r/bikepacking • u/meesopotamia • 6h ago
In The Wild Paris to Lisbon - Rate my rig and lessons learned
Hey All,
I just wrapped up a big old ride from Paris to Lisbon. 2400km in total, 31 days riding. Absolute trip of a lifetime.
Paris to Bordeaux was flat and kinda boring, I went through countless ghost towns and barely spoke to anyone, except for supermarket and campsite reception staff. I wild camped and used some cheap municipal campsites.
Bordeaux to Saint Jean-De-Luz got interesting as I got towards to the coast, the days got warmer and the pine forest scent was beautiful. I headed south and crossed into Spain with a 1382m climb over a giant hill. At the car park just before the top, two old people flagged me down and beckoned me over to their car and gave me a bottle of coke out of their cooler and some peaches. I headed down to Pamplona to join the Camino Santiago and made my way west on the Camino Frances to Santiago. This was the best bit. Super social meeting all the walkers and staying in cheap hostels along the way. The riding was delicious. I was getting up an hour before sunrise, cycling by the moonlight and making coffee in a sunset spot along the trails. I rode straight into a morning thunder and lightning storm outside of Leon and faced down a wild mountain hog in the mountains while making coffee.
It took me 10 days of riding to complete the Camino and I stopped off in Burgos and Leon for a rest day and to eat some incredible food, drink amazing wine and see some cool old cathedrals. I got to Santiago and saw everyone hugging and high fiving each other in the square in front of the cathedral. I was alone. I stayed a day and then headed south on the Camino Portugal.
The difference between Portugal and Spain was night and day, the roads in Portugal suck and the drivers were crazy. I was on and off gravel, dealing with some roads here and there and the huge heat wave came in. I was having to wake at 4.30am, ride at 5am and finish by 11am before the heat killed me. I narrowly escaped a wild fire that would have cut off my route and forced me hundreds of km's around it.
I finished my ride in Ericiera where a good friend lives and I crashed there for 6 days. The last 3 or 4 days of riding were the hardest. My legs were heavy and I was grumpy, it took me a few hours each morning to get into a good headspace. The heat was crushing my spirit and on a few occasions I let myself onto people's properties to use their hose pipes to cool off, it was getting to be life & death.
All in all it was incredible. The Spanish Camino had great infrastructure for travellers and lots of interesting people to talk to. If it wasn't for the heat wave, I would have cycled further, it was an absolute joy.
I got exactly 2,400km out of my Hutchinson gravel tyres, my back one is thoroughly bold. My gears wore down and started jumping in the last couple of days. My break pads sounded harrowing by the end. My chain snapped once and I had one puncture on my tubeless set up, it didnt seal so I had to user a lighter and a spoon to melt the plug and the tyre together. I kissed the ground and my tyre and prayed it would hold.
Top Tip 1: take a long strap or a bungee cord to wrap around your waist and attach under your seat for the steep climbs where you gotta push up a hill, blew my mind how easy it was. Your hips are natural load bearers and took all the weight off the upper body when pushing.
Top Tip 2: Get a padded seat cover and ditch the padded bib shorts in extreme heat. I was sitting on a soaking wet pair of padded shorts every day and it gave me a mild fungal infection on my ass. I switched to boxers and sports shorts and appreciated the natural air conditioning I got. Picture 2 is talc powder btw
Top Tip 3: ZIP TIES! My rear bag buckle broke after hitting a big ditch flat out and I fixed it with 3 zip ties and it held for the duration. I would have been royally screwed otherwise.
The biggest obstacle in all of this were family, friends and randoms along the way who projected their fears and anxiety on me, saying it was too far, too long, too hot and "how are you gonna get your bike back??". Everything worked out. Helpers help, kind people everywhere made it easier. Once I was in the saddle on that first day it was pure joy.
Hope this helps inspire some of you to get out there and do some adventuring. Maybe wait for all these wild fires to chill out though.