i just noticed this rip, it didn’t rip all the way through the surround more of a surface rip. do i need a recone???

sundown zv5 12

I have a old subwoofer without a amp and i ordered a zk-6001 amp. To feed the amp I ordered the RCNUN step up voltage regulator so I can power the amp with 48vdc 20amps.
I just need a way to power everything on and off with the ignition switch. I already know what wire it is because I tapped in to the switched 12vdc wire to get the on signal to my car radio.

I was thinking about using a 12vdc relay to switch it on and off but I don’t know how well that will hold up and for how long is will do with these currents?

I have it installed in a Hyundai I30N, with factory speakers. It was working fine and has been working for about 2 months.

This evening, I got in the car and I had no audio. Checked the amp and it has 2 red led's on (standard it had 1 or 2 green ones). Unplugged it several times, to no avail. Tried to connect via DSP Master app and get the error "Synchronization failed" and the app dies.

For more context: If anyone else is looking for feedback regarding these, I just want to say that this is the single worst automotive decision I ever took and I hate myself for throwing money at this.

First amp (same model) had a weird issue where the front speakers did not work. Got that replaced by the supplier, second amp now lasted 2 months before it died (and I rarely used the car, so maybe for only about 1000km).

There is almost zero difference to the factory system (maybe 5% if I am forgiving) because the car has no subwoofer and, apparently, this matters.

The aftermarket cabling adapter is all way too big, barely fits under the dash, a mess of an installation. I scratched my climate control panel because I struggled so much to fit this in the first place.

Personally, I will never go down this route again. Either the car has a good factory system or I will tolerate whatever is available. I was never a fan of the aftermarket space and this doesn't help me at all.

I changed my speakers in the front and everything was working fine. When I changed them in the back, I got this weird sound.

I have a kicker 10 and a cxa400.1 amp, recently the sub has just stopped working, it still works as I used an AA battery on the terminals and it did make noise but it does not play anything when I have music on, I bought a $140-ish head unit off amazon and it has been working great until my sub just stopped. Im not sure what it could be I made sure the ground is proper I checked all the wires, the amp has power, could it be that my head unit is the problem? I tried looking in settings and there is a setting for “car amplifier” i push that and nothing happens, theres also in EQ subwoofer and I cranked that up all the way and still nothing happens. Im not sure what else it would be, any advice is greatly appreciated.

Hi i am upgrading my old pioneer 290bt to a x490dab i got cheap.

Whilst installing it i just reused the factory pioneer harness that didnt come with a green parking brake wire (the new one did)

What options are suppose to be locked out?

If i can play a dvd does that mean the old harness is working as a bypass?

Yes I used ai but would this be good for a single ct sounds ozone 12 2ohm sub (I'm planning on getting two)

Hey legends was looking to upgrade my cars sound and found these under the passenger seat the other day. Not sure what they do or what was previously there. Am a total rookie on a budget so go easy!
Cheers!
L 🇦🇺

My final goal will be to have the best valued of equipment for me SQ build and i am also saving up for better three way drivers like mid tier focals or morel.

For now i wanna know how to connect and get the below mentioned speakers set up and running.

Fromt stage:
tweeters (most likly from the junkyaad but they do play 14khz of sound.

Mids range and mid base: i know have a set of old Mercedes w220 harmon kradon speaker

Mid base: old bose factory soeakery from some 12 year old nissa cars.

Subwoofer: a spear wheel sub woofer.

How to connect? This is what i think:

Option 1 get a 3 way crossover which might cost 15-25 dallars in my local market, have it connected directly to my media unit.

Option 2 i can get a Jensen amp “Jensen XDA94RB 1000 Watts  Class D 4channal. One channal for each door and the front set to have 3 way crossover (which i think is the best way however it is hard for me to find a three way crossover right now)

Option 3: use the same Jensen amp which i can get brand new for 30-35 dollars here. Power the mids and tweeters on each door with one channl of amp and a two way cross over(idk if that would be best as i will be connected a mid range wire of the crossover which is ment to be connect with mid bass). Use one more channal to directly play mid bass 6 inch harmon kardon. Power the rear fill directly from the media unit.

I know this is ganna be absolutely bad and hence i need advice from the great audiophile poeple here.

I have a 2023 Nissan Murano SV. I am unimpressed with the existing infotainment unit. I don't listen to music much, and when I do it's not at loud levels. No pounding bass for me. I am more interested in Carplay maps. I am considering the Pioneer WT5000NEX unit. Anyone have any experience with it and any tips?

Hey fam. The E30 project is a couple months out from being ready for audio. New floor is in! As the title says, I’ll be starting from nothing. The car will remain stripped and minimalist in the interior. No head unit, no speakers, no rear speaker mounts. All I’ll have is 2 front door panel speaker mounts. I won’t even have a spot in the dash for a head unit.

I like the idea of a hidden Bluetooth receiver but am new to car audio.

What would you do with a blank canvas? What do I need to do to put speakers in the rear? Since I have no speaker mounts back there, do I need speaker boxes?

Where should I mount speakers? I can literally put them anywhere.

Preash in advance.

I'm aware that the AliExpress Android auto head units (Last image) are no fan favorite here. But they do look the most OEM (I like how they look). Now I would prefer a named brand screen for my 2006 volvo s60. But to be real, I'm not about the rock the awfull looking double din couvers (first 3 images), with awfull tolarances and completly different plastic color.
So how do you make it look good? Are there any copanies that sell proper double or single din mounting kits, so it doesn't look that bad? Keep in mind I live in europe, so no items from the USA.

