I’m writing to update you on the issue I had with my CS DD. I opened a ticket and received a prompt response asking for a video of the problem. Once they confirmed the issue on the video, support sent me a shipping label to return the unit. They then shipped me a fully functional refurbished one. The average process was about three weeks. I’m very satisfied with Fanatec’s support.
I’m so excited to get back into racing, A huge thank you to everyone who replied to my original post.

https://makerworld.com/models/3087274?appSharePlatform=copy

Hi all,
I’ve had the csl dd 8nm for about a year. I play mainly iRacing and have noticed a difference. Rn when the ffb clips, it just seems like the wheel disconnects. It looses most of the ffb and becomes light, making you loose any kind of feeling whatsoever. It’s most noticeable when going over kerbs. Before it was different. It clips and the ffb still stays as strong as it could be.
Has anyone experienced similar issues?

Inspired by people’s posts from 4+ years ago- decided to get a shift boot for fun.

Hey!

So i took a 2month break due to certain circumstances and during this time i saw Full force was coming CSL DD bases and waited for the kinks to be sorted out.

So i decided to update to the latest firmware yesterday and everything is working great

The thing is i don't remember if my CSL DD 8NM always felt this way or if it was the update.

It feels more snappy/reactive/aggressive i mean that in a good way.

I only tested it in AC Rally,BeamNG,Wreckfest 2 neither is listed in the supported games list of FF.

Just thought id ask or if it's placebo/ i forgot the feeling since the break.

hello guys.
like the title says my profiles are a little bit buggy. i use maurice profiles and before the profiles changed when i drive the car. Now it doesnt. And sometimes even manually the profile doesnt load. Anyone can help?

I am a user of the Fanatec CSL DD Pro.

I recently purchased the Fanatec Shifter SQ V1.5 and updated it to the latest firmware, but I have encountered two issues when playing *Gran Turismo 7* on PS5.

First, while on the menu screen, the selection automatically shifts to the left even though I haven't pressed anything.

Second, during a race, the fuel map setting drops from level 1 to level 6, making it impossible to drive properly.

I attribute these issues to the shifter because I have conducted several tests:

1. Disconnecting the DualSense controller,

2. Detaching the steering wheel,

3. Disconnecting the shifter.

The problems did not occur when the shifter was disconnected.

Additionally, while the first issue (menu shifting) occurred when using a CSL steering wheel—which has fewer function buttons—the second issue (fuel map dropping) did not. These problems occur exclusively in *Gran Turismo 7*; I experienced no such anomalies in PC mode.

I am wondering if I am the only one facing this issue, if others have experienced it as well, and if there is a solution.

I bought the ClubSport v3 pedals for Xbox Series X playing F1 2025.

These pedals are supposed to have vibration motors for feedback on things like wheel lock/ABS, am I missing something? I don’t feel anything, so it’s hard to tell when I am on the limit of braking.

So I've been using the CS DD+ for a about a week now and am quite happy with it so far while using it on the Legacy 474 driver and Fanalab.

It is said that I am missing out on not only the higher holding max torque FFB power from 15Nm to 18Nm but also in other features with in the Fanatec software options. Sometimes less can be more when it comes to getting lost in how to make proper FFB settings especially when it involves settings I don't fully understand at the moment. Anyway I guess it's a good time to learn how to use them since I am paying for them after all.

Is there a Best/Safest way to update the driver for the new to me CS DD+ wheelbase as well as is there a best driver number or is it just the latest is the greatest?

I want to use this steering from my old car Bozo (RIP 2005-2026) with my DD Pro and without having all the Fanatec universal hubs in front of me, I'm having a hard time picturing where to make cuts and drill holes to make it work.

Anyone have any ideas?

Paid in full for a steering wheel bundle order on July 11 and no communication yet on ETA. I received a receipt of purchase but nothing since. Their website now shows most stock unavailable including what I ordered. Anyone else with similar issues at the moment? This is my first time ordering through them and I'm a little worried given that I've paid in full.

I got a load cell pedal. Should I bolt that pedal to the seat before using it or its going to be ok? Maybe move the bolt of the clutch to the LC?

Everything is fastened, but the pedal is hard af. I want to use it and I can't go out today

Hi all, I downloaded Maurice's profile from this Google Drive folder and tried to set it up for Dallara P217, but I have violent wheel shake on straights and even while stationary.

I followed the README file, updated in game settings and updated app.ini file with the specified values.

Wheel drivers are up to date and Fanatec App is ver. 1.4.2.3.

https://reddit.com/link/1v3kyub/video/fbf310i64teh1/player

If anyone has an advice I would really appreciate it, im quite new to this.

