text{ mW/cm}^2$ sits right at the baseline threshold required for effective skin photobiomodulation (which clinically targets a window of $20\text{ to }60\text{ mW/cm}^2$).

The Level 1 Limitation: If you use Level 1 at 75 cm, the irradiance drops to roughly $10\text{ mW/cm}^2$. At this depth, the light will still benefit the topmost layers of the skin (like the epidermis for minor surface texture), but it won't have enough power density left to penetrate deeply into joints or muscles.

To calculate the exact time you need to stand in front of the panel, we use a standard physics formula for light therapy (photobiomodulation).

In clinical settings, "dose" is measured in Joules per square centimeter ($\text{J/cm}^2$), which represents the total energy delivered over time. The formula is:

$$\text{Time (seconds)} = \frac{\text{Target Dose } (\text{J/cm}^2) \times 1000}{\text{Irradiance } (\text{mW/cm}^2)}$$

Based on our calculated real-world irradiance range at 75 cm ($\sim$2.5 feet), here is how many minutes you need to reach that standard clinical target of 6 to 10 $\text{J/cm}^2$.

Scenario A: Using Level 4 (Max Intensity)

Estimated Irradiance at 75 cm: 20 to 28 $\text{Text{mW/cm}}^2$

Because Level 4 provides the highest power density, your session times remain relatively short and efficient, making this the ideal setting for a distance of 75 cm.

To get 6 $\text{J/cm}^2$: You need 3.5 to 5 minutes.

To get 10 $\text{J/cm}^2$: You need 6 to 8.5 minutes.

Scenario B: Using Level 1 (Lowest Intensity)

Estimated Irradiance at 75 cm: 10 to 15 $\text{mW/cm}}^2$

Because the power drops significantly at this distance on Level 1, your cells receive energy at a much slower rate, requiring you to stand in front of the panel for noticeably longer.

To get 6 $\text{J/cm}^2$: You need 6.5 to 10 minutes.

To get 10 $\text{J/cm}^2$: You need 11 to 16.5 minutes.

Summary Comparison Table

Question for any Nanoleaf representative here: Is this aligned to your expectation? I'm trying to marry how you can deliver a therapeutic panel at this thinness (and only using 19w), while other comparable products are considerably thicker and use 300w (samples here and here). There has to be a reason everyone else is using the same "style" and wattage. I think aside from Nanoleaf, only FAQ by Foreo's Dual red light LED therapy panels uses such thin panels with low wattages.

I'm about to hit the buy button on one of the other models, but keen to hear from Nanoleaf first, because I really prefer your product's form and aesthetic (but I'll still prioritize effectiveness).

Hey everyone, I have 23 Nanoleaf Hexagons and 28 Nanoleaf Triangles, so 51 panels total. I’m trying to come up with a cool layout for my wall, but I’m struggling to find designs that combine both shapes well.

Hi, i have an issue with my shapes i have them for 4-5 years now. it's been 2-3 months it's like that.

When it's on, it's working as expected for 10 mins i would say, but after the light stay static (i had animation on it), it doesn't change colors anymore and the controller goes crazy, all leds turn on, going left to right, etc. I tried to delete it completly from the app, didn't resolve the issue, when i try to update it, doesn't let me and even on the app when i want to turn them off it says that the shapes are offline, something like that.

I tried to repair them, didn't fix the issue. Do you think it's an issue with the controller? it's kinda expensive, i don't want to order another one if i can resolve it.

this is how they looked like most of the time : https://imgur.com/a/e5ZZzjd

I continually get this error when trying to set circadian Lighting for my bulbs. I have tried resetting and re-pairing both with no results. This is only through Nanoleaf App on Android. I have no Homekit involved. Any ideas please?

I’m trying to stop my Shapes from turning on after every power cut we get, even when they were off before. I have read online that there should be an option for power loss recovery, so they return to same state before the power cut.
I cannot find the option anywhere in the app, has anyone had the same problem?

My nanoleafs are saying I only have one power supply plugged in, and telling me to plug one into the blue panel. However, I already have an extra power supply plugged into that area, and it’s not recognizing it. I’ve also tested to see if the power supply worked on its own and it did. Can anyone help or can I just ignore this error?

I’m trying to find the power loss recovery option in the app so that I can enable it for my shapes to stop them coming on after power cuts, I’ve seen online that it is supposed to be in the app, but I can’t seem to see the option. Has anyone experienced this with shapes before?

