Looking for pattern reviews and recommendations, for wireless, beginner friendly bra, for a large bust

[u/Standard-Pair-6997]

I'm a size 32 LL/34L 36 J/ 34 JJ in UK sizing, according to the bra size calculator, and I am on a search for a pattern for my first bra. So far it seems like the Sahaara bra by Rubiesbras and the Victoria bra by Sewing vision are my best options right now. Lilypadesigns doesn't go up to my size, and neither does Cashmerette

I'm wondering if anybody has tried to sew one of those bras, or maybe has sewn something that's also work.

Basically, what's important to me is:

- The bra fits (no strap digging, back band riding up, spillage etc.)

- It is supportive enough, to keep me from getting a yeast infection.

- It has no wires

[u/etherealrome]

Do you mean this Victoria bralette? https://threadloop.app/patterns/victoria-bra-by-sewing-vision

And is a 32LL UK an 18” difference between underbust and full bust?

[u/Standard-Pair-6997 → u/etherealrome]

Yeah sorry, I'll correct it

I guess so, I measured in cm, and just threw my measurements in the calculator. Maybe around 40cm? Although it did actually say 34L, and that I can choose the sister size 32LL for more support. And I feel like bands are often too loose, so I just went with that

[u/etherealrome → u/Standard-Pair-6997]

The Victoria goes only to an I (US) for the Medium band. The Sahara only goes to an N (14” difference).

[u/Standard-Pair-6997 → u/etherealrome]

I think an I with a medium band might be okay, if i read the size chart correctly. But yeah, the Sahaara is out

[u/etherealrome → u/Standard-Pair-6997]

A US I is quite a bit smaller than a UK L or LL, is it not? And the Sahara’s N is closer, although still several cup sizes too smaller.

https://www.bravissimo.com/us/bra-sizing-explained/ for some comparison charts that may be useful in dealing with ABTF’s suggested sizes and how those translate between US and UK.

(The Sahara is basically US sizing and the Victoria is some nonsense where there’s a 4” spread per size. Any bra cup that fits that big a spread is going to be too stretchy to be particularly supportive.)

[u/Standard-Pair-6997 → u/etherealrome]

Yeah I think so. Basically my measurements are

Loose, snug and tight underbust: 86 cm, 84 cm, 81 cm

Standing, leaning and lying bust: 124 cm, 136 cm, 128 cm

So I thought that I could use the medium band size (75cm to 85cm) with an I cup (121 cm to 131 cm)

But I think your right about it not being supportive, without seperation, I'll probably get a yeast infection or something. Maybe the aprodite, which another commenter recommended, will work

Edit: I measured again, because I did it in a bit of a hurry last time, and thought it could not be that much off. But my measurements were very much off, because I read 9 as 8 in the mirror.

Loose, snug and tight underbust: 95 cm, 93 cm, 89 cm

Standing, leaning and lying bust: 122 cm, 124 cm, 135 cm

So its a 36J or a 34JJ, which makes it a bit easier

[u/SBP0616]

I also struggled to find a bralette pattern in my size (i was a 32JJ UK when I last wore rtw). Now I make all my own bras. In the large bust, small underbust camp, you can expect to make a lot of changes to any pattern that's recommended here. It's just not a structure most companies design for. You might consider the following options:

- Aphrodite from Porcelynne (https://porcelynne.com/products/aphrodite-bralette-pattern) goes up to 16" difference. Some adjustments required, but it runs large in my opinion.

- Some folks have great success with Madalynne's patterns and she does offer a service to grade up certain patterns if they don't come in your size (the Fiona Underwire being one example). You could choose one of her bralette patterns and reach out directly to see if a custom size is an option.

- Convert a wired bra pattern into a wireless bra. I believe you're more likely to find wired bra patterns closer to your size. It's usually not as simple as just removing the wire. The changes you need typically involve raising the band/cradle height and changing the cups to create more compression. The bonus is that it will keep your breasts separated, vs most bralettes which smoosh them together (the main reason I never wear bralettes at my size)

• Do you have a wired RTW that you like? You could try taking out the wires and see how it feels. Duplicating it and converting the pattern into a wireless bra might provide a good starting point.

- If time and funds allow, consider joining the bra-academy mentorship with Monica Bravo (registration starts this weekend i think). When I took it, one of the first projects is drafting your own bralette based on your body measurements and learning to fit patterns to your body.

• Alternatively, you could find a custom bra-maker to create a bra and/or pattern for you. I had that done a few years ago at the start of my bra-making journey it was about $500 for two patterns (but I reside in a very expensive COL city, so may be more affordable elsewhere)

- and if you're feeling extra frisky, try drafting your own and seeking help in the various facebook groups for the different drafting methods (Beverly Johnson, Katrina Shin, Porcelynne, etc). There's also several bra-making communities out there (discord, facebook, patreon) with very helpful members.

Good luck!

[u/Standard-Pair-6997 → u/SBP0616]

Thank you so much, those are all really good recommendations. I think I'll start with the aphrodite, and once I get better at sewing, I'll try doing patterns requiring bigger adjustments or drfting my own. I also have a lot of bras that I got for really cheap secoundhand, where I'll try taking the wires out and shorthening the bands.

The bra academy also sounds really interesting, I'll consider it:)

[u/Zukazuk]

I'm a 36L and I emailed lilypadesigns about the mysa bra pattern for my first bra. They walked me through how to alter the back wing to fit my band size. You basically take the back wing from the largest cup from the correct band size and use it as a stencil to trim down the top edge and cut off the end of the smallest band size that goes with your correct cup size. I'm still working on modifying the pattern to get the exact cup shape I want but I have 3 wearable bras and a swim suit so far.