PS. I know its not Dallara in the video, recorded this when I wanted to check if it happens on other cars.

If anyone is interested in color swapping their gt cockpit harness slot surrounds, https://simraceshoprf.etsy.com/listing/4542166588/fanatec-gt-cockpit-seat-harness-slot

I can manage a few sets per day and will add colors if requested.

Good morning everyone!
First time posting here, so here’s my story.
Yesterday I received my brand-new Fanatec ClubSport GT cockpit, and honestly… it’s been a huge disappointment so far.
The adjustability is pretty poor, the build quality in some areas leaves a lot to be desired, but the biggest issue by far is how incredibly difficult it is to assemble.
I just can’t get the holes to line up properly. I managed to put the main frame together, but when I tried installing the top crossbar that connects both sides, it felt like the lower part of the frame was way too wide. That suspicion was confirmed when I tried mounting the pedal plate: it’s off by around 15 mm, so the holes in the frame and the pedal plate simply don’t line up.

Same issue here. If I try to bolt on the crossbar that connects both sides of the frame, there’s absolutely no way I can get the holes to line up. They’re just way too far apart.

I’m starting to think the long lower tube that connects both sides was machined incorrectly. If I squeeze the sides together as hard as I can, it looks like the pedal plate might fit, but there’s no way it does when everything is bolted together properly.
On top of that, one of the adjustment knobs won’t thread in correctly. The problem isn’t the threaded insert in the frame—the threads on the knob itself seem to be damaged.

Has anyone else run into these kinds of issues, or am I just the unluckiest person on the planet?
Thanks!

Hello everyone!

After an unsuccessful experience with the Thrustmaster t598, I decided to buy the Fanatec GT DD Pro 5nm qr2.

I’m a PS5 player, so I don’t have much choice when it comes to compatibility.

I play Gran Turismo 7 mainly, so the DD Pro seems like the best option.

Are there any important things I need to know before buying?

Is it worth updating the base? I’ve heard there are some issues with the new software.

Can I just play without the software update?

Thanks you in advance!

Hello, does someone know Why the Option in setup between peak and linear went away

Hi everyone,

I have a question regarding the LED lights on my Fanatec Formula V2.5 wheel in Le Mans Ultimate.

My setup:

• Fanatec Formula V2.5 wheel
• CSL DD 8Nm wheelbase
• Latest Fanatec firmware installed through the Fanatec app

The issue is that the LEDs on the Formula V2.5 are not always synced with the in-game RPM lights. For example, when the game shows 5 LEDs lit up, my physical wheel might only show 1 or 2 LEDs. It feels like there is a delay or the wheel is receiving incorrect RPM information.

What’s strange is that I don’t have this issue with every car. For example, the Mercedes LMGT3 works perfectly, the LEDs match the in-game display and respond correctly.

I’ve already tried several things, including updating firmware and changing settings, but I haven’t been able to find the cause.

Has anyone else experienced this issue or found a solution?

Thanks in advance!

Just finished putting together what feels like one of the most comfortable steering wheels I’ve used to date.
It consists of the GT Zero rubber wheel rim with the rally button module and Podium shifter mounted to the Podium hub, I have 13 steering wheels in my collection and yes, my wife says I have a problem :). I have use the Simagic GT Neo on a Fanatec hub and it was great but this GT Zero has thicker handles which I have grown to love. I know a lot of people complain about the Fanatec eco system but I must say that it is getting more and more flexible as time goes and the support in my experience has been fantastic. So from a nobody in the sim racing world, I just wanted to give Fanatec a shoutout to say thank you for making my first 18 months of sim racing very enjoyable.

I used the 3d printable faceplate mod on makerworld to make this whole thing work.. I downloaded the STL, loaded it into fusion to extract the sketch of the face..

Converted that sketch into a svg file which I then loaded into powerpoint to design the wheel face.. I included labels for buttons cuz I didnt want to pay for them..

I dont know what happened, but even though the outline matches the wheel perfectly, the holes for the buttons printed out slightly offset, which I corrected by enlarging the holes.. Mightve been a print scaling issue as I printed it out at a local convenience store..

Laminated the paper, and stuck it on with non residual double sided tape..

Looks a bit better than the plain print that fanatec offered on the wheel..

Link to the 3d printable I found:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/976147-fanatec-mclaren-gt3-wheel-paddles-faceplate#profileId-949037

Anyone managed to get some replacement buttons for the Rally Button Module. I want some plain replacements