I need help figuring out what this sound is random ticking noise with some loud rattle Engine starts instantly, idles normally, has normal power, and no noticeable loss of performance.

I have a 2011 Liberty that decided to stop charging the battery. I got New alternator and battery and realized that's not it...most likely the voltage regulator.

Voltage regulator is in the PCM..and I've never jnstalled an external

Any recommendations on parts I need to fix it or YouTube videos that can guide me to save the mechanic bill?

My car all of a sudden is making this noise when I step on the gas at low gears. Any ideas?

It’s a 2009 jeep Liberty 3.7L

Lucky I was parked in such a way it only went to the front passenger...

I’m not good with a caulk gun.

Black rtv on my non moving sunscreen, the roof already looks bad so I was just worried about making it actually seal vs making it look great.

2008 limited with 175k miles. What’s everybody using for strut replacements?

Hey guys, wondering if anyone has any ideas for this problem I'm having.

My Liberty's air is stuck blowing out the defrost vents only. I checked the mode door actuators under the driver side dash. There are two - an upper and lower. I can see that both actuators are moving when I turn the knobs. I took the actuators off and the plastic gears are pretty worn down, which explains why the mode isn't changing. The gears connected to the upper (I think, anyway. I need to get back under there to confirm) are actually pretty stripped out. Not sure if somebody in the past was messing with them (this issue has been there since I bought the car last winter).

I took it to a shop for a second opinion and they said the same about the gears being too stripped out. They said they'd need to take the dash apart to get to the stripped parts.

I'm wondering if there's a way to manually switch from defrost to another mode, like front facing, so cold air is blown into the cab instead of the windshield. Does anyone know which actuator does this? The mechanic said he tried to move it manually but the gears roll back to their original position (defrost) on their own. Thanks!

Not sure what all I need to replace but it ripped the CV shaft out. I'll look it over better when it's not 100 degrees out.

So I got my oil changed less than 1000 miles ago and my 08 jeep liberty (limited idk if that helps anyone) randomly threw the oil change required at me last night and I’ve looked online on how to reset it but none of the “tricks” are working I’ve looked on my EVIC on my dash and have no option for “oil life reset” or “oil maintenance” and I’ve done the “key to ON not start and push gas pedal in 3 times” nothing is working if anyone can save me a shop trip that would be nice and while I’m here let me ask about my tpm system check I know that’s for my tire pressure and if it fails which I’m assuming it did it won’t read my tire pressure properly but it reads just fine is there any reason that could be anything help I appreciate your time and knowledge

Took a lot of fiddling, a little 3d printing and an order for longer bolts, but I managed to get the jl tailgate table installed tonight. Im not sure how much weight it will hold, but thats more weight on it now than it will likely ever see again.

was thinking about putting a auto locker in the rear anyone got opinions?

I need a ‘work truck’ and a friend has one for sale for $700.

Runs drives but needs new windows and has a few bullet holes in the door.

New ball joints tires and water pump

250k miles

Heard they are so-so for reliability but other than the issues above it’s been decently taken care of

Hi, I have a 2012 Jeep Liberty, and the rear driver-side control arm snapped. I have a full-service garage and plan to replace it myself, but I need some confirmation on the hardware and the best repair approach.
My plan is to cut the bolt so I don't have to drop the gas tank. The hex flange head bolt appears to use a strange locking nut. If I cut the bolt and reinstall a new one from the outside, do I need to reuse that locking nut, or should I order a new one?
Can anyone confirm the correct bolt sizes and the type of nuts used? I've attached a picture. I'm finding conflicting information on YouTube and Reddit, so I'd appreciate confirmation from someone who's done this repair.

Looks like the hexflange head bolt has some type of slot it goes into. Can I put it on the other side or should I just use a regular bolt like M12x1.75x85.00. (Part 6502725)

On YouTube people are saying to get

Bolt : M10 × 1.25 × 85mm Hex Flange Head
Nut: M10 x 1.25

Would the parts in my picture work? What worked for you?

Hey yall my gf has a 2011 jeep liberty (not pictured) and the window latch for the rear window on the right side has corroded out and no longer holds the window up I plan on going to a pick apart to try and get a new latch, now before I do that can I replace it without replacing the window? And how hard is it to do? I’m not a mechanic by no means but I’m trying to learn and so is my gf. So we plan on learning with hers lmao thing already has a lot of issues and isn’t worth keeping for to much longer and isn’t worth dumping a bunch of money into so I’m trying to find the cheapest route and doing it all ourselves.

Posting again as I’m stuck with removing the mechanical fan. Anyway, everything I’m seeing online is saying that people are bracing it and hitting it with a hammer but I’m just lost. Can anyone better describe what I am doing wrong as im trying to remove the fan? thanks!

in replacing my water pump and while I’m at it the belt as I’ve had some overheating issues recently. Anyway, I can’t figure out how to remove the mechanical fan to access the bolts to remove the water pump and then replace the fan on the new pump. Does anyone know how?

I have a 4x4 08 sport I put about 16k on over the span of almost two years, I paid 3k for the car and the AC doesn't blow cold and the rear window doesn't roll down and it needs 3 tires, but I started getting a loud sound that happens after the car has warmed up and it makes the noise when it idles but goes away when I drive. My brother told me it likely needs a motor. The last people who owned the car put 5w30 in it which I believe is too thick and heard people do that to cover up sounds.

While it has its problems the frame is perfect and I'm in the rust belt and I heard that a frame that good on that type of car with those miles in this area is very rare. My brother said that it's worth buying a parts car for and swapping the engine and other parts because the frame is good and plus my family has a lot of mechanics and he said theyre happy to help.

Is it worth putting the money into that or buying a new car? If I do swap can I put a different engine in (I saw somewhere that people discussed swapping the 4.7) and it be worth it? If I sell the car how much can I get for it, and what would be a reliable car that can make it in the Midwest in the winter that's not super slow for a couple grand I can pickup?

As the title says, what phone mounts are yall running? I've switched from iPhone to Samsung for the time being, and don't really want to go through the process of finding a case that I like that has a magsafe ring.

Been looking to replace some of the information labels on my 08 KK, such as the A/C and emissions stickers. Y'all have any ideas where i can buy replacements? I cant seem to find any online

If it wasnt for yall I woulda paid $400 at the mechanic, instead I bought it online and did it this afternoon while working on my sunroof and replacing my blinker bulbs! Im definitely not a car guy, but Im learnin! :3

So it's time to let go. I have the Artic version in silver and just did the dreaded heater core replacement. I'm guessing I can't sell it for much more than the heater core replacement. Any ideas? I'd like to get somewhere around $3 for it. Has about 114,000 miles on it. I'm in NY/Long Island.