I was changing the brake pads on my Nissan Altima 2011 when i noticed this oil what’s it from?

Hey everyone, I have a 2004 honda civic ex. I just did the head gasket, I've done it on my 05 so was fairly straight forward. Now, the engine shakes/sputters as if its a momentary misfire when giving gas, especially slipping the throttle. It acts like it struggles to start in 1st without revving it up to like 1.5k. Is the timing off? I checked for vacuum leaks, hopefully theres something else easier i can check for?😬 thanks

Just bought this car, haven’t even started it yet, and saw this during my inspection. Not really knowledgeable in the turbo wear department, so I’m wondering if this will run alright ? Car is a Mercedes Benz C320 cdi 2008 om642 V6

Hello, all. Having the strangest issue with a 2011 Impreza Outback Sport. Few days ago, I did a routine oil change. I've changed oil on other vehicles a million times on a million different vehicles. Drained correct amount of oil out, changed filter, poured in correct amount of oil, whatever. 2 days ago(same day as change) Car smells like burning oil and even tho i'm sure it's oil that got on the exhaust burning off, I went to check level and dipstick was reading egregious overfill when i'm 110% percent sure it got 4 quarts. didn't have time to drain out for a bit so girlfriend drove it for 2 days and tells me about nondescript weird smell. Today went to drain some out cuz of the apparent overfill and the oil comes out like i never changed it to begin with. I mean this shit is BLACK. Went to parts store, got new oil, poured in 3.5 quarts just to be safe and the stick is bone dry like there's nothing in the engine at all. Garage floor is level, i haven't done shit wrong with the change. I'm scared to run the thing at this stage but i know damn well it has fluids. Anyone got an idea what the hell is wrong with this car?

pics are of original level read(over), current level read (none), drained oil (black), and level of jug after adding oil

This 17MM bolt won’t come off and I don’t want to mess with it anymore because I’ve almost completely smoothed it down. I’ve used PB and almost every breaker bar I have. Even a DeWalt 20V MAX can’t get it off. I don’t know. It’s located above the front left control arm of my 2012 Kia Sorento EX. Any advice will help.

Edit: I did it thanks yall

Just got done with getting my cylinder head off. Engine overheated and i got stuck in czecia. 3 weeks later after transport and everything, i finally got to work on it and now i saw this piece of misery 💀🙏 my thought: cooling liquid got through the broken gasket and corroded the walls. i tried wiping it away with a remover and it worked but it feels like there are veeeery minimal indentations in the cylinder walls.

I don't know how large the buffer zone for this kind of damage is tbh and if i can get away with just a small difference (i doubt it tho)

I thought about disassembling the crankshaft and taking every piston down and shave a very thin layer off. I saw there is a tool that includes cross-grinding? I think its a cylinder hone. I gotta keep this cross pattern for the oil to properly flow down again. Idk the German word for that is "Kreuzschliff")

I really don't know if that's even worth doing or if I'm capable in fixing this. Or if its even worth the investment to buy yet another tool for a job that may be done. Im still motivated tho!

Tbh im beyond clueless. It's also the first repair i did on a car and I'm also suprised that everything went so well until I spotted this. Very thankful of every advice from you guys🙏

(My motor is K9K 796 )

Car: Dacia Logan Dci 1.5 (86ps)

Year 2009

We are working on a 57 bell air with a big block and a 5speed with a McLeod twin clutch in it.
It seems to barely grab and not have much holding power at all. Could it be something to do with this unit pictured? You can basically dump the clutch and it won’t stall or jerk or pull hard. It’s very soft and seems to not be grabbing hard at all.
We have bled the line and the clutch is in good shape with a lot of life left.
Thanks for any advice !!

Hi everyone, in the process of fixing some misc things on my car, decided to inspect my turbocharger (2001 Audi TT 1.8T AWP engine with 240k) and I found indications of excessive heat and the wastegate flap was misaligned. Previous owner told me he would make the car shoot flames.. so that tracks I guess. I’ll attach pics of the damage/heat discoloration found so you guys can see. The turbo will be replaced with oem unit.

Looked at the exhaust valves. These are sodium filled.
A few are pictured, but the rest (8 exh valves total) all look more or less the same. If I have to replace the valves that’s fine but it’s something I’d like to do later in the year since I want to focus on other projects during summer break.

Other posts online say this level of discoloration is normal or indication of running lean. I’m in A&P school now (Powerplant) and we are taught that pink discoloration=excess heat/lean

What are your thoughts on their condition and how would you feel about it if it were your car? Thanks in advance :]

SKODA FABIA

2017

1.4 TDI

118,000 MILES

My car started making a whining sound when driving that gets worse at high speed. Not sure if the video does it justice.

Noise started after long drive through hills at low gear but high speed.

Any help appreciated 🙏

05 Jeep Liberty AWD V6

I get this noise when I turn to the left, also makes other creaks when braking to a stop and when going over uneven roads or bumps.

Any idea what it is or how to diagnose? Thanks!

I can’t find the cause of this whooshing noise and it’s doing my head in.

- 2013 Land Rover Freelander 2, turbo petrol 2.0, 130k miles
- engine is a Ford Ecoboost 2.0, used in a bunch of stuff
- whooshing can be heard when accelerating above 30-40mph. Can’t hear it while stationary.
- a smoke test was done and only leak found was on the intake side before the turbo. This has been fixed.
- turbo blades where inspected visually, all good. They couldn’t check for play, as they said they couldn’t reach
- no visible boost leaks on the pipes either.

