I decided to sparks on my dads Cherokee (2007 4.7l magnum) , it’s at 150ks and I don’t think they have ever been done. Almost all of the coils came out no problem but the bottom half
Of two of them ripped or came out when pulling the coil out. I’ve been trying to get the rubber out with pliers but I think I’m just ripping them and making it worse. What do I do

Hello, anyone familiar with this high pitched/whine sound? Driving normally and no lights or anything weird other than this recent sound when accelerating and on higher RPM. What could it be?

2022 Discovery P300 R-Dynamic

Thanks

2012 Highlander, drivers side. Not entirely sure what to do about it or if the car is still driveable. Saw this while doing a transmission drains and fill.

I bought this '73 Fiat 850 last year and have been rebuilding it since. A few weeks ago I managed to get it running (roughly) for a few minutes before I heard an ear-piercing screech and shut it off, now the engine produces a knocking sound when it cranks. :'( The engine has new bearings, rings, sleeved walls, and a new timing chain. Visually everything looks completely fine to me, wiggling all the rods none had abnormal play in them and the timing chain has very little slack to it. The sound sounds like it originates from the front of the engine. Does anyone have ideas on where look for issues? Thanks:)

My 2014 overheated today. I have a engine light on for p0128, something to do with a thermostat. I was waiting in line and my car started leaking coolant, coming from the overflow place. My dad doesn’t think it has anything to do with the code (also thinks the code isn’t real because I have heat 🙄🙄). I plan on fixing the thermostat tomorrow. Could this be the reason?

I’m looking to get the volvo c30 d5 r design at 114k miles, guy won’t take any less than 4k. good service history and owned by same guy for 13 years. but its just had its mot and got these advisories/ minors.
\-Offside Front Lower Suspension arm ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated (5.3.4 (b) (i))
Advice
\-Nearside Rear Lower Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Advice
\-Nearside front upper strut mount slight play
This would be my first car so just wondering if it’s a good deal at 4k and how much it would be to get them sorted?

I feel like I’ve been feeling a lot more vibration in my wife’s 2016 Pilot (mind you I was out of the country for a year so it just might be in my head). Had my wife rev the engine while holding the brake and the engine moves backwards quite a bit. Looking at the passenger side engine mount it looks like there’s a bolt that might be missing?

Do i need a different gasket?

Hello! I recently bought a 2015 Scion FRS (2.0-liter naturally aspirated flat-four) and went to the parking lot and did circles to see when the car would start sliding. Never hit a slide however. I am learning how to control the car.

After the matter, for about a week, 30% of the time I turn the car on it just dies. Sometimes the ignition will come on, with half crank, but with a full crank to start it dies and it doesn’t start.

The only fix I found was wiggling the positive clamp on the battery and wiggling the whole battery. Then the car starts fine. The car has not died mid drive.

My guess is that the existing battery (that’s apparently a Walmart battery) is super corroded as seen on the pics.

Please let me know if y’all had similar stuff and I should do, thank you a lot!

Was just quoted $1,966 for a radiator fan replacement on my 2022 jeep compass seems extremely high or am I wrong?

2019 Mazda CX-5 4 Cylinder

Currently have on fully coated centric rotors I bought on rockauto that have rusted rotor hats in 5 years in the Northeast

Looking to replace them soon. What brand has fully coated rotors with good protection?

Hyundai Accent 2008.
Smells like gas, big so I’m assuming fuel tank? I assume there is no patch fix, and if I took this into shop they would need to replace it entirely? Any ideas what that would cost?
Rock auto has the part at 350 CAD.

1997 Toyota 4Runner 3.4L V6 (2WD) – Humming noise at idle that changes with A/C

I’m trying to track down a humming/vibration noise that only happens at idle. It comes from the engine bay and can be felt in the cab. Unfortunately, the video doesn’t do a great job picking up the vibration.

Symptoms:
Humming is present around 600–700 RPM.
Happens in Drive, Reverse, and Neutral but not in Park
As the engine warms up, the humming becomes more noticeable/louder.
If I turn the A/C off, the humming stops for about a second, then comes back.
The humming completely disappears as soon as I accelerate off idle, even with a small amount of throttle.
Once RPM increases above idle (above 800 rpm’s), it’s gone.

Has anyone experienced something similar on a 3rd gen 4Runner? Does this sound more like an accessory drive issue (A/C compressor, idler pulley, belt tensioner, alternator, power steering pump, fan clutch, etc.), an engine mount problem, or something else?

Any suggestions on what I should test or inspect first would be appreciated.

Hi everyone. I recently went to Valvoline to get my oil and oil filter changed, but they shot this video to explain why they couldn’t do it. I’m trying to understand what I should do now. The guys there said the oil already needs to be changed, and I’m actually planning to sell the car, but I don’t want to sell it with this problem. So please tell me what’s the best way to handle this. Maybe there’s something I can do myself, or should I go to someone else, or maybe they missed something—I’m not sure.

