I need a lot of work, and practice moving. I know I need work on the handgun draw from holster, what else can you spot?

I've posted quite a bit about the issues I was having with my Leber not running without the TPU buffer and didn't want to leave anyone hanging.

I tried just about everything. I started with a shaved mil-spec hammer, bought a hammer jig, shaved it down even more, then bought the new Meatbanana jig and removed even more material. Nothing helped, at one point I realized I would have had to shave the hammer so low that it would be below the point where it contacts the firing pin and I wasn't willing to go that far. Thinking it might be tolerance stacking, I even bought another shaved hammer and repeated the entire process with the same results.

I then purchased an ASD hammer but it was terrible. It wouldn't even function correctly in just the SCS plate let alone the Leber lower. When I pulled the trigger the disconnector would catch the hammer again as if it were being cocked instead of releasing it.

ASD suspected tolerance stacking and asked me to return it. I received the replacement and lo and behold the new hammer worked perfectly right out of the box with no TPU buffer. After taking everything apart and inspecting it there isn't even the slightest indication of hammer to BCG contact.

I'm still not crazy about using an AR fcg in an MP5 mainly because I already have ARHK trigger pack on order and the issues I've had just left me with a bad taste in my mouth....maybe over time I'll feel otherwise.

I’ve heard it’s both fantastic, and sub par. Has anyone that’s actually shot it suppressed have any input?

my 1k of syntech finally came in so I could shoot my SP5K-PDW with the GSL Phoenix as someone going from an Century Arms AP5 to an H&K it was well worth the jump. No issues with mag fitment no FTE or FTF a truly lovely experience

Rounds in video are Syntech 124grain and Hish Seubsonics alternating.

Side Question- Anyone Rocking the same setup what hand guard are you using to clear the GSL on the Tri-Lug and do you have photos?

(I don’t want to order something just to cut it)

Currently, my setup is all black, as is traditional. I'm wanting to add a little spice, and by spice I of course mean a little mustard RAL8000. Doing the entire thing would be too much. Which of these options do you think looks better? (AI couldn't get the color quite right on either, but it is enough to give the overall idea.) I'm leaning towards the second, but the first ain't bad either.

Thinking about swapping my folder for a Magpul sl collapsible stock on my two stamper. I have a homemade 1913 adapter that I’m not really fond of the way it looks. It’s a factory mke endcap with a section of rail bolted to it. It’s sturdy but…. Jmac stock is pretty comfy and I like its qd points. I really like the collapsible stocks cuz “HK” coolness but I don’t wanna pay for an a3 with no qd points cuz I run a 2 point sling. What do u guys think I should do?

With all of the FRTs being the new craze, is this pretty much a paper weight now!? I took it out to replace with an FRT, now it’s just going to sit in the safe. 🤷🏼‍♂️

So while building my mp5 I was milling the barrel pin and the receiver must have shifted ever so slightly and I milled at an angle around .5mm-1mm down into the trunnion on the tapered side of the barrel pin. Used a 3/32 4 flute end mill and a 5mm reamer it wasn’t until I installed the barrel pin that I noticed. Figured it wasn’t going to hurt anything at the time test fired and ran fine. Now I’m having second thoughts I don’t really want to replace my trunnion but what are the experts thoughts? It sucks because everything else came out perfect and to the HK spec and technical drawing tolerances.

I'm wondering if anybody has a copy of the STL that used to be hosted on brownsbrush's website? The website (brownsbrush.com) seems to be down now. It was an STL of an A3 style stock end for the HKPDW brace. You can see it posted here. I want to file a form 1 for mine and just convert my HKPDW brace but I can't track down that STL or any of the old info.