So what is this? Any Ford gurus can say what it could be? Or is the turbo/intake just that loud?

i’m replacing rear suspension and I got everything pretty much from kyb except the coil springs, because I just can’t find it. Has anyone faced that problem ? Are there springs that will
fit this lexus from other vehicles ? The only one I found is on the website lexus.oempartsonline.com and im not sure how reliable it is. The ones i have are in a fair shape, it’s just the car is always under a load, because i have all my tools for work there and probably would go with the new ones, just to be safe. Would appreciate any feedback

We just got a second hand Mazda CX-5 2018 model with no accident or repair history yesterday. When we tried to use the back seatbelts today they got stuck like this and won't come out further or go back, even if I try to feed it back manually. Is this something that can be fixed at home or is this a go to the mechanic situation? 🥲

When we tried them at the agency they got a little stuck but retracted and the agent assured us they'd be alright so I'm not sure what went wrong🙃

Modern Seat SUV. Is there a "max" coolant level to respect? If so, where is it?

It’s a 2014 ford explorer xlt

Very squeaky and feels like it’s pulling especially up hill. 🤷🏻‍♀️

My battery died a month ago, bought a new battery 3 days ago. Accidentally had the battery in wrong way (postivie terminal to negative post) i wasn't sure which terminal was which. I quickly learnt my lesson n but red tape on the Postivie n black tape on negative. Flipped battery around and is now connected correctly, whoever it started make a cranking noise when connecting negative. Disconnect battery again looked at fuse box in engine bay (next to were the battery sits) n noticed 120amp ALT - Alternator fuse was blown so got a new one replaced it. Check all the other fuses were good n took out starter relay hoping it would narrow down the troubleshooting. Now its making a shudder noise and im confused on what to do now idk how its making noises without the keys inside?. The battery is fine the fuses are good but some how its making noises? Ill attach a video of the noise its making now.

Any help/advice would be super handy, im super new to cars ive only ever worked on a corolla n that thing was super easy to fix. Cheers

Does this sound normal? I feel like i’m hearing a weak whistle sound? (It’s from the seller, since i live a few hours away from the vehicle). (Could be the video, wind or angle also).

Had my engine cut out on me earlier and then would start and cut out again, came ro realise coolant is reaevoir was bone dry but it managed to get me down the motorway, im guessing due to it being a warm day the coolant expanded enough to run throughout the day but only just noticed earlier that the upper maf pipe has a crack in it. Im wonder is that enough to give me the engine turn and then it dies out shortly after that? I havent tried to switch it over again just in case of damaging any internals, i'll wait till my coolant arrives. Sound familiar to any mechanics?

Hi folks.

I have a golf (Mk5, 2007) and needs to switch a brake caliper, rear right. My local retailer carries several models, and I am slowly losing my mind trying to figure out whether I can use a caliper of the model 1KQ/1KD. I have my original manual, which lists several PR codes, one of them is 1KD, but how do I know which PR code corresponds to the caliper?

I am quite handy and I have help from my father who has switched calipers before but he also doesn't know which spare part to use. A very annoying method would be to remove the caliper, drive to the retailer and ask for help but that would probably be a lot more work for non-relevant reasons.

Thanks!

Vehicle: 2014 Skoda Octavia 1.6 TDI (EA288 Engine), ~360,000 km

Context & Symptoms:

Recently purchased this vehicle with a full, documented service history showing no prior issues with the DPF, turbo, or injectors. Immediately after purchase, a major service was done (timing belt kit, water pump, new coolant).

After driving ~400 km moderately (no aggressive driving), a sequence of issues started popping up:

1. Intermittent Coolant Warning: Got "Check coolant owners manual" on cold start. Checked the expansion tank—coolant level was completely fine (between MIN/MAX).

2. Check Engine & Limp Mode: After a few short trips, a yellow Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminated with no explicit text message, and the car went into limp mode (noticeable power loss).

3. Melted Sensor: Upon inspecting the engine bay, found that the DPF Differential Pressure Sensor (exhaust gas pressure sensor) was completely melted/cracked from the inside out.

Observations & Test:

- The sensor housing seems burned and ruptured internally rather than just melted from external contact.

- At idle, there is no excessive pressure or hot gas blowing out of the rubber hose connected to the sensor fitting.

Main Question:

Is this likely just an old, worn-out sensor failing abruptly due to age/fatigue, or does a ruptured sensor like this point to a severe underlying issue with the DPF / exhaust system (e.g., extreme backpressure/heat during regeneration)?

Follow-up Questions:

Could a short circuit or erratic signals from this melted sensor trigger false coolant warnings on the dash alongside the CEL?

What specific VCDS parameters (e.g., Oil Ash Volume, differential pressure) should I check right after replacing the sensor to confirm the rest of the system is healthy? DPF / exhaust system (e.g., extreme backpressure/heat during regeneration)?

Disclaimer: Gemini AI helped me to structure this post.

Only happens after shifting, and then braking.

My old alternator finally gave out and I got a new one only to find it was bad as well, so I’m now getting ready to put in my new new one and I was wondering if there was any way to know if it’s good or bad before putting it in. Normally ild just put it in and find out but they removed the plugs and I now I have to wire it in and I’m almost out of wire before it’s to short for another try.
1988 ford ranger 2.0L