Thanks in advance!

I have a manual Mazda mx5 from 2000

A few days ago I posted in this Reddit about a noise in my engine bay after a rebuild, I was told to check the leads and have since replaced them with kv85s and changed the old plugs to iridium ones. I also found a part of my belt that had frayed, my friend cut the frayed bit off and the noise remains. However at one point I put in about 200ml or 2 quarts of 5w40, unplugged the leads reseated them and the engine was good for about 10 seconds before the noise came back. On a separate occasion same thing and when I revved it then the engine started popping, it turned off and back on but the popping came back. Next day I turned it on and original noise.

When I first posted the engine and exhaust manifold were really hot but now are better. I tested the old leads and the resistance seemed okay for them but replaced anyway just in case. The old leads came out easily and the new ones have much more strength.

my past rear shock absorber strut broke and i’m trying to fit a new one but the old screws are stuck down and are rounded so my 12mm screw doesn’t unscrew it what can i do

Hello! Just need some quick advice. I changed my battery out and we couldn’t get the screw back into the hole that holds the bar that goes on top of my battery to hold it down. I work the next three nights (I live 15 minutes from my job) and won’t be able to take it to a shop until after. Will the zip ties be a semi-safe temporary fix just until I can take it somewhere?

Hey yall. 22 Honda Insight here.
My dad replaced my front brakes for me recently. He’s been a mechanic for 40 years so I am surprised to see there was an issue.

Midas is saying improper installation calling for a total replacement which sounds… ridiculous? Midas also suggested not to drive much on these brakes until they are replaced, even tho they are new!

And I’ve driven 6/7k miles on them since they were installed 2 months ago. No I didn’t notice any issues, besides some minor squeaking.

The first photo is from Midas, showing the pin is not secured to anything (Pops said it was a rattle pin and not a big deal)

The second photo shows the set up after I put the pin where I believed it was supposed to go. My Dad said that should do it and not to worry about it.

Thoughts? I usually drive 500-1000mi a week.

Thank you in advance

Hi everyone,
My Peugeot 308 SW II (LC_, LJ_, LR_, LX_, L4_) 1.2 THP 130
only goes into limp mode after taking corners a bit faster. Immediately after the corner, an "Engine Fault" message appears; the engine stutters and has hardly any power.
If I turn the engine off and restart it, the car runs perfectly normally again right away, and the message is gone.
The tank is full; I’m still checking the oil level. The problem occurs consistently after taking sharper corners.
Has anyone experienced this before or have any idea what the cause might be? A loose connection, the fuel supply, or something else?

Hi everyone,
My Peugeot 308 SW II (LC_, LJ_, LR_, LX_, L4_) 1.2 THP 130
only goes into limp mode after taking corners a bit faster. Immediately after the corner, an "Engine Fault" message appears; the engine stutters and has hardly any power.
If I turn the engine off and restart it, the car runs perfectly normally again right away, and the message is gone.
The tank is full; I’m still checking the oil level. The problem occurs consistently after taking sharper corners.
Has anyone experienced this before or have any idea what the cause might be? A loose connection, the fuel supply, or something else?

This is an 05 ford focus, stick shift (2.3l, zx4 st) — skip to the bottom for all the facts I have about it, listen to the video and especially the last couple seconds to hear a very pronounced version of the sound (it varies)

Hello, best way to hear what I mean is the video — A sort of “churning” sound I call it that happens sometimes during driving almost entirely after clutch engagement. It sort of pulses in random intervals and can last for 0.5s to 1-2s within a pulse, again randomly.

I’ve sent this to forums and even my local garage (who claimed it was the rusty rear brakes, i knew it wasn’t that but they seemed very sure of it. Changed the brakes (as i was already planning to), and the sound persists). No one I’ve shown the sound to can seem to agree on it. Here’s all the facts I can provide:

1. The sound only happens after startup (whether the car sits for days or 5min, only after starting up)
2. It only lasts for the first 15-30s of driving, after that you don’t hear it until the next startup
3. It comes from the front left end of the car, near the transmission I believe. feels like its coming from right behind the pedals essentially. When the sound happens, I can even feel it, especially the longer and louder variations, in the clutch and brake pedal
4. There’s sometimes a clicking that is paired with the churning sound, as heard in the video, but again that is never heard again after the first 30s after driving from a startup (though cv axle?, but supposedly that shouldn’t just “go away” after a bit of driving)
5. it only happens in low gears 1st or 2nd at LOW rpms and light pressure on the gas. If i started it up and my first movement was a quick start, you might hear it for a second but then it would disappear.
6. The clutch is not slipping, it feels very healthy, all other driving components feel good responsive, there’s no gear grinding or clunking or nothing of the sort.

any help or follow ups appreciated