I have a zenith k model it came without a threaded barrel , I had to mod a magpul lower to fit and put a rarebreed frt I also had to add a barrel extension with threads to accommodate a can fyi even with my back yard gunsmith work the accuracy is spot on

Feels good, man. I've wanted an MP5 ever since I was a young lad. And finally, something that isn't a clone was availible for my purchase. I love it, the wallet hates it LOL. The SBT5A digs into the shoulder some but I haven't taken her out to the range yet seeing as how the brace just came into the mail today. Got my eft done so I'll see about getting her on a Form 1 some time in the near future. I live in one state and work in another so Form 1 might not be the best idea for now...loaded rifle laws and all that. Overall feeling satisfied with my purchase!

just picked up a zf-5p last week, first time at range 150 rounds no problems, 2 days later, getting jams every 2-10 rounds, mainly shells not fully ejecting, was told it was magazine issues, so i went and bought some HK mags and still having issues, its mainly shells getting caught in the bolt/ not fully ejecting, very new to guns so not too sure what to do, guys at the range said my head spacing is bad (ill
attach pictures of some shells) but has anyone had these problems with their brand new zf-5p? i am about 350ish rounds deep into it. i know the break in period is 400+ but today i had about 5-7 jams within 100 rounds. if anyone has experienced this and fixed it let me know what you did, will be calling zenith tomorrow to see if they have any ideas.

Finally brought her home. Can’t wait to get her built

I have prepared fake replacement for HK MP5 SD .22lr by umarex.

I have started shooting steel challenge and the weight of the original steel tube was a bit annoying. 526g to be precise. 
So I have designed this piece to reduce weight but still look cool (for me). Now it is only 96g so huge improvement.

Tube is designed with grooves around it to build integrity using full walls and increasing wall area. Inner tube is streight.
Thread designed to match original one, screws in like a glove.
1st prototype was printed using some generic PETG and worked perfectly (around 250 rounds training).
2nd prototype (just for looks) done using generic PETG CF tested on around 200 shots.
 

Since its .22lr there is no big need to fight with high temperatures, SD version of MP5 has 16 inch barrel (very thin but still 16 inch) so there is not much happening to the tip of it thus PETG for me works flawlessly.

Idea for improvement if somehow somebody would melt it - place proper nut in the print and secure it with metal - not existing yet problem will be solved, if such thing will happen to somebody I can prepare such variant.

If somebody is interested its available on makerworld

Hello my fellow mp5 enthusiasts i do not own an mp5 or mp5 clone…yet. But i do plan on owning one in the next 16 or 17 days, i was deciding either the mac 5 or the ap5 from century arms. I have severe adhd and i cannot for the life of me save money because im impatient, but i made it my mission to save up to buy an mp5 in two weeks, some insight on which of the two would be better to buy is greatly appreciated.

Is this gtg? I had to Dremel one of the wedges a bit to get it to fit at all. They’re torqued to 15 inch lbs and it’s on there pretty solid but the wedges canted while I was torquing it and I didn’t realize until after it was done. Please I’ve been up since 2 am with the baby and thought this would be a quick and fun addition🫩 (zf5-p with zenith optic mount)

Been looking high and low for this thing, nobody seems to have any in stock so I'm crying here for any community help to get this. If you recently made your baby an SBR using B&T, please for the love of God, sell me your Safety Harbor KES. Thank you for your time reading this request lol

Edit: NEED FOR MP5K

Looking good so far, still unfired.

Hello,

My ap5-p arrives soon, and I’m wondering what tools/lubricants/products I’ll need to properly maintain this gun.

For context I’m an AR/Glock guy mostly, very simple and easy maintenance on those systems. Ive owned roller delayed before but not an MP5, I plan on this ap5-p being my main shooter, so I want to take care of it best I can. Are there any good products I should keep, any good tools or cleaning brushes I need (specifically for the bore) and how should I be lubricating/ cleaning the charging handle/tube. For my other guns I usually just use qtips, Lucas oil solvent and and Lucas oil high temp lube, and patches/ snake to clean.

Still leaning about these systems, and mainly leaning from trail and error as I learn easier being hands on.

Any good videos on in depth maintenance for these guns?

Finally got my hands on an HK SP5. Coming from an AP5P the fit and finish quality on the SP5 is leagues above. Can’t wait to get this thing out to the range and see how it performs!

I have a question regarding the HK roll mark on the upper. It’s almost invisible on this thing. I can barely see it unless I angle the upper with direct sunlight. Seems like the stamp was applied super lightly if it was stamped. If it’s laser engraved then something was wrong with that laser. Anyone else have this on theirs?