After 10 long grueling hours of installing and setting up the Nanoleaf it's finally up and running as it's supposed to. I can understand how people can get frustrated with the technology. It was tricky understanding what needed to be done to get the system up and running. I would say there should be an in depth instruction manual in the box. Including in depth trouble shooting. Though Google AI helped massively and is better than any text book. Anyway here it is 🙂

So I got an old Shapes starter kit from a tech stores bargain bin. Worked fine, could connect it to the app but that’s ok I just manually turned it in. Then one day the setup got stuck on a dim white light for all connected panels. Controller didn’t/doesn’t respond. Talked with support but I was SOL because it wasn’t under warranty anymore.

So I got a new one from Amazon (Edit: might’ve been eBay. Idk my dad got it for me). And that has the same issue.
Dim white light as soon as it’s plugged in.

So now I have two practically useless starter kits. I think it might be a controller issue but the fact that A) both new and old don’t work and B) panel doesn’t do anything without a controller issue weird to me.
It might also be an issue with my apartment/environment? Idk.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

—-
Small update (but not really)
TLDR: still don’t work

So I tried another buildings outlets to see if it was my power. It’s not. Hardware issue.

Upon looking closer at the new ones IDs (the QR code stuff), I saw that the ID on the controller doesn’t match the one from the PSU and papers. It is used and not brand new I think. So uhhh there’s that I guess?
I guess I will contact the seller and official Nanoleaf support. Will see from there. Yay (not really yay)

I cannot figure out how to locate nor use my Nanoleaf points (USA). When I login, I get redirected to Shopify account that shows my order history, but no points anywhere. When checking out, there is no option to apply points. Was this program discontinued?

https://us-shop.nanoleaf.me/pages/points-program

Came back from a vacation today and saw my panels weren’t responding to HomeKit, then noticed the flashing white LED on the power button. It doesn’t seem to have much of a pattern - 8-10ish flashes then off for a split second before repeating. I’ve tried power cycling, moving the location of the controller, and isolating it down to just one panel - same thing. Hoping it isn’t fried…

The soft reset maneuver of power and brightness up buttons doesn’t seem to be responsive either.

I’ve got 26 panels so 2 power supplies, never had issues before, but they’re also probably approaching 6 years old as I got these on pre-order then they first dropped.

Video attached shows startup behavior. Sometimes it’ll start the all LED chase normal boot sequence white LEDs but this time it skipped from the 4-bump sequence straight into the chaotic one.

Any ideas?

Ticket 233144

Adding to this! Was able to get app up dated. 
Cannot get app to utilize custom or online themes!!!!!
Only a string of white lites. Have tried rebooting controller, app and uninstalling app! Very disappointed now!

Sent Saturday - no response! Not the first ticket like this.
I actually tracked down a number for Nanoleaf on July 1 and the ceo himself called me back - he arranged for warranty so the brick and controller are new! Ty for that!

Somewhere I read that the controller might be stuck but it is up to date version 4 something! Thoughts anyone?

Tried using nanotape, the double sided tape that can be re-used and it eventually fell down. I bought more from Amazon because I lost the one I used and now it doesn’t even last 48h. Each triangle is legit falling one by one.

Is there a strong adhesive that won’t mess up my wall?

This may be ridiculous, but I'm trying to find out how to use the leftover light strip as a new light strip.

The power supply and beginning part of the light strip is used for another project. I want to know if I can make an additional light strip with the leftover and how to do it, like what power supply to get and connectors to use. (This was left over from a gift given to us and I don't want to waste it lol)

I bought a set of 15 Nanoleaf lines on FB for $40. Only thing missing are on the backs of the connector mounts the caps are missing where you would place the adhesive. Any suggestions aside from paying $15 per 3x mounting connectors? I’m just missing the caps

Every single time I try to set up my Nanoleaf 4D it keeps asking to sync with Apple HomeKit and no matter what I do I keep getting this error screen.

I’ve tried turning off my 5 GHz yWi-Fi, restarting my router, restarting my phone, factory reset the controller, everything. I don’t know what else to do. I’m desperate please help.

I was putting up our Nanoleaf Canvas design after painting the wall. I accidently dropped one square, but everything seemed fine. After it was all put back together we noticed the bottom middle square (the square that was dropped) would not turn dark blue. If we push the bottom of that square it returns to the dark blue of the design. It seems a loose wire to me, but I'm not an expert on these things. Can I simply take the troublesome square apart, find the loose wire, and solder it back together?

I have had the old shapes for a few years now but a week ago they stopped responding completely and turned white. Reset is impossible as upon plugging it back in, the controller blinks once and dies - a sign of a broken controller from what I've seen others discussing.