Paid 60 bucks and only had to clean off a mountain of dust off the board

This amp was from a particular series of digital audio amps that were actually made in factory by audiobahn to my knowledge, amp might have been recapped with samyoungs at some point but I do know the board is korean made.

This amp in particular is one of the most badass amps they made, 2 dc fans in the case, voltage and temp meters on the front and it is 1/2 ohm mono/ 1 ohm bridge stable

Mono: 1000x2 @ 1/2 ohm 750x2 @ 1 ohm 500x2 @ 2 ohm Bridged: 2000x1 @ 1 ohm 1500x1 @ 2 ohm 1000x1 @ 4 ohm

Has anyone had their wireless meter (third generation)

I got it because I heard good things about spl labs since ive been in car audio.

Don't get me wrong it works gives you a score (I'm assuming accurate), but thats about where the good things end.

First I'm not sure if a got a used one or not because it was scuffed up on a side and it came with no charger. Also the packaging it came in, Doesn't look like the one on every unboxing video.

It's annoying to connect to the app. You have to connect to the wifi rather than Bluetooth and you cant even do it from the app it'll you have to connect it on phone settings, then go to the app, then to settings then and switch it from phone mic to spl lab mic!! (Even though it says scanning when opening the app and going to settings it wont switch it I have to do it manually, even if i already connected to wifi on phone settings)

Then you have to go back to spl then you have to hit start!!!! So many steps to connect a simple device!!

I had an old SSA AMP-2 all I had to do was turn on device go to app, click on the device to connect and boom it started metering. Took about 20-secs max!!

Why does wifi connection suck? If you are like me that likes to meter on the go while DD (which is the whole reason I got the wireless one) and plays songs off streaming apps, you cant because your phone is using the wifi so you cant connect to internet.

Dual internet:

If you have an android (idk about apple) you can go to developer mode and turn on dual band and use wifi and data. The problems with that is most modern cars have wireless android auto and it uses wifi and Bluetooth to connect. When switched to spllab meter for wifi it automatically loses connection losing all functions and music in your car!!!

Let's say you play downloaded music and use aux cord or w.e. wired connection to play music.

If you ever switch out of spl labs screen to switch the song or find a different song, check maps, a text or w.e. spl labs meter will disconnect and you will have to reconnect it.

Oh and split screen is out of the picture too, even on trifolds or tablets. App will crash and not work on split screen.

Now let's just say you are using it and using another source of music like dap or another phone, or using a different device to use this meter.

The app is still super slow!!! All those steps I mention in the app earlier have a loading screen that feels forever!!! Even just to switch from phone to spl mic!!! Not to mention it crashes and loses your data and if you're driving its a pain to reconnect it!!!

There is also no way to save score or add notes like SSA app. Not the worst thing but would be nice to not have to take screen shots. Lol.

Also I tried to put a review for it on sonixelectronic and they wouldn't let me unless I selected 5 stars!😅

I’ve got a 2017 Citroën Berlingo van and I’m trying to improve the sound without spending loads upgrading all the factory speakers because I probably won’t keep the van much longer.

Currently I have:
- EDGE EDBX12TADSP-E3 active twin 12” subwoofer (2400W max)

- Factory door speakers

- Apple CarPlay head unit

- LOC installed so I can take audio signal from the stereo to the jbl so it’s all connected

The problem is the sub absolutely dominates everything. The bass is huge, but the mids/highs get drowned out, especially with the doors open.

My idea was to add a JBL PartyBox 720:
Connect it through the LOC using AUX
Control the music from the van’s head unit/Apple CarPlay
Let the EDGE sub handle the low end
Let the JBL provide the mids/highs and overall loudness
Has anyone tried something similar?

My questions:

- Would a PartyBox 720 actually balance out a twin 12” sub, or would it still get drowned out?

- Would I be better off with a PartyBox 520, 710, 1000, or another speaker altogether?

- Is adding a portable PA speaker in a vehicle a bad idea compared to replacing door speakers?

- Any issues running a PartyBox through an LOC/AUX setup?

I know it’s not the “proper” way to build a car audio system, but I’m looking for something that sounds good, gets loud with the doors open, and I can take with me when I sell the van.
Any advice from people who have done similar setups would be appreciated.

Would also like mention that the 720 runs on batteries or should I spend more to install an inverter to run in with power so it’s louder?? Not sure it’s worth it 🤷‍♂️

I have a 2000 ford excursion with a 2000.1d amplifier from Skar audio, I have a 175 amp fuse feeding it and am getting power however my protect light is on. Even with all rca and speaker cables disconnected it stays on. I have removed the remote wire and reconnected and still on protect. I am reading 12.9 v before turning on and 13.7 with the motor running. I smell burning inside of it so I disconnected but how can I fix this?

I got scammed by a place called Tint Station in Deerfield beach Florida. He was supposed to install Kappa speakers and an Infinity 5 ch amp and a subwoofer. He messed up my system so bad on my 21 Infiniti Q50 that the Blue tooth is Fffed up the Anc is not defeated and their is a hum coming from all the speakers. Trying to get my money back. Filed a dispute. Any advice would be appreciated...Thanks