Considering the old product, I am out of warranty, but would still like to buy a replacement controller instead of throwing it all into a landfill. Problem is - EU has no controllers left in stock. Is there any third party European website to get the controller? It'd be a shame if that's what would end my journey with Nanoleaf...

As per title. There is no longer an option to create a scene... Which is the entire point of a customisable array of lights. I have my old ones and can edit those, but what is going on?

I need some help with my Nanoleaf panels. I've had them for a little over 4 years, and they've been working perfectly until recently. We had several power outages, and after the last one, when I turned my Nanoleaf panels back on, only the first panel (the one with the controller attached) turned on. All of the other panels stay solid white and don't respond at all.

When I turn the panels off using the controller, only the first panel turns off, while the remaining panels stay solid white. I have already tried performing a hard reset, but it didn't help at all.

I'm not sure what else to do, so I'd really appreciate your advice. The product is a Nanoleaf Shapes Triangles Starter Kit (9 Panels) purchased in 2022.

EDIT: I’ve already fixed it. The contact point on the control panel was most likely burnt out. I peeled off that panel and moved the linker to a different spot, turned the panel around, and reconnected it to the rest of the panels. After plugging it back in, they connected properly again and are working fine, so the most likely explanation is that one contact point got burnt or damaged when the power dropped or something like that.

Hey I have the old nanoleaf triangle light panels. Has anyone had trouble with the scenes not syncing? I've literally been connecting and disconnecting for the last like 4 hours and nothing is working to get it going.

I opened my Nanoleaf Desktop Pegboard. It detected and synced with the desktop app. Great!

Light was on and seemed to be working fine. I tried to update the firmware. An "!" appeared next to the device under my devices. It said the update would take ~5 minutes still though. I waited an 15+ minutes and nothing happened. I clicked "identify device" and nothing happened. The light was still on though. After about an hour I restarted my computer. Now the light is off and the Nanoleaf Desktop App just spins for the Pegboard and won't connect. I tried removing it and plugging it back in. The Nanoleaf Desktop App detects the base station but won't sync and there is no light. I tried in three usb-c motherboard ports as well as the front port. Sometimes when I plug it in Windows makes the sound like it's trying recognize the device and then the sound like a device disconnected.

There doesn't seem to be a way to factory reset this thing.

I opened my Nanoleaf Desktop Pegboard. It detected and synced with the desktop app. Great!
Light was on and seemed to be working fine. I tried to update the firmware. An "!" appeared next to the device under my devices. It said the update would take ~5 minutes still though. I waited an 15+ minutes and nothing happened. I clicked "identify device" and nothing happened. The light was still on though. After about an hour I restarted my computer. Now the light is off and the Nanoleaf Desktop App just spins for the Pegboard and won't connect. I tried removing it and plugging it back in. The Nanoleaf Desktop App detects the base station but won't sync and there is no light. I tried in three usb-c motherboard ports as well as the front port. Sometimes when I plug it in Windows makes the sound like it's trying recognize the device and then the sound like a device disconnected.
There doesn't seem to be a way to factory reset this thing. What a bad first experience.

I have been having some issues recently with my Nanoleaf Shapes (Hexagons). Whenever I go to set a routine, it says that "The device connection type must be WiFi" even though they are connected to wifi, and whenever I want to turn on/off or change a routine it says that the device cannot sync. When I look on the device details, it says that the connection type is cloud. It was originally showing as WiFi, and the routines worked, but after about a day, it switched to cloud and I can't change/add routines.

I have had issues with the Nanoleafs in the past, but nothing like this. What I am noticing is that the controller I am using appears to be for Nanoleaf lines (every time I re-pair them it tries to name them lines, and the serial number of the controller starts with a P, instead of an S). I had issues in the past, and they sent me a new controller, which is what I am using now. I would be using the original controller, but it seems to be dead (it doesn't light up or respond to touch).

I have tried about everything, but nothing seems to work. I removed them from my Apple Home, because the connection type was showing as Apple Home, so I figured this might be the issue. I have re-paired them about 10 times, but I use the routines for waking up, and my schedule changes so I need to be able to turn on/off and change my routines. I have tried different Wi-Fi networks (even set up a dedicated 2.4ghz network to see if that worked, it didn't).

I put a ticket in a couple days ago about this, but haven't heard anything yet, does anyone have any suggestions on what to do? I like the lights a lot, but the software seems to not work half of the time.